Entries By mike haugen

Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit - July 31st!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Mike Haugen | July 31, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Garrett Stevens and Elias de Andres Martos reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 7 am this morning with 100% of their team members.  The teams reported very cold and windy conditions.  They will spend a bit of time on the summit and then descend to Camp Muir.  After a short rest to repack and refuel they will continue their descent to Paradise.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

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Mt. Rainier: July 26th Update

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Solveig Waterfall, Mike Haugen, Win Whittaker | July 26, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported warm temperatures with winds at about 15 mph.  They spent over an hour on the summit enjoying the views before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir.

After a week of Denali Prep training, Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Kautz team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning with 100% of their team. They have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

The American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air is ascending to Camp Muir today with Win Whittaker as their lead guide.  He sent us a photo of the team’s climbing school from yesterday.  What beautiful weather the teams have been climbing in!

The ALA climb enjoying a beautiful day at Paradise yesterday. Photo: Win Whittaker 7/26/2013 - View of Mt. Rainier from Paradise. Photo: Mt. Rainier NP Webcam
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Mt. Rainier: July 17th Update

Posted by: Brent Okita, Lindsay Mann, Mike Haugen, Garrett Stevens | July 17, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita & Lindsay Mann were unable to summit this morning due to a lightning storm.  The teams headed out of Camp Muir on two separate occasions but both times retreated to Camp Muir because of the weather.  They will descend from Camp Muir around 9 a.m.  We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit yesterday morning and returned to their high camp for a final night on the mountain.  This morning they are descending to Paradise and will return to Rainier BaseCamp.

RMI Guide Garrett Stevens and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise weathered the storm on the mountain last night in tents.  They will be drying out today and doing more training near their camp.  Tomorrow they will ascend to Camp Muir and get ready for their summit attempt.

Calm before the storm. Double rainbow over the Paradise Glacier. Photo: Garrett Stevens

Mt. Rainier: July 16th Update

Posted by: Jason Thompson, Paul Maier, Mike Haugen | July 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led By Paul Edgren and Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  The team reported a beautiful day with clear views and winds at about 25 – 30 mph.  They also reported that the route work recently done made for great climbing.

The Kautz seminar led by Mike Haugen also checked in this morning. The team topped out via the Kautz Route and began their descent at 9:15 a.m.  Mike and team will stay on the mountain one more night and be back to Ashford tomorrow.

The Paradise Glacier Seminar led by Garrett Stevens is on day 3 of their 6-day seminar.  They will spend two more days lower on the mountain before moving up to Camp Muir for their summit bid.

Beautiful day on the mountain!

Climber rappelling the Kautz Ice Chute. Photo: RMI Collection A beautiful afternoon at Camp 1, 7,300' on the Paradise Glacier. Photo: Garrett Stevens ESS Paradise Glacier team practicing rope travel as they moved up to Camp 2 earlier today. Photo: Garrett Stevens
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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back in Talkeetna!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | July 06, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 346'

Saturday, July 6th, 2013 at 1:50 a.m. PST
We made it!
We stomped a runway.
Ate breakfast.
Went like Vikings to raid a cache (unsuccessfully).
Made two hours of quesadillas.
Packed up camp for incoming airplane.
Listened as incoming airplane went away.
Made camp again.
Made dinner.
Packed up camp as planes came back.
Flew back to civilization!!
Pizza.
Welcome home!

RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono and the RMI Summit Team 6

The RMI June 11, 2013 team celebrating their return to Talkeetna! Photo: Mike Haugen

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Still Chillin at Basecamp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | July 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday, July 4, 2013
It has been like a sunny beach vacation…except if it were sunny we would have flown far away from this particular snowy beach days ago. The snow keeps coming a bit harder and the forecast says through Sunday now. Could be worse; we have plenty of food, fuel, and great conversations!
RMI Guide Mike Uchal made almost five hours worth of pancakes in a continuous stream for most of the camp. We have a small backlog of climbers around us. There are not many new climbers in basecamp since the weather has prohibited much movement on the mountain from any of the different camps.

RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team - Ground Hog’s Day

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | July 04, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Wednesday, July 3, 2013
We woke up today to more of the same conditions at McKinley Basecamp. At least with these conditions, there is no waiting around to see if we are going to fly. There is always tomorrow!
We took a walk down to the lower airstrip to stretch our legs a bit.
With plenty of food and gas, at least we are eating well! The morale is still good and the team is hanging in strong while missing our loved ones (and real food).

RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

Mt. McKinley, 20,320'.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Remain at Basecamp

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | July 03, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Still here in base camp in case you were wondering. It is snowing with poor visibility. There were some “sucker holes” in the clouds that gave us some false hope at midday today.
We did get out and get some exercise today. Everyone in camp that is waiting to fly got on their skis/snowshoes and stomped down a runway in the snow. We all took it quite seriously since we want the airstrip to be ready when the weather is good enough to fly!
Everyone is happy and healthy and ready to be off the mountain. Cross your fingers!

RMI Mt. McKinley Summit Team 6

P.S. Lance wants his girls to know he loves them and will be home soon.
P.S.S. Steve will call Tania, mom and dad, & Bill and Lisa as soon as he is off the mountain.

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Waiting for Flight to Talkeetna

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | July 01, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Sunday, June 30, 2013
After waking up at 2 in the morning and making a massive push to get to the landing strip, we are stuck in freezing rain with no hope for a flight today.

Peter- Cannot wait to see my loving wife and daughter Maggie. Had a great trip!

Grasshopper- Dream realized. Love to everyone!

Cindy- Thanks for all of the great comments!  Maija, the Internet code is Zootrubie :)

Sandra- Cant wait for Thanksgiving in Hawaii!

Quinn- Save my seat on the couch. Give everyone a hug! See you all soon.

Lance- Cannot wait to see my three girls! Kisses to all.

Steve- To Bill and Lisa, where are the gluten free Pop Tarts? Tania, can’t wait to see you as soon as possible my darling!

Uchal- family : I love you all so much and thank you for the understanding and support. I can’t wait to see everyone when I get back. I have decided to leave NC this winter so I can spend more time in Roc City. Keep the couches open - I am coming home.

Katie- To Mom and Dad, love you and miss you.  See you soon!

Haugen- Love you Amber, Paris, Paige, Brigitte, Jack, Alex! I love you mom and dad and I for sure owe you a Halibut dinner!! Thank you all for the blog comments!

A view of the NE Fork Kahiltna Glacier.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team To Thicker Air

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono | June 30, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, June 29th, 2013
After a good sleep, we woke up and started packing. The goal for the day was to get as low and as far as possible to set us up for flying off the mountain tomorrow. The crux of the walk out is timing the walk out on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. We have to walk across this part while the snow bridges over the crevasses are frozen. This means a late night/early morning walk to the air strip. We made it all the way to 11k Camp so we are set up to walk the glacier at the right time…as long as we only sleep for two hours!
Wish us luck and good weather so we can fly tomorrow!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

P.S. Grasshopper wants to thank Annie and Rose for the support and sacrifices!

An RMI 11,200' Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

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