A Collection of Journal Entries From The Torre Valley - by Raymond Holt.
Introduction
Patagonia is a world renowned climbing destination and chances are, if you are reading this article, you have heard about it before. It is often seen by trekkers as a must-see location on their bucket list of travel destinations. To climbers, it is a far offland shrouded in mystery, adventure, and objective hazard. Where even the best of the best can have an “epic”, climbing for upwards of 43 hour pushes, or partake in the most fulfilling alpine adventures that exist.
I first heard of the range when I was twelve years old from Yvon Chouinard’s classic film, Mountain of Storms. When I was sixteen I had the privilege of seeing Mt. Fitz Roy with my own eyes while living in Argentina. The hanging glaciers, incredible scenery, and 2000 meter granite faces brought me to tears. At that moment I decided what I wanted to do with my life: become a climber.
After eight years of training all across the Western United States in all the various disciplines of rock, ice, and mixed climbing; my best friend and climbing partner made our first trip to the Massif. There we successfully achieved a little boy's dream of standing on top of the most inspiring mountain I have ever seen. Via the route that inspired it all, Chouinard’s Californiana. It was quite the surreal feeling.
Now we are back for another season and more motivated than ever! Each day out in the mountains I keep a journal. The following article includes snippets of life at Niponino, our basecamp in the Torre Valley for the following month, as well as accounts of the climbing.
February 04, 2026 - The Approach
Good Weather, Stunning Views, Salame
Today marks the start of our Patagonian Adventure. The holy grail of alpine climbing in the Americas. Splitter cracks on golden granite that seems to never end; pointy agujas and sheer faces towering up to 6000’ in vertical relief; all protected by long approaches, rime covered summits, and wind only patagonia could produce. What more could you ask for? Many travel thousands of miles just to catch a glimpse of the massif, all to be denied by the region’s fickle weather. As I write this from the comfort of our first light, I peak outside and see the thousand meter walls on either side of the torre valley rising high, both intimidating and deeply inspiring.
The walk into Niponino is not for the faint of heart though it starts offquite pleasurable. A meander through mystic forests like that of a children’s book brings you to Laguna Torre. From there you cross the famous Tyrolean to cross the river and start your ascent around the south side of the lake. The trail declines significantly until it disappears entirely. After a number of hops, skips, and jumps over dry glaciers and moraine you have the pleasure of making it to Niponino.
I felt quite ill on the approach and the packs were heavy, but Cerro Torre was in full view calling us home like a lighthouse during a storm. Encouraging us to continue on. We plan to spend a month in the sacred town of El Chalten and the Torre Valley will act as our basecamp. We have a somewhat windy weather window but a weather window all the same. Our goals are Rubio y Azul on the Medialuna (350m 6c) and Chiaro di Luna on Saint-Exupery (750m 6b+). Two five star climbs and area classics. Life is good.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
February 05, 2026 - Rubio y Azul 350m 6c
Splitters, Perseverance, A Strong Partner
I started feeling sick right before the 27 hour bus ride to El Chalten. I thought I could sleep the whole bus ride and feel better by the time we rolled into town. When that didn’t happen, I imagined the walk into Niponino would remedy my ailments. It is starting to seem like rest may be the only ticket. All that aside today we dusted offthe climbing cobwebs on Rubio y Azul after our respective winters in Colorado and Vermont. The approach was somewhat cumbersome and wandery in the dark. While descending the same scree field I came to the realization that maybe there is no easy way from Niponino to Noruegos where we gain the glacier.
We blasted offfrom the base of the route at 6:49am, racked and ready to go. We were full of both excitement and uncertainty. Climbing here carries the extra weight of no helicopter rescue always looming in the back of your mind. You truly are “on your own”. Jayden took the first four pitch block and I the second. Each block containing its own “money pitch”. The third pitch of my block before heading into Medialuna’s infamous chimney was the most enjoyable crack I have ever climbed in my life. Half way through the pitch of perfect hands the sun popped out for a few minutes and I had to appreciate where we were. Deep blue glaciers 1000’ below us on either side, Cerro Torre above us, and Mt. Fitz Roy at our backs. That brief moment was the last we would see of the sun all day. As we worked our way up the snow began to flurry and the winds picked up to 35-40mph.
Neither frozen hands nor sore feet could take away from the joy of standing on top. During the rappels we were briefly reminded of an experience we had descending Mt. Fitz Roy last season. High winds, equal stuck ropes. Luckily this time we eventually got our lifeline back and continued down cautiously. Back safely at Niponino we enjoy warm sleeping bags and full stomachs. The forecast is looking windier than before and I am feeling sicker than I would have hoped. Either way tomorrow is a rest day in one of the most inspiring campsites there is.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
February 06, 2026 - Rest Day at Niponino
Chocolate, Siestas, Stretching
Rest day. Last night snow and wind made us retreat to the tent fairly early. I slept for twelve hours. This morning the high pressure returned; sunny and windy. Large plumes of snow have been wisping offAdela Peak’s cornice covered summit all day. Not too much to tell today. Stretched our sore bodies, sorted gear, and watched our food supplies slowly dwindle away. Tomorrow we have decided to pivot to a different objective. Partly due to the forecasted winds, mostly on account of me still feeling under the weather. Our objective is still a worthy endeavor. The Frader-Pisafe (400m 6c+) on el Mocho is a striking line on an inspiring wall. Happy to be alive and have the freedom to do what I love.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
February 07, 2026 - Frader-Pisafe 400m 6c+
Weather, Partner you know and trust, Healthy Body - Jayden
El Mocho! Wow what a line. 1500’ of perfect granite sporting a 150m dihedral. Possibly the longest continuous corner system I have ever had the privilege to climb. This morning we got out of camp at 4:30am and made it to the base of the route by 6:00am. The approach was short by Patagonian standards but arduous. I got my foot wet while crossing the creek, and then went for a bit of a ride traversing the scree slope getting to Noruegos. Almost being crushed by a loose boulder about the size of a lawn mower. We set offat 6:30 just after finishing our last sips of coffee while racking up.
The first two pitches before gaining the dihedral were fun and bouldery but sparsely protected. The corner system had a wide variety of climbing styles: hands, finger cracks, stem problems where the seam petered out, and even some burly offwidth. The crux was a cool layback/undercling roof crack with an old rusty bolt right where you wanted it. Sometimes you clip these archaic bolts merely because they are there and make you feel warm and fuzzy rather than their actual utility in catching a leader's fall. It's what we call “psychological protection” in the climbing world. The summit was guarded by wet cracks and a long squeeze chimney which required careful footwork, tough elbow skin, and just enough grit to get by. In order to make it all the way to El Mocho’s summit you had to want it.
At the top a tear came to my eye. We could see from the Pollone group all the way to the turquoise blue water of Lago Viedma and beyond into the Patagonian desert. I looked at my best friend smiling ear to ear and couldn’t imagine a more perfect outing. Right offthe bat our rope stuck in the chimney on the way down. Without skipping a beat I led back up, freed the rope, and down climbed back to the anchor. Here in Patagonia the descents are very involved, there are little to no bolts on route. Only pitons; nuts; and old pieces of tat worn by the sun, wind, and rain are your way down. We went along lento y confiable, improving stations as we saw fit. Then skirted down slabs and scree happily back to camp. My nose sprung a leak covering my white sunhoody in blood which was the perfect excuse to wash offin the waterfalls coming offthe slabs by Noruegos.
All in all we were camp to camp sub eleven hours. Tomorrow we walk out back to Chalten to wait out the impending storm and rest our tired bodies. A successful primer pegue.
Peace, Love, Gratitude.
-RH
Hasta el Siguiente Pegue
Now we sit in Chalten, getting fat office cream and Asado awaiting the next good weather window. A few days of rest will do us good but we are excited to go back to the Massif. Stay Tuned!
Raymond Holt
IG: raymond__holt
A special thank you to the Wilhelms for supporting this trip. LiveLikeLuke.
