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Entries By pete van deventer

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit Denali!

Sunday, May 26, 2024 - 10:56 pm PT

The break in wind we had hoped for materialized and this morning was gorgeous. We got going early to take advantage. The Autobahn was chilly as always, but good walking thanks to the efforts of the multicompany guide effort yesterday. We had a bit of wind as we approached the Football Field, and were a bit worried about the winds streaming over the summit ridge. A passing friend described the ridge as savage. As we climbed Pig Hill in relative protection, they seemed to abate and as we crested things were relatively pleasant. We worked our way along the exciting terrain of the summit ridge and around 15:30, stepped onto the top of Denali. We shared some hugs and photos, and then scooted back across to beat the onrush of traffic still coming up. We had a pretty casual walk back, and 12 hours after we started we were back in camp in sunshine, recovering from a mighty day. We'll sleep well tonight, and then start to work our way to the airstrip tomorrow. We will be moving quite a bit with little rest until we reach base camp and the planes arrive to bring us to town. We'll try to stay in touch, but we will be home soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulation…Bravo…Well done Pete and crew.
From hoop courts and race ovals of flat IN.

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 5/28/2024 at 1:10 am

Wonderful news!  Big congrats to you all!

Posted by: Lisa Hankin on 5/27/2024 at 2:29 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Hoping Tomorrow is Summit Day

Saturday, May 25, 2024 - 5:35 pm PT

This morning wasn't quite what we had ordered up. The wind was moving quite a bit of snow at Denali Pass, and it was immediately clear it wasn't the day for us. New forecasts also showed the wind rising this afternoon, but letting off tonight and tomorrow, so tomorrow sounded like the better day anyways. Big shout-out to RMI Guides Andy Bond and Henry Coppolillo for the constant weather updates now that we are in go mode. Camp was calm and pleasant, with snow falling lightly in the afternoon, but warm overall. In a showcase of camaraderie and teamwork, guides from several different teams, including ours, took the opportunity to get into the Autobahn and ensure the pickets and walking are ready for us tomorrow. On to tomorrow!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Get some Batch!!!!!!

Posted by: Jasyn Voshell on 5/26/2024 at 4:17 am

Get it Scott Lico! You got this!!!!! Good job everyone.

Posted by: Priscilla Littmann on 5/25/2024 at 10:07 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Reach High Camp

Friday, May 24, 2024 10:51pm PDT

Things worked well for us today to get to 17,000’ Camp. The morning was relatively warm, things looked calm above finally, and everyone was excited to go somewhere new. That was true of most of camp as many guide parties all took the opportunity to bump up to high camp. It was a busy day on the fixed lines and buttress, but overall, it went pretty smoothly for us.

We were one of the first parties to arrive at 17,000’ Camp in the midafternoon, and had plenty of time to build camp while taking breaks to rest and recover up here in the thin air. We are settled in comfortably, and headed to bed shortly to wake up and see if tomorrow is our day to go for the  summit!

Wish us fair weather and swift feet!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Pete, Jackson and team….. you got this!! Proud, inspired and in awe of you all!! Finish the climb!

Posted by: Amy Breen on 5/25/2024 at 11:18 am

Get up that mountain Scott!!! I know you can do it! We are all rooting for your and your team!!

Posted by: Jackie Millen on 5/25/2024 at 9:16 am

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Walk to the Edge of The World

We went to bed last night really warm. The sun was still on the tents, and temps through camp were warm. That lasted until early morning, when suddenly the clouds dropped, and the temperature plummeted. This morning therefore was one of the coldest of the trip, properly bone-chilling cold. Halfway through breakfast the sun finally hit and our fortunes changed, thawing us out and warming up conversation. This was hopefully our last rest day. We took the opportunity to walk the short jaunt to the edge of the world, where the edge of genet basin in which 14k camp is located, plummets to the NE fork of the Kahiltna 7000' below.

Otherwise, we’ve rested and organized for a hoped for move to 17,000’ tomorrow. The forecast looks promising, and we are excited to enter the home stretch! We'll send a progress report tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We love reading about your expedition! We’re thinking about my brother, Scott and hoping for good weather and a successful climb!

