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Entries from Alaska Seminar

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Paying Dues

Our summit has clearly angered the mountain gods.  We woke to a blizzard at 12,300 ft.  Not the worst blizzard though, winds are steady at about 25 mph, visibility is barely to the neighboring tents, the air is chock full of snow -at least some of which is “falling” from the cloud we are in.  Moving -even to lower and more comfortable climates and airplanes- was out of the question.  Besides, on the radio at midday it sounded heinous at Low Camp, with fifty-knot gusts and busted tents.  So we sat put.  Our tents are holding up well, although great quantities of snow and frost seem to find their way inside.  We recovered from yesterday’s climb with bed rest and hot meals and coffee and cocoa.  A small price to pay for a visit to the highest point on the continent. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good job Lindsay! Congrats! Keep hanging in there, we can’t wait to hear all about it!
-Emily, Grace, and the Henry crew

Posted by: Emily L on 12/12/2017 at 3:29 pm

People don’t climb mountains because it’s easy.  People climb mountains because it’s hard.  Beats the hell out of being stuck on the freeway.  I’m so proud of all you guys.  Mountain-forecast.com says things may calm down on Wednesday.  Hang in there and stay hunkered down until it’s right.  Love you girl. -  Pop

Posted by: Les Z on 12/12/2017 at 5:33 am

Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias Recaps their time in Little Switzerland

Our third AMS-Alpine Expedition has come to an end. What an incredible time we had! The rugged terrain of Little Switzerland didn’t disappoint at all… While the weather has been the main challenge, conditions on the routes were stellar. Our team of four climbers were super talented and motivated, and training days in the vicinity of camp waiting for weather to clear, turned to be the most productive lessons on the terrain; from rock rescue scenarios, to anchor transitions, all paid back with very efficient climbs up iconic formations like “The Lost Marsupial” or “The Troll”, which astonished glacier landing tourists from down below as their K2 Aviation plane landed on the Kahiltna Glacier.
Worth mentioned was our menu. If most of us are familiar with the concept of car camping… imagine how plane camping can be! With a powerless fridge like the glacier, steaks or fresh vegetables are unquestionable components of our diet in here. Yes, the alpine climbing in our seminar is at its best; light packs, 1 day missions from camp, and technical terrain. But when we’re at camp, fun times, quality rest and better food is guaranteed.
Now we’re headed to the airport, already thinking of next year’s edition. Thanks for following and I hope you will consider joining us next season!

RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb The Middle Troll

Good morning from little Swiss,

We came to an end, but not without reward…Yesterday we had, after a patient wait for blue skies, the most amazing of the climbing days we could hope for. the Middle Troll, reigning over the Pika, towered for hours above us, as its splitter granite cracks discerned a feasible access to its airy summit. The team climbed seamlessly, and all the training of the last week payed for an incredibly well oiled “uphilling” engine. We climbed into the evening, as the morning and early afternoon were still foggy; climbing into the evening light of Alaska’s summer was very special.

We’re now cooking our breakfast and soon we’ll fly back to civilization… wait to see our pictures! 

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos & Team

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Waiting on Weather

Good morning from the Pika Glacier. The weather and visibility yesterday were not exactly what we hoped for. But we made the most out of our day with more valuable training near camp; crevasse and rock rescue systems took the bigger part of the day, finishing with a few laps of vertical ice climbing out of a big crack, Alaska size. Dinner didn’t disappoint and made up for the lack of the climb we hoped to do, and a veggie-cheese omelette and steak fajitas were on the menu.
This morning we’re in a holding pattern as well, as a super dense fog is reducing our visibility to 30ft.

Stay tuned for more,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team.

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Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Check in from the Pika Glacier

Hello from the Pika Glacier! We had a terrific day on the “munchkin” a rock formation 20 minutes west of our camp, where we spent the day training. This team is really talented and motivated to learn, and with the best classroom as our domain, we had a very productive day; short roping, rock anchors, belay escapes, transitions… We lost the concept of time getting techie with our ropes and gear, and we realized we had to come back to camp when our stomachs told us dinner time was due. We are hoping for good weather tomorrow to climb another objective. Best regards from Alaska, Elias, Chase and team. 

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias and Team Take Shelter from the Rain

June 10, 2017

Good evening from Alaska. It shouldn’t be raining on the glaciers of this Range. But it is. We’ve been confined today to our tents and kitchen tarp to stay dry, as a wet cloud and on and off rain took over most of the day. No climbing or outside training we could do, but for the hour or so that we got a break, we moved camp, as our tent platforms became 1 foot tall pedestals due to the high temps. We’re all looking forward to an improvement on the forecast, and continue to climb on this sanctuary of alpine dreams that Little Swiss is!

Elias, Chase and team.

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Climb the Lost Marsupial Route

June 10, 2017 12:02 am PST

Good eve from camp! We just got back from a stellar day on The Throne, one of the dominant peaks around Little Swiss. We ventured up the “Lost Marsupial” Route, and these folks climbed it (up and down) in a record time for this guide’s third year coming here! A bit of rain threatened us and we considered bailing, but soon it ceased and we finished our objective. The cloudy skies provided an incredible light tone that made our pictures sure look surreal. Upon arrival to camp, steak dinner was prepared, and a good night’s sleep awaits.

Stay tuned for more,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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Alaska Alpine Seminar: Elias & Team Fly into the Alaska Mountains

Good evening from the Pika Glacier! We flew in yesterday on schedule, and continued with a busy afternoon of camp building for what’s going to be home for the next week. We woke to warm temperatures that made the forecasted precipitation fall in the shape of rain, which kept us tent grounded for the morning. A beautiful afternoon provided a good review of skills, and the motivation is high for our first venture into the nearby formations tomorrow.
Stay tuned for more!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Have fun Elias and Chase!

Posted by: Meredith on 6/8/2017 at 11:05 pm

Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Return to Talkeetna

Groundhog day again. We woke to better weather but there was still enough weather in Talkeetna to keep the plane grounded. Some of us were in the tent sleeping when we got the word that K2 planes were inbound. The team rallied quickly and moved gear to the runway and by early afternoon we were back in town. Typical Alaska weather for us but a great introduction to the team. What a great group of people to share time with in the Alaska range. One of a kind collection of personalities and memories to carry with us forever. Thanks for following!

RMI Guides Leon Davis, Mike King and Jessie Poquerusse

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Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Unable to Fly Off the Glacier

May 26, 2017

So this dispatch is not coming from the green grass of town but the expansive white glacier of the Kahiltna.  We thought the weather might break long enough for a flight in but alas the clouds remain limiting visibility. The team kept busy in the morning though. After breakfast we stomped down a foot of new snow on the runway so planes could land and then we waited for that faint din of turbine engines. Now it is evening and we are turning in as new snow falls. Tomorrow is another day so we will wait and see what it brings.

RMI Guide Leon Davis

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey John
Hope you guys aren’t going stir crazy .. btw the alarm in the house has been going off for 48 hours .. hahaha just kidding wanted to make u laugh .. get back if you can. M

Posted by: Mia Horgan on 5/27/2017 at 1:50 pm

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