50+ Liter Backpack
A technical climbing pack large enough to carry personal gear, layers, food, water, and a share of group equipment. You will not need a separate summit pack.
4 Days
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Mountaineering
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$1,980
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$400
Deposit
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Advanced
A four-day alpine climb of Forbidden Peak's West Ridge, combining moderate glacier travel with exposed ridge climbing on one of North America's fifty classic climbs.
Day-by-day program overview.
Fitness, experience, and preparation.
Gear requirements for this program.
Meals and nutrition on the mountain.
Getting there and local logistics.
Booking, cancellations, and requirements.
Common questions, direct answers.
What climbers are saying.
The West Ridge of Forbidden is recognized as one of the Fifty Classic Climbs in North America, offering a sustained alpine line with varied terrain and committing exposure.
The route involves moderate snow and ice in the West Ridge Couloir followed by exposed 5th class ridge climbing with dramatic positions and sustained movement.
Establish base camp in Boston Basin, a spectacular cirque surrounded by North Cascades spires, with a full day of instruction and review before the summit attempt.
As with other trips, I am extremely grateful for the chance to spend time in a beautiful, challenging environment with a guide like Eric. This trip was my first experience with significant exposure. I found it to be intense and mentally taxing beyond the physical demands--exactly the sort of thing that draws me to the mountains.
Jeremy D.
Forbidden Peak's West Ridge is a four-day alpine climb that delivers everything serious mountaineers seek in a North Cascades objective. The route combines moderate glacier travel, steep snow and ice in an exposed couloir, and sustained rock climbing along an airy ridge crest with massive exposure on both sides. This is not an introductory climb. The West Ridge demands confident movement on varied terrain, comfort with exposure, and the technical competence to perform consistently when positions become committing and consequences are real.
Base camp sits in Boston Basin, a stunning cirque surrounded by North Cascades granite spires and glaciated peaks. After establishing camp, climbers spend a full day on instruction and review, which may include an ascent of a nearby objective like Sharkfin Tower or Sahale Peak to dial in systems and assess readiness. The West Ridge itself begins with glacier approach and steepening snow before entering the West Ridge Couloir—40 to 50 degrees of sustained snow and ice climbing. At the top of the couloir, climbers cache glacier gear, transition to rock shoes, and move along the exposed ridge crest with 5th class climbing (5.0 to 5.6) in spectacular positions all the way to the summit.
This climb is well-suited for experienced alpine climbers ready for committing ridge terrain or technical mountaineers seeking a classic North Cascades objective that rewards competence, composure, and the ability to move confidently in exposed alpine environments.
RMI guides have been climbing the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak for decades, and that familiarity shows in how the program operates on technical, committing terrain. Guides know the approach through Boston Basin, the character of the West Ridge Couloir across different snow conditions, and how exposure and consequence shift as climbers move along the ridge crest. This route demands sound judgment around weather, snow stability, rock conditions, and team readiness, and RMI's depth of experience on North Cascades alpine rock translates directly into efficient systems, confident movement, and the ability to assess conditions and make real-time decisions when terrain becomes committing.
The West Ridge of Forbidden requires climbers to perform competently across multiple disciplines: glacier travel, steep snow and ice, exposed rock climbing, and technical transitions, often in the same day. RMI guides balance instruction, pacing, and risk management throughout the climb, continuously assessing conditions and team performance to determine appropriate objectives and timing. Every guide holds Wilderness First Responder and technical rescue certification; lead guides hold U.S. Level 2 avalanche certification. Our guides carry comprehensive communication and rescue equipment on every program. On exposed ridge terrain with limited retreat options, these systems and the judgment to apply them matter significantly.
RMI's approach to this climb reflects a genuine respect for what the West Ridge demands and what it offers. Guides bring experience, composure, and enthusiasm for helping climbers succeed on classic alpine objectives where technical competence and mental readiness are equally important. That perspective shapes how the program is led, how instruction is delivered, and how climbers are supported on one of the North Cascades' most respected routes.
To learn more about RMI's history in the North Cascades and how our programs are structured, visit our About page.
Hike through forested terrain to establish base camp in Boston Basin, spend a full day on training and skills review with a possible ascent of a nearby objective, then attempt the West Ridge via glacier approach, steep couloir climbing, and exposed ridge traversing to the summit. After the climb, descend to camp and hike out the following morning.
Marblemount, WA
8,815' / 2,687 m
4 Days
2
1
12+ Hours
The group meets at 8:00 a.m. at the Marblemount Ranger Station in the North Cascades. Please see our Travel Details document for driving directions and carpool opportunities. Your RMI guides will meet you at the ranger station for introductions, group gear distribution and personal gear check.
