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Entries By jt schmitt


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Return to Talkeetna, Heading Home

Yesterday we got to the air strip nice and early. We arrived at the Kahiltna Glacier air strip at 7 am after a long trip down from 17,000' Camp. Unfortunately the weather was not conducive to flying until 6:30 pm, but we made it off! The team was excited to get back to Talkeetna and enjoy hot showers and food. Now everyone is working their way back home. It’s been a successful Denali expedition and thanks so much for following along!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali team 

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Summit!

Sunday, June 20, 2021 - 8:23 pm PT

This afternoon around 2pm the team stood on top of Denali! After weeks of hard work we got the sweet reward of the top.

We were the first team to summit in at least four days, which made for a true Alaskan climbing experience. We broke trail for 7.5 hours to get to the top. Most of the permanent protection was buried, so we placed our own and put in the track to the top!

Starting early made it so we had the peak to ourselves and really got a true experience of a summit day on Denali!

Now we just have to descend from 17K Camp to the upper airstrip over the next couple days. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to my my son, Alan Davis and to the rest of the team on your summit!  Dad couldn’t be more proud of you!  A wonderful Father’s Day gift to have given me!  Love you and safe travels to you and the team on your descent!

Posted by: Patrick Davis on 6/21/2021 at 1:03 pm

Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team, who summited Denali yesterday. Matt, you worked so hard training. In fact for this climb you started in 2020 only to have that trip canceled. Buddie, our sheltie, enjoyed his mountain climbing in Phoenix on your easy days of training. So glad your guides let you make a second attempt for the summit. And thank the guides for great up dates. Safe travel to the 6 of you down the mountain. Can’t wait to hear the stories.

Posted by: Mary and George Howell on 6/21/2021 at 12:07 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Waiting at High Camp

Saturday, June 19, 2021 - 3:51 pm PT

Today we woke up to snow and wind. We are resting and acclimating today, hoping to climb tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make Summit Attempt, Return to High Camp

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

The team tried to summit today, and as usual we performed like a well oiled machine. Unfortunately we weren’t able to make it to the top due to adverse and unexpected obstacles that again, the team handled exquisitely. We put in a track up to Denali pass and hope to make it up again in the coming days.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Texas taking in oklahoma state

Kevin durant, kevin DURANT, OH KEVIN DURANT…..

Posted by: Digger Phelps on 6/20/2021 at 4:24 pm

Good luck, be safe, and thanks for taking us along!

Posted by: Joe Eley on 6/20/2021 at 4:08 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Wait for Weather Window

Thursday, June 17, 2021 1:33 pm PT

This morning we woke up to a foot of new snow and the winds have been blowing 30 mph all day, which is slightly unpleasant but what we expected. There is a lot of strategy in expedition climbing, and this plan is part of that. We got up to 17,000' camp yesterday knowing it would not be possible today, and now we are in position to take advantage of tomorrow’s supposed high pressure.

Send good thoughts our way for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT, Alan, Kirra and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Vano, when you shotgun a beer at the summit, have you thought about the pressure change and how that beer may just buss everywhere? Please get back to me

-Heater

Posted by: Heater on 6/18/2021 at 5:10 am

Sending good thoughts!

Posted by: Ann on 6/17/2021 at 6:49 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Reach 17,000ft Camp, Ready for Summit Bid

Wednesday, June 16, 2021 - 8:29 pm PT

We made it to High Camp, 17,200' on Denali. It’s a little blustery but other than that all is good here. Keeping our fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Matt - Hopefully your next push will be the summit. Good luck and keep climbing. Best of weather and conditions so you can look down on Ross, Jason and Eli further down the glacier. Congratulations in advance! Gerard

Posted by: Gerard Crum on 6/17/2021 at 8:39 am


Denali Expedition: Rest Day for JT Schmitt & Team

Tuesday, June 15, 2021 - 4:50 pm PT

We are enjoying a nice sunny rest day at 14,000’ camp today after our carry to 17,000’ yesterday. We are waiting to see what the weather has in store before we make our next move. All is well here at camp!

RMI Guides JT, Kiira, Alan and the RMI team

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Go team go! Hoping for great weather and easy travels!

Posted by: Ellen on 6/16/2021 at 10:12 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Carry Gear to 17,000ft Camp

Monday, June 14, 2021 - 9:31 pm PT

Today we carried supplies and personal gear up to 17,000' Camp. The team performed amazingly for their first time on fixed lines and dealing with thousands of feet of exposure and running belays.

We floated past other teams, seemingly effortlessly as they cached lower on the West Buttress, but we were moving so efficiently and the day was perfectly clear and windless, so we decided to cache all the way at 17,000' Camp.

It’s now 8 o’clock in the evening and we are about to enjoy some dinner and a much deserved night of rest.

All the best from the team at 14,000' Camp.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

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Thinking of everyone as you prepare to summit! Stay safe and strong ! Enjoy the adventure !

Posted by: Ann VanO on 6/16/2021 at 8:44 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Rest Day

Sunday, June 13, 2021 - 3:34 pm PT

Today we enjoyed a full rest day at Denali 14K Camp. Everyone is feeling nice and dried out and rested. The weather is gorgeous and is supposedly going to be nice for us to carry above the fixed lines tomorrow!

Stay tuned,

RMI Guides JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We are sending positive thoughts to everyone for a successful climb to the summit!  Stay safe, strong and positive!

Posted by: Barb n John The Parents on 6/15/2021 at 8:52 pm

Great progress! The scene looks simply amazing. Be honest, how much “up your gas” have you taken so far? :) Good luck and be safe.
-Powder Hound

Posted by: Greg on 6/15/2021 at 2:43 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Back Carry and Settle into 14K Camp

Saturday, June 12. 2021 - 7:51 pm PT

Today we back carried to our cache at 13,500, which was a great way to get a little exercise. We now have all of our supplies up with us at 14 camp and are ready for a full rest day tomorrow!

The weather is beautiful, hot and sunny during the day, albeit quite cold at night. We truly are in the land of extremes. Our camp looks dialed and clean, our team is working as a well-oiled machine.

All the best from 14 camp and hope everyone is well!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

So enjoying watching your trek from afar.  Would take a bit of that coolness - quite hot and humid here in MO.

Posted by: Melody Reardon on 6/13/2021 at 9:01 am

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