Entries By dave hahn

Balloon Camp was the perfect final night in Africa for our team, tranquil and wild in equal measures.  There were leopard tracks in the dirt of the driveway this morning.  But the big cats stayed away from us in the day.  We looked hard for the lions, cheetahs and leopards, scanning every acacia branch and watering hole, but all we saw were beautiful birds and herds.  Vultures, eagles, lilac breasted rollers and mongooses, impalas, waterbuck, elan, Zebra, giraffes, elephants, baboons and monkeys.  Until we rolled out of the park entrance at 11 AM and reluctantly left Tarangire.  Adamson and Makubi piloted the Landcruisers along the dusty, busy two-lane toward Mt. Meru and Arusha.  On the outskirts of town, we stopped for a picnic and a perusal of the Cultural Heritage Center.  We pulled into our home away from home, the Arumeru River Lodge at 3PM.  Showered, repacked and regrouped.  We had an early dinner together and chased out to Kilimanjaro Airport as the sun got low.  Now we are in 17A and 42K, etc… winging our way to Amsterdam, where we’ll split up… but only until the next adventure together.  It is too good a team to lose… random reunions in beautiful places are in order. 
Thank you for following along. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Another long, but amazing day out on the safari circuit for the Taos team.  We had a relaxed 9 AM departure from the Plantation Lodge.  Adamson and Makubi took us to a Masai village for a brief tour.  We danced a little,  jumped high, and got inside some small, earthen dwellings to understand how this prominent Tanzanian tribe lives without modern conveniences. Then it was on to Tarangire National Park.  Before long we were deep within this immense network of winding dirt roads, baobab trees, twisting river valleys and animals animals animals.  We no longer stopped for individual zebras and wildebeest, since we were seeing thousands of them.  After the hundredth giraffe and the five hundredth elephant, we started reserving our picture snaps for the babies in the bunch.  We covered mile after mile, exploring and watching out for wildcats, water bucks, elan, impalas and gazelles.  Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro Crater were each wonderful, but both were discreet areas with natural borders hemming them in.  That isn’t the case with Tarangire.  We could see wildlife spread out to the horizons in all directions… the Africa we’d dreamed of.  By day’s end, we pulled into Balloon Camp, an excellent “tent” hotel out in the bush with armed guards to escort us from one tent to another.  Those guards stood vigilant as we enjoyed an outdoor campfire and sumptuous barbecue buffet under the stars (and clouds).  No lions, leopards, or cheetahs intruded on our wonderful dinner but we are still hoping they’ll come for breakfast.  It will be our last morning of Safari and we are still excited to see just what might be out there.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Even on vacation, it was worth getting up early today to get over to Ngorongoro Crater.  We left Plantation Lodge at 7 AM and were up on the crater rim just 90 minutes later.  It was cold, cloudy and windy, but we figured things would be a little more user friendly down in the “crater”.  Technically, it is a caldera… not a crater.  And animals like a good caldera, apparently.
We got down inside and the weather was indeed better, but it never got exactly “good”.  We wore jackets and sweaters (which is par for the course at 7000 ft) but we still opened up the top of our Landcruiser and rolled down the windows.  Immediately, we encountered zebras, and then more zebras.  Wildebeest and then more wildebeest, Cape buffalo by the dozen, Kori bustards and Secretary Birds and ostriches.  And then we saw lions.  Four big fully maned males lounging about and one female who seemed a bit more restless.  We watched hippos doing what hippos do (not much) some more lions, hyenas, jackals, elephants, eagles, vultures and several flavors of gazelle.  We saw tons of animals and kept constant watch out for more.  We came up empty in our rhino search, but that happens.  Not many of them left to see in Tanzania.  Adamson and Makubi, our extremely knowledgeable driver/guides took us all over the crater/caldera.  We climbed back up the steep walls around 4 PM with most everybody a bit sleepy.  Which worked out fine because we were back frolicking in the swimming pool and sipping coldies by 5 at the Plantation Lodge. 
We’ll be well rested and ready for another deluxe safari day tomorrow. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

A day after the big and arduous week on Kilimanjaro, nobody in our team had the slightest trouble rallying for the Safari departure this morning.  We were driving westward just before 8 AM in two souped up and modified Toyota Landcruisers.  Rush hour traffic on the outskirts of Arusha fascinated us, but we were plenty happy to leave it behind and break into open country for a couple of hours.  Lake Manyara National Park was today’s destination.  At first, we stopped for every velvet monkey and baboon, but we gradually grew more demanding and Manyara kept delivering.  We were in game viewing heaven by midday with Cape Buffalo, hippos, thousands of storks and pelicans, zebras, warthogs and wildebeest roaming the lake’s edge.  The forest elephants we saw up close and personal delighted us to no end.  In late afternoon, just when eyelids were beginning to droop and the cruisers were pointed toward the park exit… we had an impromptu and unexpected encounter with a leopard.  Our eyes widened, his/her eyes widened, our cameras clicked and the beautiful cat came toward us and crossed the road in full view for just a magical moment.  The big kitty melted into the brush and we went on our way… amazed at our good fortune.  We drove up the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley (which we learned runs 10,000 kilometers from Jordan to Mozambique) and found our way to the Plantation Lodge.  The perfectly tended gardens, luxurious accommodations, and welcoming staff caused more than one Taoseño to contemplate staying indefinitely in East Africa.  We’ll tear ourselves away for a day in Ngorongoro Crater tomorrow though… luxury can wait. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The perfect climb continued in similar fashion.  We woke under clear skies at 10,000 ft.  Each climber commented on how nice it had been to sleep on level ground and at low altitude.  We ate one last fine mountain meal and then met, across a clearing in the forest, with our entire 54 man support staff.  Philip spoke for his men, expressing gratitude and satisfaction with a week’s worth of hard work on our behalf.  I spoke for our gang -attempting to express our amazement and gratitude at their efforts.  A few songs were sung and gifts exchanged.  We set out down the forest trail and before too long were in thick cloud and eventually rain.  There was some discussion later though, as to whether it was actually rain or just a particularly wet cloud we were in.  It didn’t really matter though, as it didn’t get us very wet and it didn’t last so long.  We picked our way down 4,000 vertical feet of slippery trail without mishap and hit the Mweka Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park.  After some handshakes, photographs and documentation, we loaded the bus and cruised downhill.  Our staff hosted one last amazing lunch on our return, just above the city of Moshi, and then we hit the highway.  Gasps were heard when we finally could look back and see Kilimanjaro towering over the clouds.  (We hadn’t seen it at all before the climb).  It didn’t seem possible for a mountain to be so big. 
As good as the climb had been, nobody was sad to be back at our comfortable lodge with hot showers and fine food and drink.  We relaxed away the afternoon and celebrated away the evening… within limits of course.  The Safari awaits. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Last night at 9:30 pm PST Dave Hahn called from the Kilimanjaro summit! Please click the audio button below to listen to his update from the Roof of Africa.

7:48 am PST
By any measure, this was a big day.  For one thing, it began yesterday.  At 11:30 PM precisely, we woke at 15,200 ft to begin our summit attempt.  The moon was brilliant, high clouds and wind were non-existent… It was the perfect night for climbing.  Our team assembled in the dining tent at midnight to swill coffee and porridge.  By the time we were walking out of camp at 12:30, we’d already sung a few rounds of happy birthday to the 18 year-old twins, Max and Simon.  Philip Mbise, our lead guide, brought the team skillfully, politely, and steadily through a hundred potential traffic jams.  Everybody was out and on the move, but many were having the normal difficulties with the altitude, the terrain and the cold, so by merely keeping our team at a rock-steady “Pole Pole” pace, Philip passed team after team as we worked higher.  Most of us didn’t turn our headlights on until just before the crater rim, when we tore through a moon shadow.  We hit Stella Point -on the rim- at 5:30 AM, still in darkness, but with an enchanting light show going on between imminent daybreak in the east and moon mania in the west.  One hour later… at exactly 6:30, the sun rose and our entire team arrived together at Uhuru… The true summit of Kilimanjaro and Africa.  It was cold, we’d been wearing down jackets for the last few hours to the top, but it was an absolutely magical and beautiful moment.  There, at 19,340 ft, we celebrated those birthdays, the bonds of family and close friendships, and the wonders of the world.  As we watched, a shadow of Kilimanjaro formed in the atmosphere to the West, exactly coinciding with the only landform breaking the surface of the cloud sea, the 16,000-foot pyramid of Mount Meru.  As if that weren’t enough, the full moon sat just above the twin apexes of ethereal and stone summits in the sky.  We took pictures, hugged one another and wandered about wide-eyed and exhilarated.  We left the summit at 7:00 and two hours and fifteen minutes later, this strong team was back in high camp.  We had a grand feast of a brunch, capped off with a birthday cake which was hand delivered to Barafu from Arusha just yesterday.  And then, at 11 AM we skedaddled and headed for Mweka Camp.  Walking in pleasant weather, we reached camp at about 10,000 feet by 2:15 -earning a restful afternoon lounging in our forest camp. 
The shoutouts today go to our own team… All of whom broke their previous altitude records.  Special mention to 14 year-old Ella Green who absolutely crushed the day.  To 16 year-old Zach Ginn, who would have gone on for another 5,000 feet if the mountain hadn’t abruptly ended at 19,340.  To our three 18 year-old brothers… Tyrone Green, Simon and Max Mount each of whom demonstrated uncommon discipline, maturity and good humor on a long tough day. 
The loudest of shoutouts to Philip, to Freddy Kileo, to Gama Samvel, to Naiman Metil, to Venance Vicent, and Said Mwanja for flawless guidance. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Karanga Camp was kind to us.  After a calm, full moon night there, we had an easy and pleasant morning above the clouds.  Those that got up in the night even glimpsed the lights of Moshi and other cities shining up from far below.  We left just before 9 AM and made our way up broad and open terrain with the great cliffs and glaciers of Kibo towering overhead.  With little or no vegetation in this alpine zone it was possible to see hundreds of porters, climbers, guides and assorted staff stretching out forever ahead of and behind us. 
We made good time on the relatively easy path and pulled into our 15,200 ft high camp at noon with everybody feeling strong and cheerful.  Barafu Camp is on a rock ridge with grand views of the climb to come and of just about everything else in the universe.  Clouds built up in the afternoon, which we welcomed for giving a little relief from the strong high altitude sunshine.  We ate, and ate, and ate as Tosha Minja, our remarkable chef served up a feast to remember.  We’ll rest a bit now, eat an early supper and turn in early as well.  We’ve got big work to do in the night, a climb to the Roof of Africa... Luckily, we’ve got 11 strong and eager climbers and seven capable and enthusiastic guides to help get the job done. 

Best regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Greetings from Karanga Camp. We’ll be spending the night at the same elevation as Wheeler Peak -at 13,161 ft, the highest point in New Mexico (which most of us call home). The day began back in the cold and shady Barranco Valley. We were at the upper edge of the clouds this morning and we got swallowed up by them shortly after our 9 AM departure. There was plenty of anticipation and perhaps a little trepidation at the chance to come to grips with the great Barranco Wall. The team handled the rough and rocky “trail” well, moving safely from ledge to ledge while dodging hundreds of heavily laden, hard charging porters. We spent a fair bit of time simply standing and waiting in line at the various bottlenecks that developed around the dicier moves. But our gang was patient and sure-footed… The perfect mix of traits and talents for getting through the day.  We were cloaked in thick fog for our entire walk beyond the wall. The team never saw the Karanga Valley itself -our last encounter with Lobelias and Senecios. We just knew we were in it by the steep descent and just as steep ascent out the opposite side.  And that put us in a fog shrouded camp at 2 PM where our tents were already up and the table was set for lunch. The afternoon was spent resting.  Some enjoyed the quiet of their tents while others played a laugh-filled Uno tournament with the local guides and waiters. Just before sunset, the clouds dropped away to reveal unreal views of Kibo bathed in golden light. It was one of those magical times when we didn’t know whether to focus on the setting sun, the rising moon or the glowing glaciers above. It all added up to another great day on a mountainside in Africa. 

Today’s shoutouts… TG loves MV… and a long distance happy birthday to my brother Hal. 

Best Regards,
Dave Hahn

A wind started up in Shira Camp last night, rattling the tents and nerves but not knocking down anything vital in the process.  Once we were up and about in the cool morning air, we knew a little steady breeze wouldn’t stop us from our day’s mission.  We were on the move at 8:20 and before long we’re stripping off hats and gloves and superfluous clothing layers.  The walking was much easier than on the last two days, even if it was at progressively higher elevations.  We all found the rock and vegetation surrounding us to be remarkably similar to the sagebrush mesas of Northern New Mexico -home to the majority of the team.  Once again, we were above a sea of cloud and once again Kibo was free of cloud and shining in the distance.  This time though, the distance was steadily reduced as we walked directly toward Kilimanjaro’s central peak and hanging glaciers.  After just two hours, we’d managed to surpass all altitude records within the group, save one.  Alexis had been higher in Peru.  All others were breaking new ground as we hit 15,200 ft at the Lava Tower.  We had a great lunch in the sun up there, checking out the formidable slopes of the Western Breach and the giant frozen waterfalls below the remnant glaciers.  And then we got cruising downhill toward Barranco Camp and its lush gardens of Lobelias and Senecios.  We dove back into cloud to hit camp at 13,000 ft. but were granted a stupendous evening look at our surroundings as the clouds broke at sunset and a giant moon rose over the fabled Barranco Wall -tomorrow’s first goal. 
A big shout out from the team to Grandma Yoohoo!  All is well in Tanzania tonight. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

The clouds blanketed Machame Camp for much of the night and we even had brief periods of rain… all of which made it feel wonderful to wake to crystal clear skies in the morning.  We were just on top of thick layers of cloud, but finally we had unobstructed views of Kibo (Kilimanjaro’s main peak) above. 
We ate breakfast and marched out of camp at 8:20, immediately encountering a steep and rocky trail up through a forest of giant heather.  There were large numbers of porters -ours and those of neighboring teams- balancing loads on their heads as they wove through the straight up stream of morning traffic.  The clouds rose up and swallowed us again for several hours as we steadily gained altitude.  Up around 12,000 ft we broke free again and had a better look at the exotic giant scenecios among the heather.  16,000 ft Mount Meru became visible to the west as another island in the cloud sea.  We began a traverse along shelves of lava with the boys keeping a sharp eye out for crystals among the ancient flows.  The gang easily handled a few steeper steps and we reached a high point of 12,800 ft before dropping down into Shira Camp at 12,500 ft.  Then it was an easy and peaceful afternoon of eating napping eating and eating some more.  We were treated to a magical evening as the
  sun dropped into the clouds out beyond the Shira Plateau and the moon and stars took over at entertaining us. 
Everybody is happy and healthy tonight and getting easily into the rhythms of camp and climbing life. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map