Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

11 Days

|

Skill Development

|

$7,200

|

$1,250

Deposit

|

Intermediate

Overview

Progressive

A nine-day expedition skills seminar designed to build the technical foundation and expedition competency needed for major glaciated peaks, culminating in a summit attempt on Mt. Dickey.

Immersive

Hands-on instruction in glacier travel, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and expedition systems delivered in the Great Gorge on the Ruth Glacier, one of the most dramatic mountain environments in North America.

Remote

A fly-in expedition seminar set in the heart of the Alaska Range, where the remoteness of the Ruth Glacier shapes every aspect of how the program operates and what it demands.

As always with RMI, it was just a great group of both clients and guides. Location was amazing, logistics were all handled superbly, and all the key desired outcomes were met!

Christopher B.

The Ruth Glacier's Great Gorge sits in the heart of the Alaska Range, surrounded by walls and peaks that provide exceptional terrain for expedition-level instruction. RMI's Expedition Skills Seminar is built around this setting, using nine days on the glacier to teach the systems that define performance on bigger objectives. The program is designed specifically to prepare climbers for guided ascents of Mt. McKinley and Aconcagua, and to build the self-sufficiency needed to pursue glaciated peaks independently.

The curriculum covers glacier travel and navigation, ice climbing, crevasse rescue, camp construction, sled hauling, and fixed-line travel. Skills are introduced in structured sessions and applied directly on the terrain surrounding base camp, with the summit of 9,545-foot Mt. Dickey via the West Face as the primary climbing objective. Mt. Dickey is a serious and rewarding Alaska Range peak, and the program is structured so that the skills developed in the early days translate directly into what the climb demands.

The 3:1 climber-to-guide ratio keeps instruction focused and personal throughout. Guides move between teaching fundamental systems and leading the team toward the Mt. Dickey objective, with evening discussions covering expedition medicine, weather interpretation, route planning, and decision-making. Climbers leave with a working knowledge of expedition mountaineering systems and the on-mountain experience to apply them.

WHY RMI

Setting the Standard Since 1969

The Ruth Glacier's Great Gorge is not a forgiving environment for underprepared climbers or underprepared guide services. The remoteness of the setting, the scale of the terrain, and the commitment required to attempt Mt. Dickey demand a guiding operation that knows this area well and structures instruction around what the mountain actually requires. RMI has been running expedition programs in Alaska since 1975, and the Ruth Glacier seminar reflects that accumulated experience directly, from how base camp is established to how the instructional progression builds toward the Dickey objective.

This program is explicitly designed as preparation for Mt. McKinley and Aconcagua, and that intent shapes how guides teach. The skills covered, sled hauling, fixed-line travel, camp construction, crevasse rescue, and expedition decision-making, are not generic mountaineering fundamentals. They are the specific systems that determine performance on larger glaciated peaks, taught in an environment that closely mirrors what those objectives demand. The 3:1 climber-to-guide ratio ensures that instruction stays personal and that guides can track individual progression throughout the nine days.

Risk management in the Great Gorge operates on the same standards RMI applies to its full Alaska expeditions. Guides hold wilderness medicine certifications and technical rescue training, carry comprehensive medical and communication equipment, and conduct ongoing condition assessments throughout the program. The fly-in nature of the program means the team is fully committed once on the glacier, and guide judgment on weather, route conditions, and team readiness drives every decision from arrival to fly-out.

To learn more about RMI's history and guiding philosophy, visit our About page.

Expedition Highlights

Snow-covered mountain peaks under a partly cloudy blue sky.
Logo with 2025 inside a circle of grey and blue dots and text offsetters carbon neutral climbs and expeditions.

Carbon Neutral Climbs

All our climbs in Mt. Rainier & Denali National Parks are 100% carbon neutral. We have acquired offsets for greenhouse gas emissions through our partnership with Ostrom Climate, Canada's top carbon management solutions provider. Their carbon offset projects undergo rigorous verification by third parties to validate that emission reductions are genuine and permanent, ensuring that our contribution is making a tangible impact.

Itinerary

Overview

The program flies into the Ruth Glacier on Day 2 and spends nine days in the Great Gorge, moving through foundational skills training, a push to high camp at 747 Pass, a summit attempt on Mt. Dickey, and dedicated technical sessions on crevasse rescue and expedition systems. The final morning on the glacier includes packing camp before flying back to Talkeetna.

Point of Origin

Anchorage, AK

Highest Point

9,545' / 2,909 m

Total Program Duration

11 Days

Climbing Days

4

Skills & Training Days

4

Longest Day

10 - 12+ Hours

Skills & Takeaways

What You'll Walk Away With

This seminar builds expedition climbing competency through progressive instruction in a remote Alaska Range environment. Skills are introduced at base camp and applied directly on the terrain surrounding the Ruth Glacier, culminating in a summit attempt on Mt. Dickey and dedicated training in the systems that define performance on larger glaciated peaks.

By the end of the seminar, climbers will have practical experience with:

  • Ice axe technique for balance, self-arrest, and team arrest on glaciated terrain
  • Crampon movement on moderate alpine terrain
  • Roped glacier travel and navigation on a live glacier environment
  • Snow and ice anchor construction for belaying, rappelling, and rescue scenarios
  • Crevasse self-rescue and companion rescue with full expedition loads
  • Fixed-line travel with mechanical ascenders
  • Sled rigging and hauling on glacier approaches
  • Expedition camp construction, site selection, and mountain kitchen systems

Day 1

TRAVEL  •  348' | 106M

1:30 p.m.: Meet the guides at Anchorage International Airport (Domestic Terminal), carousel 1 in Alaska Airlines baggage claim.