From Marblemount we follow the Cascade River Road to the trailhead. During our hike in to Boston Basin we gain approximately 3,000'. The hike through the forest and up into the alpine meadows takes half a day and gets us into camp at 6,200' in time for an early dinner.
Our training offers participants an overview of various techniques which meet the challenges set forth by the West Ridge of Forbidden. The snowfields and rock above camp serve as our training ground. As part of our training day we may make an attempt on Sharkfin Tower or another moderate local objective. Our training will focus on movement skills, belaying and lowering techniques, glacier travel and self care skills.
Our first priority is the safety of all team members. During the training you will be asked to demonstrate that your fitness will allow you to climb safely, and that you are able to perform the climbing skills proficiently. We will continue to assess each team member throughout the course of the training and the climb.
After the day of skills training we return to camp where we make our final summit preparations, enjoy dinner, and go to bed early for the next day's climb.
The summit ascent - Our day begins with a pre-dawn alpine start to give us ample time for this full day of climbing. The route climbs a small glacier below the South Face, then 40- to 50-degree snow and ice in the West Ridge Couloir, and finally mid-fifth class rock on the ridge above. At the top of the couloir we cache our glacier gear for the enjoyable mid-fifth class rock climbing along the exposed crest to the summit. From the top the full majesty of the North Cascades is revealed with Mt. Baker to the northwest and views south all the way to Mt. Rainier.
After spending some time on top to enjoy the views and take photos, we begin our descent. We rappel and down climb the ridge, make our way back down the couloir, and then into camp for an early dinner and to watch the sun go down over the peaks to the west.
On our last morning we rise early for breakfast, break camp and take approximately two hours for the hike back down to the trailhead. The trip concludes with a celebratory lunch in Marblemount. Those with a plane to catch should plan for an arrival in Seattle around mid-afternoon.
Excellent physical condition required for sustained technical climbing over a long summit day with significant exposure and complex terrain.
Working familiarity with cramponing, ice axe use, rope travel, and crevasse rescue systems is required. Comfort on steep snow and ice slopes (40-50 degrees) and exposed terrain is essential.
Forbidden Peak's summit is 8,815', so altitude is not the limiting factor on this program. The demands are technical and physical rather than altitude-related.
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is a technically demanding alpine climb that requires both strong preparation and working competence in foundational mountaineering systems. This is not an entry-level objective. The route involves sustained steep snow and ice climbing in the West Ridge Couloir (40-50 degrees), exposed 5th class rock climbing along an airy ridge crest, and technical transitions between disciplines in committing positions. Summit day can exceed 12 hours of sustained effort, and climbers must be capable of performing confidently when terrain becomes exposed and consequences are real.
You should begin training well in advance with the goal of arriving in top physical condition. Training should emphasize uphill endurance with weight, sustained aerobic output, and comfort moving efficiently on steep and exposed terrain for extended periods. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble technical alpine climbing over long days with varied terrain and sustained exposure.
Recommended climbing experiences include:
Your climbing resumé should include:
Items marked with an Asterix (*) are considered mandatory prerequisites for this program.
Mountaineering places sustained demands on your body and your ability to stay composed under effort. Even very fit people find that moving uphill with weight, for long hours, in variable weather is a different kind of challenge than most everyday training.
Preparation matters. Fitness directly affects how well you move, how much you learn, how the team functions, and how enjoyable the experience is overall.
Start early. Begin training well in advance of your program with the goal of arriving rested, resilient, and confident in your capacity for sustained effort.
Train intentionally. Emphasize aerobic endurance, uphill movement, and strength that supports long days on your feet. Core stability, balance, and mobility all play an important role in efficiency and injury prevention.
Train specifically. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the demands of mountaineering: hiking uphill with weight, moving steadily for hours, and recovering well enough to do it again the next day.
Across RMI programs, strong preparation typically means being comfortable with long days of continuous movement, carrying a pack appropriate to the objective, and maintaining focus and decision-making when tired. Technical skills are taught or reviewed as appropriate to each program, but fitness is something you bring with you.
Nothing contributes more to a successful and rewarding experience than arriving well prepared. Plan to be in excellent physical condition and ready for a demanding day in the mountains.
Total Climbing Time
Elevation Gain / Loss
Total Distance
Pack Weight
DAY 1 — Hike to Boston Basin
4+ Hours
Gain = 3,000'
3.5 Miles
45 - 50 lb
DAY 2 — Training
8 Hours
Gain = 1,850' | Loss = 1,850'
2.5 Miles Round Trip
20 - 25 lb
DAY 3 — Summit Climb
12 Hours
Gain = 2,430' | Loss = 2,430'
2.5 Miles Round Trip
20 - 25 lb
DAY 4 — Descent to Trailhead
2 - 3 Hours
Loss = 3,000'
3.5 Miles
40 - 45 lb
Our guides have decades of experience training for alpine objectives, and we've done our best to put together relevant resources to help you with your expedition preparation.
