Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

11 Days

|

Mountaineering

|

4500.00

|

$900

Deposit

|

Intermediate

Overview

Volcanic

Two of Ecuador's highest glaciated volcanoes in eleven days, climbing to summits above 18,000 feet on peaks that rise from rainforest to permanent ice.

Cultural

The expedition begins in Quito, one of the best-preserved colonial cities in South America, with time to explore its markets, neighborhoods, and surrounding hills before heading to the peaks.

Accessible

At Level 3 difficulty with a built-in skills review on Cayambe, this is one of the most approachable high-altitude technical climbing expeditions available anywhere in the world.

I loved being able to try and tackle high peaks without the stress that comes with planning an international trip (or with making decisions with respect to weather and the like). Consequently, I could focus on getting up the mountain and that led to a more successful adventure.

Elle C.

Ecuador sits at the intersection of the Andes, the Amazon, and the equator, and the result is one of the most extraordinary mountain environments on earth. The Avenue of the Volcanoes runs through the heart of the country, a chain of glaciated peaks rising above highland valleys and tropical forest that has drawn climbers and explorers for centuries. This eleven-day expedition climbs two of the finest: Cayambe at 18,997 feet, the only snow-capped point on earth that sits directly on the equator, and Cotopaxi at 19,348 feet, one of the world's highest active volcanoes and one of its most iconic.

The program is designed for intermediate climbers ready to step into serious high-altitude mountaineering without committing to a full expedition-scale objective. Cayambe comes first, providing the acclimatization and technical review that sets the team up for Cotopaxi. A skilled Ecuadorian guide joins the program alongside RMI's lead guide, bringing local knowledge of the peaks, the conditions, and the culture that shapes every aspect of how the expedition unfolds.

The expedition begins in Quito, one of the best-preserved colonial cities in South America and a UNESCO World Heritage site. At 9,350 feet, Quito itself begins the acclimatization process while the city's markets, architecture, and neighborhoods offer a genuine introduction to Ecuadorian culture before the climbing begins. This is a program where the mountains are the objective and the country is the experience.

WHY RMI

Setting the Standard Since 1969

RMI has been leading climbers on Ecuador's volcanoes for decades, and the guides on this program bring that accumulated high-altitude experience to every aspect of how the expedition is run. RMI guides hold wilderness medicine certifications, carry comprehensive medical and rescue kits, and maintain radio communication throughout the climb. Every ascent involves thorough pre-trip planning, daily weather assessment, and meticulous attention to pacing and acclimatization. RMI uses its own climbing equipment brought from the US, ensuring the standards of quality and reliability that define every RMI expedition are met on Cayambe and Cotopaxi.

“RMI is top notch. The guides and RMI's commitment to real mountaineering in amazing places is what I love most. I always leave the trips challenged, with new skills and education, and with new friends!” — Whynde K.

What distinguishes this program on the mountain is the partnership with Ecuador's most accomplished local guides. Jaime Avila, Freddy Tipan, and Esteban Mena have climbed extensively around the world from Ecuador to the Himalaya, and their knowledge of these specific peaks, their conditions, and their terrain is built into every decision made on the mountain. RMI brings the guiding expertise and expedition leadership; the local team brings the on-the-ground familiarity with Cayambe and Cotopaxi that no visiting guide service can replicate independently. To learn more about RMI's international partnerships, visit our Partners page.

The logistical foundation of this expedition reflects the same attention to detail. Private vehicles move the team efficiently between peaks, carefully selected lodges keep climbers comfortable and healthy throughout the program, and every detail from hotel arrangements in Quito to transfers between objectives is handled before departure. On a program that covers two peaks in eleven days, that organizational precision directly shapes the quality of the climbing experience.

To learn more about RMI's history and values as a guide service, visit our About page.

Expedition Highlights

Itinerary

Overview

The expedition begins in Quito with two days of cultural exploration and acclimatization hiking before heading north to Cayambe for a skills review and summit attempt on the only snow-capped point on the equator. After a rest day, the team moves to Cotopaxi for the expedition's final and highest summit, returning to Quito on the same day before departing home the following morning.

Point of Origin

Quito, Ecuador

Highest Point

19,348' / 5,897 m

Total Program Duration

11 Days

Summit Days

2

Acclimatization Days

2

Longest Day

10–12 Hours

Day 1

TRAVEL DAY •  9,350' | 2,800m

Depart U.S.A. Most flights arrive in Quito (UIO) in the late evening. Upon your arrival in Quito, a taxi ride takes you to our hotel. Overnight at Mercure Grand Hotel Alameda in Quito.

No items found.

Day 2

EXPLORE QUITO • 9,350' | 2,800m

We meet in the hotel lobby for an orientation meeting and our first team breakfast. The day is spent exploring Colonial Quito with our friendly and knowledgeable guide. We start by heading northwest out of Quito to arrive at Mitad del Mundo (The Middle of the World). Here we visit the Intinan Museum and experience the Coriolis Effect firsthand. After attempting to balance an egg on a nail, we explore the Museum's exhibits on the first peoples of Ecuador.

We return to Quito for a walking tour of Old Town. We visit at El Panecillo, a sculpture of Quito's Madonna, and take in the breathtaking 360 degree views of the city of Quito, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We continue our tour of the colonial architecture and streets such as the Calle La Ronda, Carondelet Palace, Independence Square, church of La Compania (1605), and the church and monastery of San Francisco (1535). There is time in the afternoon to relax and explore. (B)

No items found.

Day 3

ACCLIMATIZE RUCU PICHINCHA (15,696' | 4,784M) •  9,350' | 2,800m

After breakfast we take a short drive from Quito to the teleferico (gondola) which will carry us to approximately 13,500'. From there we stretch our legs and lungs with an acclimatization hike on Rucu Pichincha.  The hike is beautiful, with views of Quito and most of the snow covered volcanoes in Ecuador, including Cotopaxi and Cayambe.  We return to the hotel and the afternoon is free to explore the city and organize our gear for our departure from Quito the following morning. (B)

No items found.

Day 4

ACCLIMATIZE LAGUNA CUICOCHA (11,430' | 3484m) • 8,441' | 2,573m

Leaving Quito we travel north to the town of Otavalo and continue to the outskirts where we enter the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve. We follow a well-maintained trail that circumnavigates Laguna Cuicocha and takes us through a variety of microclimates as we change elevation and pass through a number of heavily-vegetated ravines. Views of the volcanoes in northern Ecuador abound especially of the nearby Cotacachi and Imbabura. We return to the bus and transfer to Otavalo where we spend a relaxing evening at the Intiyaya Residences. (B)

No items found.

Day 5

CAYAMBE CLIMBER'S HUT •  15,300' | 4,663m

We visit the legendary Otavalo Market. Woven wool textiles, jewelry, art, spices and local food overwhelm our senses as we experience the local culture and practice our bargaining skills. After lunch, we drive to the hut at the base of Cayambe. Hiking time is approximately 1 - 2 hours. Overnight at the hut. (B, D)

No items found.

Day 6

CLIMBER'S REVIEW •  15,300' | 4,663m

In the morning we hike out to the toe of the glacier to focus on reviewing basic mountaineering techniques that will prepare us for our summit attempt. We settle in early in anticipation of our alpine start. Overnight at the hut.  (B, D)

No items found.

Day 7

SUMMIT DAY CAYAMBE (18,997' | 5,790M) •  11,400' | 3,475M

With an early alpine start for the summit, our route begins by climbing through some low rock outcroppings before stepping onto a spectacularly crevassed glacier. Once on the glacier, the route climbs directly to the upper reaches of the mountain, where a challenging final push to the summit awaits us.  We return to the hut and transfer to Casa Ilayaku, a deluxe villa located in the hills outside of Quito. (B, D)

No items found.

Day 8

REST DAY •  11,400' | 3,475m

After several days of travel, acclimatization, and climbing we are rewarded with a bit of rest in preparation for our next objective. Chilcabamba Eco Lodge is the perfect place for our rest day. Climbers can choose to explore the local area on foot, spend time enjoying a book in front of a fire, or take a nap.  (B, D)

No items found.

Day 9

JOSE RIBAS REFUGIO •  16,000' | 4,877m

After breakfast, a short drive takes us to the end of the road at the base of Cotopaxi. A 45-minute hike leads to the Jose Ribas Refugio at 16,000'.  We settle in early in anticipation of tomorrow's summit day. Overnight at the hut.  (B, D)

No items found.

Day 10

SUMMIT DAY COTOPAXI (19,348' | 5,897M) • 9,350' | 2,800m

With an early alpine start, we use the first hour to approach the glacier. A long, initial pitch gains access to an interesting maze of crevasses on the lower slopes of this beautiful volcano. The ascent then weaves through impressive crevasse fields before ascending the final steep slopes to the summit. The deep, sheer-walled volcanic crater is an incredibly impressive sight. After celebrating on the summit, we descend back to the hut. Upon reaching the vehicles, we leave the mountains and travel back to Quito. Climbing time is approximately 10 - 12 hours. (B)

No items found.

Day 11

TRAVEL DAY

We transfer to the airport for our outbound flights.

Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.
No items found.

Qualifications

Fitness

You should arrive in excellent physical condition and prepared for steep glacier climbing with a pack and summit days that can exceed ten to twelve hours on the mountain.

Experience

Prior experience with roped travel, crampon technique, and ice axe arrest is required before arriving in Ecuador, though a skills review is built into the itinerary on Cayambe before the summit attempt.

Altitude

Both peaks exceed 18,000 feet, and climbers should be prepared to perform physically and mentally at high altitude over consecutive summit days.

Cayambe and Cotopaxi are serious high-altitude objectives that reward climbers who arrive with a solid foundation of basic mountaineering skills and genuine aerobic fitness. This is not an instructional program, but a skills review is built into the Cayambe portion of the itinerary to ensure the team is prepared and confident before the summit attempt. Climbers should arrive with working experience in roped travel, crampon technique, and ice axe arrest, and the fitness to apply those skills over a long summit day carrying a 20 to 25 pound pack.

Training should emphasize sustained aerobic output, uphill travel with a pack, and the ability to perform at high effort in cold and steep terrain. The acclimatization schedule built into the itinerary, beginning in Quito at 9,350 feet and building progressively through hikes and the Cayambe ascent before Cotopaxi, is designed to give climbers the best possible chance on both peaks. Arriving well-rested and healthy in the days before departure directly shapes how your body responds to altitude on the mountain.

Climbers completing the Cayambe and Cotopaxi expedition gain experience with high-altitude glacier climbing, crevasse navigation, and technical mountaineering on two of the Andes' most celebrated volcanoes.

Recommended Climbing Resumé

Your climbing resumé should include:

Previous experience with roped glacier travel*

Comfortable with crampon technique on steep terrain*

Proficient with ice axe arrest*

Previous experience at altitudes above 10,000 feet

Strong aerobic fitness with an active training regimen in place

Items marked with an Asterix (*) are considered mandatory prerequisites for this program.

Physical Fitness Training

Mountaineering places sustained demands on your body and your ability to stay composed under effort. Even very fit people find that moving uphill with weight, for long hours, in variable weather is a different kind of challenge than most everyday training.

Preparation matters. Fitness directly affects how well you move, how much you learn, how the team functions, and how enjoyable the experience is overall.

Start early. Begin training well in advance of your program with the goal of arriving rested, resilient, and confident in your capacity for sustained effort.

Train intentionally. Emphasize aerobic endurance, uphill movement, and strength that supports long days on your feet. Core stability, balance, and mobility all play an important role in efficiency and injury prevention.

Train specifically. The closer you get to your program date, the more your training should resemble the demands of mountaineering: hiking uphill with weight, moving steadily for hours, and recovering well enough to do it again the next day.

Across RMI programs, strong preparation typically means being comfortable with long days of continuous movement, carrying a pack appropriate to the objective, and maintaining focus and decision-making when tired. Technical skills are taught or reviewed as appropriate to each program, but fitness is something you bring with you.

Nothing contributes more to a successful and rewarding experience than arriving well prepared. Plan to be in excellent physical condition and ready for a demanding day in the mountains.

Total Hiking Time

Elevation Gain / Loss

Total Distance

Pack Weight

DAY 1 | TRAVEL TO QUITO

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

DAY 2 | EXPLORE QUITO

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

DAY 3 | ACCLIMATIZE RUCU PICHINCHA

5 - 6 hours

Gain = 2,196' | Loss = 2,196'

6 miles round trip

15 - 20 lb

DAY 4 | ACCLIMATIZE LAGUNA CUICOCHA

4 - 6 hours

Gain = 2,224' | Loss = 2,224'

7.9 miles round trip

15 - 20 lb

DAY 5 | CAYAMBE CLIMBER'S HUT

1 - 2 hours

30 - 40 lb

DAY 6 | CLIMBER'S REVIEW

2 - 4 hours

20 - 25 lb

DAY 7 | SUMMIT DAY - CAYAMBE

10 - 12 hours

Gain = 3,697' | Loss = 7,597'

5 miles round trip

20 - 25 lb

DAY 8 | REST DAY

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

DAY 9 | JOSE RIBAS REFUGIO

45 minutes

Gain = 900'

0.6 miles one way

30 - 40 lb

DAY 10 | SUMMIT DAY - COTOPAXI

10 - 12 hours

Gain = 3,348' | Loss = 9,998'

4.7 miles round trip

20 - 25 lb

DAY 11 | TRAVEL DAY

n/a

n/a

n/a

n/a

Fitness And Training Resources

Our guides have decades of experience training for alpine objectives, and we've done our best to put together relevant resources to help you with your expedition preparation.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is the process by which your body adjusts to lower oxygen levels at altitude. How well this happens has a direct impact on how you feel, how you perform, and how much margin you have as the climb progresses.

Program length and structure matter. Longer expeditions are designed with ascent profiles that allow your body more time to adapt. Shorter programs often move through altitude faster than the body can fully adjust. In these cases, climbers typically experience mild but normal symptoms associated with early acclimatization rather than full adaptation. This is expected and accounted for in program design.

Physical conditioning plays a major role. Well-conditioned climbers generally have more energy available to support the acclimatization process over consecutive days. Fitness does not prevent altitude exposure, but it improves resilience, recovery, and the ability to function well while your body is adapting.

How you take care of yourself matters just as much as the itinerary. Arriving healthy and rested, staying well hydrated, eating consistently, and managing heat loss all support acclimatization and performance. These factors become increasingly important as altitude, duration, and cumulative fatigue increase.

RMI programs are structured to balance objective goals with appropriate acclimatization strategies for the terrain and timeframe involved. Individual responses to altitude vary, but strong preparation and good self-care remain the most reliable ways to support a positive experience at elevation.

Your Role as a Climber

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Before any program begins, RMI works directly with prospective climbers to confirm that everyone joining a team is genuinely prepared for the demands ahead. Depending on the program, this may involve conversations with our office staff, a review of your climbing history, or feedback from guides and other climbers who know your abilities. The goal is straightforward: to ensure that every person on the rope belongs there. We ask that each climber hold themselves to the same standard:

  • Meet Program Prerequisites: Arrive with the climbing experience, qualifications, and gear outlined for your program.
  • Arrive Prepared: Come in top physical and mental condition. Strong preparation directly affects your performance, your teammates' experience, and the team's overall safety.
  • Be Informed: Review all pre-departure materials and communicate any questions to the RMI office before your start date.
  • Medical Clearance: Provide any required medical documentation and inform the RMI office of any changes to your health before departure.
  • Team Consideration: Act considerately toward all team members and respect the customs and values of the areas you travel through.
  • Environmental Respect: Follow Leave No Trace practices throughout the program.
  • Communicate Honestly: Accurately represent your fitness, health, skills, and equipment to your guide staff, and keep them informed of any changes during the program.
  • Stay Accountable: Attend all briefings and gear checks, follow guide instructions, and take personal responsibility for your equipment, hygiene, and readiness for changing conditions.
  • Self-Assess Continuously: Evaluate your fitness and readiness honestly against the demands of the program. Your willingness to do so contributes directly to the safety of the entire team.

The standards we set exist to protect everyone on the team. RMI holds all climbers accountable to them, and we take seriously our responsibility to build teams of people who are ready to be in the mountains together. RMI reserves the right to remove a participant from a program or send them to a lower altitude if our guide staff determines, in their sole discretion, that the participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared or capable of participating, or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the participant or the group. In such cases, no refunds or credits will be issued, and the participant will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including evacuation, transportation, lodging, and meals.

Equipment

What You'll Need

The Cayambe and Cotopaxi expedition operates on two glaciated Andean volcanoes over eleven days, and the gear list reflects decades of RMI guiding experience on high-altitude technical objectives in Ecuador and across the Andes. Every item has been selected to support glacier climbing, crevasse navigation, and summit days that can exceed ten to twelve hours at altitudes above 18,000 feet. Every experienced mountaineer refines their kit over time, but this list represents what RMI expects climbers to bring to Ecuador.

Not every item may be used on both peaks, but all required equipment must be available throughout the expedition. RMI uses its own climbing equipment brought from the US, ensuring the standards of quality and reliability that define every RMI expedition are maintained from Cayambe to Cotopaxi.

Guide pick™

Each RMI program includes a required personal equipment list built around the specific terrain, conditions, and objectives of the climb. Every item serves a purpose and supports safety, efficiency, and comfort in the mountains.

Guide Picks™ are examples that meet our performance standards and illustrate the type of gear we recommend. Each year, our partners at Whittaker Mountaineering survey our staff of 70+ guides to get a consensus on the best gear for the job. You do not need to purchase the exact item shown, but any alternative must offer comparable function and durability.

All listed items are required for the gear check. Final adjustments may be recommended by your guide based on conditions and team needs once the expedition begins.

Gear Up

Most of the required equipment is available for rent or purchase from our affiliate Whittaker Mountaineering. RMI climbers receive a 10% discount on new clothing and equipment items ordered from Whittaker Mountaineering.

Equipment List

Thank you! Your submission has been received!
Oops! Something went wrong while submitting the form.

Pack & Travel

Sleeping Bag & Pad

Technical Gear

Head

Hands

Upper Body

Lower Body

Feet

First Aid & Medications

Personal Items

Travel Clothes

Travel Documents

Pre-Trip Checklist

Provided Equipment

Pack & Travel

100+ Duffel Bag(s)

A durable duffel bag (100-120L) made of tough material with rugged zippers for gear transport and storage. Can be used as checked luggage and for organizing gear at base locations.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

Luggage Locks

Bring as needed. Make sure these are TSA-compliant.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Pack & Travel

50+ Liter Backpack

A technical climbing pack large enough to carry personal gear, layers, food, water, and a share of group equipment. You will not need a separate summit pack.

Guide Pick™
Pack & Travel

25+ Liter Day Pack

A lightweight day pack for carry-on luggage, sightseeing, or light day use. For ski programs, a pack with ski-carrying capability is recommended.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

0° - 20°F Sleeping Bag

We recommend a bag rated between 20° and 0° F. Allow ample room for movement. We recommend down over synthetic for its light weight, warmth, and packability. If you know you sleep cold, consider a 0° F bag.

Guide Pick™
Sleeping Bag & Pad

Compression Stuff Sack For Sleeping Bag

A compression stuff sack to reduce sleeping bag volume and protect it from moisture during transport and on the mountain.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Ice Axe

A straight-shaft ice axe with a classic pick and adze designed for glacier travel, self-arrest, and general snow climbing. Should be appropriately sized for your height.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Climbing Harness

A comfortable, adjustable alpine climbing harness. Removable, drop-seat, or adjustable leg loops are recommended for managing layers and bathroom breaks in the mountains.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Triple-action Locking Carabiner

Used for clipping into the climbing rope.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Non-locking Carabiner(s)

Used for pack ditch loop, etc.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

General Mountaineering Crampons

10- or 12-point adjustable steel crampons with anti-balling plates for general mountaineering and glacier travel. Automatic, semi-automatic, or strap-on attachment depending on boot compatibility. Ensure crampons are compatible with your specific boots before your program.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Avalanche Transceiver With Fresh Batteries

A three-antenna avalanche transceiver with fresh batteries for travel in avalanche terrain. Bring extra batteries appropriate to the program duration.

Guide Pick™
Technical Gear

Trekking Poles

We recommend lightweight and collapsible poles with snow baskets.

Guide Pick™
Head

Helmet

A UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) or CE (European Committee for Standardization) certified climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Beanie

Wool or synthetic. It should provide warmth but also be thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Ball Cap Or Sun Hat

A hat without a button on top will fit better and be more comfortable under a helmet.

Guide Pick™
Head

Buff or Neck Gaiter

A versatile neck gaiter or buff for head and neck protection in variable conditions.

Guide Pick™
Head

Headlamp

Start with fresh batteries and bring extra set(s) of batteries appropriate to the duration of the trip.

Guide Pick™
Head

Glacier Glasses

Glacier glasses are protective sunglasses that provide close to 100% frame coverage (wrap-around frames and side shields ensure no light can enter from the top, bottom, and sides of the glasses) and transmit less than 10% of visual light.