Shuttle transportation to Talkeetna is included in the program. The shuttle leaves at 2:00 p.m. and takes three hours to arrive in Talkeetna. The group will stop at a grocery store in Wasilla, for the opportunity to purchase any fresh food you'd like to bring on the mountain. The team will arrive in Talkeetna at approximately 5:00 p.m. Overnight in Talkeetna.

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Day 2

PRE-TRIP PREPARATION AND TRAINING  • 4,500' | 1,371M

7:00 a.m.: Team Breakfast Meeting

There are a number of important items to accomplish in Talkeetna. After our breakfast meeting we begin our training at the K2 Aviation hangar. The team will go through extensive personal equipment checks. Final recommendations and suggestions concerning gear will be made at that time. The team will plan meals and ready group food and equipment for the glacier flight. There will be an introduction to risk management practices, including use of helmets, harnesses, and avalanche transceivers. Instruction regarding Leave No Trace practices and environmental considerations will be made as well. After all is made ready, we begin shuttling members into the Ruth Glacier, weather permitting. This spectacular scenic flight requires approximately 45 minutes, one way. Once at the airstrip, we continue our expedition skills training by learning camp site selection, and how to build a mountain camp and kitchen.

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Day 3-10

The following seminar itinerary is approximate and depends on such considerations as weather, route conditions and strength of the party. Nine man-days of food and fuel are carried on the mountain. There are emergency food rations at Base Camp, in case weather prevents the group from flying off.

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Day 3

MOVE TO BASE CAMP • 4,500' | 1,371M

We pack our camp, load our sleds, and move from the airstrip down the Ruth Glacier to establish our base camp at the base of Mt. Dickey. We'll use the afternoon for further technical skills training.

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Day 4

TRAINING AND SKILLS DAY • 4,500' | 1,371M

At Base Camp we begin building the foundational skills that allow travel and access to more varied terrain. Skills covered on this day include: knots, harness, carabiner and avalanche transceiver use, proper use of the ice axe for balance and self and team arrest, cramponing on moderate terrain, and the basics of roped glacier travel. Evening discussions will take place throughout the seminar and cover a variety of mountaineering topics such as: mountain medicine and wellness, weather, route finding and navigation, expeditionary climbing techniques, alpine climbing techniques, self-care and the art of climbing efficiently.

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Day 5

MOVE TO HIGH CAMP AT 747 PASS • 6,370' | 1,942M

We will pack up the gear that we need for a few days of climbing, and move to our high camp at 747 Pass, in preparation to climb Mt. Dickey. We will cache unnecessary equipment at Base Camp. The route to 747 Pass follows the ascending glacial valley to the south of Mt. Dickey, reaching 747 Pass. We will make camp and prepare for the summit climb of the West Face tomorrow.

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Day 6

MT. DICKEY SUMMIT (9,545') • 6,370' | 1,942M

Summit day on Mt. Dickey! We depart 747 Pass, wrapping around to gain the West Ridge and ascend the broad West Face to the summit. Incredible views of the Alaska Range treat us all the way to the summit, with the summit opening up expansive views of the Ruth Glacier and Great Gorge 5,000' below. We descend back to our camp at 747 Pass to spend the night.

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Day 7

RETURN TO BASE CAMP • 4,500' | 1,371M

We pack up our camp, descending from 747 Pass back to our Base Camp in the Great Gorge. The descent takes a few hours, and once at camp, we will spend some time setting camp up again and settling in before doing some light training for the afternoon.

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Day 8

CREVASSE RESCUE TRAINING • 4,500' | 1,371M

During our crevasse rescue practice we learn self-rescue, how to extricate ourselves from a crevasse if we have fallen in, and companion rescue, how we extricate a team member. These are essential skills for an ascent of a large expeditionary peak like Mt. McKinley.

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Day 9

TECHNICAL SKILLS TRAINING • 4,500' | 1,371M

We spend the morning learning how to construct a variety of snow and ice anchors for use in belaying, rappelling, and crevasse rescue. In the afternoon our focus will be on expedition skills such as fixed rope travel, sled rigging, and a discussion of crevasse rescue. We will consider a variety of crevasse rescue scenarios. In the afternoon, we pack all of our gear and leave our base camp home from the last few days to return to the airstrip and await the planes that will return us to Talkeetna in the morning.

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Day 10

FLY OFF • 348' | 106M

Weather permitting, we await the buzz of the engines of the trusty bush planes arriving to take us back to town. Once back in Talkeetna, we will dry and organize our gear and then enjoy a celebratory dinner.

You are responsible for your own lodging upon returning to Talkeetna.

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Day 11

TRAVEL

Shuttle transportation to Anchorage is provided. Your RMI Guides will arrange this transfer once you return to Talkeetna.

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Qualifications

Fitness

You should arrive in solid physical condition and prepared to carry 40 to 50 pounds, haul a sled on glacier terrain, and sustain physical effort across multiple consecutive days including a full summit day on Mt. Dickey.

Experience

There are no formal technical prerequisites for this program, though prior experience with rope, crampons, and ice axe is recommended, as is experience with backpacking, winter camping, or other mountain pursuits.

