Entries By pete van deventer
May 28, 2016
May 28, 2016 - 12:06 am PT
‘The Great One’ once again showed her might. Another night of hammering winds kept us from deep sleep. Despite unrelenting gales, Denali Storm Evans finally gifted us with sunny skies this morning. Today was a day to lick our wounds, repair and fortify camp, and dry our clothes; wet from the rigors of battling the passing storm. It was a day to be grateful for the sun.
Cinnamon Toast Crunch provided a dose of childhood nostalgia, followed up by Pete’s world famous power dinner; quinoa, lentils, squash, beans, and mustard. Our bodies and our minds still await our chance to experience the upper slopes of this great mountain. With mother nature’s cooperation, we’re hopeful this shall soon come to fruition.
Until then, Namaste.
Ditto what Leanne said ... we are all anxiously awaiting what’s next for you all and the news can’t come soon enough. Nine days at Camp 3. Is that a record? I know you are doing your best to keep your spirits up together and give it all you’ve got. Justin, can I promise you a foot rub for all your efforts? Hopefully that gives you just a little more stamina ...
Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/28/2016 at 2:24 pm
Oh, the simple pleasures of life - sunshine, dry clothes, deep sleep. I hope all these things stay with you until you reach your goal and return home safely. Your friends in the lower half have been praying nonstop for your safety and health.
These blog posts are like letters from heaven. Thanks for keeping us informed. It’s our lifeline.
Posted by: leanne on 5/28/2016 at 10:37 am
May 27, 2016
May 26, 2016 - 11:29 pm PT
Tonight’s dispatch will be short courtesy of Storm Evans.
Everyone is doing well but very occupied with shoveling out our tents every 45 minutes as the 60mph wind that is ripping through camp fills everything back in with spindrift. Not the most pleasant day, and we certainly didn’t even entertain the thought of going anywhere. Hopefully the winds give us a reprieve and let us get some sleep tonight. We’ll touch base tomorrow.
On The Map
Hello Hitesh, best wishes from everybody at Home. hopefully, weather clears up tomorrow! take care.
Posted by: Paresh on 5/27/2016 at 9:16 pm
Hitesh. All is taken care of. Wishing you good weather!!!
Posted by: Rod Dubois on 5/27/2016 at 3:59 pm
May 26, 2016
May 25, 2016 - 11:47 p.m. PDT
The morning sun never showed at all, rather than views of “The Great One,” all we saw was the inside of a ping pong ball.
Blowing snow and midday brunch, spinach and egg burritos took us well past lunch.
Life at 14 is cut and dry, we’ve prepped, we’ve cached, and we’re ready to fly.
Our eyes are fixed on the buttress above, we were surprised this evening by a tent dwelling dove.
Coming high pressure may not be our best friend, but at least we’ll have some views again.
Toasted pop tarts keep our spirits light, we hope the summit is soon in our sights.
~~A poetic collaboration of RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young
On The Map
If Smores pop tarts are what you guys had,
Life at the top,
Ain’t half bad.
Wishing you all a continued safe (and amazing) journey! (*Hi, H!!*)
Posted by: Yogita on 5/26/2016 at 12:58 pm
Lisa: The “porch crowd” eagerly awaiting your dash to the top .. tried to encourage George and Rob to start training .. not much success, so far
Posted by: Peter on 5/26/2016 at 11:47 am
May 25, 2016
May 25, 2016 - 1:04 am PT
For the first time in several days, the skies were clear above and below us this morning. With those clear skies came COLD temps. We let the sun warm the tents and us, and then set our sights on the fixed lines for a light carry of personal gear. The sun kept it warm while we moved, but the temps stayed cold and we kept the breaks short as they quickly turned chilly. Our group moved really well, and with no other traffic around, we were quickly at the top of the lines, sitting on the West Buttress proper. Our later departure, and light but cold winds convinced us to cache our loads there, and head back down. As has been the recent pattern, as we descended the winds above built, and soon evidence of strong winds was showing on the summit, and moving down to the Buttress as well. We were happy to be back in camp relaxing. The next weather system is forecasted to come in tonight and tomorrow, so we’ll enjoy the comfort of our tents. At this point, we are watching for our window and are perfectly set up to go for the summit when the opportunity presents. That might mean a touch more waiting, but we are ok with that.
