Jackson Breen

Ecuador sits at the intersection of the Andes, the Amazon, and the equator, and the result is one of the most extraordinary mountain environments on earth. The Avenue of the Volcanoes runs through the heart of the country, a chain of glaciated peaks rising above highland valleys and tropical forest that has drawn climbers and explorers for centuries. This eleven-day expedition climbs two of the finest: Cayambe at 18,997 feet, the only snow-capped point on earth that sits directly on the equator, and Cotopaxi at 19,348 feet, one of the world's highest active volcanoes and one of its most iconic.

The program is designed for intermediate climbers ready to step into serious high-altitude mountaineering without committing to a full expedition-scale objective. Cayambe comes first, providing the acclimatization and technical review that sets the team up for Cotopaxi. A skilled Ecuadorian guide joins the program alongside RMI's lead guide, bringing local knowledge of the peaks, the conditions, and the culture that shapes every aspect of how the expedition unfolds.

The expedition begins in Quito, one of the best-preserved colonial cities in South America and a UNESCO World Heritage site. At 9,350 feet, Quito itself begins the acclimatization process while the city's markets, architecture, and neighborhoods offer a genuine introduction to Ecuadorian culture before the climbing begins. This is a program where the mountains are the objective and the country is the experience.

At 20,310 feet, Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America and one of the most serious high-altitude objectives on the planet. The West Buttress is the standard route to the summit, and while it involves no technical rock or vertical ice climbing, that framing undersells the challenge. Miles of glaciated terrain, extreme cold, sustained altitude above 14,000 feet, and weather that can pin a team for days at a stretch are what define this climb. Above 15,000 feet the route steepens considerably, with fixed ropes on the most exposed sections. This is an expedition in every meaningful sense of the word.

Unlike most guide services operating on Mt. McKinley, RMI does not set a fixed end date for this program. The schedule moves with the mountain: conditions, acclimatization progress, and team readiness determine when the team pushes higher and when it waits. That flexibility is not a convenience; it is the approach that gives climbers the best realistic chance at the summit. Guides monitor performance and altitude response throughout, adjusting pace and plans as the situation demands rather than against an arbitrary calendar.

The West Buttress Expedition is a major commitment of time, fitness, and preparation. Climbers should expect to be on the mountain for three weeks or more and should arrive ready for the full weight of that. The mountain sets the terms here, and the program is built around accepting that.