Altitude

The program reaches 9,545 feet on the summit of Mt. Dickey, with base camp and high camp at moderate Alaska Range elevations; no formal acclimatization is required.

The Expedition Skills Seminar is designed to be accessible to climbers who are earlier in their mountaineering development, and no prior technical climbing certifications are required to participate. That said, this is a remote fly-in program in a serious mountain environment, and climbers should arrive with a genuine base of physical fitness and some familiarity with basic outdoor skills. The program builds on what you bring, and arriving better prepared means getting more out of nine days on the glacier.

Prior experience with rope handling, crampons, and ice axe use will help you engage with instruction from the first day rather than starting from zero. Experience with multi-day backpacking or winter camping is valuable preparation for the expedition living demands of the program, including camp construction, sled hauling, and managing gear and personal systems in cold conditions. None of these are hard requirements, but climbers who arrive with some of this background will find the learning curve more manageable.

Physically, training should focus on sustained aerobic output with a loaded pack, core strength for technical movement, and the ability to move efficiently on uneven terrain for extended periods. The approach to high camp, the summit day on Mt. Dickey, and the sled hauls between camps are the most demanding physical efforts of the program. Arriving fit gives you the energy to focus on learning.

Recommended Climbing Resumé

Your climbing resumé should include:

Prior experience with ice axe and crampon use

Familiarity with basic rope handling and knots

Multi-day backpacking or winter camping experience

Experience moving on glaciated or snow-covered terrain

Items marked with an Asterix (*) are considered mandatory prerequisites for this program.

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering places sustained demands on your body and your ability to stay composed under effort. Even very fit people find that moving uphill with weight, for long hours, in variable weather is a different kind of challenge than most everyday training.

Preparation matters. Fitness directly affects how well you move, how much you learn, how the team functions, and how enjoyable the experience is overall.

Start early. Begin training well in advance of your program with the goal of arriving rested, resilient, and confident in your capacity for sustained effort.

Train intentionally. Emphasize aerobic endurance, uphill movement, and strength that supports long days on your feet. Core stability, balance, and mobility all play an important role in efficiency and injury prevention.

Train specifically. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the demands of mountaineering: hiking uphill with weight, moving steadily for hours, and recovering well enough to do it again the next day.

Across RMI programs, strong preparation typically means being comfortable with long days of continuous movement, carrying a pack appropriate to the objective, and maintaining focus and decision-making when tired. Technical skills are taught or reviewed as appropriate to each program, but fitness is something you bring with you.

Nothing contributes more to a successful and rewarding experience than arriving well prepared. Plan to be in excellent physical condition and ready for a demanding day in the mountains.

Total Hiking Time

Elevation Gain / Loss

Total Distance

Pack Weight

DAY 1 — Travel to Talkeetna

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

DAY 2 — Pre-Trip Preparation, Gear Check, and Fly to Ruth Glacier (4,500')

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

DAY 3 — Move to Base Camp at Base of Mt. Dickey (4,500')

n/a

40 - 50 lbs + sled

DAY 4 — Training and Skills Day at Base Camp

n/a

n/a

n/a

40 - 50 lbs

DAY 5 — Move to High Camp at 747 Pass (6,370')

3 - 5 hours

Gain = 1,870'

3 miles

40 - 50 lbs + sled

DAY 6 — Mt. Dickey Summit Day (9,545') and Return to 747 Pass

8 - 12 hours

Gain = 3,175' | Loss = 3,175'

20 - 30 lbs

DAY 7 — Return to Base Camp (4,500')

2 - 4 hours

Loss = 1,870'

3 miles

40 - 50 lbs + sled

DAY 8 — Crevasse Rescue Training at Base Camp

n/a

n/a

n/a

40 - 50 lbs

DAY 9 — Technical Skills Training and Pack Camp

n/a

n/a

n/a

40 - 50 lbs

DAY 10 — Fly to Talkeetna (weather permitting)

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

DAY 11 — Travel to Anchorage

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

Fitness And Training Resources

Our guides have decades of experience training for alpine objectives, and we've done our best to put together relevant resources to help you with your expedition preparation.

Your Role as a Climber

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Before any program begins, RMI works directly with prospective climbers to confirm that everyone joining a team is genuinely prepared for the demands ahead. Depending on the program, this may involve conversations with our office staff, a review of your climbing history, or feedback from guides and other climbers who know your abilities. The goal is straightforward: to ensure that every person on the rope belongs there. We ask that each climber hold themselves to the same standard:

  • Meet Program Prerequisites: Arrive with the climbing experience, qualifications, and gear outlined for your program.
  • Arrive Prepared: Come in top physical and mental condition. Strong preparation directly affects your performance, your teammates' experience, and the team's overall safety.
  • Be Informed: Review all pre-departure materials and communicate any questions to the RMI office before your start date.
  • Medical Clearance: Provide any required medical documentation and inform the RMI office of any changes to your health before departure.
  • Team Consideration: Act considerately toward all team members and respect the customs and values of the areas you travel through.
  • Environmental Respect: Follow Leave No Trace practices throughout the program.
  • Communicate Honestly: Accurately represent your fitness, health, skills, and equipment to your guide staff, and keep them informed of any changes during the program.
  • Stay Accountable: Attend all briefings and gear checks, follow guide instructions, and take personal responsibility for your equipment, hygiene, and readiness for changing conditions.
  • Self-Assess Continuously: Evaluate your fitness and readiness honestly against the demands of the program. Your willingness to do so contributes directly to the safety of the entire team.