Guide Pick™
Head

Goggles

Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. On windy days, climbers, especially contact lens wearers, may find photochromatic lenses the most versatile in a variety of light conditions.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Lightweight Gloves

Light weight liner or softshell gloves. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Medium Weight Gloves

Insulated gloves for active climbing and moderate cold conditions. Should allow adequate dexterity for handling gear while providing warmth.

Guide Pick™
Hands

Heavy Weight Gloves Or Mittens

Wind- and water-resistant, insulated gloves or mittens. These also serve as emergency backups if you drop or lose a lighter-weight glove.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Upper Body Layering

We recommend a minimum of five upper body layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Two of these should be insulating layers, one light, and one medium, that fit well together. Today there are many different layering systems to choose from, including fleece, softshell, down, and synthetic options.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Upper Body

Lightweight Baselayer or Sun Hoody

A lightweight, breathable long-sleeve shirt in synthetic or merino wool for sun protection and moisture management during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Lightweight Insulating Layer

One step up in warmth and bulk from a baselayer. A technical fleece makes an ideal light weight insulating layer.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Medium Weight Insulating Layer

An insulated jacket or softshell for warmth during low-output activity and extended rest breaks. Should fit over baselayers and midlayers, and under a shell.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Hardshell Jacket

A waterproof jacket with a hood for protection against wind, rain, and snow. Should fit comfortably over all insulating layers.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Down Parka With Attached Hood

An expedition-style down parka that extends below the waist with an insulated hood, designed to fit over all other layers. Worn primarily in camp, during rest breaks, and on summit day. Down fill recommended over synthetic.

Guide Pick™
Upper Body

Sports Bra

We recommend a moisture-wicking, active-wear bra.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lower Body Layering

We recommend a system of four layers, all of which can be used in conjunction with each other. Products which combine several layers into one garment, such as traditional ski pants, don’t work well as they don’t offer the versatility of a layering system.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Lower Body

Pairs Of Underwear

Non-cotton briefs or boxers.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Lightweight Baselayer Bottoms

Lightweight synthetic or merino wool baselayer bottoms for moisture management and temperature regulation during active climbing.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Climbing Pants

Softshell climbing pants can be worn in combination with a base layer on colder days, or alone on warmer days.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Hardshell Pants

Non-insulated, waterproof shell pants must be able to fit comfortable over your baselayer bottoms and softshell climbing pants. Full side zippers or 7/8 side zippers are required so that shell pants can be put on while wearing boots and crampons.

Guide Pick™
Lower Body

Light Weight Trekking Pants Or Shorts

A light weight, synthetic pair of pants is a good option for the approach trek when hiking at lower altitudes and in warm conditions.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Single Or Double Mountaineering Boots

Boots are one of the most important pieces of mountaineering gear, and bringing the right pair is critical to your safety and success on Mt. Rainier. You will need one pair of boots for this climb, and the type of boot you wear will be dictated by freezing level. If the freezing level is below 10,000 feet, your guide will require the use of double boots. If the freezing level is above 10,000 feet, you may use either single or double boots. We consistently see freezing levels below 10,000 feet in April, May, June, and September, though periods of cold weather are not uncommon in July and August.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Single Mountaineering Boots

Insulated, full-shank, crampon-compatible leather or synthetic boots designed for general mountaineering. Lighter and more comfortable than double boots but with less insulation for extreme cold.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Double Mountaineering Boots

Insulated double boots with removable inner boots for cold, high-altitude mountaineering. Modern synthetic models are lighter and more comfortable than traditional plastic-shelled boots.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Hiking Boots

A pair of lightweight boots for approaches and hiking on rugged terrain. We recommend a waterproof, mid-top boot for better stability and ankle support.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Casual Shoes

Great for traveling and wearing around town or camp. A pair of tennis shoes or light hikers works well.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Feet

Gaiters

A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampon spikes on loose clothing. Not needed if using a boot with an integrated gaiter.

Guide Pick™
Feet

Pairs Of Socks

Either wool or synthetic. Whatever sock combination you are accustomed to wearing during your training or previous adventures (whether single medium weight socks, a medium weight with a liner sock, two medium weight socks together, etc.), should work just fine for this climb.

Guide Pick™
First Aid & Medications

Medications

We recommend you speak with your physician about which medications you should have for high-altitude climbing. These medications are only used in emergency situations, and if someone is showing symptoms of HAPE or HACE, our standard protocol is for immediate descent. We do not take any of these medications prophylactically, and please talk with your guide before taking medications.

We require each climber to have the following medications:

Guide Pick™
No items found.
First Aid & Medications

Antibiotics

Broad spectrum antibiotics for respiratory and gastrointestinal problems like Azithromycin (250mg tablets).

Guide Pick™
No items found.
First Aid & Medications

Acetazolamide (diamox)

125mg tablets for the prevention or treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. A normal prescription is 125mg tablets, twice a day. Recommend 15 - 20 tablets.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
First Aid & Medications

Dexamethasone

4mg tablets for the treatment of altitude illness. Recommend 12 tablets.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
First Aid & Medications

Nifedipine

30mg slow-release tablets for the prevention or treatment of high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Recommend 8 - 10 tablets.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
First Aid & Medications

Small Personal First Aid Kit

Our guides carry comprehensive medical kits, so keep yours small and light. We recommend a selection of adhesive bandages, antibiotic ointment, Moleskin and blister care, medical tape and/or duct tape, basic pain reliever, and personal medications.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Meals & Snacks

You are responsible for providing your own meals and snack food in town and while on your program. See the Food tab for suggestions and quantities.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Water Bottles

One-liter water bottles with wide mouths made of co-polyester (BPA-free plastic).

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Stuff Sack(s)

Bring as needed.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Large Garbage Bags

Heavy-duty trash compacter bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. You can also use a waterproof pack liner.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Pocket Knife

A small folding knife or multi-tool for general utility and gear repairs in the field.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Reading Material/journal

Books, magazines, or a journal for downtime at camp; a Kindle or similar e-reader is a practical alternative for longer expeditions where weight and bulk matter. Choose based on program length and personal preference.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Personal Toiletries & Bag

Include toilet paper, hand sanitizer, toothbrush and toothpaste, and wet wipes. Bring a quantity appropriate to the duration of your trip.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Sunscreen

We recommend small tubes of SPF 30 or higher, which can be carried in pockets for easy access and to prevent freezing.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Lip Balm

We recommend SPF 15 or higher.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Ear Plugs

Disposable or reusable ear plugs for sleeping in shared tent or hut accommodations.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Spare Contact Lenses/ Eyeglasses

Spare prescription glasses if you wear contact lenses/eyeglasses.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Chemical Hand And Toe Warmers

Single-use packets that generate heat when activated, designed to warm hands and feet during extended periods in cold conditions. Bring multiple pairs for multi-day programs.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Pee Funnel (for Women)

Practice using this before coming on the climb!

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Pee Bottle

One clearly-marked wide-mouth or collapsible bottle for overnight use.

Guide Pick™
Personal Items

Camera

Many smartphones have excellent cameras. Action cameras, small point-and-shoots, and compact dSLRs are lightweight and work well at altitude.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Power Bank

A small power bank, enough to charge a phone or e-reader several times.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

Travel Power Adapter

For charging personal electronics while traveling internationally.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Travel Clothes

Travel Clothes

We recommend bringing a selection of clothing to wear while traveling, sightseeing and dining.  