Best from 14,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team
On The Map
Well team u “got this” the summit is so close, man that slope looks like 38-40 degrees angle glad to hear the weather is on ur side rest up for the finally “Ooh Rah” say hello to our friend L R climb on and be safe. Best XO The Bolomey’s
Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/26/2016 at 3:10 am
Impressive feat to summit West Buttress during a break in the weather. Patrice tells me that Thursday through Sunday will bring favorable weather; so, maybe you’ll make good progress toward your goal of summiting. I am hoping and praying that you are successful because it’s occurred to me that another climb up Denali might be in your future if you don’t succeed this time. I couldn’t take the anxiety again.
Upwards and onwards!
Posted by: leanne on 5/25/2016 at 1:09 pm
May 24, 2016
May, 23, 2016 - 10:05 p.m. PDT
Fully prepared for Denali Storm Daryl overnight, we were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a quiet night and an even more beautiful morning. While cold and calm here at 14 Camp this morning, the upper mountain continued to impress with strong winds and an impressive lenticular cloud covering the summit. Our sights turned from climbing and caching, to rest and rejuvenation. We said goodbye to our friends Mike Walter and crew as they began their long descent back to civilization, and headed out to the famous “Edge of the World,” a must see for any climber lucky enough to call 14 camp home. The views were ‘out of this world,’ as always, looking out over the cloud-filled lower Kahiltna Glacier, 7,000’ below. Quesadilla Supremes nourished our rested bodies this evening before the setting sun coaxed us back into the warmth of our tents. Tomorrow, our waiting game continues as we look toward a weather window that will allow us entrance to the upper slopes of the tallest mountain in North America.
Goodnight from RMI Guides Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, and Jess Matthews and team.
On The Map
Hi Lisa& team VanDemventer wow unbelievable picturesque breathtaking views, hope ur window of opportunity happens today to take u to the top, it’s been a good tough journey I’m sure be safe to all and climb on. Xo the BOLOMEY’S ⛷
Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/25/2016 at 3:14 am
Great break in the weather for all as you acclimatize and get those red blood cell numbers up there.
Hitesh. Thinking about you and all goes well at SCH
Posted by: Rod Duboid on 5/24/2016 at 9:06 pm
May 23, 2016
May 22, 2016 - 11:34 p.m. PDT
We climbed out of the tents this morning hopeful that we would head uphill to cache. Though there was a cap on the summit, the ridge of the West Buttress looked doable. As we fired the stoves though that situation began to change as the cap lowered and the winds over the Buttress picked up. By the end of breakfast we had changed our minds and decided to stay put. That was further reinforced when a climbing ranger stopped by to let us know that NOAA had called with a special weather advisory with high winds and snow. The rangers have taken to naming the storms; this one is Denali storm Daryl. We spent the day resting and hibernating in tents, though so far Daryl has been pretty gentle with us. Tomorrow sounds like it will be another rest day, but if we wake up to something unexpected, we’ll rally and get our cache in.
Fra Tomas: Gratulerer med dagen Sinnekka! Jeg elsker deg, din Tomas.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young, and team
On The Map
Nobody messes with Daryl on TWD; so, I’m glad to hear that you are paying storm Daryl some respect.
Stay low and ride this out. Mother Nature is always in charge.
Posted by: leanne on 5/23/2016 at 3:48 pm
Stay safe .. No guts and glory stuff!!!
Posted by: Peter on 5/23/2016 at 9:45 am
May 22, 2016
May 21, 2016 - 11:43 pm PT
Though there was a cap on the upper mountain when we woke, that wasn’t the direction of our concern. The snow and winds had abated, and down towards Windy Corner, the sun was shining through thin clouds, setting everything to sparkling. After another great brunch, we grabbed our packs and feeling light as feathers, cruised downhill to our cache. We made quick work of retrieving it, and an hour later were back in camp with a small mountain of food. We spent a bit of time before dinner rigging our ascenders and reviewing fixed line techniques for what we hope to be our carry up onto the West Buttress tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we’ll make our first trip up the lines, and all the boxes will be checked for our summit bid.