The standards we set exist to protect everyone on the team. RMI holds all climbers accountable to them, and we take seriously our responsibility to build teams of people who are ready to be in the mountains together. RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including evacuation, transportation, lodging, and meals.

Equipment

What You'll Need

The Expedition Skills Seminar takes place on the Ruth Glacier in a remote area of Denali National Park and Preserve, accessible only by ski plane and fully committed once the team is on the glacier. This gear list reflects decades of guiding experience on this route and represents what RMI expects every climber to bring to the mountain. It is designed to support nine days of expedition living and technical climbing in the Alaska Range, including glacier travel, ice and snow work, sled hauling, and a summit attempt on Mt. Dickey.

Not every item will be used on every program. Conditions and objectives influence what the team deploys at any given point, and every experienced climber refines their kit over time. That said, all required equipment must be present and functional before the team flies in from Talkeetna. There is no resupply once on the glacier. Guides conduct a thorough gear check at the K2 Aviation hangar in Talkeetna before the glacier flight. If you have questions about specific items or want guidance before your program date, contact the RMI office directly.

Guide pick™

Each RMI program includes a required personal equipment list built around the specific terrain, conditions, and objectives of the climb. Every item serves a purpose and supports safety, efficiency, and comfort in the mountains.

Guide Picks™ are examples that meet our performance standards and illustrate the type of gear we recommend. Each year, our partners at Whittaker Mountaineering survey our staff of 70+ guides to get a consensus on the best gear for the job. You do not need to purchase the exact item shown, but any alternative must offer comparable function and durability.

All listed items are required for the gear check. Final adjustments may be recommended by your guide based on conditions and team needs once the expedition begins.

Gear Up

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.

Equipment List

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Pack & Travel

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Technical Gear

Head

Hands

Upper Body

Lower Body

Feet

First Aid & Medications

Personal Items

Travel Clothes

Travel Documents

Pre-Trip Checklist

Provided Equipment

Pack & Travel

100+ Duffel Bag(s)

A durable duffel bag (100-120L) made of tough material with rugged zippers for gear transport and storage. Can be used as checked luggage and for organizing gear at base locations.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

Sled Duffel Bag

A lightweight 100+ liter duffel to transport gear in your sled. This bag does not need to be waterproof. This can also be used as your second checked bag on your flight to Alaska.

Guide Pick™
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Pack & Travel

85+ Liter Backpack

A technical climbing pack large enough to carry personal gear, layers, food, water, and a share of group equipment including tent portions. You will not need a separate summit pack.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

0° - 20°F Sleeping Bag

We recommend a bag rated between 20° and 0° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a 0° F bag.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Compression Stuff Sack For Sleeping Bag

A compression stuff sack to reduce sleeping bag volume and protect it from moisture during transport and on the mountain.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

A full-length inflatable sleeping pad for warmth and comfort in alpine conditions.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Closed Foam Sleeping Pad

A full-length closed-cell foam pad for insulation and puncture insurance, used alone or in combination with an inflatable pad.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Ice Axe

A straight-shaft ice axe with a classic pick and adze designed for glacier travel, self-arrest, and general snow climbing. Should be appropriately sized for your height.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Climbing Harness

A comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop-seat, or adjustable leg loops are recommended for managing layers and bathroom breaks in the mountains.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Triple-action Locking Carabiner

Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Locking Carabiner(s)

Used for clipping into anchors, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Non-locking Carabiner(s)

Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

General Mountaineering Crampons

10- or 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates for general mountaineering and glacier travel. Automatic, semi-automatic, or strap-on attachment depending on boot compatibility. Ensure crampons are compatible with your specific boots before your program.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Avalanche Transceiver With Fresh Batteries

A three-antenna avalanche transceiver with fresh batteries for travel in avalanche terrain. Bring extra batteries appropriate to the program duration.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Trekking Poles

We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Traction Pulley Device

A Progress Capture device designed for Crevasse Rescue, Hauling and Self- Rescue. While not mandatory this device increases efficiency while hauling and while setting up our rope systems.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Double-Length Sewn Nylon Sling

120 cm sewn sling (double-length runner) for anchor building and general climbing use.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Sewn Prusik Loop / Hollow Block

Premade sewn loops or hollow blocks used for friction hitches in climbing and rescue situations.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Single-Length Sewn Nylon Sling

60 cm sewn sling (single-length runner) for anchor building and general climbing use.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

6mm Accessory Cord

Lightweight accessory cord for prusiks, cordelettes, and general mountaineering applications. Purchase at least 15 feet and pre-cut to lengths specified in your program's detailed gear list PDF.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Bungee Cords

Approximately 12-20 inches each for securing gear and equipment.

Guide Pick™
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Technical Gear

Nylon Cord

Paracord or thin (3-4mm) accessory cord for lashing gear and general utility use.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Snowshoes

Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe- 22" is an ideal size. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly easier.

Guide Pick™
Head

Helmet

A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Beanie

Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Ball Cap Or Sun Hat

A hat without a button on top will fit better and be more comfortable under a helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Buff or Neck Gaiter

A versatile neck gaiter or buff for head and neck protection in variable conditions.