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Head

Sunglasses

If Glacier Glasses are not required, regular sunglasses will suffice on this program.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Travel Documents

Passport

Valid for six months beyond your return date.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Travel Documents

Copy Of Passport

The first two pages of your passport.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Travel Documents

Copy Of Flight Itinerary

A printed or digital copy of your complete flight itinerary, including confirmation numbers and times, for reference during travel and check-in. Keep this easily accessible throughout your journey.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Pre-Trip Checklist

Insurance

Purchase travel insurance.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Pre-Trip Checklist

Flights

Purchase airplane tickets.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Pre-Trip Checklist

Equipment

Reserve rental equipment.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Pre-Trip Checklist

Fitness

Be in the best shape of your life!

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Provided Equipment

Provided Equipment

RMI provides the following equipment for your program: huts, stoves, group cooking equipment, fuel, climbing ropes, climbing anchors, avalanche probes, shovels, and blue bags (for solid waste disposal).

Every guide on your climb will carry rescue equipment and a first aid kit. Each climb has two-way radios and a satellite phone for emergency contact.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Travel Clothes

Swimsuit

For, you know, swimming.

Guide Pick™
No items found.
Personal Items

GPS Watch

A GPS-enabled watch with altimeter, barometer, and compass for navigation and weather monitoring. Many modern smart watches and dedicated outdoor watches offer this functionality.

Guide Pick™

fuel for the mountain

On Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador you will need 7 mountain lunches. All of your mountain lunch items should weigh 3 - 4 lb.

Breakfast and dinner meals on the mountain are included as indicated in our Trip Itinerary. With the exception of hotel breakfasts, most restaurant meals are on your own. You are responsible for your own bottled water and drinks.

ABOUT YOUR MOUNTAIN MEALS

Mountain Lunches

Mountain lunches are eaten during short breaks throughout the day. We continually snack to keep our energy levels up while we climb - lunch begins just after breakfast and ends just before dinner! Avoid packing any items that require preparation or hot water.

The importance of having foods that are genuinely enjoyed cannot be overstated. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength while in the mountains. In order to combat the loss of appetite at altitude we aim to have a variety of foods that stimulate the whole palate, from sweet to sour to salty.

Recommended mountain lunch items: dry salami, smoked salmon, jerky (turkey, beef, fish), small cans of tuna fish, individually wrapped cheeses such as Laughing Cow or Baby Bell, crackers, bagels, candy bars, hard candies (Jolly Ranchers, Toffees, Life Savers), Gummy Bears, sour candies (Sweet Tarts), cookies, dried fruit, nuts, energy bars, GORP mixes, and drink mixes (Gatorade/Kool-Aid).

We may have a chance to purchase additional food in Ecuador, but we recommend you take what you need and only supplement with local food if necessary.

Breakfast

The breakfast menu includes items such as instant oatmeal, cold cereals (granola), breakfast bars (Kashi, Kudos), hot drinks (coffee, tea, cocoa, cider) and local fresh fruit.

Dinner

Dinner usually begins with soup and ends with dessert, followed by a round of hot drinks. Healthy one-pot meals, incorporating fresh local food whenever practical, are served as the main course. One typical main course dinner might be spaghetti with sausage and fresh vegetables. Another meal might be chicken fajitas with cheese, tortillas, onions, and peppers. There are limitations, but the menu is planned to offer good variety and ample portions.

Travel, culture, & logistics

This page covers the practical details you’ll want to review before your trip, including travel logistics, entry requirements, local considerations, and required policies. Taking time to understand these details ahead of departure helps ensure a smoother experience once you’re on the ground and focused on the climb.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Travel Advisories / Warnings

Please confirm any current travel advisories/warnings as well as entry requirements with the U.S. Department of State.

Getting There

Several U.S. airlines offer daily flights to Quito, Ecuador (UIO). Flights generally arrive late in the evening on Day 1 of the itinerary.

Flights departing Quito may be booked for any time on the final day of the program.

Entry Information

A valid passport is required when traveling to Ecuador. Your passport must be valid for 6 months beyond the expected return date. U.S. passport holders may stay up to 90 days without a visa.

We suggest making a copy of the first two pages of your passport and keeping them in a separate bag as a backup. A copy should also be left with your emergency contact.

Airport Arrival

Upon arrival at the Quito airport, follow the signs to the Arrivals Building. Proceed to the Immigrations desk for foreign travelers. They will provide you with an entrance permit adequate for your stay. Please check the date to ensure it covers your complete stay in Ecuador.

Once you receive your bags from Baggage Claim, you will proceed to Customs. There will be a random selection of bags for inspection. Be sure to keep all your bags together.

After you have gathered your baggage and passed through Customs you will find a desk in front of the exit gate where you can ask for a taxi. Take a taxi to our hotel. A fixed price of approximately $25 to $30 is in place.

In-Country Transportation

The provided transportation in Ecuador as stated in the itinerary is via authorized taxi or private vehicle.

Immunizations & Travel Medicine

For the most current information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Centers for Diseases Control and Prevention.

Traveler's Health

Travelers may suffer from upset stomachs when in foreign countries. There are some basic rules, however, that can help keep you healthy.

  • Hygiene - It is important that you wash your hands thoroughly before meals and after using the restroom. If water is not available for washing, we recommend using a hand sanitizer.
  • Water - The number one rule is: don't drink the water, and that includes shower water and ice! Brush your teeth with purified water rather than tap water. You should check bottled water for a good seal and use a napkin to wipe excess moisture in drinking glasses. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if it has been diluted with water. Carefully clean the tops of bottled beverages before opening.
  • Food - If it is cooked, boiled, or can be peeled, you can usually eat it. Salads and fruits should be washed with purified water or peeled where possible. Be wary of ice cream and shellfish. Always avoid any undercooked meat.

Medical Emergencies

Excellent care for minor illnesses and injuries is readily available. In the event of more serious illnesses or injuries, we recommend transport to any of the Level 1 care centers in Quito.

ADDITIONAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

Ecuador Country Facts

Ecuador is named for the Equator, which crosses through the northern reaches of the country. While it is the smallest Andean country, it has four remarkably distinct and diverse regions: the coastal plains, the Andean highlands, the jungles of the upper Amazon basin, and the Galapagos Islands.

Ecuador is the world's largest exporter of bananas. The Andean highlands contain beautiful and productive farmland, often seen in a classic patchwork pattern. Oil from the rich eastern jungles enriches the economy. The volcanic Galapagos Islands bring tourism revenue with its unique reptiles, birds, and plants.

The country is divided ethnically as well as regionally. About 10 percent of the population is of European descent, about a quarter belong to indigenous cultures, and many others are of mixed ethnicity.

The capital, Quito, is the second highest capital in South America. Quito is set beautifully in a highland valley at 9,300'.

By the beginning of the 16th century Quito was ruled by the Incas and was the northern capital of their empire. When the Spanish arrived, the area was razed by a general of Atahualpa to make certain it did not fall into Spanish hands. Thus the colonial city was built on the Inca ruins in 1534 by a lieutenant of Pizarro. The current layout of the old city dates back to the 18th century, complete with cobble-stone streets, parks, plazas and colonial architecture.

