Mt. McKinley Prep Course

5 Days

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Mountaineering

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$2,050

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$600

Deposit

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Novice

Overview

Preparatory

A focused expedition training course designed to build the systems and confidence required for a Mount McKinley expedition.

Realistic

Conducted in winter conditions on Mount Rainier that closely mirror the cold, complexity, and camp life of McKinley.

Systems

An opportunity to test out your systems for Alaska - from gear and apparel to food and downtime routines.

It was such a unique experience to winter camp on Rainier, especially being the only 4 humans on the mountain! There was great camaraderie with our group and the guides were extremely knowledgeable and inspirational.

Sarah G.

The McKinley Prep Course is a five-day training course designed for climbers preparing for an expedition to Mount McKinley. Rather than pursuing a summit objective, this program focuses on the systems, skills, and decision-making required to operate effectively during a long, cold, glacier-based expedition.

Held on Mount Rainier in winter conditions, the course uses terrain and weather that closely resemble what climbers encounter on McKinley. Participants spend their time hauling sleds, establishing expedition-style camps, managing loads, and practicing core glacier travel and rescue techniques. The emphasis is on repetition, efficiency, and understanding how systems function together over multiple days in a cold, demanding environment.

This seminar is intentionally practical. Climbers use the course to test gear and apparel, refine camp routines, and build familiarity with the physical and mental rhythms of expedition life. Classroom instruction is paired with extensive field time, allowing participants to connect technical skills with real-world application. While the course includes detailed discussion of McKinley-specific logistics and challenges, it does not include a summit attempt of Mount Rainier and should be viewed as preparation rather than a substitute for expedition experience.

Why RMI

Setting the Standard Since 1969

Preparing well for Mount McKinley requires more than strong fitness or individual skills. It requires understanding how expedition systems function together over many cold, demanding days. RMI’s decades of guiding on McKinley directly inform how this seminar is structured, what it emphasizes, and what it deliberately leaves out.

As one of the longest-operating guide services in North America, RMI has extensive experience leading McKinley expeditions and training climbers for them. That experience shapes a preparation philosophy grounded in realism: focusing on sled hauling, load management, cold-weather camp routines, and glacier systems rather than summit metrics or simulated success. The McKinley Prep Course reflects how McKinley expeditions actually unfold, not how people hope they will.

RMI guides leading this course bring firsthand McKinley experience into every part of the program. Instruction is rooted in practical decision-making, repetition, and systems thinking, allowing participants to understand not just what to do, but why those systems matter over the course of a long expedition. Small group sizes support meaningful coaching, clear communication, and the ability to adapt instruction to individual experience levels.

Expedition Highlights

Snow-covered mountain under night sky with star trails and climbers' headlamps lighting the slope.
National Park Service emblem with tree, mountain, bison, and text 'Authorized Concessioner' below.

Authorized Concessioner

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is an authorized Concessioner of the National Park Service, Department of the Interior. Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. is authorized to provide guided mountaineering services, mountaineering day school, alpine training, and guided winter activities within Mount Rainier National Park.

Address comments to:
Superintendent | Mount Rainier National Park
55210 238th Avenue East
Ashford, WA 98304

Snow-covered mountain peaks under a partly cloudy blue sky.
Logo with 2025 inside a circle of grey and blue dots and text offsetters carbon neutral climbs and expeditions.

Carbon Neutral Climbs

All our climbs in Mt. Rainier & Denali National Parks are 100% carbon neutral. We have acquired offsets for greenhouse gas emissions through our partnership with Ostrom Climate, Canada's top carbon management solutions provider. Their carbon offset projects undergo rigorous verification by third parties to validate that emission reductions are genuine and permanent, ensuring that our contribution is making a tangible impact.

Itinerary

Overview

Prepare for the physical, technical, and logistical demands of a major expedition through a focused, expedition-style training climb. This itinerary emphasizes heavy load carries, camp systems, and disciplined pacing, mirroring the realities of Mt. McKinley-level objectives in a controlled alpine environment.

Point of Origin

Ashford, WA

Total Program Duration

5 Days

Skill Level

Novice

Training Area

Paradise Zone

Highest Point

7,000' / 2,133 m

Seasonality

Winter | Spring

Longest Day

10 Hours

Skills & Takeaways

What You’ll Walk Away With

The McKinley Prep Course is designed to prepare climbers for the specific systems, logistics, and self-sufficiency required on McKinley. Instruction focuses on expedition realities that go beyond technical climbing, emphasizing sled travel, camp systems, cold management, and team responsibilities in prolonged, high-latitude environments.

By the end of the course, climbers will have practical experience with:

  • Planning and organizing a McKinley-style expedition, including gear selection, nutrition, hydration, and route considerations
  • Rigging, hauling, and managing sleds while traveling roped on snow and glaciers
  • Constructing efficient expedition camps, including tent platforms, wind protection, and daily camp routines
  • Building and evaluating snow anchors and executing advanced crevasse rescue techniques appropriate for McKinley guided teams
  • Ascending and descending fixed lines with expedition loads
  • Managing cold weather exposure, including snow cave construction and cold-related risk mitigation
  • Navigating expedition living expectations such as self-care, communication, and shared team responsibilities
  • Operating within the technical and logistical systems expected on RMI’s McKinley expeditions

Day 1

CLASSROOM INSTRUCTION & GEAR CHECK

8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.: Meet at 8:00 a.m. at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford, WA. Please dress casually and bring your climbing equipment and clothing. We'll begin with an in-depth classroom session covering essential Mt. McKinley prep topics such as gear selection, route planning, nutrition, hydration, and Leave No Trace principles, and technical skills. Finalize gear checks and prep for field training. Evening lodging in Ashford.