Guide Pick™
Head

Glacier Glasses

Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

Guide Pick™
Head

Goggles

Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Lightweight Gloves

Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Medium Weight Gloves

Insulated gloves for active climbing and moderate cold conditions. Should allow adequate dexterity for handling gear while providing warmth.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Heavy Weight Gloves Or Mittens

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency backups if you drop or lose a lighter-weight glove.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Upper Body Layering

We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.

Guide Pick™
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Upper Body

Lightweight Baselayer or Sun Hoody

A lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirt in synthetic or merino wool for sun protection and moisture management during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Lightweight Insulating Layer

One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Medium Weight Insulating Layer

An insulated jacket or softshell for warmth during low-output activity and extended rest breaks. Should fit over baselayers and midlayers, and under a shell.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Heavy Weight Insulating Layer

A hooded down or synthetic insulated jacket that fits over all other upper body layers. Primarily worn in camp and during rest breaks on summit day.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Hardshell Jacket

A waterproof jacket with a hood for protection against wind, rain, and snow. Should fit comfortably over all insulating layers.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Down Parka With Attached Hood

An expedition-style down parka that extends below the waist with an insulated hood, designed to fit over all other layers. Worn primarily in camp, during rest breaks, and on summit day. Down fill recommended over synthetic.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Sports Bra

We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lower Body Layering

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

Guide Pick™
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Lower Body

Pairs Of Underwear

Non-cotton briefs or boxers.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lightweight Baselayer Bottoms

Lightweight synthetic or merino wool baselayer bottoms for moisture management and temperature regulation during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Climbing Pants

Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Hardshell Pants

Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Synthetic Insulated Pants

A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth on summit day and cold days at camps. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Double Mountaineering Boots

Insulated double boots with removable inner boots for cold, high-altitude mountaineering. Modern synthetic models are lighter and more comfortable than traditional plastic-shelled boots.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Overboots

Insulated overboots designed to fit over double mountaineering boots for additional warmth in extreme cold and high-altitude conditions.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Booties

Goose down or synthetic fill. Nice for evenings at camp.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Casual Shoes

Great for traveling and wearing around town or camp. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

Guide Pick™
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Feet

Pairs Of Socks

Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

Guide Pick™
First Aid & Medications

Medications

We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications you should have for high-altitude climbing. These medications are only used in emergency situations, and if someone is showing symptoms of HAPE or HACE, our standard protocol is for immediate descent. We do not take any of these medications prophylactically, and please talk with your guide before taking medications.

We require each climber to have the following medications:

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Acetazolamide (diamox)

125mg tablets for the prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. A normal prescription is 125mg tablets, twice a day. Recommend 15 - 20 tablets.

Guide Pick™
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First Aid & Medications

Small Personal First Aid Kit

Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, basic pain reliever, and personal medications.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Meals & Snacks

You are responsible for providing your own meals and snack food in town and while on your program. See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Bowl

Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Insulated Mug or Bottle

Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommend a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L Nalgene.

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Personal Items

Utensils

A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

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Personal Items

Water Bottles

One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

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Personal Items

Insulated Water Bottle Covers

These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.

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Personal Items

Stuff Sack(s)

Bring as needed.

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Personal Items

Large Garbage Bags

Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.

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Personal Items

Reading Material/journal

Books, magazines, or a journal for downtime at camp; a Kindle or similar e-reader is a practical alternative for longer expeditions where weight and bulk matter. Choose based on program length and personal preference.

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Personal Items

Personal Toiletries & Bag

Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

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Personal Items

Travel Size Hand Sanitizer

A compact hand sanitizer for use when soap and water aren't available during approach and camp periods. Bring a bottle small enough to fit in a pack pocket.

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Personal Items

Sunscreen

We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

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Personal Items

Lip Balm

We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

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Personal Items

Travel Size Moisturizer

A small container of moisturizer to prevent skin dryness at altitude and in cold, low-humidity environments. Bring a travel-size bottle that fits easily in your pack.

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Personal Items

Insect Repellent

Insect repellent for protection against mosquitoes and biting insects at lower elevations and in camp.

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Personal Items

Ear Plugs

Disposable or reusable ear plugs for sleeping in shared tent or hut accommodations.

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Personal Items

Spare Contact Lenses/ Eyeglasses

Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

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Personal Items

Sleeping Mask

A lightweight sleeping mask for blocking light in shared tent or hut accommodations and during extended daylight hours at high latitudes.

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Personal Items

Pee Funnel (for Women)

Practice using this before coming on the climb!

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Personal Items

Pee Bottle

One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

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Personal Items

Camera

Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

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Personal Items

Power Bank

A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

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Travel Clothes

Travel Clothes

We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, sightseeing and dining.  

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Head

Sunglasses

If Glacier Glasses are not required, regular sunglasses will suffice on this program.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Insurance

Purchase travel insurance.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Flights

Purchase airplane tickets.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Equipment

Reserve rental equipment.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Fitness

Be in the best shape of your life!

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Provided Equipment

Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, sleds, and avalanche probes.

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.

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Personal Items

Pocket Knife

A small folding knife or multi-tool for general utility and gear repairs in the field.

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Personal Items

GPS Watch

A GPS-enabled watch with altimeter, barometer, and compass for navigation and weather monitoring. Many modern smart watches and dedicated outdoor watches offer this functionality.

Guide Pick™

fuel for the mountain

On the Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier, you will need 9 mountain lunches. All of your mountain lunch items should weigh 7+ lb.

Breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain are included in your program cost. You are responsible for all meals while we are off the mountain.

ABOUT YOUR MOUNTAIN MEALS

Mountain Lunches

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain lunch items: bagels, tortillas, crackers (Wheat Thins, Triscuits), hummus, Pringles, corn nuts, smoked almonds, roasted cashews, GORP mix (peanuts, M&M's, sunflowers seeds, raisins, etc.), smoked salmon, fresh veggies (carrots), salami, pepperoni, cheese (pepper jack, Swiss, cheddar), jerky, candy (sweet and sour varieties), chocolate bars, hard candies, energy bars (Cliff, Luna), dried fruits (apricots, pineapple, pear), and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).

Perishable food items may be purchased at a grocery store en-route to Talkeetna; you should have the bulk of lunch items already purchased and packed.

Breakfast

Breakfasts consist of fresh food (bagels, cream cheese), bacon and eggs, instant oatmeal, instant grits, cold cereal (granola), breakfast bars, and hot drinks.

Dinner

Nine days of group food are carried on the mountain, which can be stretched in the event of bad weather. Additionally, a cache of emergency food is left at Ruth Base Camp.

The dinner menu is a combination of fresh food (vegetables, tortillas, cheese), retort entrees (fully cooked meals packaged in sealed containers and heated in hot water), freeze-dried entrees (Mountain House or Alpine Air), and packaged main course items (ramen, Lipton Rice or Noodles, macaroni and cheese). Various hot drinks (tea and cocoa) and dessert are also provided.

Every attempt is made to assure a variety and adequate quantity.

Travel, culture, & logistics

This page covers the practical details you’ll want to review before your trip, including travel logistics, entry requirements, local considerations, and required policies. Taking time to understand these details ahead of departure helps ensure a smoother experience once you’re on the ground and focused on the climb.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Flights to Alaska

Climbers need to arrive at Anchorage International Airport (ANC) by 1:00 pm on Day 1 of the program. The group will meet at 1:30 p.m., Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel #1.

If your flight cannot arrive in Anchorage before 1:00 p.m., it will be necessary to arrive a day earlier and go to the airport to meet the team.

We have found it works well to book a one-way flight to Anchorage, AK, for the beginning of your trip, then scheduling your return flight once the team returns to Talkeetna. Another option is to book a flight with a flexible return date. This works better than an open-ended ticket or missing an early return date.

Shuttle to Talkeetna

We will arrange a transfer from Anchorage to Talkeetna at 2:00 p.m. the day your program begins. Please arrive in Anchorage no later than 1:00 p.m. Talkeetna is a three-hour drive from Anchorage. If you are traveling to Talkeetna on your own, please let RMI know in advance that you will not require transportation.

Anchorage Accommodations Near the Airport

If you are arriving in Anchorage the day before your program begins, below are some hotel options close to the Anchorage Airport:

ADDITIONAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

Weather

Mt. McKinley's weather forecast is updated through the National Weather Service

Tipping

Our guides put considerable effort into ensuring your wellbeing and success on the mountain. If you had a positive experience, leaving a gratuity is a wonderful gesture to show your appreciation. The amount is up to you and should reflect how much you enjoyed the service. Typically, tips for excellent service range from 10% to 15% of the program cost. Guides can accept gratuities in cash, Venmo, or by check. If you prefer, you can also pay tips using a credit card through the RMI Office.

Resources

Mountaineering is replete with literary accounts of high adventure in Alaska. For aspiring Mt. McKinley climbers, certain historical narratives, as well as how-to guide books, can prove both entertaining and educational, significantly adding to one's enjoyment of the expedition.

The list below represents some personal favorites from over three decades of guiding in Alaska. I particularly enjoy the story of the first winter ascent: Minus 148 degrees!

Whether you are challenging the West Buttress or learning crevasse rescue on the Ruth Glacier, these titles will greatly enhance your experience and appreciation of Alaska!

- Joe Horiskey

  • Bass, D., Wells, F., Ridgeway, R. Seven Summits 1986
  • Beckey, Fred Mount McKinley: Icy Crown of North America 1993
  • Bezruhka, Stephen Altitude Illness - Prevention & Treatment 2001
  • Cole, Terence The Sourdough Expedition: Stories of the Pioneer Alaskans Who Climbed Mount McKinley in l910 1985
  • Davidson, Art Minus 148: The Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley 1986
  • Houston, Charles Going Higher: The Story of Man and Altitude 1987
  • Mason, Gen Minus Three 1970
  • Michener, James A. Alaska 1988
  • Moore, Terris Mount McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs 1981
  • Roberts, David The Mountain of My Fear 1968
  • Randall, Francis Denali Diary: Letters from McKinley 1987
  • Seattle Mountaineers The Freedom of the Hills 2017
  • Selters, Andy Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue 2009 (second printing)
  • Sherwonit, Bill To The Top of Denali 2013 (third edition)
  • Sherwonit, Bill Denali, A Literary Anthology 2000
  • Stuck, Hudson The Ascent of Denali 1914
  • Washburn, B., Roberts, D. Mount McKinley - The Conquest of Denali 1991

Expedition Policies

The following policies are applicable for this expedition.

Included

  • RMI guide leadership from experienced guides responsible for planning, decision-making, and on-mountain execution
  • Expedition mountaineering instruction
  • All required Denali National Park climbing permits and fees
  • Round-trip glacier flight (Talkeetna ↔ Ruth Glacier)
  • Shuttle transportation between Anchorage and Talkeetna
  • Pre-trip lodging in Talkeetna
  • Group breakfasts, dinners, and drinks (coffee, tea, etc.) while on the mountain
  • Group climbing and camping equipment

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure.

Not Included

  • Travel to and from Anchorage, AK
  • Travel insurance and medical evacuation insurance
  • Accommodations and meals after the program, and any Talkeetna lodging beyond the included pre-trip night
  • Mountain lunches and snacks
  • Personal gear and equipment
  • Customary guide gratuities (10–15% of program cost recommended)
  • Personal expenses
  • Excess baggage fees

PAYMENTS

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $1,250 per person secures your reservation.

  • Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank, or wire transfer**.
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

  • Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
  • Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions.

**Wire transfers must include all fees charged by your bank. The amount received by our bank must match the deposit amount.

Cancellation

The deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

  • Cancellations must be submitted in writing. Once received, the following policy applies:
    • Cancellations made 120 or more days before the program start date will forfeit the deposit.
    • Cancellations made less than 120 days before the program start date will not receive refunds or credits.

We do not offer refunds. Please remember this before registering for this program. Due to the time-sensitive nature of this program, no exceptions will be made to the cancellation policy.

CHANGE OF DATE

Date changes are subject to availability and can only be applied to the current climbing season. Changes must be requested at least 90 days before the departure date and will incur a $200 fee per person. No date changes are allowed within 90 days of departure.

Risk Management Policy

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

PARTICIPANT RESPONSIBILITIES

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

  • Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
  • Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
  • Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
  • Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
  • Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Show respect for the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
  • Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
  • Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
  • Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotels, meals, etc.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age Requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media.

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes.

Here are the key points:

  1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
  2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
  3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
  4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them.
  5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
  6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
  7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

Summit Attempt Policy

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

GENERAL POLICIES

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to, increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same- gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Expedition Skills Seminar on the Ruth Glacier is a fly-in program in a remote Alaska Range environment, and the questions climbers ask most often reflect that commitment. The answers below address how the program is structured, what the terrain and instruction demand, and what climbers should expect from nine days on the glacier working toward a summit attempt on Mt. Dickey.

Program Structure and Logistics

What is the climber-to-guide ratio on this program?

The Expedition Skills Seminar maintains a 3:1 climber-to-guide ratio throughout. This ratio supports consistent, personalized instruction across both training days and climbing objectives.

How is the program structured across the nine days on the glacier?

The program moves through progressive stages: foundational glacier and rope skills in the early days, a push to high camp at 747 Pass and a summit attempt on Mt. Dickey in the middle of the program, and dedicated crevasse rescue and expedition systems training in the final days. The structure is designed so that each day builds directly on what came before.

What happens if weather prevents flying to the glacier on Day 2?

Flights to the Ruth Glacier are operated by K2 Aviation and are weather dependent. If conditions prevent the glacier flight on Day 2, the team will wait in Talkeetna until flying is possible. Return flights from Anchorage should be booked with flexibility to accommodate potential weather delays.

Is there a fixed end date for this program?

The program operates on an approximate itinerary that accounts for weather, route conditions, and team readiness. Return flights from Anchorage should be booked to depart no earlier than one week after the program's scheduled end date.

Travel and Flights

When should I arrive in Anchorage?

Climbers must arrive at Anchorage International Airport by 1:00 p.m. on Day 1. The group meets at 1:30 p.m. at the Alaska Airlines domestic baggage claim, carousel 1. Shuttle transportation to Talkeetna is included and departs at 2:00 p.m.

How do we get to the glacier?

After gear checks and preparation in Talkeetna on Day 2, the team flies to the Ruth Glacier via ski plane with K2 Aviation. The flight takes approximately 45 minutes one way and passes through spectacular glacial valleys in the heart of the Alaska Range.

When should I book my return flight?

Return flights should be booked to depart Anchorage no earlier than one week after the program's scheduled end date. Weather delays affecting glacier flights are common in Alaska, and an inflexible return ticket creates real risk of missing your flight home.

Is there an opportunity to purchase food or gear before flying to the glacier?

The team stops at a grocery store in Wasilla en route to Talkeetna on Day 1 for any last-minute fresh food purchases. There is no reliable place to purchase gear in Talkeetna, so all equipment should be sourced and tested before arriving in Alaska.

Fitness and Readiness

How fit do I need to be for this program?

You should arrive in solid physical condition and prepared to carry 40 to 50 pounds, haul a sled on glacier terrain, and sustain physical effort across multiple consecutive days including a full summit day on Mt. Dickey. Training should emphasize sustained aerobic output with a loaded pack, core strength, and the ability to move efficiently on uneven terrain for extended periods.

What technical experience is required before arriving?

There are no formal technical prerequisites for this program. Prior experience with rope handling, crampons, and ice axe use is recommended, as is experience with multi-day backpacking or winter camping. Climbers who arrive with some of this background will find the instructional progression more manageable.

Is this program appropriate for first-time glacier travelers?

Yes, though climbers with no prior glacier experience should arrive with strong physical preparation and a willingness to engage seriously with instruction from day one. The program is designed to build skills progressively, and guides will establish foundational glacier travel skills early in the itinerary.

Route, Terrain, and On-Mountain Experience

What kind of terrain does the program cover?