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Before any program begins, RMI works directly with prospective climbers to confirm that everyone joining a team is genuinely prepared for the demands ahead. Depending on the program, this may involve conversations with our office staff, a review of your climbing history, or feedback from guides and other climbers who know your abilities. The goal is straightforward: to ensure that every person on the rope belongs there. We ask that each climber hold themselves to the same standard:
The standards we set exist to protect everyone on the team. RMI holds all climbers accountable to them, and we take seriously our responsibility to build teams of people who are ready to be in the mountains together. RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including evacuation, transportation, lodging, and meals.
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak involves moderate glacier travel, steep snow and ice climbing, and exposed 5th class rock climbing over a long summit day and requires a complete technical alpine mountaineering equipment kit. This gear list reflects decades of guiding experience on North Cascades alpine rock routes and is designed to support varied terrain, technical transitions, multi-day camp systems, and variable mountain conditions.
Every experienced mountaineer will refine their kit over time, but this list represents what RMI expects climbers to bring to the mountain. Not every item may be used during the climb, but all required equipment must be carried and available. The West Ridge demands transitions between glacier gear and rock shoes, and climbers should arrive prepared with equipment appropriate for both steep snow and ice and exposed alpine rock climbing. Conditions, objectives, and risk management needs can change quickly on committing ridge terrain.
Each RMI program includes a required personal equipment list built around the specific terrain, conditions, and objectives of the climb. Every item serves a purpose and supports safety, efficiency, and comfort in the mountains.
Guide Picks™ are examples that meet our performance standards and illustrate the type of gear we recommend. Each year, our partners at Whittaker Mountaineering survey our staff of 70+ guides to get a consensus on the best gear for the job. You do not need to purchase the exact item shown, but any alternative must offer comparable function and durability.
All listed items are required for the gear check. Final adjustments may be recommended by your guide based on conditions and team needs once the expedition begins.
Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.
We recommend a bag rated between 20° and 0° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a 0° F bag.
10- or 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates for general mountaineering and glacier travel. Automatic, semi-automatic, or strap-on attachment depending on boot compatibility. Ensure crampons are compatible with your specific boots before your program.
Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.
We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.
A lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirt in synthetic or merino wool for sun protection and moisture management during active climbing.
One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.
An insulated jacket or softshell for warmth during low-output activity and extended rest breaks. Should fit over baselayers and midlayers, and under a shell.
An expedition-style down parka that extends below the waist with an insulated hood, designed to fit over all other layers. Worn primarily in camp, during rest breaks, and on summit day. Down fill recommended over synthetic.
We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.
Lightweight synthetic or merino wool baselayer bottoms for moisture management and temperature regulation during active climbing.
Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.
Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.
Insulated, full-shank, crampon-compatible leather or synthetic boots designed for general mountaineering. Lighter and more comfortable than double boots but with less insulation for extreme cold.
Lightweight approach shoes or trail runners for hiking on rugged terrain and use as camp shoes. Particularly useful after snowmelt on lower-elevation approaches.
A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.
Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.
Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, basic pain reliever, and personal medications.
You are responsible for providing your own meals and snack food in town and while on your program. See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.
This will be your personal trash bag.
Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.
Disposable or reusable ear plugs for sleeping in shared tent or hut accommodations.
Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.
Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.
A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.
We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, sightseeing and dining.
If Glacier Glasses are not required, regular sunglasses will suffice on this program.
Purchase travel insurance.
Purchase airplane tickets.
Arrange transportation and lodging - see more on the Travel tab.
Reserve rental equipment.
Be in the best shape of your life!
On the Forbidden Peak - West Ridge climb you will need 4 mountain lunches, 3 dinners, and 3 breakfasts while on the mountain.
Nutrition while training and nutrition while climbing are two very different things. You may follow a pretty specific nutrition regimen while you are training to aid your desired outcomes, but once it comes to the climb, calories are what count the most. While climbing, you are trying to maximize energy and performance over a short period of time.
Our food priorities when climbing are:
Caloric requirements will vary widely from climber to climber based on physical size and metabolism. It is important for you to know what your body requires. One of the normal, albeit disconcerting, adjustments to altitude is a slight loss of appetite. Bring food you enjoy. If you don't love a food at home, you certainly won't like it on the mountain!
At camp, hot and cold water will be provided for your meals, drinks, and refilling water bottles. When planning your menu, don't bring any items that require extensive preparation, cooking, or simmering. We are able to provide you with boiling water but do not have the ability to actually cook food items.
