Avery Stolte

Aconcagua pierces the sky above the rest of the Andes at 22,841 feet, the highest point in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres and one of the Seven Summits. It is a mountain that earns every foot of its elevation: the altitude is relentless, the weather is unpredictable, and the approach is a three-day trek through the winding Vacas Valley that gradually introduces climbers to the scale of what lies ahead. By the time Base Camp comes into view, the mountain has already made an impression.

RMI climbs the Guanacos Variation on Aconcagua's eastern side, a quieter and more aesthetic route that sees far fewer climbers than the standard approach. Three successive camps are established above Base Camp, navigating the mountain's sprawling rock moraines and towering snow penitentes on the way to high camp at 19,600 feet. The itinerary is built with acclimatization days and contingency time at each stage, because on a mountain of this altitude, patience and preparation determine outcomes more than anything else.

What separates this expedition from a standard high-altitude trek is the level of support RMI and Grajales Expeditions bring to the mountain. Fresh food and dining tents are maintained at Base Camp, medical staff are stationed on the mountain, and every logistical detail from airport transfers in Mendoza to equipment carried from the US is handled before climbers ever set foot on the glacier. The summit of Aconcagua is a serious objective. The experience of getting there should not feel like one.

At 20,310 feet, Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America and one of the most serious high-altitude objectives on the planet. The West Buttress is the standard route to the summit, and while it involves no technical rock or vertical ice climbing, that framing undersells the challenge. Miles of glaciated terrain, extreme cold, sustained altitude above 14,000 feet, and weather that can pin a team for days at a stretch are what define this climb. Above 15,000 feet the route steepens considerably, with fixed ropes on the most exposed sections. This is an expedition in every meaningful sense of the word.

Unlike most guide services operating on Mt. McKinley, RMI does not set a fixed end date for this program. The schedule moves with the mountain: conditions, acclimatization progress, and team readiness determine when the team pushes higher and when it waits. That flexibility is not a convenience; it is the approach that gives climbers the best realistic chance at the summit. Guides monitor performance and altitude response throughout, adjusting pace and plans as the situation demands rather than against an arbitrary calendar.

The West Buttress Expedition is a major commitment of time, fitness, and preparation. Climbers should expect to be on the mountain for three weeks or more and should arrive ready for the full weight of that. The mountain sets the terms here, and the program is built around accepting that.