Weather

The weather in Quito and while traveling to and from the mountains can be very warm. We recommend bringing a pair of shorts and a T-shirt. For current weather conditions, check Weather Underground.

The western mountains, which include Cotopaxi and the Illinizas, experience two dry seasons. The first is from July through August, and the second is in December and January.

The eastern mountains, which include Cayambe and Antisana, are best climbed from June through January. The wettest months of the year for these peaks are February through May.

These mountains are climbed throughout the entire year, with the best mountain snowpack on Cotopaxi, Cayambe and Antisana found between October and June.

While there can be no guarantees of perfect weather in the mountains, our expeditions take full advantage of the weather and snowpack conditions for both these peaks, and utilize those months for optimal climbing experiences.

Cultural Etiquette

The people of Ecuador are generally very warm and friendly to tourists. Although it is not expected that we dress formally, we should dress modestly. Casual and comfortable clothing is suggested along with comfortable shoes. Showing expensive cameras, watches, jewelry, etc. is considered unseemly and may attract unwanted attention.

When entering a shop or home, politely use a greeting such as buenos dias (good day), buenas tardes (good afternoon), buenas noches (good night). Similarly, upon leaving, even if you've had only minimal contact, say adios (goodbye) or hasta luego (see you later). Ecuadorians usually shake hands upon parting as well.

On city streets, children selling small items and shining shoes can be quite persistent. Some ask directly for money. To keep from being hassled, a polite but firm "No, gracias" is generally sufficient.

It is expected that you engage in some degree of bargaining for market or street purchases. This is fun, and should be taken lightly.

Electricity

Electricity in Ecuador is the same as in the United States: the ungrounded two-prong plug is used for 110 volt, 60 hertz appliances. Appliances with three prongs or an enlarged prong will require an adaptor.

Money

The current currency of Ecuador is the U.S. Dollar. Check a financial newspaper or www.xe.com for the current exchange rate prior to departure.

We suggest bringing $500-$700 total for personal spending money including restaurant meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.

Cash machines are readily available in Quito, but become increasingly difficult to find outside of urban areas.

Credit cards are accepted in most, but not all, areas.

Everyone has a preferred way to carry money. Some use money belts, others have hidden pockets. Whatever you do, be aware of pickpockets and thieves in any area which caters to tourists.

Tipping

Everyone approaches tipping a little differently. Whether or not a person tips, and how much, is completely dependent upon the individual; here are some suggested tipping guidelines for your trip.

Local waiters, drivers, and other service personnel expect to be tipped. Ten to fifteen percent is standard. Some restaurants and hotels add a 10% service fee to bills in which case, no further tip is required.

Support Staff Tip Pool: We recommend that each climber contribute $150 to the Tip Pool. This is collected at the beginning of the trip and will cover group tips for all our support and mountain staff throughout the program.

Our guides work hard to ensure your well-being and success on the mountain. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of enjoyment. Tips for excellent service normally average 10 – 15% of the cost of the program. If you would rather not bring the guide gratuity with you on the trip, you can send a check or call the RMI office to pay with a credit card upon your return.

Resources

Rob Rachowiecki and Mark Thurber, Ecuador: Climbing and Hiking Guide. VIVA Publishing, 2013.
The authors have combined many years of Ecuador experience into a useful, readable and comprehensive guide.

Ecuador Explorer and The Best of Ecuador are thorough websites describing Ecuador travel and facts.

Expedition Policies

The following policies are applicable for this expedition.

INCLUDED

  • RMI Leadership
  • Hotel accommodations as indicated in the itinerary, based on double occupancy*
  • All park entrance fees
  • Sight seeing arrangements as indicated in the itinerary
  • All group transportation in country as indicated in the itinerary
  • All group cooking, climbing and camping equipment

* Accommodations are based on double occupancy.  A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those occupying single accommodations by choice or circumstance. The single supplement is not available in huts, tents, or in all hotels.

NOT INCLUDED

  • International airfare
  • Travel insurance, medical evacuation insurance and security evacuation insurance
  • Excess baggage fees and departure taxes
  • Meals not included in the itinerary
  • Bottled water and personal drinks
  • Customary guide gratuities
  • Support Staff Tip Pool (we suggest $150 per person)
  • Additional room charges including laundry service and other personal expenses
  • Hotel accommodations not indicated in the itinerary
  • Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. reserves the right to modify the land cost of a trip at any time before departure.

PAYMENTS

Deposit Payments: A non-refundable deposit payment of $900 per person secures your reservation.

  • Deposit payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, or check from a U.S. bank.

Balance Payments: The balance payment is due 120 days before the start of your program.

  • Balance payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express*, e-check/ACH, check from a U.S. bank or wire transfer.**
    • **Wire transfers must cover all fees charged by your bank. The amount of the incoming wire to our bank must equal the balance payment amount.
  • A payment reminder is emailed approximately three weeks before your payment due date. If your balance payment is not received 120 days before the start of your program, your reservation will be canceled, and all program fees will be forfeited.
  • Payment in full is required when registering for a program within 120 days of the departure date.

*There is a 3% surcharge on all credit/debit card transactions. 

Cancellation

The deposit is non-refundable and non-transferable.

  • Cancellations must be submitted in writing. Once received, the following policy applies:
    • Cancellations made 120 or more days before the program start date will forfeit the deposit.
    • Cancellations made less than 120 days before the program start date will not receive refunds or credits.

We do not offer refunds. Please remember this before registering for this program. Due to the time-sensitive nature of this program, no exceptions will be made to the cancellation policy.

Risk Management Policy

Please clearly understand that mountaineering is inherently hazardous. Managing risk is RMI’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in mountaineering, but they cannot eliminate them. Objective hazards include rockfall, icefall, avalanches, slides or falls by individuals and rope teams on steeper slopes, weather-related problems including cold, heat, high winds, and other unnamed dangers that can occur while climbing.

You are choosing to engage in an activity in which guided and non-guided climbers have been injured or killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risks and hazards of mountaineering and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in this activity.

PARTICIPANT RESPONSIBILITIES

Mountaineering is both an individual challenge and a team endeavor. Each Participant is required to share in the responsibility of the safety and success of the team. For this reason, we ask that each Participant:

  • Possess the climbing prerequisites required for this program.
  • Possess the necessary physical and mental fitness required for this program.
  • Be responsible for knowing all pre-departure information.
  • Provide a signed Physician’s Certificate stating that the Participant is medically qualified to join this program.
  • Update the RMI Office if there are any changes to your health or medical information before departure.
  • Be properly attired and equipped as outlined in the Equipment List.
  • Act in a considerate manner toward all team members and show respect for local customs, values, and traditions in the areas we travel.
  • Show respect for the environment and follow appropriate Leave No Trace practices.
  • Describe yourself, honestly and accurately, in terms of fitness, health, skills, abilities, and your equipment to your guide staff.
  • Communicate with your guide staff on the mountain if there are any changes in your medications or health.
  • Adhere to the advice of your guide staff.
  • Continue to self-assess throughout the program, measuring your fitness, health, skills, and abilities against the demands required of the program.