Things to keep in mind as you plan your meals:
Consider repacking items into smaller Ziploc bags to minimize the space in your pack. Your food will get crammed into your backpack, jostled around, exposed to extreme temperatures, and even sat on (by you, of course!). What holds up better in these conditions, two slices of bread or a bagel? When packing, it is essential to consider the waste you will produce on the climb; after all, you have to carry it off the mountain. We've already mentioned repacking items to minimize space. Repacking items can also eliminate waste!
Mountain lunches, aka snacks, are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb. We typically take rest breaks every hour or so to adjust our clothing layers, eat, and hydrate. Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water at each break. In terms of quantity, aim to bring 1 lb. of climbing food per day. We suggest using snack or sandwich size Ziploc bags to portion out snack food.
The importance of having foods that you genuinely enjoy cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. To combat the loss of appetite at altitude, we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty. Here are some ideas but be sure to see the sample menu and packing list below for more ideas!
PRO TIP: Feel fancy! Charcuterie (cured meat, cheese, and crackers) makes a great mountain lunch!
Single-serving instant oatmeal, Cream-of-Wheat, or granola make a good main course fare. A variety of granola bars, pastries, fruit, and a hot drink mix of coffee, tea, cocoa, or cider are suggested. Plan on eating a breakfast that tastes good, and you find filling. Here are some ideas but be sure to see the sample menu and packing list below for more ideas!
PRO TIP: Think outside the box. Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches (on bagels) or ramen make great breakfast options!
This meal will give your body the initial fuel it needs during your summit attempt. Spend time considering your options so that you go to bed nourished and ready for the climb ahead of you. Freeze-dried entrees are very convenient mountain dinners. Pay attention to the caloric quantity – it varies from meal to meal. Here are some ideas but be sure to see the sample menu and packing list below for more ideas!
PRO TIP: Have a tasting party of freeze-dried entrees to test them out before your climb.
Staying hydrated on the climb is crucial. You will have access to ample cold water while at camp for drinking and replenishing water bottles. When you are climbing, you will want to ration how much water you drink at each rest break to ensure you have water throughout the entirety of your climb. You can expect breaks to occur approximately every hour or so of climbing.
Just as with food, it is important to have a variety of things to drink that excite your taste buds. You may love water, but it may not sound good at 10,000'! Drink mixes such as Gatorade, Kool-Aid, Liquid IV, Nuun, etc., are great for flavor. Hot beverage options are also an important component to consider while at camp. Instant coffee, tea, cocoa, and cider are great ways to warm up in the evening before bed, when you wake up for your alpine start on summit day, and to recharge once back at camp.
PRO TIP: Skip the water bladder and practice rationing your water while training.
This page covers the practical details you’ll want to review before your trip, including travel logistics, entry requirements, local considerations, and required policies. Taking time to understand these details ahead of departure helps ensure a smoother experience once you’re on the ground and focused on the climb.
Our meeting place is the Marblemount Ranger Station, 7280 Ranger Station Road, Marblemount WA 98267-9755. You are responsible for your own transportation to the program's trailhead.
We meet at 8:00a.m. Most climbers will fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) the evening before the program and rent a car for the 2-1/2 hour drive. The town of Marblemount is approximately 125 miles from SeaTac.
Note: Every air traveler 18 years of age and older needs a REAL ID compliant driver’s license, state-issued enhanced driver’s license, or another acceptable form of ID to fly within the United States.
Ride Share: If you are participating in a climb and are interested in sharing a ride, please post your information in the "Ride Share" forum of your North Cascades Discussion Board by logging into your RMI Account.
You can find lodging or camping at the Glacier Peak Resort and Winery. They offer primitive secluded tent camping by the Skagit River, as well as wifi and basic amenity tent camping on their lawn. Another camping option is Rockport State Park.
Your travel insurance policy should include trip cancellation, trip interruption, travel delay, baggage loss or delay, medical expenses, and evacuation.
Navigating through the different options for travel insurance can be challenging. When purchasing Travel Insurance, here are a few items to consider:
In today’s changing travel environment, it’s important to protect your travel investment. Unforeseen events such as flight delays, baggage loss or even a sudden sickness or injury could impact your travel plans. For your convenience, we offer Travelex Insurance protection plans to help protect you and your travel investment against the unexpected.
For more information on the available plans visit Travelex Insurance Services or contact Travelex Insurance (800) 228-9792 and reference location number 47-0370.
The product descriptions provided here are only brief summaries and may be changed without notice. The full coverage terms and details, including limitations and exclusions, are contained in the insurance policy. Travelex Insurance Services, Inc. CA Agency License #0D10209. Insurance coverages underwritten by individual member companies of Zurich in North America, including Zurich American Insurance Company (NAIC #16535, state of domicile: New York). RETWEB
Harbor Travel Insurance covers the following critical benefits:
Harbor Travel Insurance is powered by Redpoint Resolutions, a medical and travel security risk company. Their team is comprised of special operations veterans, paramedics, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, former intelligence officers, insurance actuaries, and global security experts with dozens of years of experience in theaters around the world. The Redpoint network covers the globe, making them uniquely equipped to provide elite rescue travel insurance – in every sense of the word.
