Entries By jt schmitt
July 14, 2019
Greetings from Chopicalqui High camp! What a day… This mountain is no joke: five 60-degree pitches at 20’000ft, no visibility for the upper half of the mountain on ascent, and no visibility on the entire descent! But we did it! We reached the summit of Chopicalqui! The team needed to put up a fight and they did. Everyone stood on top shortly after 8:00 AM on a seven hour uphill strenuous push. We rolled into our sleeping bags after an early dinner that our porters had ready upon arrival. Tomorrow we’re looking forward to town and well earned rest.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
So proud of you guys! Great job!
Posted by: Terry Wisler on 7/15/2019 at 2:07 pm
Yay! Congrats Kim and team!!!
Posted by: Ally on 7/15/2019 at 12:40 pm
July 11, 2019
Greetings from base camp!
We have enjoyed our time off from climbing today, after our quick and uneventful descent (aside from the astonishing views) from Yanapacha high camp yesterday.
We’re ready to go for Chopicalqui now, and so, we have spent some time repacking for our move to Camp 1 tomorrow. Everyone’s excited, doing well and ready for the next objective!
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Sounds like everything is going great. Nice job! Love following the blog!
JT, did you get a hold of Brad?
Posted by: Ellen Smith Eaton on 7/11/2019 at 3:34 pm
July 9, 2019
Good evening again from Yanapacha moraine camp. We’re turning into our sleeping bags after an incredibly successful day. We turned our acclimatization day into a summit; weather was good, and spirits were high, so after our training session on the glacier, we decided to put things into practice right away. Yanapacha provided a short but steep glacier that definitely challenged the team this early into the stages of acclimatization, but now that it’s under our belt, and with another night here, at its high camp, we’re sure to get the most out of this rotation. Every one did an outstanding job, and the views from the summit are the new favorite for this guide. We’ll descend tomorrow to base camp to the food of our cook and the rest that the thicker air will deliver. Stay tuned for more!
Elías and team
Great Kim! Got some pictures from Snapfish of you climbing 3 years Ago this week! Love momma
Posted by: Jane on 7/10/2019 at 4:21 am
Wow! Way to go Kim & team! Congrats on the first of three!!
Posted by: shel on 7/10/2019 at 12:31 am
July 5, 2019
Good evening from Huaraz!
We have officially started our 2019 multi-peak climbing adventure. Everyone arrived in Peru on time, and we proceeded yesterday to do the long drive between the country’s capital and the Huaraz, the epicenter of climbing activity in this Andean country. The drive brought us over Conochocha Pass, nearing 4,200 meters of elevation and with astonishing views of the immediate massif of Pastoruri mountains, as the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca.
Without much hesitation, we continued on today with an acclimatization hike to Lake Churup, at 14,400ft above town. Beautiful turquoise waters below a steep peak of the same name, provided the best rewards for the first day of activity on our trip. The day followed with a team’s lunch in town, and getting pre packed for tomorrows drive and approach to Base Camp. Everyone is excited, in great spirits and the weather looks good for the next few days. Cebollapampa Base Camp, between Chopicalqui and Yanapacha (our next objectives over the next few days) await!
Stay tuned for our updates from the mountain.
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & JT Schmitt
Excited for you all! Hugs for Kim.
Posted by: Pete on 7/8/2019 at 2:51 pm
Hello from Louisiana. Good Luck and have a Great Trip.
Posted by: Tammy Kaiser on 7/8/2019 at 6:57 am
June 27, 2019
The American Lung Association’s Climb For Clean Air Team made a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier early today before low visibility and poor weather forced the team to turn. This team was led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and JT Schmitt. Each team member commits a year to training and raising funds to support the American Lung Association’s mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease. The team is currently at Camp Muir and will be heading back to Rainier Basecamp for an afternoon celebration.
Congratulations to Today’s Team!
Awesome job CFCA Mt. Rainier Climb Group #1! Thanks for letting Dylan and I join in on your descent from Pebble Creek! Y’all are so inspiring dealing with that insane weather!
Posted by: Leesha on 6/27/2019 at 7:31 pm
Well done CFCA Team! Weather is always a crap shoot! Better to be safe to climb another day! Glad your safe!
Posted by: Julie on 6/27/2019 at 6:23 pm
June 10, 2019
Monday, June 10, 2019 - 8:05 PM PT
We broke down camp quickly this morning. As quickly as anything happens at 17,000 ft. We’re in our tents at 11,000 feet now. It’s a long, hot day getting down here with all of our gear, but we’re one step closer to the airstrip. We’ll take a quick nap here, wake up around midnight, and then walk the rest of the way in the morning, hopefully landing us in position for a flight out around 8am.