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Day 2

EXPEDITION RIGGING & CAMP CONSTRUCTION

Depart for Paradise. We will go over sled rigging and rope travel (with sleds), as well as the basics of travel on snowshoes in order to depart. Our objective will be a camp in the near treeline areas around Paradise. We will spend the afternoon going over solid and efficient camp construction and comfort essentials. Evening: Discuss expedition living, self-care, communication, and responsibilities. (B, D)

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Day 3

CREVASSE RESCUE & ANCHOR BUILDING

Review of basic mountaineering skills, snow anchor construction, crevasse rescue, and expand to drop C techniques likely to be employed by a guided team on Mt. McKinley. Break camp and move further into the alpine. Afternoon: Fixed line training for ascending and descending steep terrain. Evening: Avalanche awareness. (B, D)

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Day 4

NAVIGATION, SELF CARE AND SURVIVAL

The team will work to establish an objective for a morning climb - leaving camp and practicing travel and climbing skills to reach the objective, before returning to camp. Afternoon: Cold weather survival skills, including snow cave construction. Evening: Mt. McKinley-specific briefings on the West Buttress route, logistics, and high-altitude physiology. (B, D)

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Day 5

DESCENT & DEBRIEF

Breakdown camp and hike back to Paradise, utilizing navigation and hazard management skills along the way. There will also be time to address lingering questions. We will wrap up the course in Ashford with a debriefing session and personalized feedback from guides. (B)

Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.

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Qualifications

Fitness

Participants must be in excellent physical condition and prepared for winter travel with a 40–50 lb pack and sled hauling.

Experience

The Mt. McKinley Prep Course is designed for intermediate climbers with previous mountaineering experience, however no avalanche or crevasse rescue experience is required.

Altitude

Altitude is a non-factor on this program — training takes place between roughly 5,400' at Paradise and a high point near 7,000'.

The McKinley Prep Course is intended for climbers who already have a foundation in mountaineering and are preparing for the realities of a cold, glacier-based expedition. Participants should arrive comfortable with basic glacier travel and ready to train in winter conditions over multiple days.

No prior crevasse rescue or avalanche education is required. These skills are taught and practiced during the course, with an emphasis on repetition, efficiency, and understanding how individual systems function together during an expedition. Fitness plays a central role, as the course involves sustained movement, sled hauling, and extended time operating in cold environments.

This seminar is best suited to climbers who are actively preparing for Mount McKinley or a similar expedition objective and want structured, realistic training in expedition systems rather than a summit attempt.

A Note for Mount McKinley Aspirants

Climbers joining an RMI expedition on Mount McKinley’s West Buttress are required to have formal technical training in areas such as snow and ice travel, crevasse rescue, fixed-line ascension, and winter camping, as well as experience completing a long summit day of 12 or more hours on glaciated terrain at or above 14,000 feet.

The McKinley Prep Course fulfills the technical training requirement. It does not fulfill the long summit requirement. That experience can be completed either before or after this course through a Mount Rainier summit climb or a similar objective.

Recommended Climbing Resumé

Your climbing resumé should include:

Prior experience on glaciated terrain

Comfort traveling roped on snow and ice

Experience carrying a 40–50 lb pack in winter conditions

Familiarity with basic mountaineering movement and pacing

Ability to train and operate for multiple days in cold environments

Motivation to prepare for a longer expedition rather than pursue a summit objective

Items marked with an Asterix (*) are considered mandatory prerequisites for this program.

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering places sustained demands on your body and your ability to stay composed under effort. Even very fit people find that moving uphill with weight, for long hours, in variable weather is a different kind of challenge than most everyday training.

Preparation matters. Fitness directly affects how well you move, how much you learn, how the team functions, and how enjoyable the experience is overall.

Start early. Begin training well in advance of your program with the goal of arriving rested, resilient, and confident in your capacity for sustained effort.

Train intentionally. Emphasize aerobic endurance, uphill movement, and strength that supports long days on your feet. Core stability, balance, and mobility all play an important role in efficiency and injury prevention.

Train specifically. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the demands of mountaineering: hiking uphill with weight, moving steadily for hours, and recovering well enough to do it again the next day.

Across RMI programs, strong preparation typically means being comfortable with long days of continuous movement, carrying a pack appropriate to the objective, and maintaining focus and decision-making when tired. Technical skills are taught or reviewed as appropriate to each program, but fitness is something you bring with you.

Nothing contributes more to a successful and rewarding experience than arriving well prepared. Plan to be in excellent physical condition and ready for a demanding day in the mountains.

Fitness And Training Resources

Our guides have decades of experience training for alpine objectives, and we've done our best to put together relevant resources to help you with your expedition preparation.

Your Role as a Climber

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Before any program begins, RMI works directly with prospective climbers to confirm that everyone joining a team is genuinely prepared for the demands ahead. Depending on the program, this may involve conversations with our office staff, a review of your climbing history, or feedback from guides and other climbers who know your abilities. The goal is straightforward: to ensure that every person on the rope belongs there. We ask that each climber hold themselves to the same standard:

  • Meet Program Prerequisites: Arrive with the climbing experience, qualifications, and gear outlined for your program.
  • Arrive Prepared: Come in top physical and mental condition. Strong preparation directly affects your performance, your teammates' experience, and the team's overall safety.
  • Be Informed: Review all pre-departure materials and communicate any questions to the RMI office before your start date.
  • Medical Clearance: Provide any required medical documentation and inform the RMI office of any changes to your health before departure.
  • Team Consideration: Act considerately toward all team members and respect the customs and values of the areas you travel through.
  • Environmental Respect: Follow Leave No Trace practices throughout the program.
  • Communicate Honestly: Accurately represent your fitness, health, skills, and equipment to your guide staff, and keep them informed of any changes during the program.
  • Stay Accountable: Attend all briefings and gear checks, follow guide instructions, and take personal responsibility for your equipment, hygiene, and readiness for changing conditions.
  • Self-Assess Continuously: Evaluate your fitness and readiness honestly against the demands of the program. Your willingness to do so contributes directly to the safety of the entire team.

The standards we set exist to protect everyone on the team. RMI holds all climbers accountable to them, and we take seriously our responsibility to build teams of people who are ready to be in the mountains together. RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including evacuation, transportation, lodging, and meals.

Equipment

What You'll Need

The McKinley Prep Course takes place in winter conditions on Mount Rainier and is designed to replicate the systems and demands of a cold, glacier-based expedition. Climbers should be prepared for extended time in cold temperatures, sled hauling, and multi-day camp living where gear organization, durability, and cold-weather performance matter as much as technical capability.

This equipment list reflects expedition standards rather than summit-day minimalism. Not every item will be in constant use, but all required gear must be brought and available. The course is an opportunity to test systems, identify weaknesses, and refine personal setups before a Mount McKinley expedition, making full compliance with the equipment list an essential part of the learning process.

This is the gear list for the McKinley Prep course - it is NOT identical to the McKinley West Buttress Gear List. If you have gear or apparel that you would like to bring, and that is required for the McKinley West Buttress program, please feel free to bring it along. Otherwise, this gear list is adequate for the McKinley Prep Course in winter conditions on Mount Rainier.

Guide pick™

Each RMI program includes a required personal equipment list built around the specific terrain, conditions, and objectives of the climb. Every item serves a purpose and supports safety, efficiency, and comfort in the mountains.

Guide Picks™ are examples that meet our performance standards and illustrate the type of gear we recommend. Each year, our partners at Whittaker Mountaineering survey our staff of 70+ guides to get a consensus on the best gear for the job. You do not need to purchase the exact item shown, but any alternative must offer comparable function and durability.

All listed items are required for the gear check. Final adjustments may be recommended by your guide based on conditions and team needs once the expedition begins.

Gear Up

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.

Equipment List

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Pack & Travel

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Technical Gear

Head

Hands

Upper Body

Lower Body

Feet

First Aid & Medications

Personal Items

Travel Clothes

Travel Documents

Pre-Trip Checklist

Provided Equipment

Pack & Travel

100+ Duffel Bag(s)

A durable duffel bag (100-120L) made of tough material with rugged zippers for gear transport and storage. Can be used as checked luggage and for organizing gear at base locations.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

85+ Liter Backpack

A technical climbing pack large enough to carry personal gear, layers, food, water, and a share of group equipment including tent portions. You will not need a separate summit pack.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

-20° - 0°F Sleeping Bag

We recommend a bag rated between 0° and -20° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a -20° F bag.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Compression Stuff Sack For Sleeping Bag

A compression stuff sack to reduce sleeping bag volume and protect it from moisture during transport and on the mountain.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

A full-length inflatable sleeping pad for warmth and comfort in alpine conditions.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Closed Foam Sleeping Pad

A full-length closed-cell foam pad for insulation and puncture insurance, used alone or in combination with an inflatable pad.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Ice Axe

A straight-shaft ice axe with a classic pick and adze designed for glacier travel, self-arrest, and general snow climbing. Should be appropriately sized for your height.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Climbing Harness

A comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop-seat, or adjustable leg loops are recommended for managing layers and bathroom breaks in the mountains.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Triple-action Locking Carabiner

Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Locking Carabiner(s)

Used for clipping into anchors, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Non-locking Carabiner(s)

Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

General Mountaineering Crampons

10- or 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates for general mountaineering and glacier travel. Automatic, semi-automatic, or strap-on attachment depending on boot compatibility. Ensure crampons are compatible with your specific boots before your program.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Avalanche Transceiver With Fresh Batteries

A three-antenna avalanche transceiver with fresh batteries for travel in avalanche terrain. Bring extra batteries appropriate to the program duration.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Mechanical Ascender

For traveling on fixed lines. Most people prefer an ascender designed for their weak hand, leaving their strong hand free to hold their ice axe. For example, a right-handed person would use a left-handed ascender.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Double-Length Sewn Nylon Sling

120 cm sewn sling (double-length runner) for anchor building and general climbing use.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Single-Length Sewn Nylon Sling

60 cm sewn sling (single-length runner) for anchor building and general climbing use.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

6mm Accessory Cord

Lightweight accessory cord for prusiks, cordelettes, and general mountaineering applications. Purchase at least 15 feet and pre-cut to lengths specified in your program's detailed gear list PDF.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Bungee Cords

Approximately 12-20 inches each for securing gear and equipment.