RMI has partnered with Erin Rountree to provide travel planning support. Erin is an independent agent with extensive experience booking travel for adventure programs worldwide and understands the specific needs of RMI expeditions.
Phone: (208) 788-2870
Email: [email protected]
It is your responsibility to ensure that your travel insurance policy provides appropriate coverage for your specific program and activities. Review policy details carefully before purchasing, and confirm coverage well in advance of your departure.
For updated North Cascades weather forecasts, click here.
Our guides put considerable effort into ensuring your safety and success on the mountain. If you had a positive experience, leaving a gratuity is a wonderful gesture to show your appreciation. The amount is up to you and should reflect how much you enjoyed the service. Typically, tips for excellent service range from 10% to 15% of the program cost. Guides can accept gratuities in cash, Venmo, or by check. If you prefer, you can also pay tips using a credit card through the RMI Office.
North Cascades National Park has over 300 glaciers, more than any other park in the lower 48 states. More than half the glaciers in the 48 states are concentrated in this mountainous wilderness region called the North Cascades.
For more facts click here, and for even more click here.
General Information on North Cascades National Park.
The following policies are applicable for this expedition.
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure.
Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit of $400 per person is required to secure your reservation.
Balance Payments: The remaining balance is due 120 days before your program's start date.
*Note: A 3% surcharge applies to all credit/debit card transactions.
**Wire transfers must include all fees charged by your bank. The amount received by our bank must match the deposit amount.
The deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.
We do not offer refunds. Please remember this before registering for this program. Due to the time-sensitive nature of this program, no exceptions will be made to the cancellation policy.
Date changes are subject to availability and can only be applied to the current climbing season. Changes must be requested at least 90 days before the departure date and will incur a $200 fee per person. No date changes are allowed within 90 days of departure.
Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.
You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.
Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:
RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for, or capable of participating in the program, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.
Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.
RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.
Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.
All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.
RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media.
I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes.
Here are the key points:
RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.
Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.
RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to, increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.
We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).
Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.
Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same- gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.
The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak raises different questions than moderate alpine climbs or single-discipline objectives. This is a technical, committing route that demands competence across multiple terrain types—glacier travel, steep snow and ice, and exposed ridge climbing—often within the same day. Success depends on technical readiness, comfort with exposure, and the ability to perform confidently when positions become consequential. The answers below address how this program operates, what the route demands, and what to expect on one of the North Cascades' most respected classic climbs.
The program begins at 8:00 a.m. at the Marblemount Ranger Station in Marblemount, Washington.
You are responsible for your own transportation to the meeting location. The team will carpool from the Marblemount Ranger Station to the trailhead.
The West Ridge of Forbidden Peak is guided at a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio.
You should arrive in excellent physical condition and prepared for sustained technical effort over a long summit day. Day 1 involves a moderate approach with a 45-50 lb pack, Day 2 is a full training day with potential ascent of a nearby objective, and Day 3 is a 12+ hour summit day involving glacier travel, steep snow and ice climbing, and exposed rock climbing. Fitness affects your ability to move efficiently on technical terrain, recover between efforts, and perform confidently when exposure and consequence are real.
Expect to carry 45-50 lbs during the approach on Day 1 and 40-45 lbs on the descent on Day 4. On training and summit days, packs are lighter, typically 20-25 lbs.
Guides closely monitor climbers throughout the program. If someone is struggling, guides may adjust pacing, provide coaching, or modify objectives to maintain appropriate risk management for the team. Because this is a technical, committing climb with exposure and consequence, climbers must arrive with the baseline physical and technical competence required for the route.
While previous rock climbing experience is not formally required, familiarity with belaying, 5th class movement, and climbing on exposed terrain is helpful. The West Ridge involves sustained 5th class climbing (5.0 to 5.6) along an exposed ridge crest. Some climbers find prior rock experience valuable for confidence and efficiency on this section.
Day 2 is a full training day focused on movement skills, belaying and lowering techniques, glacier travel, and self-care systems. Training takes place on snowfields and rock above camp. As part of the training day, guides may lead an ascent of Sharkfin Tower or another moderate nearby objective to assess readiness and dial in systems before the West Ridge attempt.
Boston Basin is a spectacular alpine cirque surrounded by North Cascades granite spires and glaciated peaks. Base camp sits at approximately 6,200 feet in high alpine terrain with dramatic views of the surrounding walls and objectives.
From base camp, climbers approach via a small glacier below Forbidden's South Face, gaining elevation steadily before entering the West Ridge Couloir. The terrain transitions from moderate glacier travel to steeper, more technical climbing as the route progresses.
