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Entries By andy bond

Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Turns at 13,200’

The Five Day Climb led by Andy Bond reached 13,200' on Mt. Rainier. The team turned around due to route conditions. They are back at Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradase later today.

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Rainier: Bond, Burns & Team Conclude Week of Training

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir team led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Seth Burns has concluded their week of training and returned to Paradise.  Although the weather threw a few curves at them, the team was able to get in lots of training including cramponing, glacier travel, ice climbing, rappelling, and crevasse rescue. We can probably consider it winter camping as well. They endured some cold temperatures but also enjoyed some beautiful sunrises and sunshine.

Nice work team!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Climb to Ingraham Flats

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Andy Bond and Leif Bergstrom climbed to Ingraham Flats today. The teams were above the smoke and enjoyed a wonderful sunrise. While at the Flats the team learned crevasse rescue and did some ice climbing. The team will finish up their training soon and return to Paradise later this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Someone add 10 extra pounds to Sara’s pack and DON’T TELL HER!!  Good luck to everyone.

Posted by: Dwight on 8/21/2023 at 1:33 pm

Best of luck to all the group especially my son, Heath Scheibmeir.  Enjoy the wonders of your trip and above all STAY SAFE!  GOD BLESS YOU ALL!

Posted by: Joni Y Thummel on 8/20/2023 at 8:49 am

Mt. Rainier: Bond, Wedel & Teams Watch Meteors Filling the Sky during their climb

The Four Day Climb August 11 - 14 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Jess Wedel reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 5 am today.  Andy reported a beautiful morning climbing in base layers with no winds and meteors filling the sky as they climbed toward the summit. 

Congratulations to the team!


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Your prep and hard work are blessed with such a spectacular view!  Awesome!

Posted by: Ron on 8/19/2023 at 2:58 pm

Congratulations to the team on your Summit climb today!!

What a awesome accomplishment for each of you!

Posted by: Evans on 8/14/2023 at 7:32 pm

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Turned Back by Winds

The Four Day Climb August 7 - 10 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond & Jess Wedel did not reach the summit today due to gusty winds.  The teams left Camp Muir on their alpine start but turned around at Ingraham Flats due to wind.  The teams returned to Camp Muir and climbed Muir peak to enjoy the sunrise. Photos above are from RMI Guide Calvin Jiricko.

The teams plan to descend from Camp Muir after 9 am today.  We expect them to return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Denali Expedition: A Final Note from Bond & Team

June 25, 2023 10:00am PT

It seems surreal that just 24 hours ago we were sitting on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier with our fingers crossed for flyable weather. Kahiltna International Airport (KIA) could have just as easily been our home for the next week but instead we slept easily and comfortably on real mattresses for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. Today and only today the weather cooperated for us to make our escape. How did we get here? Let me tell you...

24 hours prior to the 24 hours that we just experienced...

We woke up to a mix of clouds and sunshine at 14k Camp and casually dismantled camp and packed up all our things. The weather and clouds mostly stayed below us with an occasional surge of precip and wind at camp. The walk down to 11k Camp was uneventful other than a quick reunion with Dominic Cifelli and Dave Hahn's respective RMI climbing teams. High fives were had but we kept moving, we had a timeline to meet.

Once at a 11k Camp again we located our cache, set up tents, made water and ate dinner. The clouds rolled in and out of 11 Camp like the tide on the shore. Like the tide, what was in the clouds was wet and gross. After "napping" for around 3 hours, we "woke up" at 9:30pm to get moving again to catch the lower glacier in its most stable and frozen condition. 

Sadly, the cloud we walked into below 11 Camp was hovering around 33 degrees and raining. The team was quickly covered in a layer of ice and rime. Everything - backpacks, trekking poles, goggles, jackets, pants, were incased in a 1/4 cm of ice. We trudged for several hours through this freezing rain. Eventually we got below the cloud, and everyone shed their icy armor that had accumulated. After a break at the bottom of Ski Hill to recover our cache (and thaw out), we resumed trudging on the lower Kahiltna.

A simple 3 more hours of trudging in what ended up being a fairly direct path across the Kahiltna glacier, we arrived at Heart Break Hill. It was time for the final hour of uphill that must be ascended to return to the airstrip. The team's morale stayed high, and hearts stayed unbroken. We made quick work of Heart Break Hill. Shortly after 5am, we were back at the airstrip; 19 days had elapsed since we were last here. It seemed surreal to be back. Even more surreal the weather continued to cooperate, the cloud ceiling stayed high, the sun showed itself briefly! Around 8:45am the drone of a K2 Turbo Otter was heard. 24 hours after leaving 14k Camp, we were picked up in the most wonderful red plane you've ever seen and whisked back to civilization, Talkeetna. 

