Entries By pete van deventer

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team take a Well Earned Rest Day

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2015 11:34pm PST

After a big day yesterday, we took it easy today to rest up for a forthcoming summit push. We woke late and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, bacon; and hash browns which stretched into afternoon. A few hours of sorting gear, napping, and reading led into a dinner of quesadillas. Unfortunately, the meat department may be getting low… From here on out its freeze dried dinners, ramen, and oatmeal. With that in mind we savored the fresh food, and wrapped up small details for tomorrow. Everything seems to be lining up for us to move to high camp tomorrow. We’ll wake early, beat the sun out of camp, and take our second stroll along the West Buttress. Everybody is excited and fired up.

Keep your fingers crossed for us!

RMI Guides
Pete, Josh, Robby, and Team

An RMI Dining tent on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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5

Good luck team Pete !!! Can’t wait for your next post.
Matt sounds like you are having awesome weather we all hope it keeps up for your last… read more

Posted by: Terri on 5/29/2015 at 5:53 pm

P.s look out for me overhead tomorrow. Hopefully will be flying above you all.

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Posted by: Jordy on 5/29/2015 at 5:36 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to High Camp

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, May 28th 3:49 am PDT

After so many posts about waiting for weather, this one is different. We headed for the fixed lines this morning under clear, sunny skies. The day turned into the nicest that Robby, Josh, or I have ever had on the West Buttress—warm and without a breathe of wind. Because the weather was so nice, the climbing conditions so perfect, and the group climbing so well, we decided to push all of the way to 17 Camp and leave our cache there. The climbing on the Buttress is some of the best of the entire route, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the huge views, interesting climbing, and the accomplishment of getting it done. It was a big day, just under 10 hours round trip, so everyone is knackered but elated, and we will more than likely sleep in and take a rest day tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Looking up at the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley, AK from 14 Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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9

Matt thanks to you and your team for all the updates.  This has been so exciting to follow you and your team Pete on your blog.  This is the day… read more

Posted by: marilyn collura on 5/29/2015 at 3:47 pm

Pete thanks for the updates, fun to follow along.  Brian, following along, hope to see a post that you made Camp 17 in the next day or so, best of… read more

Posted by: Oscar Berke on 5/29/2015 at 8:32 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Check out the Views from the Edge of the World

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 11:13 pm PT

We woke to a swirling cloud cap above, that left little doubt that it was unpleasant in the West Buttress. We decided to wait the day yet again and see what tomorrow brings. We did take advantage of a break in the clouds to walk to the “Edge of the World’, where Genet Basin drops almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna. The views from here are unsurpassed and everyone took turns being belayed out to the edge to snap photos. We’ll give another shot at caching on the buttress tomorrow. We’ll let you know how it goes.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

Looking out over the Edge of the World from 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Lindsay Mann

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6

Incredible photo!!, well done to all. Feels like you’ve been gone for a lot longer than 18 days renee, I’m sure it feels like a long time for you also… read more

Posted by: Leigh on 5/28/2015 at 3:52 am

Team PRJ… wow sounds like mother nature is flexing her muscles. Hope you are keeping warm and well fed… especially Renee. I miss you so much! Work is not the… read more

Posted by: Kathy on 5/27/2015 at 8:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Retrieve Cache, Ready for Carry

Posted by: Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard | May 26, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 26, 2015 - 12:17 am PT

Just like Johnny Cash said, “that train keeps a rollin’.” The winds were down, a cloud of sparkling ice crystals hung around, reflecting the sunlight and solar baking everything, and we returned to a dead calm Windy Corner to retrieve our cash. We are one step closer now with all of our food up here with us. The next step is to take a run at the fixed lines and cache some food in the West Buttress. To prepare, we spent the afternoon practicing with our ascenders and getting prepped for that potential carry tomorrow. Mac and cheese with bacon for dinner to fuel us tomorrow. We’ll hope to wake up with a green light to head up. For now, good night!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

An RMI Team approaching 14,000 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Rennee you are doing not only us here at the VEC, but your family and more importantly yourself proud ! Everyone is 100% right behind you all the way my… read more