Guide Pick™
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Technical Gear

Nylon Cord

Paracord or thin (3-4mm) accessory cord for lashing gear and general utility use.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Snowshoes

Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe- 22" is an ideal size. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. You will log miles of roped glacier travel while wearing snowshoes, so spend some time walking in them prior to the trip. We highly recommend models with a heel lift, which makes uphill travel significantly easier.

Guide Pick™
Head

Helmet

A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Beanie

Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Ball Cap Or Sun Hat

A hat without a button on top will fit better and be more comfortable under a helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Buff or Neck Gaiter

A versatile neck gaiter or buff for head and neck protection in variable conditions.

Guide Pick™
Head

Balaclava

A heavy insulated balaclava for extreme cold, designed to be layered with a buff or neck gaiter to eliminate exposed skin.

Guide Pick™
Head

Thermal Facemask

A neoprene or insulated facemask for additional face protection in severe cold and wind.

Guide Pick™
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Head

Headlamp

Start with fresh batteries and bring extra set(s) of batteries appropriate to the duration of the trip.

Guide Pick™
Head

Glacier Glasses

Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

Guide Pick™
Head

Goggles

Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Lightweight Gloves

Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Medium Weight Gloves

Insulated gloves for active climbing and moderate cold conditions. Should allow adequate dexterity for handling gear while providing warmth.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Heavy Weight Gloves Or Mittens

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency backups if you drop or lose a lighter-weight glove.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Expedition Weight Mittens

Heavily insulated mittens for extreme cold and high-altitude conditions. Should fit over liner gloves and allow enough dexterity for basic tasks.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Upper Body Layering

We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.

Guide Pick™
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Upper Body

Lightweight Baselayer or Sun Hoody

A lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirt in synthetic or merino wool for sun protection and moisture management during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Lightweight Insulating Layer

One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Medium Weight Insulating Layer

An insulated jacket or softshell for warmth during low-output activity and extended rest breaks. Should fit over baselayers and midlayers, and under a shell.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Heavy Weight Insulating Layer

A hooded down or synthetic insulated jacket that fits over all other upper body layers. Primarily worn in camp and during rest breaks on summit day.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Hardshell Jacket

A waterproof jacket with a hood for protection against wind, rain, and snow. Should fit comfortably over all insulating layers.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Down Parka With Attached Hood

An expedition-style down parka that extends below the waist with an insulated hood, designed to fit over all other layers. Worn primarily in camp, during rest breaks, and on summit day. Down fill recommended over synthetic.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Sports Bra

We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lower Body Layering

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

Guide Pick™
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Lower Body

Pairs Of Underwear

Non-cotton briefs or boxers.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lightweight Baselayer Bottoms

Lightweight synthetic or merino wool baselayer bottoms for moisture management and temperature regulation during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Climbing Pants

Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Hardshell Pants

Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Synthetic Insulated Pants

A pair of lightweight, insulated pants are ideal for extra warmth on summit day and cold days at camps. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Double Mountaineering Boots

Insulated double boots with removable inner boots for cold, high-altitude mountaineering. Modern synthetic models are lighter and more comfortable than traditional plastic-shelled boots.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Overboots

Insulated overboots designed to fit over double mountaineering boots for additional warmth in extreme cold and high-altitude conditions.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Booties

Goose down or synthetic fill. Nice for evenings at camp.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Casual Shoes

Great for traveling and wearing around town or camp. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

Guide Pick™
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Feet

Gaiters

A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Pairs Of Socks

Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

Guide Pick™
First Aid & Medications

Small Personal First Aid Kit

Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, basic pain reliever, and personal medications.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Meals & Snacks

You are responsible for providing your own meals and snack food in town and while on your program. See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Bowl

Packable plastic bowl. Collapsable models can work but must be handled carefully to avoid unintended collapsing. A lid is a great feature.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Insulated Mug or Bottle

Insulated outdoor-style mug. We recommend a model with a removable lid, which helps retain heat and prevent spills. You may also choose to use 0.5L insulated bottle or a 0.5L Nalgene.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Utensils

A spoon or spork made of durable plastic or anodized metal. A long-handled spoon can be nice, especially if eating from a freeze-dried meal pouch.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Water Bottles

One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Thermos

High quality, durable vacuum bottle with a volume of 1/2 liter or 1 liter.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Insulated Water Bottle Covers

These help prevent freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.

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Personal Items

Stuff Sack(s)

Bring as needed.