Everyone has been awake for 24-36 hours at the time of writing this. There is still much clean up and packing to do before we can sleep.

The trip is over, but our memories and experiences will last a lifetime. This is the final blog from The Bond Girls. If you want to know more, contact your loved ones, they have service now! Even if they're pretending they don't...


The Bond Girls

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Reading the first sentence, the unplugged acoustic version of the Ramones’ “I Wanna Be Sedated” started playing in my head as soundtrack and accompaniment.  Reading what the Bond Girls had to do to get to the plane from 14k, I would say they are the real rockstars.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/25/2023 at 11:55 am

Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Return to Basecamp

Saturday, June 24, 2023 7:39 am PDT

We’re at Basecamp and I think there is a good chance we will fly. We’ll let everyone know when we arrive in Talkeetna.

Friday, June, 23, 2023 8:28 pm PDT

The crew descended down to 11,000’ Camp where we will depart for basecamp during the night in hopes of flying off the mountain Saturday.

The weather has not been all that kind to us on this trip and we are in and out of snow as clouds stream up the Kahiltna glacier up and over Kahiltna pass. We’re hoping for flyable weather tomorrow but know that no one has flown off the mountain since Monday. Hopefully the next time you here from us, we’ll Be in Talkeetna!

RMI Guide Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship and Team

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What a disappointment! This will make a third strike and out for eel/camel! Now the next time he sees a Denali will be when he visits us in Washington and our Alaskan Malamute, named Denali, will greet him at the front door. Time to move on my son.

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 6/24/2023 at 9:30 am

Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Turn at 16,800’ Due to Avalanche Risk

Friday, June 23, 2023, 8:40 am PDT

Our Team is back at 14,000’ Camp after a long day of waist to chest trail breaking and ultimately avalanche conditions on the West Buttress. We made it to Washburn’s Thumb at 16,800’, all pickets were buried and not found except for the ones near slopes that naturally avalanche. The Autobahn is incredibly loaded with snow, and I am sure you will not find a single one of the 35 pickets across it!

Our plan is to head to the airstrip tonight and hope to fly.  No one has flown since last Sunday and snow is in the forecast all week, so we will see!

RMI Guide Andy Bond and Team

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What an amazing achievement!  So proud of your perseverance and grateful for your respect for the awesomeness of nature.

Posted by: Len Stevens on 6/24/2023 at 6:08 am

A disappointment, but not a defeat.  You measured up well against one of the sternest challenges.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/23/2023 at 9:12 pm

Denali Expedition: Andy Bond and Team Play the Waiting Game at 14,000’

Wednesday June 21, 2023

Today the team woke up to Groundhog Day!

It has continued to snow but was relatively mild as far as temps and wind go. We masterfully killed a chunk of time in the morning by making a long brunch. After retiring to our tents for the afternoon, we regrouped and planned our potential launch to 17k camp for the next day over some golden, brown, and delicious burritos.

RMI Guide Joey Manship and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Fingers and toes crossed for your summit window. Stay safe and Godspeed.

Posted by: Nancy Forsyth on 6/22/2023 at 5:43 pm

I’m hoping and praying for the news to be from 17,000 when the weather breaks.  Ya’ll stay safe.

I can’t wait to see pictures!  What a quest!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 6/22/2023 at 3:57 pm

Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Enjoy Casual Day at Camp

Tuesday, June 20, 2023 - 11:52 pm PT

The word of the day is casual. We woke up casually. We ate brunch super casually. It started around 9:45 and ended around 12:30pm. We casually devoured breakfast burritos fortified by wild Alaskan game sausage provided by the legendary Bleys. Food comas quickly afflicted much of the crew. Everyone casually waddled to their tents for the afternoon to indulge in naps and further snacking. Some folks managed to stay conscious enough to read books and watch TV or movies. Eventually the dinner bell was rung and the tents casually began to rustle with life. Dinner tonight is a repeat of a classic - ramen but this time with the addition of some newly acquired Korean spice paste. It added some much needed flavor as our ability to taste is deadened at this altitude. Another weather day has passed uneventfully, but each day we wait we get more clarity about the weather for our potential summit window. Anticipation is slowly growing amongst the team as the day to begin our summit push gets closer.

RMI Guide Jack Delaney and the Bond Girls

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I feel certain that your window will be wide open to make that summit! And what a thrill it will be!!!

Posted by: Mary McKinley (Tante Mary) on 6/21/2023 at 8:32 pm

Sounds like a nice relaxing day.  There’s lots of anticipation, excitement, and support in my little corner of the world for your reach for the summit.  Ultreia!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 6/21/2023 at 3:38 pm

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