Entries By peter whittaker
Posted by: Peter Whittaker
Categories: Guide News Mountain Resource Hub Mountain “Guides”
The mountains lost a legend this week.
To the climbing community, Jim Whittaker’s impact is immeasurable. To us at RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering, it was foundational.
Jim was Lou’s twin brother, and their shared love of the mountains shaped American alpinism in ways that still echo today.
Rest easy, Jim. We hope you and Lou are climbing something beautiful.
Posted by: Joe Horiskey, Peter Whittaker
Categories: Guide News Everest 50 Years of Climbing
Expedition leader Lou Whittaker and several members of the 1982 China-Everest Expedition gathered on May 18, 2022, to commemorate the climb’s 40-year anniversary and pay homage to Marty Hoey, our dear friend and fellow RMI guide, who lost her life on the trip. May 18, was Marty’s birthday. Marty’s 90-some years young mom, Mar, was in attendance along with Everest team members Eric Simonson, Dan Boyd, Joe Horiskey, and Jim Wickwire. Marty, 31 at the time of her death, was a tenured RMI guide attempting to become the first American woman to summit Everest. Marty started guiding on Mt Rainier in the early 70’s, and led expeditions to Denali, Aconcagua, and the Fairweather Range in Alaska. A Memorial honoring Marty and 1963 Everest climber Lute Jerstad is located on the Gig Harbor waterfront at the Bogue Viewing Platform, http://www.cityofgigharbor.net/177/Bogue-Viewing-Platform. Others in attendance included Peter and Kerry Whittaker, Lou’s wife Ingrid, Joe’s wife Marjorie, John Kalbrener, Kip Kalbrener, Leslie Kalbrener, LeRoy Kingland, Randy & Kathy Sackett, Tori Withington, Mary Martha, Craig Reininger, and Christopher Lynch. Christopher’s dad Jerry co-founded RMI with Lou Whittaker in 1969.
May 18, 1980, is notorious, of course, for the eruption of Mt. St. Helens. Pete and Joe recalled their learning of the event while tent-bound in a blizzard at 14,000’ on Denali. Unfortunately, it was to be our ‘high point’ on that particular Denali climb.
Of personal significance is that May 18, 1974, RMI guides John Kalbrener, Laury (Ape) Bye, and Joe Horiskey reached the summit of Denali for the first time! 18 days to the summit and 2 days down. Cliff Hudson flew us off the mountain, we jumped into our waiting 1965 Mustang (prepared to drive back down the Al Can Highway), and immediately ran out of gas! Ray Genet saved our bacon, offering a syphon hose and inviting us to take all we wanted!
Our get-together in Gig Harbor yesterday was a memorable and fitting tribute to a special day, May 18.
RMI Guide and Owner Joe Horiskey
Marty was my roommate at u of w in 1971. I stayed in touch via letters periodically The main option at that time. I have a note she sent to me from the summit at 10,000’ I think it was. She died the day after I got married. My mom sent me the clipping from the S F Chronicle. I never forget our friendship
Posted by: Diane Brosin on 3/2/2026 at 10:24 pm
I met Lou, and Marty, at base camp on Everest in 1982. I was part of the British Everest Expedition, led by Chris Bonington, which also lost two climbers, Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman, both of whom were well-known mountaineers (Boardman had previously summited Everest once). Would love to share notes or memories with anyone who was there.
Here’s a link to some of my snapshots from that trip. https://qamera.smugmug.com/Galleries/British-Everest-Expedition
Posted by: Michael Jardine on 8/26/2025 at 6:38 pm
100% Summit Success!
RMI Guide Peter Whittaker and his entire team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Peter reported light winds, a beautiful sunrise, and a stellar route thanks to the hard work from RMI Route Workers.
Congratulations team!
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
great great fun hugs!!!you are the best1ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!-GRACE
Nice work, Hun! We love you! Have a safe drive home. Call when you can. -Cory
Posted by: Cory Hatch and Grace Hatch on 7/12/2019 at 3:51 pm
Woo Hoo!!! Way to go, all, and big hugs to Amy.
Posted by: Nancy on 7/12/2019 at 1:59 pm
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 19,348'
On The Map
Big congratulations to the whole team !!!!
Will the friends in NY WA beieve this adventure ?
Did Steve have the NBBJ flag ?
Posted by: Bob & Jan McConnell on 1/9/2019 at 10:04 pm
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 12,000'
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,100'
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
I went to the top of Rainier with RMI in June, 1979. It was one of the most memorable experiences of my life. Thanks to the Whittaker family for everything.
Posted by: Joe Schneider on 4/13/2026 at 6:49 pm
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