Entries By taylor bickford
September 2, 2019
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Taylor Bickford led their Four Day Climb August 30 - 2 September teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Pete reported a light breeze and nice climbing conditions as the team was approaching the crater rim around 8:30 AM. After photos and high-fives on the summit the team will return to Camp Muir and continue their descent to Paradise. There program will conclude this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today’s climbers!
Congratulations Kerry & Jeff, you did it…..never a doubt! We miss you, just know, it’s 100 degrees in Colorado today, the snow looks very refreshing. See you soon. Kisses
Posted by: Grandma on 9/2/2019 at 2:39 pm
Awesome Jeff & Kerry! What a great feeling it must be to train and accomplish such a feat
Posted by: Tom Hutcheson on 9/2/2019 at 11:08 am
July 27, 2019
The Four Day Climb Teams led by Taylor Bickford and Joe Hoch radioed down this morning to let us know that they turned at 12,300’ due to high winds and deteriorating conditions on the upper mountain. The team was safely back in Camp Muir by 7:45 AM PT. After drying out a little and resting, the team will descend from Camp Muir and be back in town this afternoon.
June 30, 2019
Sunday, June 30, 2019 - 5:16 PM PT
We’re enjoying the thick air at Camp 4, at 14,200’ in Genet Basin. We got a good night’s sleep last night, slept in this morning and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and bacon. An ample coffee. Today we are resting and waiting for colder temps by which to travel. There is a weather front affecting Denali right now, bringing winds up high and clouds and precipitation down low. We’re sitting in between in the sun and happy at 14k. Our hope is that we can travel through the night down the Kahiltna Glacier to the Basecamp Airstrip and that cloud and precip will dissipate tomorrow so that we can fly back to Talkeetna. We’ll let you know how it goes.
On The Map
Talk about dining with a view!! I always love hearing about the food :-P
Have a safe trip down!
Posted by: Savannah on 7/1/2019 at 11:02 am
I’m sure they’d rather celebrate with their new friends at Club 14 than rush home.
Posted by: Keith and Regine on 7/1/2019 at 9:08 am
June 29, 2019
Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 4:46 PM PT
After a good night’s sleep at high camp we woke up with the sun, had breakfast, and packed up camp. We descended the West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall and made it back to the 14k Camp by noon to beat the heat of the day.
We’ve decided to spend the night here and rest. Our plan is to spend tomorrow here also and wait until colder weather at night to travel back to the airstrip at Kahiltna Basecamp. With any luck we will be flying back to Talkeetna on Monday. We’ll keep you posted with our downhill progress. But for now we’re enjoying some well-deserved rest in preparation for a long descent.
On The Map
Congratulations to Ethan and Mylan. You have lived your dream! We are so glad to hear that you are safe and on your desent. Mom and dad
Posted by: Shoshana Mark on 6/30/2019 at 11:38 am
What a strong emotion you must have experienced ! Congratulations for your wisdom and strength to all of you during this ascent. Have a very safe trip back.
Mylan, that is simply amazing :-) I hope to see you soon to hear about all this adventure !
Posted by: Cécile Boineau on 6/30/2019 at 2:02 am
June 29, 2019
Friday, June 28, 2019 - 8:38 PM PT
The wind last night was strong, but it tapered in the morning. And it was crystal clear. We left camp and tackled the Autobahn up to Denali Pass where we were finally greeted by sunlight. Then it was up past Zebra Rocks and into the Football Field. One last climb up Pig Hill and we were on the exposed, corniced summit ridge. Everyone from our team summited today. It was a beautiful and warm summit day with only a breath of wind. Ten hours round trip and we’re back at camp getting ready to eat dinner. Tomorrow we’ll bump down to 14K and play it by ear from there.
On The Map
Congrats to Eric and the team on a job well done! Can’t wait for everyone to come down safely and warm up :)
Posted by: Savannah on 7/1/2019 at 10:59 am
Congratulations Eric and team!!! An amazing accomplishment!
Posted by: Annie on 6/30/2019 at 9:36 pm
June 27, 2019
Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 10:22 AM PT
We woke up and fired up the stoves early again today, hopeful for good climbing weather. But the clouds that were lingering above us at 4:30am have descended and engulfed the Denali, including our camp. We are currently back in our tents staying warm and dry. There is near zero visibility with light winds and precipitation and high humidity. Unless things turn around quickly, we’ll chalk today up as another day to rest and acclimate. We’re hoping for improving conditions the next couple of days.