The West Ridge Couloir is 40 to 50 degrees of sustained snow and ice climbing. The couloir is the technical crux before the ridge and requires confident crampon technique, ice axe placement, and the ability to move efficiently on steep alpine terrain. Conditions in the couloir vary based on snowpack and season.
After exiting the couloir, climbers cache glacier gear and transition to rock shoes for the exposed ridge traverse. The ridge involves sustained 5th class climbing (5.0 to 5.6) along an airy crest with significant exposure on both sides. Movement is spectacular, committing, and requires focus and composure in exposed positions.
The rock climbing ranges from 5.0 to 5.6, which is moderate in grade but becomes more serious due to exposure, position, and alpine context. Climbers move along the ridge crest with massive drop-offs on both sides, and while the moves are manageable, the positions are committing.
Summit day typically exceeds 12 hours of sustained effort from camp to summit and back. The day involves glacier approach, steep couloir climbing, ridge traversing, descent via rappels and down-climbing, and return to camp.
The descent involves rappelling and down-climbing the ridge, reversing the couloir, and descending the glacier back to camp. The descent is technical and requires sustained focus and effort.
The West Ridge is more technical and committing than routes like the Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan or the standard routes on Mt. Baker. It involves steeper sustained climbing, more exposure, and greater consequence. Climbers choosing the West Ridge should be ready for multi-discipline alpine terrain and committed positions.
North Cascades weather is highly variable. Climbers should be prepared for wind, cold temperatures, precipitation, and rapid changes in visibility, even during summer months. Weather significantly impacts conditions in the couloir and on the exposed ridge.
Three main factors generally prevent climbers from reaching the summit: weather, route conditions, and individual technical competence and fitness.
Weather
Wind, precipitation, visibility, and temperature affect the ability to climb while maintaining an appropriate margin of security. Conditions on the exposed ridge can deteriorate quickly, and guides may delay, turn around, or adjust objectives if weather becomes limiting.
Route Conditions
Guides continually assess snow stability in the couloir, rock conditions on the ridge, and overall route hazards. While there is often a way to the top, conditions may not always support a guided ascent with an acceptable margin of risk.
Technical Competence and Fitness
Technical skill and physical readiness are factors climbers have the most control over. This route rewards competence on steep snow, comfort with exposure, and sustained performance over a long day. Improving fitness and refining technical skills are the most effective ways to increase your chances of a successful summit attempt.
Guides continuously assess weather, route conditions, and team performance. Decisions are based on disciplined risk management and maintaining appropriate margins for the entire group. On committing ridge terrain with limited retreat options, decision-making is conservative and deliberate.
The guide team makes all final decisions on the mountain, with climber security and long-term success as the priority.
Guides are trained in remote medicine and rescue techniques and carry medical and communication equipment. Responses vary based on severity and conditions and may include descent or evacuation if necessary. Evacuation from exposed ridge terrain or the couloir presents additional complexity and timing considerations.
Guides carry comprehensive medical kits and radio communication equipment appropriate for remote alpine terrain to support emergency response and coordination.
Climbers rated RMI with an average of 5 stars across 0 ratings
Climber reviews of the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak consistently highlight the quality and variety of terrain, the spectacular position and exposure of the ridge traverse, and the reward of completing one of North America's classic alpine climbs. For many climbers, this program stands out as a defining North Cascades objective that demands technical competence, composure in exposed positions, and the ability to perform confidently across multiple disciplines in committing alpine terrain.
August 12, 2026
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
I love the Forbidden Peak climb. It was challenging, beautiful, and I loved the smaller group size.
Inger A
August 12, 2026
I love the Forbidden Peak climb. It was challenging, beautiful, and I loved the smaller group size.
Additional Comments
I think the equipment list needs to be updated, I would have packed my own bear canister if I had of known they were required (it would also have changed what food I packed as I had to leave some behind that wouldn't fit in the canister). Approach/climbing shoes were also listed as "optional" and I did pretty well with what I had, but a second time around would have brought shoes for climbing. I wasn't expecting 70-80% of the climb to be vertical rock (as opposed to trail hiking and snow travel). The email correspondences seemed very generic and not extremely helpful. It would have been nice to have a personal message from the guide(s) a week out with specific conditions and/or contact information to ask questions.
Additional Comments
The trip exceeded my expectations. I thought the group size was good (4 customers) although 2 rope teams on vertical rock did seem to move at a slower pace. The guides were amazing!! They are so professional and friendly. The four days went super fast. I would LOVE to see more trips offered in the North Cascades -- maybe a multi-day climb like the Ptarmigan Traverse or another combo peak pairing.
What needs improvement?
Review and update equipment lists. Send condition-specific updates (e.g. Weather forcasted lows are 40 degrees overnight, ect).
August 19, 2023
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Guides and the climbing.
