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Entries By jackson breen


Mt. Rainier: Grom, Bealer & Teams Unable to Climb due to Winds and Weather

The June 13 - 16 Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom & James Bealer were unable to make a summit attempt due to high winds overnight as well as avalanche conditions.  The Camp Muir telemetry shows winds over 70 mph.  Around 7 am the weather had improved, the team was going to do some avalanche forecast training.  The teams have packed up and started their descent from Camp Muir.  We look forward to greeting them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Photo: James Bealer

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Denali Expedition: JT Schmitt & Team SUMMIT!

Thursday, June 2, 2022 1:35 am PT

SUMMIT! 

The last two weeks of working hard on Denali payed off today. At 5:30 pm today we stood on top of the highest point in North America!

It was a beautiful sunny day, with a bit of wind but not too much to turn us around. It was a relatively quiet day with only a few other teams trying for the summit. The team performed incredibly well and summited in style! Now we are back at 17 camp, enjoying clear views all the way down to the tundra, where you can see the Alaskan sun shimmering off lakes over 15,000 feet below us.

Tomorrow we start the process of retracing our steps back down the mountain.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

CONGRATS!! It’s absolutely incredible to follow your journey and to see this great news!

Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 6/5/2022 at 9:28 pm

Yay!!! Congratulations!!! I’ve had so much fun following you along your climb. Big congratulations to my brother, Scott - I am SO PROUD of you! Way to go, team!

Love, Julie

Posted by: Julie Joyce on 6/3/2022 at 3:19 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make the move to 17,000 Camp

Tuesday, May 31, 2022 - 10:08 pm PT

We woke up to a beautiful morning at 14,000' Camp and decided to move to 17,000'! The team did well and the forecast looks good for tomorrow. Stay tuned to see what we get up to tomorrow!

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Exciting news!  Thanks as always for the updates - sending lots of high-altitude best wishes!

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 6/1/2022 at 8:38 am

Fantastico! Hola from Spain and best of luck on the summit push!

Posted by: Caleb on 6/1/2022 at 8:14 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Take Another Rest Day

Monday, May 30, 2022 - 10:43 pm PT

Today we rested again at 14,000' Camp. The team has been soaking up the rest, eating lots of food and drinking plenty of fluids. Thanks for following along and we will keep you posted on what we end up doing tomorrow!

Thanks,

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi JT Schmitt I am your Great Aunt who lives on a farm by Cresco Iowa.  Your Granddad Joe is my brother.  I am so happy to beable to keep in touch with you way up in the air.  I will stay where it is nice and warm.  The farming is going good for the farmers around here.  Crops all in and growing. I hope to see you in august this year.  Hope is works out.  Just want to say Hello from Iowa.  auntie Joyce PS Be safe you and the rest of the climbers

Posted by: joyce mrachek on 5/31/2022 at 5:28 pm

Rest well.  Exciting days ahead!

Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/31/2022 at 8:08 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000ft Camp

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:20 pm PT

The team enjoyed a beautiful day at 14,000' Camp today, resting from the days prior and preparing for the days ahead! We are planning to rest again tomorrow, after the last ten days the team deserves it!

RMI Guides JT, Jackson, Matias and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Looks as though you’ve all built quite a lovely camp there at 14K - hard to imagine a better view!  (Are those skis near that snow wall?  Ambitious!)

Enjoy the rest and thank you for all the updates - they really mean a lot.

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/29/2022 at 11:01 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Cache Gear at 17,000’

May 29 12:04am PT

This morning we woke up with the goal of caching gear and food as close to 17 camp as possible. As we passed each of the normal places people cache below 17 camp, such as the top of the fixed lines, below Washburns thumb etc., we just couldn’t find a reason to not keep going.

The weather was perfect, not a whisper of wind, and the views endless. The team was performing extremely well at such high altitude for the first time this trip, not to mention how they floated through the most technical terrain we’ve encountered thus far, so we went all the way to 17,000 ft camp. After digging ourselves a hole to cache in, we retraced our steps back down the west buttress and the fixed lines until we rolled into camp just as the shadow of the mountain engulfed the tent city.

All in all, a successful day completed by a strong team!

Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Strong team makes big progress at high altitudes. We love it!

Posted by: Amy Houston on 5/30/2022 at 4:59 am

Way to go guys!  Thinking of you all and hoping for fair weather the next few days.  Just back from a week of sailing in gale force winds on the west coast of Scotland so am very glad you don’t have that!!  Love, Charles and Jennifer.

Posted by: Charles Platt on 5/29/2022 at 12:53 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Enjoy a Rest Day

Friday May 27, 2022 10:37pm PT

It was a beautiful day today at 14,000' camp. We slept in, ate breakfast burritos, then napped, read and ate some more.

After reviewing some more mountaineering skills, we ate more burritos for dinner. With the sunny skies, warm temperatures and the menu today, it almost felt like we were in Mexico.

Stay tuned for what we get up to tomorrow!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great progress so far! Hope you enjoy some well deserved R&R!

Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/29/2022 at 6:56 am

Go Team RMI - sending positive thoughts and wishes from Mount Washington NH!

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2022 at 3:47 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Back Carry

Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT

Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day. 

Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!

Thanks for following.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love seeing this top of the world images and imagining all you strong climbers taking it in.  Good luck and thanks for sending these back down to the rest of us cheering for you!

Posted by: Sarah Williams on 6/1/2022 at 6:50 am

Hi Ken!  Really enjoying the updates and pictures of the magnificent scenery!
Hope you and your teammates are all doing well!
Diane & John

Posted by: Diane & John Bertosa on 5/28/2022 at 10:52 am


Denanli Expedition: Schmitt & Team Make the Move to 14,000ft Camp

Thursday, May 26, 2022 - 1:09 am PT

Today started with a classic case of the Denali waiting game due to another snowy morning at 11,000' Camp. After breakfast we waited (mostly packed) in our tents to see what the weather was going to do.

As we waited in nervous anticipation, the only sounds you could hear was the flit, flit, flit of snow falling against the tent, the occasional clang of a pot from somewhere in camp, and the ziiiiiip of a tent opening just enough for a restless head to peek out and look up the mountain.

At around 930 the clouds broke enough for us to see that the winds were not blowing around the newly fallen snow, so in organized chaos we finished packing up and departed camp.

We then spent the day in and out of the clouds which saved us from the heat we have become quite accustomed to trying to avoid.

And now we are all set up at 14,000' Camp and looking forward to some rest after a hard week!

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the rest of the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Enjoy your R&R at 14, and good luck when it’s time to move higher! Great following your excellent progress upwards!

Posted by: Henry & Kathy Huntington on 5/26/2022 at 9:11 am

AMAZING! Keep the post coming. They are a highlight of our day. :)

Posted by: Pat & Amy Breen on 5/26/2022 at 8:08 am


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Carry Gear to 13,500ft

Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 7:42 pm PT

What a day it was today! We were able to cache at 13,500 ft. The winds were calm all day, and the clouds were only below us, which created a sense of floating through the sky as we carried out gear up the mountain.

Now we are back at 11,000' Camp, all safe and sound!!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to hear!! Sam you’re crushing it!!

Posted by: Ramsay Bader on 5/25/2022 at 8:30 pm

Great job everybody!  Thinking of you every day and hoping you’re having a great climb.  Love you Clare and Sam!

Posted by: Kathy Huntington on 5/25/2022 at 3:08 pm

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