Entries from Expedition Dispatches
May 22, 2018
Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 7:45 PM PT
Another day of beautiful weather let us descend back down to ~10,200’ to dig up our cache of supplies and haul it back up to our 11,000’ camp. The rest of the day was spent hydrating, resting, and preparing for the next step of this climb: establishing a cache at ~13,700’, just past Windy Corner. If the weather holds, that will be our plan for tomorrow.
We’re making good progress now, and we are all excited to exchange snowshoes for crampons and trekking poles for ice axes. Stay tuned as our progress continues.
On The Map
I hope the weather Gods are good to you this year. If you have room in your packs going down, rather than throw all that valuable stool down a crevasse, ship some to me for my fecal transplants. Business is booming.
Buenas suerte amigo.
Posted by: Dr Dave on 5/23/2018 at 5:40 pm
Hello Dave Head, Shane Kidd and Team hello from Las Vegas we love you guys so proud and love you stay safe we will continue to pray for your safety and good weather KEEP ROCKING !! you got his.
Love Mom and Dad #2
Posted by: Ken peterson on 5/23/2018 at 1:42 pm
May 22, 2018
Our day in Talkeenta progressed at a pretty leisurely pace. We started off with our orientation at the National Park Service after a visit to the coffee shop, and followed that with brunch at the Talkeetna Roadhouse, lest old traditions fail. Then it was into gear: double checking everything we brought, sorting, and packing for the plane flight to Kahiltna Base Camp. With our bags weighed and stacked, ready to be loaded into the Otters, we have done all we can do. It’s in the hands of the pilots and weather now. We will head out to town for dinner, and hope to wake up to clear skies and flying weather!
We’ll keep you posted,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team
You will see majesty at it’s best and definitely understand the creation set before each step of the way to the top! It will be a few weeks of amazing discoveries. Know that you have prayers being sent out for you from So. California. Love and Hugs! (Danny’s parents)
Posted by: Karen Haleen on 5/23/2018 at 6:23 am
Good luck! We will be watching your progress.
Posted by: Kristi and Jill Snow on 5/23/2018 at 5:27 am
May 22, 2018
Monday, May 21, 2018 - 11:51 PM PT
Our upward progress on Denali continues, this time moving camp up to 11,200’. Snow and weather conditions were near perfect with scattered clouds, a few snow flakes, and a light breeze to keep us cool.
Now that we’ve established a nice camp here, our plan is to go back to 10,000’ tomorrow to pick up our cache of supplies; this will set us up for moving up onto the upper mountain. Everyone is doing well and we’re hoping the good weather continues.
On The Map
I hope you’re enjoying Denali! Looks like an awesome trip.
Posted by: Kevin O’Donnell on 5/23/2018 at 11:03 am
Hi Alex and Tom. Hope you well and warm. Miss you. Love you lots. Be safe. Love Mom
Posted by: Pauline Reiher on 5/22/2018 at 8:20 pm
Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 11:56 PM PT
The weather forecast for today was for 70% chance of snow. And, while I guess they got it right, we only saw light flurries for about an hour. The rest of the day was scattered clouds with great views of the Alaska Range. At times the sun was so strong that the heat was stifling. That didn’t stop our team from having a successful carry day, bringing supplies up to ~10,200’. Now we have returned to our camp at the base of Ski Hill (7800’) for the night. Tomorrow, if the weather allows we plan to move camp higher, to 11,200. We’ll keep you posted.
Joseph, it has become my morning routine to look at the updates and it’s so exciting to see the pictures and read about the progress you guys are making. I hope you’re having a blast. Be safe!
p.s. Hope you didn’t forget the matches :)
Posted by: Attila Incze on 5/21/2018 at 7:45 pm
Hey Alex and Tom-
Glad to hear you are on the mountain!! I’ve been riding Tom’s new bike every day…. just kidding! On a serious note, I plan to take your recycling out tonight…. so you can sleep well knowing that its taken care of!
Good luck… safe journey!
Posted by: Neil on 5/21/2018 at 3:50 pm
May 21, 2018
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Christina Dale led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Dave reported a perfect day on the mountain. Both teams saw 100% of their climbers reach the top today. They will spend some time enjoying the views then begin their descent to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise.
Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!
Esooooooo!!!!!! Felicidades Kenji, Ronald y Tony!!!!
Mi esposo superheroe, sumamente orgullosa de ti! Mientras mas grande el reto, mas grande te haces!!! TE AMAMOS!! - Gaby, Kensuke y Seina
Posted by: Gabriela on 5/21/2018 at 5:00 pm
Wooohoo!!!! Congrats Maria and Joyce!
