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The North Cascades are among the most technically varied mountain ranges in the contiguous United States, with more glaciers than any other range outside Alaska. Steep ridgelines, remote approaches, and mixed rock-and-ice terrain define a range that asks more of climbers than most Pacific Northwest objectives and gives back accordingly.
The North Cascades are home to more than 300 glaciers and some of the most technical guided alpine terrain available in the Pacific Northwest.
RMI's North Cascades programs span glaciated peak ascents, technical routes, and skills-focused climbing in one of the most rewarding alpine environments in the country. The range offers terrain at every level of commitment, and the programs are built to match it. Every climb is led by guides with deep familiarity with the range's conditions, routes, and character. From single-day climbs on Mt. Baker to multi-day technical routes on Shuksan and Forbidden Peak, the programs below are organized by peak and difficulty — browse to find the right objective.
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Skill Development
A six-day instructional mountaineering seminar in the North Cascades — rock skills at Mt. Erie, glacier training on the Coleman Glacier, and a summit climb of Mt. Baker (10,781') at a 3:1 ratio.
Skill Development
An advanced alpine seminar integrating technical instruction with real North Cascades objectives.
Skiing
Foundational backcountry touring systems, group travel techniques, and applied decision-making.
Mountaineering
A five-day climb of Glacier Peak via the Gerdine and Cool Glaciers, combining a long backcountry approach with moderate glacier climbing on Washington's most remote volcano.
Mountaineering
A moderate, instructional glacier climb and ideal first step into Cascades mountaineering.
Skiing
A classic summit ski descent offering big vertical and extended spring conditions on Mount Baker.
Mountaineering
A moderate, goal-oriented glacier climb on one of the North Cascades’ classic volcanoes.
Mountaineering
A classic, technical alpine climb featuring sustained snow and ice on Mount Baker’s iconic north side.
Skill Development
A six-day instructional mountaineering seminar combining foundational skills training with an expedition-style ascent of Mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier.
Mountaineering
A three-day alpine climb of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys route, involving moderate rock climbing, glacier travel, and a committing summit day from high camp.
Mountaineering
A four-day alpine climb of Forbidden Peak's West Ridge, combining moderate glacier travel with exposed ridge climbing on one of North America's fifty classic climbs.
Mountaineering
A four-day alpine climb of Mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide Glacier, combining moderate glacier travel with an exposed, committing summit pyramid.
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The range has more to offer than any single program list can cover. If you have a specific peak in mind, a group with particular goals, or an objective that doesn't fit a standard format, RMI can build a program around it.
The North Cascades range from glaciated volcano ascents similar to Rainier (Mt. Baker) to more technical mixed rock-and-ice routes (Forbidden Peak, Mt. Shuksan). It's a good range for climbers who've done a standard glacier climb and want to build technical skill.
It depends on the route. Mt. Baker's standard routes are accessible to climbers with Rainier-level experience or RMI's own skills seminars; routes like Forbidden Peak's West Ridge and Mt. Shuksan involve more technical rock and glacier terrain and benefit from prior guided experience.
Summer — typically July through September — offers the most stable conditions and best route access, once winter snowpack has consolidated and early-season avalanche hazard has dropped.
The range holds more than 300 glaciers, more than any other range in the contiguous US outside Alaska, which is what gives it such varied glacier travel and route options within a relatively compact area.
Standard glacier travel gear — crampons, ice axe, harness, and roped-travel equipment — plus route-specific technical gear for routes like Shuksan or Forbidden Peak. Each program page lists its specific equipment requirements.
Yes — RMI's Expedition Skills Seminars on Baker, Shuksan, and other North Cascades routes are built to teach glacier travel and technical skills as part of the climb itself, not as a separate step before it.
Planning guides from RMI's guide team on technical skills, safety, and getting ready for the North Cascades.
When we learn about risk, we’re not learning to avoid danger. We’re building the judgment to recognize when it is time to pivot, pause, or call it. That’s the true mark of a mountain professional.
In climbing, the margin of safety is the buffer between risk and return. Learn what it means, how to build it on the mountain, and how RMI guides set the standard for risk management.
RMI Guide Sam Hoffman reflects on a five-day immersion into the craft of teaching, guiding, and moving efficiently through technical ice and mixed terrain.
Learn mountain movement and efficiency techniques from RMI guide Billy Haas to improve your climbing performance. Train smarter with expert tips.