The program covers glacier travel, snow and ice climbing, and technical rope work on the Ruth Glacier and surrounding terrain in the Great Gorge. The primary climbing objective is the summit of Mt. Dickey via the West Face, reached from high camp at 747 Pass.

What does the summit day on Mt. Dickey involve?

Summit day departs from high camp at 747 Pass, wrapping around to gain the West Ridge before ascending the broad West Face to the 9,545-foot summit. The climb offers expansive views of the Alaska Range and the Ruth Glacier's Great Gorge far below. After summiting, the team descends back to high camp.

What is the move to high camp like?

The route to 747 Pass follows an ascending glacial valley to the south of Mt. Dickey. The team carries gear needed for the summit push and caches unnecessary equipment at base camp before moving up.

What happens after the summit attempt?

After descending from 747 Pass back to base camp, the program shifts to crevasse rescue training and technical expedition skills, including snow and ice anchor construction, fixed-line travel, and sled rigging. These sessions are designed specifically to prepare climbers for larger glaciated objectives like Mt. McKinley.

Weather, Conditions, and Decision-Making

What kind of weather should I expect on the Ruth Glacier?

Weather in the Alaska Range is variable and can change quickly. The Great Gorge is a dramatic and committing environment, and climbers should be prepared for a full range of conditions including wind, precipitation, and reduced visibility. Weather significantly influences the daily schedule and the summit window on Mt. Dickey.

How do guides decide when to attempt the summit?

Guides assess weather, route conditions, and team readiness before committing to the push to high camp and the summit attempt. If conditions are not suitable, the team will wait at base camp or adjust the schedule accordingly.

What happens if severe weather prevents the summit attempt?

The program itinerary is structured with enough flexibility to absorb weather days. If the summit attempt on Mt. Dickey is not possible due to conditions, guides will use the time for additional technical training on the terrain available from base camp.

Instruction and Learning Experience

How is instruction delivered throughout the program?

Skills are introduced in structured sessions at base camp and applied directly on the terrain surrounding the Ruth Glacier. Evening discussions throughout the seminar cover mountain medicine, weather interpretation, route finding, expedition techniques, and decision-making. Instruction is woven into the climbing rather than delivered separately from it.

What McKinley-specific skills are covered?

The program dedicates specific sessions to sled rigging and hauling, fixed-line travel with mechanical ascenders, expedition camp construction, and crevasse rescue with full expedition loads. These are the systems that define performance on Mt. McKinley and other large glaciated peaks, and the Ruth Glacier environment closely mirrors what those objectives demand.

Will completing this program make me eligible for the Mt. McKinley West Buttress Expedition?

Successful completion of this seminar, combined with prior experience on Mt. Rainier or other glaciated peaks, makes climbers eligible for RMI's Mt. McKinley expeditions. The program is explicitly designed as a preparation pathway for that objective.

Safety and Emergency Response

How does RMI manage risk in a remote glacier environment?

Guides conduct thorough pre-climb planning for each objective, assess conditions continuously throughout the program, and carry comprehensive medical and communication equipment including satellite phones and two-way radios. All guides hold wilderness medicine certifications and technical rescue training. The remote nature of the Ruth Glacier makes guide judgment on conditions, route selection, and team readiness the primary risk management tool.

What happens in the event of an injury or medical emergency?

Guides are trained in remote medicine and carry comprehensive medical kits. In the event of a serious injury or medical emergency, guides can coordinate with the National Park Service and K2 Aviation for evacuation. Response will depend on the nature of the situation and current weather and flying conditions.

Is avalanche safety covered in the program?

Avalanche transceiver use is introduced on Day 2 and reviewed throughout the program. Guides conduct ongoing hazard assessment and factor avalanche conditions into daily objective selection and route planning throughout the nine days on the glacier.

Relevant Resources

When you've been in business since 1969, you pick up a thing or two about mountains you guide. Below are the resources relevant to this program, but you can check out our full Resources section for all of our hard earned knowledge.

Reviews

Climbers rated RMI with an average of 5 stars across 0 ratings

Climber reviews of the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Ruth Glacier consistently reflect the impact of learning expedition systems in a genuine Alaska Range environment. Participants highlight the depth of instruction, the dramatic setting of the Great Gorge, and the sense of accomplishment that comes from applying new skills on a real summit objective. For many climbers, this seminar represents a meaningful step forward in their expedition readiness and a clear reference point for what larger glaciated peaks will demand.

May 24, 2026

Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

Beautiful mountains and was great flying in. Learned a lot.

Justin d

May 21, 2026

Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

Quick turnaround. Excellent logistics.

Yevgeniy F

May 29, 2025

Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

I think it's the perfect class to prep for or decide if you really want to take it to the next level and CLIMB Denali. My skills were rusty, so I still need some practice, but I can't think of a better way to get ready!

Steve W

May 15, 2023

Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

As always with RMI, it was just a great group of both clients and guides. Location was amazing, logistics were all handled superbly, and all the key desired outcomes were met!

Christopher B

May 15, 2023

Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

Great group of people, amazing environment. Jack and Mike are excellent guides and nice down to earth people.

John K

May 31, 2022

Expedition Skills Seminar - Ruth Glacier

This expedition was instrumental for me in my consideration of a Denali trip. If I were RMI, I would continue the Ruth Glacier expedition for anyone interested in Denali, or skill building more generally.

Lenhardt S