Our utmost appreciation and gratitude to JM, JT and Dustin for successfully and safely guiding the team up and down Denali! The blog posts and pictures were awesome! Thank you from the Adams family and all Brit’s supporters!
Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 6/13/2019 at 7:39 pm
June 9, 2019
Sunday, June 9, 2019 - 8:27 PM PT
The team is all safely back at high camp. Everyone did an excellent job on the way down. - JM
Sunday, June 9, 2019 - 5:24 PM PT
This is John Michael Gorum, calling from the summit of Denali believe it or not, at long last and multiple attempts, we made it! Beautiful day, climbing in light layers and light gloves. [We are] taking photos and some snacks on top and about to head back down. I will send an email update when we get back to camp. All right, you’ll hear from us later.
On The Map
Congrats to you for a long, challenging and incredibly successful climb!
We could not be any more happy for you and the other climbers.
Tom and Becky
Posted by: Tom and Becky on 6/11/2019 at 8:29 am
Congratulations to all the team quite an achievement ;;well done beautiful photos beautiful clear skies ;my French man is right behind you guys they did a gear climb to camp 5 return to camp 4 .monday 10 th June ;so maybey a summit attempt in the next few days ; his satellite connection is not great so i have been following you guys ;;nice job;;;
Posted by: tracy mccall on 6/11/2019 at 1:51 am
June 8, 2019
Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 7:39 PM PT
Guess who’s back? We are. We’re back at High Camp. A place I never really thought I would find myself twice over the course of one Denali trip. The Precision Strike Summit Team (PSST) made quick work of the move back up here. We are a well oiled machine by now. Other teams yell various commands when passing anchors on the fixed lines: “stop!” “go!” “climbing!” “what?” “did you say go?” “huh?!” We climb in silence now, like panthers, sure of each others actions without having to verbalize them. We made it to 17,000’ Camp and moved right back in to our old tent platforms, so that made things efficient. We’re currently all chilling out in the tents, rehydrating, and waiting for dinner. The views are great, but we’ve already spent four days looking at them, so nobody is terribly preoccupied at this point. Here’s hoping tomorrow is another calm, clear day.
On The Map
Okay, that’s hilarious. Lol! Go PSST! LOL! If possible, get it done and get your tushes back down. Step safe. What am I saying?. Your panthers. No problems
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/8/2019 at 8:58 pm
June 8, 2019
At high camp, I had a dream about eating cheesy hash browns and eggs. This morning, that dream became a reality. We ate breakfast burritos, lunch burritos, and dinner burritos. We lived a life of luxury that was not possible at 17,000 feet.
We also came up with a plan for the coming days.Tomorrow, half the group will walk out towards base camp and a flight towards Talkeetna. The rest of us will stay here at 14 just in case we have a summit window within the next few days. The forecast is calling for light winds this weekend, which has us hopeful. Regardless of what happens, we will certainly be eating more burritos.
RMI Guide JM Gorum and Team
Love to muh sunshine:)
Posted by: Jennifer Adams on 6/8/2019 at 10:01 pm
Food sounds tasty! I’m glad I won’t be in the tent with anyone who loaded on the beans. Lol! Glad some of you are able to stay and try. Here’s to great weather. Nice photo of excellent ice cutting shelter. Go, go, go! But, step safe
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/8/2019 at 5:10 pm
June 7, 2019
Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:56 PM PT
We woke up this morning and looked uphill at the summit again. We watched as winds increased up high. We watched a few teams leave camp and turn around before Denali pass. We looked at our dwindling food. We looked at our rapidly filling poop cans. When we added it all up, we decided that it was time to leave high camp. Four nights at 17,000 feet can seem like an icy eternity, but the team actually managed it quite well. There was nothing in the forecast that made us want to stay any longer, so we left. We’re back at 14 camp now, which seems like a beach resort in comparison. Some folks have decided they have had their fill, and some want to sit it out for a few more days, potentially trying again. Tomorrow we will flesh out our options and make a plan. For now, we are excited for the best nights sleep we’ve had in a while. We’re excited to eat something other than freeze dried food. We’re excited to be able to wear fewer than three jackets to bed.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
Wise choice given the conditions you described. For those who want to try again, I hope you make it. Stay warm, and step safe. What a beautiful photo!
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:24 pm
Whatever choice you make, you’ve accomplished so much Brittni (and everyone else!). Diligently checking the blog daily; sunny Colorado is rooting for you!
Posted by: Kate Holmes on 6/7/2019 at 7:13 pm