On The Map
What a suspense ! Hope you’re not getting too impatient ! :)
Posted by: BOINEAU Marie-Cécile on 6/27/2019 at 10:13 pm
Sooooo hoping yall can summit today!!!! Best of luck!!! Team Casey!!!!
Posted by: Mindy on 6/27/2019 at 10:05 pm
June 26, 2019
Wednesday, June 26, 2019 - 3:30 PM PT
We had hopes of making a summit push today, but as we were gearing up early this morning winds began to increase and a lenticular cloud cap began forming on the summit. So we pumped the brakes to see what would materialize. As it turned out, the cloud cap continued to materialize. Eventually we pulled the plug on the waiting game. We’ll use today a a rest day (although the weather is making it unable to climb, it is not too uncomfortable at camp). We’re hoping for calmer winds tomorrow so we can give it a go.
On The Map
Sending you all warm thoughts & good vibes!!! Stay smart and strong! And go CK go!!!!
Posted by: Dove on 6/27/2019 at 10:06 am
Trusts you instincts and analysis Mike. Best of luck with the timing and success of the last stretch.
Posted by: Pieter Swart on 6/26/2019 at 10:49 pm
June 25, 2019
Tuesday, June 25, 2019 - 5:24 PM PT
The early wake up call in the cold was well worth it as our team was able to move efficiently up the fixed ropes and along the ridge to Denali High Camp. We arrives by noon, which gave us ample time to build camp and get some rest. The weather is beautiful, and almost warm in the sun. If this weather persists through tomorrow we will give the summit a shot. We won’t know until we wake up, but we’re optimistic.
On The Map
I’m so excited for you all! You’re getting really close to the summit. This is what you all trained for! Wishing you a continued safe climb.
Posted by: Amanda Day on 6/25/2019 at 7:32 pm
Way to go team! The summit is in sight!
Posted by: Arie Rowaan on 6/25/2019 at 6:55 pm
June 24, 2019
Monday, June 24, 2019 - 1:19 PM PT
We’re taking a rest day today after a big day yesterday and in preparation of moving to High Camp on Denali for our summit bid. The weather is sunny today even though snow and clouds were forecasted. We’re hoping to move to High Camp in the next day or two if we get a weather forecast that looks favorable for a summit attempt. In the meantime, we’re resting and acclimating and getting stronger.
On The Map
Aloha from Hawai’i! It may usually be a tropical paradise out here, but so far today it’s all heavy rain and thunderstorms (which are a real rarity). Loving all the pictures, and hope everyone is having a great time on the climb. Keep getting stronger, and can’t wait to hear more soon! Sending positive vibes to everyone on the team, especially our friend Eric. :)
Posted by: Savannah on 6/25/2019 at 11:58 am
I’m following the blog everyday. All of you stay safe. The pictures are gorgeous.
Posted by: Owa on 6/24/2019 at 2:39 pm
June 23, 2019
Sunday, June 23, 2019 - 6:53 PM PT
We woke early again this morning and the weather did not disappoint. Clear skies with a beautiful early morning alpenglow on Foraker and Hunter greeted us as we fired the stoves. We woke the team at 5am and we were on the move by 7am. Our goal: to get a cache of food and fuel up high on the West Buttress Ridge, ideally to high camp at 17,200’.
The sun was still behind the West Rib of Denali and we climbed the approach slopes and most of the fixed ropes in the shade. The sun found us at around 16,000’ and was a welcome companion for the rest of the day as the team climbed the aesthetic ridge from 16,200’ to 17,200’. We made it to high camp in good form and dug a hole in the snow in which to leave our cache. After an hour and a half breathing the rare air of 17,200’, we descended back to camp, the climb took us almost 5 1/2 hours and we descended in 2 1/2 hours.
We’ll enjoy a good night’s rest tonight and then take a rest day tomorrow. That should put us in perfect position to take advantage of the next good weather window for a summit bid.
On The Map
Thank you for the updates, glad to see you’re alive. Can’t wait to hear all about your trip, stay safe. Love you
Posted by: Courtney Urban on 6/24/2019 at 8:29 am
Go CK! You are an inspiration! Stay strong and be safe! Sending you good vibes! Can’t wait to hear all about it, so make sure you come back in one piece!
Posted by: Dove on 6/24/2019 at 6:33 am