Brian V
August 19, 2023
Guides and the climbing.
Additional Comments
Excellent lead guide.
Additional Comments
Henry’s email about conditions and changes to the gear list a couple days prior was super helpful. Website should be updated accordingly.
Additional Comments
Enjoyed 3 day itinerary. Glad we didn’t have 4th day.
What did you enjoy most?
Guides and the climbing.
What needs improvement?
Wish the north cascade trips were longer (5-8 days) and you could do multiple peaks. Was a bummer not to do Sahale when we were so close and easily could have done it and hiked out same day.
August 14, 2023
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Being able to bag multiple peaks was a treat. Very grateful for this.
Joshua M
August 14, 2023
Being able to bag multiple peaks was a treat. Very grateful for this.
Additional Comments
Dustin is my favorite guide so far with RMI. Everything was smooth and his sense of humor is spot on. I may be biased as a fellow millennial, but all well. Dustin is leading a Shuksan trip that my wife is part of next weekend and I'm very happy Dustin is guiding her and her coworker up Shuksan. My wife's coworker has a memorable laugh, so I'm already laughing at Dustin having to deal with it for several days! lol
What did you enjoy most?
Being able to bag multiple peaks was a treat. Very grateful for this.
What needs improvement?
No suggestions.
August 13, 2023
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Great team, everyone was kind and supportive.
Adrienne S
August 13, 2023
Great team, everyone was kind and supportive.
Additional Comments
Dustin was fantastic. He was personable and extremely knowledgeable, inspiring confidence the entire time. He knew how to balance the seriousness of the activity with levity, making him a great person with whom to spend days in the wilderness.
What did you enjoy most?
Great team, everyone was kind and supportive.
July 16, 2023
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Thrilled the guides committed to a 16 hour day so the team could summit. That's above and beyond my expectations.
David S
July 16, 2023
Thrilled the guides committed to a 16 hour day so the team could summit. That's above and beyond my expectations.
Additional Comments
Camelback style water bladder should be optional for Forbidden. Easy access to water for a guy that sweats a lot would have been nice.
Additional Comments
Make it clear the skills day is a pretty much a full day of alpine climbing. Also lay out the break schedule and estimate of how long to expect climbing each day. I could have acclimated a bit to not having hydration.
What did you enjoy most?
Thrilled the guides committed to a 16 hour day so the team could summit. That's above and beyond my expectations.
What needs improvement?
I would have liked to understand the climbing system used before the trip. I was clueless how you guide four people with two guides and move with any efficiency. Two guys on one end of the rope is not my idea of fun. Luckily I ended up on a rope alone but had I been behind the anticipated partner I would not have good things to say. I would have opted for a private guide had I known in advance. I also question the safety of moving as a roped team on rock with a 275- 300lb person. Had the dude fell I'm pretty sure he takes me and Henry with him on a bone grinding fall. I understand the idea of catching a fall.that way but my brain balks at if it works in practice especially with a really heavy climber.
August 11, 2022
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Pushing myself beyond my limits and gaining confidence on rock and snow. Building a more robust mental awareness while climbing peaks with a good amount of vertical exposure.
John S
August 11, 2022
Pushing myself beyond my limits and gaining confidence on rock and snow. Building a more robust mental awareness while climbing peaks with a good amount of vertical exposure.
What did you enjoy most?
Pushing myself beyond my limits and gaining confidence on rock and snow. Building a more robust mental awareness while climbing peaks with a good amount of vertical exposure.
What needs improvement?
Probably a little more detail around equipment use and when it is intended to be worn while climbing ie. types of backpacks vs. climbing packs, etc.
July 24, 2022
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
For this trip, I loved how we made it what we wanted. In this case, we felt we could push it a bit, and we did without being reckless.
Ben D
July 24, 2022
For this trip, I loved how we made it what we wanted. In this case, we felt we could push it a bit, and we did without being reckless.
Additional Comments
Dom is the man. He has safety top of mind at every point but is not so serious that he acts robotic. You have an amazing person on your team in Dom. Take care of him. I look forward to climbing with Dom again, and I will also recommend anyone that asks to him.
Additional Comments
I appreciate the thoroughness.
What did you enjoy most?
For this trip, I loved how we made it what we wanted. In this case, we felt we could push it a bit, and we did without being reckless.
What needs improvement?
-
August 19, 2018
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Being my first trip to the Boston Basin, I didn't know exactly what to expect - but the setting and the climb up Forbidden is sublime. The options available in the basin for climbing are many and it's a fantastic place to send clients. Eric made the experience of this great place unforgettable and I can't wait to get back.
Lucas K
August 19, 2018
Being my first trip to the Boston Basin, I didn't know exactly what to expect - but the setting and the climb up Forbidden is sublime. The options available in the basin for climbing are many and it's a fantastic place to send clients. Eric made the experience of this great place unforgettable and I can't wait to get back.