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Personal Items

Large Garbage Bags

Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Pocket Knife

A small folding knife or multi-tool for general utility and gear repairs in the field.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Reading Material/journal

Books, magazines, or a journal for downtime at camp; a Kindle or similar e-reader is a practical alternative for longer expeditions where weight and bulk matter. Choose based on program length and personal preference.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Personal Toiletries & Bag

Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Travel Size Hand Sanitizer

A compact hand sanitizer for use when soap and water aren't available during approach and camp periods. Bring a bottle small enough to fit in a pack pocket.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Sunscreen

We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Lip Balm

We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Ear Plugs

Disposable or reusable ear plugs for sleeping in shared tent or hut accommodations.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Spare Contact Lenses/ Eyeglasses

Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

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Personal Items

Pee Bottle

One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Pee Funnel (for Women)

Practice using this before coming on the climb!

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Camera

Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

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Personal Items

Power Bank

A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

Solar Panel

A small solar panel to charge personal electronics.

Guide Pick™
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Personal Items

GPS Watch

A GPS-enabled watch with altimeter, barometer, and compass for navigation and weather monitoring. Many modern smart watches and dedicated outdoor watches offer this functionality.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Satellite Communicator

Communicate with family and friends back home, track your progress, and much more. Generally requires a subscription plan. Make sure this is a modern model that makes it difficult to initiate an accidental SOS call.

Guide Pick™
Travel Clothes

Travel Clothes

We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, sightseeing and dining.  

Guide Pick™
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Pre-Trip Checklist

Insurance

Purchase travel insurance.

Guide Pick™
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Pre-Trip Checklist

Flights

Purchase airplane tickets.

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Pre-Trip Checklist

Transportation & Lodging

Arrange transportation and lodging - see more on the Travel tab.

Guide Pick™
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Pre-Trip Checklist

Equipment

Reserve rental equipment.

Guide Pick™
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Pre-Trip Checklist

Fitness

Be in the best shape of your life!

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Technical Gear

Trekking Poles

We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

Sled Duffel Bag

A lightweight 100+ liter duffel to transport gear in your sled. This bag does not need to be waterproof. This can also be used as your second checked bag on your flight to Alaska.

Guide Pick™
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Provided Equipment

Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: tents, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, shovels, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, sleds, and avalanche probes.

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

Each member will have a sled for use during the program. Sleds aid in transporting loads between camps on the lower mountain.

Guide Pick™
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fuel for the mountain

On the Mt. McKinley Prep Course, you will need four mountain lunches. RMI will provide all on-mountain breakfasts and dinners. Your lunch food should be lightweight, calorie-dense, and easy to eat on the move, with a total weight of approximately 4 pounds.

When we get feedback from our Mt. McKinley clients, one of the most common themes is pleasant surprise at how well RMI Guides can cook! On Mt. McKinley, meals are an important community activity - a time for you to discuss the next day's plan, debrief on lessons learned, and just come together as a team. 

Note: If you have dietary restrictions (Gluten Free, Dairy Free, Vegetarian, Vegan, or Food Allergies), please make RMI aware of these and elaborate on your registration. We will accommodate you.

ABOUT YOUR MOUNTAIN MEALS

OVERVIEW

Nutrition while training and nutrition while climbing are two very different things. You may follow a pretty specific nutrition regimen while you are training to aid your desired outcomes, but once it comes to the climb, calories are what count the most. While climbing, you are trying to maximize energy and performance over a short period of time.

Our food priorities when climbing are:

  • a high-calorie intake
  • a variety of flavor profiles (sweet, salty, sour, etc.)
  • durability/packability
  • enjoyment

Caloric requirements will vary widely from climber to climber based on physical size and metabolism. It is important for you to know what your body requires. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite. Bring food you enjoy. If you don't love a food at home, you certainly won't like it on the mountain!

At camp, hot and cold water will be provided for your meals, drinks, and refilling water bottles. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking, or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.

Things to keep in mind as you plan your meals:

  • How much space the food will take in your backpack
  • How well the food will hold up throughout the trip in your backpack
  • How much waste does the food produce

Consider repacking items into smaller Ziploc bags to minimize the space in your pack. Your food will get crammed into your backpack, jostled around, exposed to extreme temperatures, and even sat on (by you, of course!). What holds up better in these conditions, two slices of bread or a bagel? When packing, it is essential to consider the waste you will produce on the climb; after all, you have to carry it off the mountain. We've already mentioned repacking items to minimize space. Repacking items can also eliminate waste!

MOUNTAIN LUNCHES

Mountain lunches, aka snacks, are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb. We typically take rest breaks every hour or so to adjust our clothing layers, eat, and hydrate. Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water at each break. In terms of quantity, aim to bring 1 lb. of climbing food per day. We suggest using snack or sandwich size Ziploc bags to portion out snack food.

The importance of having foods that you genuinely enjoy cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty. Here are some ideas but be sure to see the sample menu and packing list below for more ideas!

  • Cold pizza
  • Trail mix
  • Crackers
  • Bagel sandwich
  • Peanut butter pretzels
  • Cookies
  • Chewy candy
  • Tortilla wraps
  • Chocolate covered pretzels
  • Candy bars
  • Veggies and hummus
  • Chips
  • Apple slices
  • Protein bars

PRO TIP: Feel fancy! Charcuterie (cured meat, cheese, and crackers) makes a great mountain lunch!