Posted by: Robin on 5/21/2018 at 11:22 am
May 20, 2018
Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 1:12 a.m. PDT
The squirrely weather persists on Denali. It snowed all night last night, but fortunately we only picked up 4 inches or so. We woke up to more snow, wind, and very limited visibility. After breakfast we slowly started to pack up camp, hoping the weather would improve. Around noon the weather finally improved so we packed up our tents and rigged up our ropes.
By the time we were ready to walk, the weather was back its former, stormy self. We decided to give it a try and if conditions worsened we would make camp down on the Kahiltna Glacier and at least make some progress on the mountain. It was a good call because we made it all the way to Camp 2, at the base of Ski Hill (7,800’). We were in a ping pong ball most of the day—navigating using the wands marking the route, faint traces of other parties’ tracks, GPS, and a little Braille (well, maybe not Braille). Our navigation techniques worked and we cruised into camp in 5 hours flat!
Tomorrow the plan is to carry and cache supplies higher on the route and then return to our current camp. This will make for lighter loads when we move camp later this week and will help our acclimatization process.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
On The Map
Thinking about you Alex, Tom, and team. So happy to hear you are safe and making progress, thx for the updates!
Posted by: Sarah Flynn on 5/21/2018 at 7:22 am
Nice action photo, Thank you! Glad to learn that Team Water is now underway. My best wishes to the entire team, and a special Hello to Tom M -you’re all in my thoughts.
Stay safe, stay strong & thrive.
Posted by: Jacquie on 5/21/2018 at 12:26 am
May 20, 2018
The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika reached the summit just before 7:30 am. Brent reported 10-15 mph winds and partly sunny conditions on the summit. The teams spent an hour on the summit before starting their descent. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations Kevin, Matthew and Timo!! Wow. Can’t wait to hear the story
Posted by: Jan & Brian on 5/20/2018 at 10:34 am
So proud of you babe! Can’t wait to hear all about it and see the pictures! Love you Logan!
Posted by: Kaitlyn Hugmeyer on 5/20/2018 at 10:21 am
May 19, 2018
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Andy reported clear skies, cold temperatures and great route conditions. The team will spend some time on the Summit before starting their descent.
Congratulations to today’s team!
So proud of you babe! Can’t wait to hear about it and see the pictures! Love you Logan!
Posted by: Kaitlyn Hugmeyer on 5/20/2018 at 8:45 am
Congratulations Kevin! Well done! Can’t wait to hear the story
Posted by: Jan and brian on 5/20/2018 at 7:14 am
May 19, 2018
The weather cleared up just long enough for K2 Aviation to fly our team to Base Camp in two de Haviland Otter airplanes. The window didn’t last long and soon it socked in and began to lightly snow. We set up camp and lounged around for the rest of the afternoon. Tomorrow the plan is to pack up and move camp to the base of Ski Hill.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
That is one Helluva “Ski Hill” . My wife JoAnn and I overnighted in Talkeetna with K2 Aviation and took a flight up to Denali over the dramatically crevassed glaciers in 1993. JoAnn then went back as a Cruise ship excursion in 2000 with her three sisters. Looking up is as close to climbing in Ice and snow as I want to be, although I summitted Mt Whitney in 1986 on Father’s Day ant took a photo with a banner I had made saying “Happy Fathers Day” to give to my father. I piloted a Cessna 172 from Torrence, CA with two other “Climbers” for that “Attempt”. We had tried in May, a month before, but were chased off the mountain after one night in a tent by a major snowstorm. Hopefully you get good weather so you can have views up there. We all look forward to more from you.
Posted by: Paul Claeyssens on 5/20/2018 at 6:02 am
Go for it and be safe.
Posted by: Garland Dobson (PAPPY) on 5/19/2018 at 3:44 pm
May 17, 2018
The weather in Alaska is still unsettled, and our team remains on standby for clearing skies and a chance to fly into the Alaska Range. The weather improved for a bit this morning and we packed up the planes, two de Havilland Otters, donned our climbing clothes and boots, and loaded up the planes. But before we even got going, we received word that the weather shut down and snow had returned to Base Camp.
So now we are back to the Talkeetna hang as we wait for conditions to improve. We are all eager to start this expedition, but we realize that patience is imperative, as the weather is out of our control. This patience with the weather will be important to maintain throughout this entire trip; I’ll bet we see more of it over the next few weeks.
I’ll keep you posted if we get to fly this afternoon and, if not, then we’ll play the game again tomorrow.