All for now,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team
On The Map
Following your trail Lisa and it must be incredible. Must be so beautiful. You are awesome!
Posted by: Trix on 5/23/2016 at 6:14 pm
So close.. enjoy every step and the fabulous view, Lisa..! Go higher !! Look forward to seeing the flag !
Posted by: greg hurley on 5/23/2016 at 12:27 pm
May 21, 2016
May 21, 2016 - 1:18 am PT
For most of today it huffed and puffed and the snow fell heavily. We haven’t been able to see much, and the wind has been gusting pretty strongly. We made the easy choice to take today as a rest day and fortify our camp, which proved to be the right decision as the gusts grew stronger as the day went on. Instead, we ate a great brunch of smoked salmon and bagels, then set to work reinforcing our compounds with big walls (some wondered how much of a rest day it was carrying a couple hundred 20 pound blocks of snow). With our camp solid, we retired to the tents for naps and rest, before a delicious dinner of Mac and cheese with bacon. It’s still snowing hard, though the winds are starting to calm. We’re expecting to still wake up to some snow, but hopefully the winds abate, the visibility improves, and we take a quick walk back to retrieve our cache. If not, we still have plenty of delicious food up here and we’ll continue to acclimate and get strong in the thinner air of 14.
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and our stellar team of high altitude athletes
On The Map
Geez, you all seem to be eating well! Scott I hope you’re getting some good many ideas for our next climb—no more of those just-add-water instant dinner thingies! ;-)
Be safe y’all, and enjoy the journey.
Posted by: Chris Beaudette on 5/22/2016 at 1:02 pm
Mac and cheese Justin??? I feel bad for your tent mates!!!!!!! Hopefully the storm will relent soon enough. This past week, we finally had a nice stretch of sunny weather here in Colorado and I am missing you on my hikes. I almost stepped on a rattlesnake and realized I really need to review my WFR notes ...
Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/21/2016 at 3:35 pm
May 20, 2016
May 20, 2016 - 12:24 am PT
Stupendous day here on Denali! We fought saucy winds through the aptly named Windy Corner, but the sky stayed pristinely azure, and the team ducked their heads into the chilly breeze and powered around the corner, where the winds promptly died. We rolled into 14 looking like a fresh pair of socks, and started building our own fortress next to that of Mike Walter’s crew. As the temps dropped, we ate a hearty dinner and retired to the tents. We have a light day on tap tomorrow, returning to our cache to retrieve food and fuel and fully move into 14.
Best from our new abode,
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Robby, and team
On The Map
Well Lisa looks like u and team r making good progress to the top and avoiding the bad conditions that can pop up in a moment , incredible journey for u and team Van Demvender keep posting ur moves , be safe and strong Climb On,
Posted by: Joe& Patty on 5/21/2016 at 3:08 am
Seems like you’re all doing fine in the incredibly beautiful landscape. I understand you are maintaining a physically tough trip, but as long as your packing is under control, no need to worry! Wish you a nice go with the final passage up to the top. Inger says hello too. Love, Maria.
Posted by: Maria Hedlund on 5/20/2016 at 10:58 pm
May 19, 2016
May 19, 2016 - 12:07 a.m. PDT
Today was a beautiful day to go for a walk, so we grabbed our already packed packs from yesterday and headed up Motorcycle Hill. A thin layer of high clouds kept it from getting too hot, and we cruised across a smooth, and relatively crevasse free, Polo Field to Windy Corner, and then around to our cache site at 13,500.’ After folding a shovel in half trying to dig through a surprisingly thick ice layer, we found and abandoned cache hole that had blown in and excavated that instead. With food and fuel buried, we made short work of the return trip to 11,200’. Should the weather be fair in the morning, we plan to pack up camp and head up to 14,200’ to join Mike Walter’s crew. With luck we’ll be checking in tomorrow from our new camp!
Do your favorite weather dance for us,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young, and Crew
On The Map
Any birthday cake today brother
Posted by: Mats Carlehog on 5/19/2016 at 2:57 pm
Yeah Tay!! We are all thinking about you (and in the groupchat) back in SB and how much fun you are having up there. Can’t wait to hear your stories and see your photos!
Les and DC groupchat
Posted by: Les Morales on 5/19/2016 at 1:44 pm