BEVERAGES

Staying hydrated on the climb is crucial. You will have access to ample cold water while at camp for drinking and replenishing water bottles. When you are climbing, you will want to ration how much water you drink at each rest break to ensure you have water throughout the entirety of your climb. You can expect breaks to occur approximately every hour or so of climbing.

Just as with food, it is important to have a variety of things to drink that excite your taste buds. You may love water, but it may not sound good at 10,000'! Drink mixes such as Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Liquid IV, Nuun, etc., are great for flavor. Hot beverage options are also an important component to consider while at camp. Instant coffee, tea, cocoa, and cider are great ways to warm up in the evening before bed, when you wake up for your alpine start on summit day, and to recharge once back at camp. RMI will provide hot cocoa mix and assorted teas (caffeinated and decaffeinated).

PRO TIP: Skip the water bladder and practice rationing your water while training.

SAMPLE MOUNTAIN LUNCH MENU

(4 mountain lunches total, ~2–3 lb combined)

Aim for food you can eat with gloves on, in the cold, and without extended stops.

MOUNTAIN LUNCH #1

  • Bagel sandwich with salami, cheese, & mustard
  • Apple slices
  • Oreos
  • Protein bar

MOUNTAIN LUNCH #2

  • Cold pizza
  • Sour Patch Kids
  • Hummus & crackers
  • Trail mix
  • Peanut butter pretzels
  • Candy bar
  • Goldfish
  • Chips

MOUNTAIN LUNCH #3

  • Salami, cheese, crackers, or bagel (sandwich)
  • Sour Patch Kids
  • Protein bar
  • Hummus & crackers
  • Trail mix
  • Chips
  • Peanut butter pretzels
  • Candy bar
  • Goldfish
  • Apple slices

MOUNTAIN LUNCH #4

  • Salami, cheese, crackers, or bagel (sandwich)
  • Protein bar
  • Energy gel or chews
  • M&Ms
  • Small cookies
  • Peanut butter cups
  • Candy bar
  • Cliff Bar
  • Granola Bar

SAMPLE BEVERAGE MENU

  • Drink Mixes (Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Liquid IV, and Nuun are great options for flavor variety)
  • Instant Coffee (Starbucks Via is a great option for being pre-portioned)
  • Instant Cider
  • Instant Cocoa (RMI provides)
  • Assorted Tea (RMI provides)

BREAKFAST AND DINNER NOTES

  • Mountain breakfasts and dinners are provided as listed in the itinerary.
  • Expect simple, calorie-focused meals designed to support recovery and hydration.
  • Restaurant meals while in towns are on your own.

FINAL NOTES

Altitude often changes appetite. Bring food you know you can eat when tired, cold, or not very hungry. Variety helps, but simplicity wins. If you are unsure about food choices or quantities, this is an excellent topic to review during your gear check.

Travel, culture, & logistics

This page covers the practical details you’ll want to review before your trip, including travel logistics, entry requirements, local considerations, and required policies. Taking time to understand these details ahead of departure helps ensure a smoother experience once you’re on the ground and focused on the climb.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

TRAVEL CONSULTANT

RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide comprehensive travel support. We have been working with Erin for many years. As an independent agent of the Travel Society, she has booked countless miles for adventure travelers across the globe and is extremely knowledgeable about the travel needs of our programs. Please call (208) 788-2870 or send email to [email protected].

GETTING THERE

Rainier BaseCamp is located in Ashford, WA, and is the home of RMI Expeditions, Whittaker Mountaineering, Whittaker's Bunkhouse, and BaseCamp Bar and Grill. Ashford is located 75 miles from the Sea-Tac Airport.

Note: Every air traveler 18 years of age and older needs a REAL ID compliant driver’s license, state-issued enhanced driver’s license, or another acceptable form of ID to fly within the United States.

Most climbers traveling to Ashford will want to rent a car from the airport. This is the most convenient and reliable way to get here.

Ride Share: If you are interested in sharing a ride, please go to your RMI Account, then to "Discussion Board" and "Ride Share" to post your information.

Seattle Airport Car Service

ENTRY INTO MT. RAINIER NATIONAL PARK

All our Mt. Rainier programs begin at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford. All Mt. Rainier climbs, seminars, and schools include transportation and park entry for our climbers from Rainier BaseCamp to Paradise or to the White River Entrance.

ASHFORD AREA ACCOMMODATIONS

Accommodations for the first night of your program are included in the program fee. You'll be staying in the "bunkhouse" at Whittaker's Motel and Historic Bunkhouse, a shared room with bunk beds and a shared bathroom. If you would like to book your own accommodations, or need a place to stay before or after the program, we recommend the below accommodations:

You may also go to VisitRainier.com to search for accommodations in the Ashford Area.

ADDITIONAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

WEATHER

For updated Mt. Rainier weather forecasts, click here. Please click on the links below to see the Mt. Rainier webcams:

TIPPING

Our guides put considerable effort into ensuring your safety and success on the mountain. If you had a positive experience, leaving a gratuity is a wonderful gesture to show your appreciation. The amount is up to you and should reflect how much you enjoyed the service. Typically, tips for excellent service range from 10% to 15% of the program cost. Guides can accept gratuities in cash, Venmo, or by check. If you prefer, you can also pay tips using a credit card through the RMI Office.

FACTS

Mt Rainier became the nation's fifth National Park in 1899, some twenty-nine years after it was first climbed. Mt. Rainier National Park encompasses 235,625 acres and is 97% wilderness and 3% National Historic Landmark District. At 14,410', Mt. Rainier is the most prominent peak in the Cascade Range. It is an active volcano; its most recent confirmed eruptive activity was in the 1890s.

Guided mountaineering activity has taken place since the late 1800s, and The Mountain is still considered a prime training ground for climbing in Alaska, South America, and the Himalayas.  With more than 20 active glaciers encompassing some 36 square miles of ice, Rainier boasts the largest ice cover of any peak in the lower 48 United States.  Its weather can be deceptively gentle or as fierce as encountered on any high mountain anywhere in the world.  There is a wealth of information on the Mt. Rainier National Park website. We encourage you to enhance your enjoyment of the climb with some fun facts about the Park and the history of climbing there.

RESOURCES

RECOMMENDED READING

  • The Challenge of Rainier, by Dee Molenaar
  • Mt. Rainier - A Climbing Guide, by Mike Gauthier
  • Mt. Rainier: The Story Behind the Scenery, by Ray Snow
  • National Geographic Trails Illustrated MRNP topo map

Expedition Policies

The following policies are applicable for this expedition.

Included

  • RMI guide instruction from experienced guides focused on expedition systems, cold-weather travel, and McKinley preparation
  • All Mt. Rainier National Park fees
  • Transportation from Rainier BaseCamp to the training area
  • First night's lodging in the bunkhouse at Whittaker's Motel and Historic Bunkhouse (shared room)
  • On-mountain breakfasts and dinners
  • Group instructional and expedition equipment used during the course

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure.

Not Included

  • Travel to and from Ashford, WA
  • Travel insurance and medical evacuation insurance
  • Accommodations before and after the program
  • Mountain lunches (climbers supply their own)
  • Personal gear and equipment
  • Customary guide gratuities (10–15% of program cost recommended)
  • Personal expenses

PAYMENTS

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit of $600 per person is required to secure your reservation.

  • Deposits can be paid using MasterCard*, Visa*, American Express*, e-check/ACH, U.S. bank check, or wire transfer**.

Balance Payments: The remaining balance is due 120 days before your program's start date.

  • Balance payments can be made via MasterCard*, Visa*, American Express*, e-check/ACH, U.S. bank check, or wire transfer**.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
  • Full payment is required when registering within 120 days of the program start date.

*Note: A 3% surcharge applies to all credit/debit card transactions. 

**Wire transfers must include all fees charged by your bank. The amount received by our bank must match the deposit amount.

CANCELLATION

The $600 deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

  • Cancellations must be submitted in writing. Once received, the following policy applies:
    • Cancellations made 120 or more days before the program start date will forfeit the $600 deposit.
    • Cancellations made less than 120 days before the program start date will not receive refunds or credits.

We do not offer refunds. Please remember this before registering for this program. Due to the time-sensitive nature of this program, no exceptions will be made to the cancellation policy.

CANCELLATION INSURANCE

We highly recommend travel insurance for this trip. Please see our Travel Tab for details.

CHANGE OF DATE

Date changes are subject to availability and can only be applied to the current climbing season. Changes must be requested at least 90 days before the departure date and will incur a $200 fee per person. No date changes are allowed within 90 days of departure.

Risk Management Policy

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

PARTICIPANT RESPONSIBILITIES

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team effort. Each participant shares responsibility for the safety and success of the group. Therefore, we ask that each participant:

  • Be physically and mentally fit for the program.
  • Review and understand all provided program information.
  • Notify the RMI Office of any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped according to the Equipment List.
  • Act considerately towards all team members.
  • Minimize environmental impact by following Leave No Trace practices.
  • Honestly and accurately describe your fitness, health, skills, abilities, and equipment to the guide staff.
  • Communicate any changes in medications or health to the guide staff during the program.
  • Follow the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continuously assess your fitness, health, skills, and abilities in relation to the program’s demands.

RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from the program or to send them to a lower altitude if the guide staff determines, at their discretion, that the participant is not adequately prepared or capable of participating safely. This decision may be based on physical, technical, or psychological factors, or any other reason that might affect the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. If removed, the participant will not receive refunds or credits and will be responsible for all additional costs associated with early departure, including evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, and meals.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age Requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media.

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes.

Here are the key points:

  1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
  2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
  3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
  4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them.
  5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
  6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
  7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

GENERAL POLICIES

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to, increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same- gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

Frequently Asked Questions

The McKinley Prep Course raises a different set of questions than a summit climb or a general skills course. This program is focused on expedition systems, cold-weather travel, and realistic preparation for Mount McKinley rather than achieving a specific objective on Mount Rainier. The answers below are intended to clarify how the course works, what it does and does not prepare you for, and how to decide if this is the right step in your progression.

