We had just arrived at Incachiriaska pass — over 16,000 ft. Everyone was sitting on the rocky ridge, breathing deeply after a big climb to get there. The guides were constantly reminding people to be careful and thoughtful with movement since both sides of the pass opened up into expansive views (and big falls lines.)

Edgar was just beginning to tell us about how the Andean people believe the mountains are holy. We had all picked up a rock on the way up. The bigger the rock for the bigger the sinner, Edgar joked. (Some of us even carried multiple rocks. Are we overachievers or perhaps have much to atone for? Who’s to say.)

But just as Edgar started to speak, a soaring condor flew, I kid you not, 20 feet above us through the pass. As if he was looking right at us, as if he was saying some important message to each of us that we needed to hear.

You could tell it was special because Edgar, who has lived his whole life in these mountains and been guiding for more than 20 years, stood in awe. His eyes wide as he whispered, “stay quiet.”

We watched as the massive bird sailed through the air, we watched as he in both an instant and an eternity soared away.

The feeling of awe is ever-present here but in that moment it was felt deeply. Nobody moved. Nobody spoke. We just stood there, sixteen thousand feet up, watching.

We stayed a little longer at the pass, creating a stack of all our carried rocks as an offering to Pachamama. The condor continued to circle back a time or two but never as close as the first time.

Soon, we packed our bags, lengthened our trekking poles for the steep scree below and started our long descent to camp. We moved down and down nearly 4,000 vertical feet, back into soft grasses and birds chirping and the water rushing next to us. After many miles and hours, we arrived at our camp at 12,000ft.

The air is thicker, the temps are warmer and with full bellies from another delicious dinner, we tucked into our tents for the night. But not without the seared memory in our minds of the condor so close it felt like we were friends.

What a world.

- RMI Guide Jess and the Machu Picchu team