Mike Bennett

Rising above Ecuador's Avenue of the Volcanoes, Cotopaxi is one of the most recognizable peaks in the Andes and one of the world's highest active volcanoes at 19,348 feet. Its near-perfect conical shape, massive glaciers, and accessible technical terrain have made it one of the premier high-altitude climbing objectives in South America for generations of mountaineers. The Cotopaxi Express delivers the full experience of this iconic peak in nine days, from arrival in Quito to summit and home.

The program is built around a smart acclimatization sequence. Two days of cultural exploration and hiking in Quito are followed by an acclimatization climb on Illiniza Norte, a nearby peak that takes the team above 15,000 feet before they ever set foot on Cotopaxi's glacier. A skills review on the glacier near the Jose Ribas Refugio the day before summit day ensures climbers are confident and prepared for the crevasse fields and steep final slopes above.

What makes this program work for intermediate climbers is the combination of efficiency and depth. The nine-day format is compact, but nothing is rushed. The cultural experience of Quito is genuine, the acclimatization is properly sequenced, and the guiding on the mountain reflects decades of RMI experience on Ecuadorian peaks alongside a local guide team that knows Cotopaxi as well as anyone.

At 20,310 feet, Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America and one of the most serious high-altitude objectives on the planet. The West Buttress is the standard route to the summit, and while it involves no technical rock or vertical ice climbing, that framing undersells the challenge. Miles of glaciated terrain, extreme cold, sustained altitude above 14,000 feet, and weather that can pin a team for days at a stretch are what define this climb. Above 15,000 feet the route steepens considerably, with fixed ropes on the most exposed sections. This is an expedition in every meaningful sense of the word.

Unlike most guide services operating on Mt. McKinley, RMI does not set a fixed end date for this program. The schedule moves with the mountain: conditions, acclimatization progress, and team readiness determine when the team pushes higher and when it waits. That flexibility is not a convenience; it is the approach that gives climbers the best realistic chance at the summit. Guides monitor performance and altitude response throughout, adjusting pace and plans as the situation demands rather than against an arbitrary calendar.

The West Buttress Expedition is a major commitment of time, fitness, and preparation. Climbers should expect to be on the mountain for three weeks or more and should arrive ready for the full weight of that. The mountain sets the terms here, and the program is built around accepting that.