Program Focus and Structure

Is this a summit climb of Mount Rainier?

No. The McKinley Prep Course does not include a summit attempt of Mount Rainier. The program is intentionally structured around expedition training rather than a single objective. Time is spent practicing systems such as sled hauling, glacier travel, camp management, and crevasse rescue in winter conditions.

What is the primary goal of this course?

The goal is to prepare climbers for the realities of a Mount McKinley expedition. This includes understanding how systems work together over multiple days, identifying gaps in gear or preparation, and building confidence operating in cold, glaciated terrain. The course is about readiness, not guarantees.

How much time is spent training versus moving camp?

Most days combine structured instruction with practical application in the field. Climbers should expect a balance of hands-on training, system repetition, and real expedition-style movement rather than continuous travel toward a summit.

Fitness and Readiness

How fit do I need to be for the McKinley Prep Course?

Participants should arrive in excellent physical condition and prepared for sustained effort in winter conditions. This includes hauling sleds, carrying a 40–50 lb pack, and spending long days outside in cold temperatures. While altitude is lower than McKinley, the physical and mental demands are still significant.

Do I need prior crevasse rescue or avalanche training?

No. Previous crevasse rescue or avalanche education is not required. These skills are taught and practiced during the course as part of the curriculum, with an emphasis on repetition and practical application.

Is this course appropriate if I am not planning to climb Mount McKinley?

While the course is designed specifically for McKinley preparation, the skills taught are broadly applicable to cold-weather, glacier-based expeditions. Climbers preparing for other large or remote objectives may also find the course valuable, provided they are seeking expedition systems training rather than a summit climb.

Gear and Systems

Will I use all of my expedition gear during the course?

Not every item will be used every day, but climbers should arrive with their full required equipment. One of the core benefits of the seminar is testing gear systems in cold, realistic conditions to identify issues before an expedition.

Will we practice sled hauling and load management?

Yes. Sled rigging, hauling techniques, and load management are central components of the course and are practiced repeatedly throughout the program.

Decision-Making and Risk Management

How are decisions made during the course?

Guides continuously assess weather, snow conditions, and group dynamics. Daily objectives and training locations are selected to support learning while maintaining appropriate margins. Decision-making is deliberate and conservative, mirroring how RMI manages real expeditions.

Who makes the final decisions on the mountain?

The guide team makes all final decisions, with participant wellbeing and the integrity of the learning environment as the priority.

Progression and Preparation

Does this course qualify me to climb Mount McKinley?

This course fulfills the technical training requirement for RMI’s Mount McKinley expeditions. It does not fulfill the requirement for a long, high-altitude summit climb. That experience must be completed separately.

Should I take this course before or after a Mount Rainier summit climb?

Either sequence can work. Some climbers complete a Rainier summit climb first to build confidence at altitude, while others take this course first to strengthen systems and preparation. The right order depends on your experience and goals.

Safety and Support

What happens if weather or conditions limit training?

Winter conditions can be unpredictable. Guides adapt training objectives to match conditions, focusing on skills and systems that can be practiced safely. Flexibility is an expected part of the course.

What happens if someone is injured or becomes ill?

Guides are trained in remote medicine and technical rescue and carry appropriate medical and communication equipment. Responses depend on the situation and conditions and may include descent or evacuation if necessary.

Reviews

Climbers rated RMI with an average of 5 stars across 0 ratings

Climber reviews of the McKinley Prep Course frequently emphasize the value of training in realistic winter conditions and the clarity it brings to expedition preparation. Participants often note how working through sled hauling, camp systems, and cold-weather routines over multiple days reveals both strengths and gaps in their preparation. For many, the course stands out as a grounding experience that replaces uncertainty with practical understanding before committing to a Mount McKinley expedition.

May 6, 2026

Mt. McKinley Prep Course

We had a great team of climbers and two great guides. The team worked well together and really bonded. I really enjoyed learning new concepts: sled travel, avalanche rescue, and fixed line travel.

Craig K

April 12, 2026

Mt. McKinley Prep Course

Experienced and professional guides. Solid curriculum. Beautiful location. RMI provided gear (tents) was in excellent condition.

Peter N

April 2, 2026

Mt. McKinley Prep Course

The guides were awesome--very enthusiastic, dedicated, knowledgeable, and friendly. I felt they were invested in my well-being and climbing development. They were skilled and patient teachers. I also enjoyed the food! The meals were great, and it relieved a lot of stress knowing I didn't have to cook all my meals.

Benjamin L

April 1, 2026

Mt. McKinley Prep Course

Guide teaching not just what and how to do things but also what the Denali experience will be like.

Kathleen C

April 1, 2026

Mt. McKinley Prep Course

The willingness of the guides to share their experience and help us continue to refine and learn mountain skills. They fostered a safe and open team dynamic.

Tina C

February 28, 2025

Mt. McKinley Prep Course

It was such a unique experience to winter camp on Rainier, especially being the only 4 humans on the mountain! There was great camaraderie with our group and the guides were extremely knowledgeable and inspirational.

Sarah G