Posted by: Paul your GOD Webbyyyyy on 5/26/2015 at 8:23 pm

Hello there Renee and Team PRJ,
So glad to hear you retrieved your cache.  Yippee - Food for all now.
You are making headway so that’s awesome.
read more

Posted by: lori on 5/26/2015 at 7:45 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Hoping for Better Weather

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer | May 25, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 24, 2015 - 9:30 pm PT

The wind and snow continued through the night and into today. We spent the night listening to the roar of a freight train of wind above us on the West Buttress. The max gust through camp, according to the NPS weather station was 52 mph. That wind and snow put a few holes in our posh tent, and knocked over a few walls, so we spent the morning stitching up holes and rebuilding walls. Otherwise we fared pretty well through the blizzard. This afternoon things started to subside, and by evening the sun was showing, sparkling off of the small snowflakes that are hanging in the air. Our hope is that that trend will carry through tomorrow, and we’ll have the visibility to head back down and retrieve our cache from Windy Corner. Fingers crossed. The change in weather has also caused a change in the general mood of camp, and we’re listening to laughing, joking, jovial voices all over camp. We’ll let you know how things go tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young, and team

An RMI Team camped at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley fortifies snow walls and clears tents after new snow.  Photo: Dave Hahn

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6

Hi Renee and team! I have my fingers and toes crossed for the weather to continue to improve - keep up the mac ‘n cheese consumption and look forward to… read more

Posted by: Anna on 5/26/2015 at 5:02 pm

Jon, guides and team,
Sorry to read that you were pounded by the wind and snow but glad that all of you are safe and survived the blizzard.  Hopefully… read more

Posted by: Kemai on 5/25/2015 at 9:55 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Waiting at 14,200 ft Camp

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 24, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 24, 2015 - 9:32 am PT

Winter has come to Denali. We spent the night listening to snowflakes pelt the tent walls, interspersed with frequent tent shaking blasts of wind. As we stretched breakfast into a long brunch, the story didn’t change, so we decided to focus our energy on building up our walls a bit more and solidifying camp rather than going to get our cache. The evening brought stronger snow, and a fresh forecast of more snow tomorrow and wind, so we’ll see how the plan for tomorrow shakes out. From the wintry white north,

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

A snowy camp at 14,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Brent Okita

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2

Hey all you Elves in winter wonderland. Looks like Santa Claus back yard.  Looks like few teams set up their camp there too.
Hope to hear you can… read more

Posted by: Lori on 5/24/2015 at 3:42 pm

Glad Team Pete made it in time before the weather turn wintry good idea to stay put. Sorry to hear weather has not been cooperating hopefully it will be better… read more

Posted by: Terri on 5/24/2015 at 3:41 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Set Up Camp at 14,200’

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Friday, May 22nd 5:52 pm PDT

The day dawned (that is, the sun rose since it’s always some shade of dawn or dusk but never night) with blue skies and calm air in camp, so we hit the rally button, gobbled breakfast and set about breaking camp to head to 14,200 ft. As we climbed, clouds started to appear and stream over our heads and we knew that winds were building. Windy Corner lived up to its name, but it was really only unpleasant for a short while, with wind whipping snow and ice pellets into our face. As soon as we passed the Windy Corner, the winds died and the oven turned on. It’s a long move to 14k Camp, and once we arrived the work wasn’t over. We set about building walls, a new kitchen, and getting everything bomb proofed. Now we’re settled into our new digs, happy, warm, and content. 14k Camp really is the cat’s meow. Tomorrow we’ll retrieve our cache, and it will be great to be fully settled.