Additional Comments
Eric is a fantastic guide. He did an excellent job going over and teaching the required skills for the climb. He was a great leader and it was clear that safety was his top priority. It was a 1:1 trip which can present its own challenges for any guide / client but it was a pleasure being in the mountains with him the last few days.
What did you enjoy most?
Being my first trip to the Boston Basin, I didn't know exactly what to expect - but the setting and the climb up Forbidden is sublime. The options available in the basin for climbing are many and it's a fantastic place to send clients. Eric made the experience of this great place unforgettable and I can't wait to get back.
What needs improvement?
Nothing to report, everything was great as usual which is why I keep coming back.
September 8, 2015
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
As with other trips, I am extremely grateful for the chance to spend time in a beautiful, challenging environment with a guide like Eric. This trip was my first experience with significant exposure. I found it to be intense and mentally taxing beyond the physical demands--exactly the sort of thing that draws me to the mountains.
Jeremy D
September 8, 2015
As with other trips, I am extremely grateful for the chance to spend time in a beautiful, challenging environment with a guide like Eric. This trip was my first experience with significant exposure. I found it to be intense and mentally taxing beyond the physical demands--exactly the sort of thing that draws me to the mountains.
Additional Comments
I mentioned this in my last evaluation but again want to note that the equipment list needs work. I value the opinion of the guides regarding equipment. There appear to be some inconsistencies between guide choices and the recommended equipment. Also, there are some broken links between example gear and the Whittaker Mountaineering store web site. In some cases, when you click a link, the Whittaker home page shows up rather than the specific item.
Additional Comments
Transportation item not applicable to this trip.
What did you enjoy most?
As with other trips, I am extremely grateful for the chance to spend time in a beautiful, challenging environment with a guide like Eric. This trip was my first experience with significant exposure. I found it to be intense and mentally taxing beyond the physical demands--exactly the sort of thing that draws me to the mountains.
What needs improvement?
The equipment list is a minor thing. Hard to think of anything major. Keep up the good work. Throw a party for the guides.
August 16, 2014
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
I enjoyed having the flexibility to change the schedule with it being a private climb.
Augie L
August 16, 2014
I enjoyed having the flexibility to change the schedule with it being a private climb.
What did you enjoy most?
I enjoyed having the flexibility to change the schedule with it being a private climb.
July 28, 2014
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
Great lead guide and destination/itinerary
Meredith B
July 28, 2014
Great lead guide and destination/itinerary
Additional Comments
The gear list changed between the time of booking and the trip which confused some of the clients. For this climb, it seems approach shoes were favorable to rock shoes for climbing the ridge. A small bullet/summit pack would also be useful. Leon reached out to all of the clients before the trip which helped.
What did you enjoy most?
Great lead guide and destination/itinerary
July 18, 2014
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
The diversity of the terrain on both Forbidden and SharkFinn were amazing. Definitely pushed my limits. Both the guides were great! They both were super encouraging and communicated effectively. Additionally, on the summit day there were several situations that could have been dangerous, but the guides were calm and confidently able to improvise and mitigate the risks. I was very impressed with their ability to adapt to the situation so quickly and easily to avoid some huge risks on the mountain.
Jeffrey P
July 18, 2014
The diversity of the terrain on both Forbidden and SharkFinn were amazing. Definitely pushed my limits. Both the guides were great! They both were super encouraging and communicated effectively. Additionally, on the summit day there were several situations that could have been dangerous, but the guides were calm and confidently able to improvise and mitigate the risks. I was very impressed with their ability to adapt to the situation so quickly and easily to avoid some huge risks on the mountain.
Additional Comments
The equipement list could be enhanced to emphasize several of the more optional gear such as: how important approach shoes are, potentially bringing a camel back...
Additional Comments
Our training day before the summit climb ended up being 14 hours long. We weren't well prepared with water or food for that long of a day considering the itinerary said 8. It was difficult to recover for the early and long summit day the next day.
What did you enjoy most?
The diversity of the terrain on both Forbidden and SharkFinn were amazing. Definitely pushed my limits. Both the guides were great! They both were super encouraging and communicated effectively. Additionally, on the summit day there were several situations that could have been dangerous, but the guides were calm and confidently able to improvise and mitigate the risks. I was very impressed with their ability to adapt to the situation so quickly and easily to avoid some huge risks on the mountain.
What needs improvement?
See comments about gear list and training day above.
Sorry! there are no available dates that meet your current criteria
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Additional Comments
Tom was so great! Very knowledgable about the skills and the surrounding area. He was extremely methodical and comprehensive in his instructions and safety precautions. I felt very safe throughout the climb and came away with a better understanding of the mountains.