RMI reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a program or to send the Participant to a lower altitude at any time if the RMI Guide Staff determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program or for any other reason that may compromise the safety, health or well-being of the Participant or the entire group. If this decision is made, the Participant will not receive any refunds or credits and will be financially responsible for any additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to, evacuation, transportation, hotels, meals, etc.

Zero Tolerance Harassment Policy

Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) does not tolerate harassment or mistreatment of our participants or employees. Inappropriate conduct under this policy may include conduct that creates a disrespectful, intimidating, hostile, degrading, humiliating, or offensive environment for a participant or employee. Engaging in such conduct is a violation of this policy.

RMI may consider conduct to violate the policy even if it falls short of unlawful harassment under applicable law. When determining whether conduct violates this policy, we will consider whether a reasonable person could conclude that the conduct created an intimidating, hostile, degrading, or demeaning environment.

Violation of this policy may result in removal from a program, as well as refusal to provide services indefinitely. We place the utmost value on the safety of our participants and employees. Please report any incidents to RMI management.

Age Requirements

All participants must be 18 years old at the time of registration.

Photo Release

RMI’s Photo Release outlines the terms and conditions for using your likeness in photographs, videos, or other digital media.

I hereby grant Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI) or its affiliates permission to use my likeness in a photograph, video, or other digital media (“photo”) in any and all of its publications, including web-based publications. By granting permission, you allow RMI to utilize these media for lawful purposes.

Here are the key points:

  1. Authorization: You authorize RMI to edit, alter, copy, exhibit, publish, or distribute the photos.
  2. Ownership: All photos become the property of RMI and will not be returned.
  3. Compensation: You will not be compensated for these uses.
  4. Rights: RMI exclusively owns all rights to the images, videos, and recordings and to any derivative works created from them.
  5. Waiver: You waive the right to inspect or approve printed or electronic copies.
  6. Release: You release Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and its assigns and licensees from any claims arising from these uses, including defamation, invasion of privacy, rights of publicity, or copyright.
  7. Hold Harmless: You hold harmless, release, and forever discharge RMI or its affiliates from any and all claims, demands, and causes of action which I, my heirs, representatives, executors, administrators, or any other persons acting on my behalf or on behalf of my estate have or may have by reason of this authorization.

Summit Attempt Policy

RMI cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities, or the abilities of other climbers may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire group may have to turnaround without reaching the summit.

Failure to reach the summit due to a person’s own lack of fitness or to any of the events associated with mountaineering (such as weather, route conditions, avalanche hazard, team dynamics, etc.), are not Rainier Mountaineering, Inc.’s responsibility and will not result in a refund, credit, or reschedule.

GENERAL POLICIES

RMI’s program schedule and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, group strength, terrain, or other environmental factors, and many other factors. RMI has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including but not limited to, increases in program fees, changes to program schedule or itinerary, and changes to guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program. Once the program has started, the Lead Guide will decide on any changes to the itinerary, including ending the program early if the continuation of the program may compromise the safety, health, or well-being of the group.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather, route conditions, or for any other reason. In such a case, we will make every effort to reschedule the Participant on a different program date. If rescheduling is not possible, we will issue the Participant a refund for all program fees paid to RMI, less any non-refundable payments made on behalf of the Participant to secure any of the included land costs provided for this program, including but not limited to, hotel accommodations, transportation, transfers, tours, group equipment and food, permits, and local outfitter services, prior to the cancellation of the program. Additionally, RMI cannot be responsible for any non-refundable expenses the Participant incurred in preparation for the program (i.e., airline tickets, hotel reservations, rental cars, equipment purchases or rentals, etc.).

Once a program begins, there are no refunds or credits for weather-related cancellations or for a program that may end early due to weather, route conditions, or any other circumstances that may compromise the health, safety, or well-being of the group. Furthermore, if the Participant decides for any reason not to begin a program or discontinue a program at any time, no refunds or credits will be issued. The Participant will be responsible for all additional costs associated with an early departure, including but not limited to evacuation, transportation, hotel reservations, meals, etc.

Land Costs are provided as a package, and refunds or credits will not be issued for any unused meals, accommodations, group transportation, or other unused costs. Accommodations are based on double occupancy. A Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those Participants occupying single accommodations either by choice or circumstance. If you are willing to share a room, we will make every effort to pair you with another same-gender team member. We will match willing same-gender team members based on the order of registration date. If we are unable to match you with another same- gender team member, a single supplement fee will be charged. The availability of single accommodations is limited in most of the hotels where we stay, and single accommodations are not available while in the mountains.

The Participant understands and agrees that RMI assumes no responsibility or liability in connection with any travel and hospitality services provided to the Participant by other companies in connection with the program, including but not limited to, the services provided by airlines, hotels, rental cars, and transportation companies. In addition, RMI is not responsible for any act, error, omission, or any injury, loss, accident, delay, irregularity, or danger by a supplier of travel or hospitality services to the Participant in connection with the RMI program. The Participant will be responsible for all costs associated with any travel delays, missed connections, or missing baggage that requires additional arrangements (separate transportation, hotel accommodations, meals, etc.) to be made on your behalf for you or your baggage to rejoin the program.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ecuador's combination of high-altitude glacier climbing, vibrant culture, and two distinct summit objectives generates questions that span the full range of the expedition experience. The answers below address how the climbs operate, what to expect on Cayambe and Cotopaxi specifically, and how to prepare for eleven days in one of South America's most compelling mountain destinations.

The Climbs

How does RMI approach these climbs differently from others so as to maximize the probability of reaching the summit?

We approach the climbs in three notably different ways:

Our tried and true "ascent profile" (i.e., our incremental increase in sleeping altitudes over time to allow for proper acclimatization) is a good match for the length of our trip. This allows the group to be in the best possible condition to go for the summit.

We plan an appropriate amount of climbing and culture for the length of a trip.

Our world-class guides: their leadership and experience make a huge difference and are the primary reason we have so many repeat customers. Check out the RMI Difference on the Description page.

Are there distinctions between climbing in Ecuador in November/February versus June/July?

There are few distinctions. The dates we offer attempt to take advantage of both the best weather and the best snowpack for climbing in Ecuador. You will find that, regardless of the time of year, Cayambe is a substantially more challenging objective than Cotopaxi. Cayambe has historically proven a bit more elusive as its weather is influenced by both the upper Amazon jungle and the Pacific Ocean, whereas Cotopaxi sits in the central highlands zone and receives the greatest number of clear and climbable days per year.

What is a typical summit day like on Cotopaxi?

With an early alpine start, we use the first hour to approach the glacier. A long, initial pitch gains access to an interesting maze of crevasses on the lower slopes of the volcano. The ascent then weaves through impressive crevasse fields before ascending the final steep slopes to the summit crater rim. Climbing time is approximately ten to twelve hours round trip.

What is a typical summit day like on Cayambe?

The route begins by climbing through some low rock outcroppings before stepping onto a spectacularly crevassed glacier. Once on the glacier, the route climbs directly to the upper reaches of the mountain, where a challenging final push to the summit awaits. Cayambe is generally considered the more demanding of the two objectives due to its unpredictable weather patterns.

What is the food like on the mountain?

Our mountain meals are hearty and include fresh local fare where possible. Please see our Food details for an example of meals while on the mountain.

Is the water okay to drink?