Posted by: Julie Joyce on 5/24/2024 at 7:09 pm

Great updates!  And best of luck to the team.  Jackson, we’re rooting for you all!
Tracy and Bruce

Posted by: Tracy and Bruce Wilhelm on 5/24/2024 at 1:35 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait for Better Weather

It was still pretty clear that we were going to sit today, the winds were ripping around up high like a school of minnows, darting in all directions. Camp, however, had finally calmed, the snow had stopped, and it was shaping up to be a sunny day. The sun eventually evaded the clouds up high and broke free thawing our tents and bodies. The rest of the day we stored up heat in our body batteries, basked in that orange orb, and rested. The forecast is looking better going forward, so we hope to be taking the next steps in the next few days. Until then, we'll continue basking in our high altitude solarium.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait Out Stormy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

Tuesday, May 21, 2024 - 6:55 pm PT

It's been a stormy rest day at 14,000' Camp. Early this morning, things were calm in camp and relatively clear. We could hear the wind above at 17,000', and large cloud banks seemed to hang all around. There was a large wall of white to the south of us, and by the middle of brunch, that had overtaken camp. We had little visibility and snow fell lightly. As the day went on, the wind direction moved just enough to subject us to it's gusts. The tents shake, spindrift is invading through any opening it can find, and snow continues to fall, harder now, drumming on the tents when the wind isn't shaking them. It has been a perfect day to stay deep in the sleeping bags, napping reading, snacking, playing cards, and venturing out occasionally to fortify our compound with walls cut from snow blocks. We are snug and riding it out. More tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Climb Fixed Lines, Ascend to 17,000’ for Carry

Monday, May 20, 2024 - 11:30 pm PT

At 6am, 14,000' Camp is a cold, quiet place as everyone tries to stay deep in their sleeping bags. It was also gorgeous this morning, so we rallied everybody and headed uphill towards the mythical fixed lines well before sun hit camp. It was a chilly start, but gave us the advantage of being among the first teams headed up. We clipped in and started up and that walk made us work today. Much of the ascent was steep, blue ice with little in the way of texture or foot holds in it. But we not only persevered, we cruised up quite smoothly. We then traversed the West Buttress, admiring the views and seeing 14,000' Camp well below. It was a perfect day for climbing and we took it all the way to 17,000' Camp, where we dug a hole to hide our goodies, and then headed back for our cozy home. The fixed lines were quite blue on the way down too, burning calves and feet, but soon we were past and stepped back into the sunlight of camp. It was a great effort from everybody, and tomorrow we plan to rest.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Keep up the the great work! You guys are killing it!! So exciting

Posted by: Jacqueline Millen on 5/21/2024 at 7:28 am

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest at 14,000ft

Sunday, May 19, 2024 - 10:59 pm PT

This morning every peak around us, including Denali, was wearing a funny cloud hat - lenticular clouds and a sign of high winds. It made the decision pretty clear: we would rest at 14,000' Camp today. We did all of our usual rest day things and watched as camp was engulfed by a calm, white cloud, before it started to snow lightly. Despite all that, the tents were catching quite a bit of solar radiation and it was quite warm and comfy inside. We made a decent start at building snow walls to protect camp should the weather turn worse. The forecast sounds decent tomorrow, so we are hoping for weather in the morning that let's us carry to 17,000'.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey Jackson! I got my Mothers Day postcard today from Denali! It made my day!

Posted by: Amy on 5/20/2024 at 3:05 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Enjoying 14,000ft Camp

Saturday, May 18, 2024 - 10:35 pm PT

Everyone seemed to agree that last night was one of the best nights of sleep they've had. Something about a big day, hard work building camp, and the impetus to climb deep inside your bag to hide from the cold at 14,000' made for a good night. We let sun hit the tents and warm things before rousing for breakfast, then strolled back to our cache at 13,500' to retreive the rest of our food and belongings. It was a good active rest mission, stretch the legs but not work too hard. An afternoon of naps and snacks led to a quick fixed line refresher before dinner. We're happily settled in at 14,000' now with all of our stuff and looking for the next opportunity to head up for a trip along the West Buttress to 17,000' camp. That day will be another carry and cache, but we are getting closer to the goal. Everyone is psyched to be up at 14,000' where the living is good and the views endless. We'll touch base tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This is so great! So proud, excited and inspired by the adventure and commitment from the Team!!! Just keep climbing! 
Stay safe and enjoy the climb!!
Amy and Pat

Posted by: Amy and Pat Breen on 5/19/2024 at 6:11 pm

So exciting!  Even the beginning of your adventure sounds amazing.  I love the read the updates.  Stay safe.

Posted by: Priscilla on 5/19/2024 at 5:30 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 14k

May 17, 2024 11:54PM PT

Today was super successful. Things were quite warm at camp and looked enticing enough to rouse everyone and start making preparations to leave.
Excitement was in the air as everyone in camp had similar thoughts - whether they were carrying or moving. Teams filtered out of camp uphill, and we made final adjustments, and then shouldered packs and headed up Motorcycle Hill. 
We moved really well - caught a little breeze over the top of squirrel, then kept swinging along the polo field. It was a bit chilly again around Windy Corner, but the wind died on the other side and the oven turned on and we started pulling off layers. 
We cruised into camp and set about building our home for the next several days tough work at 14,200’. Everybody is now recovering horizontally. 
Tomorrow should be a much easier day, dropping back down to grab our cache and returning to camp with all our treasures. 


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