Seth Burns

At 20,310 feet, Mt. McKinley is the highest peak in North America and one of the most serious high-altitude objectives on the planet. The West Buttress is the standard route to the summit, and while it involves no technical rock or vertical ice climbing, that framing undersells the challenge. Miles of glaciated terrain, extreme cold, sustained altitude above 14,000 feet, and weather that can pin a team for days at a stretch are what define this climb. Above 15,000 feet the route steepens considerably, with fixed ropes on the most exposed sections. This is an expedition in every meaningful sense of the word.

Unlike most guide services operating on Mt. McKinley, RMI does not set a fixed end date for this program. The schedule moves with the mountain: conditions, acclimatization progress, and team readiness determine when the team pushes higher and when it waits. That flexibility is not a convenience; it is the approach that gives climbers the best realistic chance at the summit. Guides monitor performance and altitude response throughout, adjusting pace and plans as the situation demands rather than against an arbitrary calendar.

The West Buttress Expedition is a major commitment of time, fitness, and preparation. Climbers should expect to be on the mountain for three weeks or more and should arrive ready for the full weight of that. The mountain sets the terms here, and the program is built around accepting that.

The Five Day Rainier Climb offers the classic Mount Rainier experience with added time, margin, and flexibility built into the schedule, allowing teams to move deliberately, adapt to conditions, and fully engage with the mountain rather than rushing to meet a narrow summit window. That extra day provides the flexibility to choose the best timing for summit day (especially valuable when weather is less predictable) making it ideal for first-time Rainier climbers and anyone seeking a deeper immersion in one of North America's most iconic glaciated peaks.

The climb begins with a half day orientation at BaseCamp, then a full day of mountaineering school on the mountain, then spends two nights at Camp Muir in the private hut RMI uses — the only guide service with its own shelter there, giving climbers time to acclimatize, refine movement skills, and recover between efforts. Throughout, you climb in small rope teams at a 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio for closer instruction and more individual attention. Before and after the climb, your team is based at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford, home to the BaseCamp Bar & Grill, Whittaker Mountaineering, and Whittaker's Bunkhouse.