Entries By leif bergstrom

Here's one more haiku,

The otters finally flew

We have made it back.

After a few long days sitting and waiting in our tents at Basecamp, K2 Aviation was able to make their way up glacier to come and grab our teams and sneak us back to Talkeetna last night.

We unpacked all the group gear, took our first shower in a long time, and got to enjoy a hot meal not prepared by an RMI guide.

After a long and challenging trip, we were all very thankful to make it back to land safe and sound.

Until next year!

Nikki

June 3, 2023 10:48 am PDT

We woke up to snow,

Was hoping to be in town,

More freeze dried it is.

June 2, 2023 10:01 pm PDT

The planes come and go,

but we are still here waiting,

tomorrow we fly?

RMI Guides Nikki, Leif, Lauren & Team

June 2, 2023, 11:39 am PDT

Yesterday we woke up to clear skies, but the clouds and snow quickly made their way in. A few planes snuck in, but we were unable to make our way back to Talkeetna. So we sit, and continue to wait for our weather window to get off the Kahiltna Glacier and return to Talkeetna, beds, and showers. Until then we keep eating our snacks and watching movies.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and team

Short and sweet dispatch for now. We didn't get the summit window weather we were hoping for, so we packed up and headed down to basecamp. Now we are sitting in the snow, seeing if we can fly.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 10:55 pm PT

Yet another weather day, we woke up to snow covered tents and cold temperatures. We had our final bagel meal of the trip, paired with smoked salmon. As we sat in and out of the clouds, and snowfall we waited for the other RMI teams to descend from 17,000' Camp. Tomorrow morning marks a decision point. We need a three day weather window to open up before Thursday for us, otherwise we run out of food at 14,000' Camp, and then have to go retrieve our cache from 16,300' and then eat our summit food. Leaving us out of food if a summit window did open up later. Tomorrow morning we should have clarity if Wednesday, Thursday, Friday will be a viable option. The other tricky component is a very large system seems to be slated to hit the mountain Friday, bringing more snow and more wind. This storm could run it's course as late as next Tuesday or so. Leaving us completely out of food by the time weather improves. All that said, with an updated forecast tomorrow morning we may make the call to either go for it, or to grab the cache and get out so we don't get stuck for the entire storm. We will check in tomorrow with whatever we hear!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Monday, May 29, 2023 - 11:12 pm PT

Another, you guessed it, weather day for us. As it snowed almost all night, we slept in and had a slow breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and we had very little visibility around camp. Folks did normal rest day activities, like walk around camp, meet other teams, rebuild our bathroom into a new palace and change out our socks. We are waiting for a three day weather window to make our way safely to 17,000', to the summit, and home. Until then we continue to check all the weather resources we have available, and try to stay sane.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 10:20 pm PT

It was a mellow rest day in our neck of the woods at 14,000ft. What started as a clear warm morning turned into a stormy, snowy whiteout by early afternoon. We began the day with another round of breakfast burritos, and finished the day off with mac and cheese. The weather doesn't look too favorable, so now we just sit and wait to see what we get.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

May 27, 2023 10:29PM PT

Today we woke up to brutal cold, and clear skies. We blasted the stoves and rolled into a late morning of granola.

After watching Mike and Pete's teams roll out of camp, we followed suite and began our way up the steep corridor to the base of the fixed lines. We shortened up the rope internals, set up our ascenders, and made our way up the final 700' vertical feet of blue ice to the saddle on the west buttress. Right around 16,100, we crested the buttress and made our way up to our cache site near 16,300'.

After digging a cache hole in the world’s firmest snow, we turned around and made our way back to 14 camp for a late dinner of ramen.

Everyone worked hard and is looking forward to a well-deserved rest day tomorrow.

Nikki, Leif, Lauren and Team

Thrusday 5/25/2023 10:57pm PDT

What a beautiful day for a rest day. We had a leisurely brunch of breakfast burritos before spending the afternoon building our kitchen for the next few days and learning all the skills necessary for the fixed lines. The weather looks a bit gross tomorrow, so we prepped camp by battening down the hatches and building snow block walls. We are hoping to carry to the top of the fixed lines as soon as weather allows. We will wake up tomorrow and see if that is the day.

RMI Guides Nikki, Leif, Lauren & Team

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 11:03 pm PT

Another big day in the books. After waking up to snow lightly falling at our 11,000ft camp, we had a quick breakfast and began breaking down camp. Around 10:30AM we finally began our way up Motorcycle Hill. At the top of Squirrel Hill we were met by some brutal winds and blowing snow. We worked across the Polo field, adding layers to combat the wind and blowing snow and worked our way through Windy Corner. After Windy Corner, luckily the winds died down and we were able to roll into 14,000' Camp in slightly better conditions. We joined the other RMI teams, and built our camp before making a rewarding dinner of ramen. Weather looks a bit moody tomorrow, good thing we've got a rest day on the docket.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion