Entries By dave hahn

June 23, 2017 10:00 pm PST

It didn’t seem terribly cold this morning at 5:30, Around 17 F or so, which made it a little easier to get up and rally for “the carry”.  We got out on the trail by a quarter to eight.  Finally we were wearing crampons and holding ice axes like mountain climbers (to this point it has been snowshoes and ski poles).  The track was in great condition -well packed snow- due to the large number of teams that have passed through since the last storm.  We cruised up the steep Motorcycle Hill, and navigated the squirrely Squirrel Hill and found ourselves in the Polo Field below the end of the West Buttress before the sun caught us.  Another hour brought us to a decidedly calm Windy Corner.  We slipped around the corner, getting great views of Foraker, Hunter and finally Denali, in the process.  We cached food and fuel at 13,500 ft -our target for the day- and had an easy walk back down to camp at 11K with relatively empty packs.  It was exhilarating to be out of the deep valley at last and to be crossing ridges and turning corners with all the big views.  But it was also nice to get back to our camp and to have a calm afternoon to rest after our labors.  We ate dinner and made preparations for our big move up to 14K tomorrow. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

June 22, 2017
Rope teams came and went in the early morning today, and we stayed comfy in bed.  The guides were desperate for coffee by 8:30, but the sun and full breakfast didn’t show up until after 9.  Our rest day consisted of long, leisurely meals in the dining tent separated by naps and reading sessions.  It was a fine and sunny day at 11K.  We sorted loads for the carry tomorrow and discussed climbing techniques.  Each climber and guide prepared for the after-dinner poetry slam suggested by Anja.  There were haikus and limericks, remembered verses and spontaneous rhymes… There was much laughter, some genuine applause and plenty of food for thought.  And then there was the swirling cloud endless evening light show of Alaska. We’re all excited to go climbing tomorrow.

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

June 21, 2017
It snowed a couple of inches overnight at 9500 ft but skies were clear by morning.  A cool breeze kept us in bed for a little while, but we were on the trail by 9:30 and making slow and steady progress toward the head of the Kahiltna Glacier.  We could almost see all of its forty-seven mile length stretched out below us as we turned East at Kahiltna Pass.  The cool breeze was nowhere to be found as we worked up steeper hills at midday.  We made it into 11,000 ft Camp at 1 PM and were happy to see our friends on Mike Haugen’s team.  They kindly helped to shovel tent sites for us and gave us some “starter water” to make us feel at home.  The day had turned out to be stunningly nice… Which is always a good thing on the solstice.  We gazed in wonder at the bright clean angular chunks of glacier hanging all around us and at the formidable rock of the NW and West Buttresses.  Camp went up smoothly and quickly and we crawled in the tents to beat the heat for a few hours.  Evening was a social whirl as guides and climbers from all over the world had reunions and wished each other well as they went in opposite directions.  We will take a much deserved rest day tomorrow and look forward to catching up on sleep, reading, and hydration. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

June 20, 2017
The alarm went off at 3 AM but we didn’t leave camp until close to noon.  Winds built as we ate breakfast and the thought of walking straight up into a cold and snowy down glacier breeze was unappealing.  We did what we often do in such circumstances… We dragged our feet and waited to see which way the weather might trend.  We got out our already packed sleeping bags and waited in the early morning shadows.  When the sun came out, we were still waiting.  By 11 things were not so different, but it wasn’t nearly as cold.  And so we packed up and made our move.  As is normal, the glacier was in far better condition as we worked up Ski Hill.  We had just a handful of easy crevasses to cross before we reached the stable ice up at 9500 ft.  We pulled into our unbuilt new home just before 4PM and got busy building.  Clouds had built up below us, overtaking our last camp and by evening we were in light snow from the clouds just up glacier, but we still had great views of Mts Foraker and Hunter to our South.  The team turned in at 8 PM.  Higher and happier with each passing day. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST

Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the Kahiltna Glacier.  Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds.  We got stoves going and began to dress for success.  The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb.  The glacier didn’t have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful.  We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier.  We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9.  Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp.  T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun.  By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent.  Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day.  We’ll gladly take another day of this “storm”.

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case.  Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of Basecamp initially.  We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit.  Then we loaded the planes.  Then we fidgeted a bit more.  Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on.  We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway.  We were off!  But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna.  We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real.  The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range.  Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene.  We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones.  Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers.  We’d stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us.  Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day.  We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon.  We’ll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport… having come from far and wide to form our Denali climbing team.  A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM.  Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain.  It wasn’t all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee.  Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station.  We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far.  Indeed, we’d begun the day walking the streets in steady rain.  By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up.  We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over.  We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud.  By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes.  The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek.  It is high season for tourism in Alaska.  We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for “getting on” in the morning.  Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb. 
With a little more improvement in the weather, we’ll be on our way. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Dave Hahn reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Dave reported clear sunny skies above 7000’ with winds of about 15 mph from the North. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s team!

The Four Day Summit Climb June 4-7 led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Pepper Dee were unable to reach the summit today due to high winds and deteriorating weather.  Both teams ascended to 13,500’ this morning but were forced to turn around due to weather.  The teams will return to Camp Muir to re-pack and take a short rest before descending to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 21 - 26, 2017 led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Steve Gately have spent the week training at Camp Muir.  Today they made an alpine start for their summit attempt.  The team reached the summit around 8 am and was able to enjoy the views.  Dave Hahn reported a light cloud cap on the summit and otherwise good conditions.  The team will return to Camp Muir today for their final night on the mountain.  They will complete their program tomorrow and wrap up with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today’s team!