Until then,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

14k Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK surrounded by fortified walls. Photo: RMI Collection

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6

Keep up the good work, Matt! Here’s a terrible pun for your trouble: ‘I have kleptomania, so when it gets really bad, I take something for it.’ Stay warm and… read more

Posted by: Scott on 5/24/2015 at 8:52 am

Jon and Team,
Congratulations on hiking up to 14,200 base camp!  In spite of the snow and ice pellets you all persevered and succeeded.  Thank you guides for your… read more

Posted by: Kemai on 5/23/2015 at 9:52 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take A Weather Day at 11,200’

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young | May 22, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 21, 2015 - 11:31 pm PT

Mt. McKinley made it abundantly clear today that we were welcome to stay in the tents, but were not welcome to move higher. Big snow plumes above us and swirling clouds, snow, and wind in camp made the decision to rest for the day easy. We passed the time with a long brunch, some tent time, and another long dinner session hanging out in the posh. This evening our visibility improved, the sun shone through, and the winds diminished, so we’re hopeful that we’ll take a take two tomorrow and head up to 14,000’. Keep your finger crossed for us.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard and team

An RMI Team taking a weather day at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection

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2

Thinking of you all up there.  McKinley is showing both her sides to you, will definately cross fingers she will start behaving tomorrow and let you guys through.
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Posted by: lori on 5/22/2015 at 3:17 pm

Team Pete that sounds like the best decision.  Keep spirits up we are all praying for better weather and safety for all for the rest of your journey. Thanks for… read more

Posted by: Terri on 5/22/2015 at 12:14 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to Windy Corner

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 21, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, May 20th 6:11 pm PDT

Our day was productive, if not easy. This morning the winds had abated, though not gone, and we seized our opportunity to make some headway. We swapped snowshoes for crampons, packed loads of food and fuel, and roped up for the climb to Windy Corner. The winds, not nearly as strong as yesterday, were nonetheless a bit blustery as we climbed and added a bit of extra challenge to the day, and everyone rose to that challenge. We made it to Windy Corner and cached our loads as the wind seemed to pick up a bit. We scooted back downhill to the comfort of our tents, and tucked in. By mid-afternoon, the winds returned to 11k Camp and brought snow with them. We’ll see how the current pattern progresses, and in the morning we’ll find out if the weather will allow us to move up, or whether we’ll extend out stay at 11,200’ for another day. For now we’re snug in our beds.


RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and Team

An RMI team ascending Motorcycle Hill with 11k Camp of Mt. McKinley, AK in the background. Photo: RMI Collection

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4

Hi Jon!
As I looked at the picture of the team climbing with heavy packs I thought of our Mt. Fuji climb.  Fuji must have been a piece of… read more

Posted by: Kemai on 5/22/2015 at 12:25 am

Hi Renee, hope the weather gets better for you all. Photos look amazing. Hope your taking plenty of them. Miss you bulldog and staffy stare at the door waiting for… read more

Posted by: Jordan on 5/21/2015 at 2:44 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Take a Rest Day at 11,200’

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young | May 20, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

May 20, 2015 - 12:07 am PT

We wanted to get up to 13,500’ to cache today, but the weather had other plans. Clouds and snow were moving quickly over the Polo Field and West Buttress above us, and gave us all the clues we needed to guess what would be going on at Windy Corner. After watching the trend for a couple of hours and not seeing any improvement, we decided to sit tight and take a tent day. Sure enough, around noon the wind direction shifted and brought strong, gusty winds to camp, along with a fair bit of snow. The team did the tent time triathlon, competing in three events: napping (best napping and longest), spades, and sport eating lunch food. By dinner, the clouds above us started to break and the sun peaked through. We’ve got 6 inches of nice new fluffy snow, and the view as we crawled into our sleeping bags was sparkly and beautiful. We’ll add some more sleep hours, and hope that we wake up to conducive conditions for getting our cache in tomorrow!

RMI Guides Pete, Josh, Robby, and team

An RMI Team camped at 11,200 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Rob Lindner

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Matt sounds like you are having a lot of fun. I’m staying in touch with mom to see how you are doing. It has been raining here most of the… read more

Posted by: Marilyn Collura on 5/21/2015 at 6:56 pm

Beautiful photos that have been posted.  Hope the weather cooperates - stay safe and smart.  Love you Robby (mom)  :-)

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Posted by: Diane Young on 5/21/2015 at 4:33 am


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