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At 20,310 feet, Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America and one of the most demanding high-altitude expeditions accessible to guided parties anywhere in the world. The Alaska Range's extreme cold, sustained altitude, and remote logistics place it in a different category from any other guided objective on the continent.
A Mt. McKinley expedition is measured in weeks, not days, and demands a level of preparation and commitment that no other program in this lineup requires.
RMI's Alaska programs are built around Mt. McKinley's West Buttress, the standard route on North America's highest peak, guided by professionals with deep experience managing expedition logistics, extreme cold, and high-altitude decision-making. Programs are structured with flexible end dates to account for the realities of weather and conditions at this scale. Most climbers choose a single Expedition Skills Seminar or the full West Buttress expedition below rather than a custom itinerary — browse by duration and objective to find the right program.
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Mountaineering
A guided ski-mountaineering expedition on Mt. McKinley's West Buttress: the team ascends and descends on skis, using them for glacier travel from the Kahiltna landing strip and for the descent from high on the route.
Skill Development
An instructional expedition climbing seminar based out of the Great Gorge on the Ruth Glacier, combining skills development with a summit attempt on 9,545-foot Mt. Dickey via the West Face.
Skill Development
An instructional alpine climbing program based out of Little Switzerland in Denali National Park and Preserve, combining skills development with summit attempts on the granite spires above Pika Glacier.
Mountaineering
A guided expedition to the summit of Mt. McKinley via the West Buttress, the standard route on North America's highest peak.
The range has more to offer than any single program list can cover. If you have a specific peak in mind, a group with particular goals, or an objective that doesn't fit a standard format, RMI can build a program around it.
Mt. McKinley (Denali) is the highest peak in North America at 20,310 feet and one of the most demanding high-altitude expeditions available to guided parties anywhere in the world. Extreme cold, sustained altitude, and remote glacier logistics place it in a different category from any other RMI program — expeditions are measured in weeks, not days.
RMI's Mt. McKinley programs run with flexible end dates to account for weather and conditions at this scale, typically spanning two to three weeks on the mountain.
Yes. McKinley is not a first mountaineering objective. RMI's Alaska programs are built for climbers who already have glacier travel and cold-weather camping experience — RMI's Expedition Skills Seminars on the Ruth and Kahiltna Glaciers are designed to build exactly those skills in Alaska Range terrain before a summit attempt.
RMI guides the West Buttress, the standard route on North America's highest peak, chosen for its established logistics and RMI's decades of experience managing extreme cold and high-altitude decision-making on it.
Access to Mt. McKinley requires a ski-plane flight onto the Kahiltna Glacier, and the expedition is entirely self-supported at altitude for its duration — there's no equivalent to a day hut or quick descent. Weight, cold-weather systems, and expedition-length food planning matter far more here than on shorter climbs.
RMI's McKinley season runs during the Alaska Range's short climbing window, typically May through early July, when daylight is longest and the route is most established.
Every program includes professional mountain guides, technical group equipment, permits, and the expedition logistics required for Alaska Range travel. Personal cold-weather clothing and equipment are typically climber-provided, with an equipment list on each program page.
Planning guides from RMI's guide team on McKinley expeditions, routes, and getting ready for the Alaska Range.
Learn when to climb McKinley based on seasonal weather trends, avalanche risk, daylight hours, and climbing conditions. Gear up with expert advice.
Find out what expedition experience is required to safely and successfully attempt a climb of McKinley with RMI. Prepare for your summit success.
Get expedition-ready with this expert gear guide for climbing McKinley via the West Buttress. From layering systems to sled setups, here’s how to pack smart for North America’s tallest peak.
Compare the main climbing routes on McKinley, including the West Buttress and more, to plan your expedition path. Adventure awaits, learn more.