We strongly advise against drinking tap water in Ecuador. Both bottled and boiled water are readily available and should be used for drinking water. Personal water filters or water treatment tablets are not needed.

How much weight am I carrying in my pack?

Most days, backpacks should weigh approximately 20 to 25 lb. as we only carry the day's snacks, water, clothing, etc. as needed on our acclimating hikes or summit climbs. The approach to high hut is the only exception. Then we may carry 30 to 40 lb. depending on the amount of group gear needed for the summit attempt.

What is the pace like?

We use an easy to moderate pace throughout the trip, depending on whether we are on an acclimating hike or on a summit climb. While the distances we cover on a daily basis are relatively short, the altitudes to which we travel are very high and the days of hiking and climbing are still challenging. Overall, our guides set a reasonable pace - at the appropriate speed to cover the distance we need that day without going too quickly or too slowly.

What are the huts like?

The Refugio Ruales Oleas Berge at 15,300' on Cayambe and the Refugio Jose Ribas at 16,000' on Cotopaxi are both set in spectacular locations, directly at the start of the climbing routes. They are relatively spacious, have nice cooking areas/kitchens, as well as latrines away from the main sleeping quarters. The Cotopaxi hut is comprised of larger dormitory style rooms, with multiple bunks per room, while the Cayambe hut is comprised of smaller, separated rooms, also with bunk arrangements.

What are the toilets like?

Basic pit-toilets are available near the huts on Cayambe and Cotopaxi. On our acclimating hikes and summit climbs, where no toilets exist, we use bio-bags to collect our solid waste so that it may be transported off of the mountain. We recommend that you bring hand sanitizer to use after visiting the toilets.

Safety and Travel

Is it safe to travel in Ecuador?

We hold the perspective that travel to Ecuador (and any developing nation) includes risk, but not high risk. In order to safeguard our trips:

We have hired a professional tour operator to coordinate our in-country logistics. We hire local guides familiar with the language, roads, customs, etc. We follow popular tourist thoroughfares, using private vehicles (not public transportation). We travel in groups and have tourist safety protocols in place (not flashing cash, not wearing expensive jewelry, etc.). Our guides are well-versed with our program and are accustomed to travel in a foreign country. Take some time to visit the consular and travel warning pages at the U.S. Department of State. These pages offer good information and should be revisited occasionally as trip departure dates approach.

Do I need a visa to travel to Ecuador?

No. US citizens do not require a visa to enter Ecuador. A valid passport is required and must be valid for at least six months beyond your expected return date. US passport holders may stay up to 90 days without a visa.

Is travel insurance required?

Yes. RMI strongly recommends comprehensive travel insurance that includes emergency medical evacuation coverage. Confirm that your policy covers high-altitude mountaineering and glacier climbing activities before purchasing.

What vaccinations or health precautions should I consider before traveling to Ecuador?

We recommend consulting your doctor or a travel medicine clinic well in advance of departure for current recommendations. For the most current information on inoculation requirements and recommendations, please refer to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Staying Connected

How will I be able to stay connected with those at home?

We suggest bringing a smart phone or a WIFI-enabled device and using it where WIFI and internet services are available, as in Quito. On the climbs, however, WIFI access is not available. Cell service is widely available across most of Ecuador.

Should I bring a cell phone?

Sure, cell phone coverage is generally available in and around towns. Check with your cell phone carrier to see if they offer international coverage in Ecuador and make sure you have the appropriate international plans and understand the associated rates. RMI carries a satellite phone with the group through the entire trip for emergency use.

Do iPhones function well at high altitude?

Yes. However, the cold can impact the battery life making it necessary for it to be charged a few times on the trip.

Is a Kindle or Nook practical on this trip?

Yes, but if you wish to take it up on the mountain you will likely need to recharge it once in a while. We recommend downloading all of your desired books before arriving in Ecuador.

Money and Logistics

What currency is used in Ecuador?

Ecuador uses the US dollar, which simplifies budgeting for American travelers. We recommend budgeting $500 to $700 total for personal spending including meals, drinks, pocket money, and the Support Staff Tip Pool.

How much should I tip?

Local waiters, drivers, and service personnel typically expect ten to fifteen percent. Some restaurants and hotels add a 10% service fee to bills in which case no further tip is required. We recommend each participant contribute $150 to the Support Staff Tip Pool at the beginning of the trip to cover group tips for local support staff throughout the program. Guide gratuities are at your discretion and typically average ten to fifteen percent of the program cost for excellent service.

What is the electricity situation in Ecuador?

Electricity in Ecuador is the same as in the United States: the ungrounded two-prong plug is used for 110 volt, 60 hertz appliances. Appliances with three prongs or an enlarged prong will require an adaptor.

Reviews

Climbers rated RMI with an average of 5 stars across 0 ratings

Climber reviews of the Cayambe and Cotopaxi expedition consistently reflect what makes this program stand out: the quality of the guiding on both peaks, the depth of the cultural experience woven into the itinerary, and the satisfaction of standing on two summits above 18,000 feet in eleven days. Participants frequently highlight the expertise of the local Ecuadorian guides alongside the RMI team, the progressive acclimatization that sets them up for success on Cotopaxi, and the unexpected richness of exploring Quito and the Otavalo Market between objectives. For many climbers, Ecuador is the international expedition that exceeds every expectation.

July 17, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

I enjoyed the well balanced mix of challenging climbs with comfortable accommodations during the rest between climbs/hikes. The Otavalo market was great.

Hans S

July 15, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

Acclimatization hikes were amazing and sported some of the best views and sights of the trip. Food was great. Guides were fantastic and we were lucky we had a great group. The non Quito sleeping locations were amazing with great food and local culture.

John J

July 15, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

Mike Walter was a fantastic guide! Getting to know the other climbers was great as well, and the Hacienda's we stayed in were incredible too.

Mark F

July 13, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

always a balance for me between the climbing and the overall experience with the other climbers and guides. This trip was a big undertaking for me and it proved to be worth all the effort.

Chuck H

March 3, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

I enjoyed the group dynamics and the way as a group we overcame challenges and were looking out for one another. It was a true team effort in many ways.

Neil Y

February 21, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

I really liked the combination of culture and climbing on this trip. I also liked that we had several days of acclimatization before tackling Cayembe.

Jason F

February 4, 2015

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

I have now done a Rainier trip and this past Ecuador trip and all guides that I have encountered have been nothing short of excellent in every way - from knowledge and advice, to traveling the countryside, to the actual guiding on the mountain during summit days. It is more than obvious that RMI holds their guides to a very high standard and it is much appreciated!

Thomas M

December 29, 2014

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

It was a vacation, not just a climb. We did so much more that I hadn't expected.

Courtney D

December 28, 2014

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

Excellent leadership and confidence in Casey. Beautiful Ecuador and good local knowledge.

Dale C

December 28, 2014

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

The itinerary was well-planned to allow for acclimatization and to allow us to see the country and the people not just climb the mountains.

Tim R

July 4, 2014

Cayambe and Cotopaxi - Ecuador

I enjoyed the whole mix of the trip: climbing, hiking, site seeing, shopping at the market, great dining. It gave us a chance to experience the wonderful culture of the Ecuadorian Andes.

Chris L