Entries By taylor bickford
July 28, 2018
RMI Guide Steve Gately called in from the Summit of Mt. Shuksan. The team reached the summit via the Fisher Chimneys route. The team climb strong and efficiently making it possible climb the summit pyramid in 45 minutes. The weather was clear, but smoke from wildfires did fill the air. The team is on their descent and headed back to their high camp where they will spend the evening, tomorrow they will trek out returning to Glacier, WA.
Congratulations to today’s team!
Sounds like a dream climb. Hi Glo of my life!
Posted by: Michelle on 7/29/2018 at 10:57 am
July 22, 2018
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team climbed both Sahale and Sharkfin Tower yesterday. The team reported great climbing and 100% to the top for the two peaks! Today, the team climbed Forbidden Peak by its iconic and classic West Ridge and were standing on the summit at 10:20 this morning.
Way to go team!
July 15, 2018
Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:56 PM PT
This afternoon we received a dispatch from RMI Guide Zeb Blais on Forbidden Peak in Washington State’s Cascade Pass. The team reported beautiful weather and a successful climb. They will spend some time on top before beginning their descent of the technical West Ridge.
July 9, 2018
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Four Day Summit Climb July 6 - 9 made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Casey reported windy conditions as they began their descent from the crater rim at 7:30 AM PT. The team will descend to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb team!
Congrats to the entire team! Casey, Jessie and Taylor we thank you!
Tom (The Bomb)
Posted by: Tom Barbitta on 7/11/2018 at 9:16 am
Congrats on your Rainier Summit, that is amazing. I am planning to go there Tuesday night and for early Wednesday for the Summit through DC route, would like to know how the route is after camp muir. Do we need to know anything about the route and any safety precautions while on the route. Was there a ladder in the route? Your response is much appreciated.
Posted by: Shashi on 7/9/2018 at 2:07 pm
June 26, 2018
The Kautz Seminar, led by Steve Gately, was on top of Mt. Rainier at 9:45 a.m. The team is working their way back to their camp where they will stay another night and descend from the mountain tomorrow.
Congratulations to our Seminar team!
June 10, 2018
Saturday, June 9, 2018 - 11:13 PM PT
After a late night making dinner and filling water bottles, we were content to sleep in a bit until the sun hit the tents and made things a bit warmer. With packs full, we rallied back along the West Buttress, beating the oncoming traffic to the fixed lines. We rendezvoused with Tyler Jones’s team at 14,000’, where they were so kind as to hook us up with water and high fives, then we kept the train rolling down to 11, where Mike King’s team let us use their kitchen tent and had already dug up our cache for us. We’re going to sleep a few hours here, then wake up in the (not) dark (it’s Alaska in the summer time) to walk the last piece to base camp, aiming to be there for first flights in the morning. Keeping our fingers crossed for flyable weather and a cold IPA before noon!
On The Map
So looking forward to seeing you! And hearing all the stories! Save journey down and off to Talkeetna! I’m in dunker training all Monday, so I’ll see you in in evening! Love you!
Posted by: Kathy on 6/10/2018 at 11:37 am
So happy to hear your news of the day! Looking forward to hearing you are down safely!
Posted by: Ken and Beckie Ruggles on 6/10/2018 at 9:16 am
June 9, 2018
Saturday, June 9, 2018 1:04 AM
The couple weeks of hauling massive loads, sitting through snow storms, sunburns, and eating way too much bacon culminated in that fleeting joy of standing on the summit of Denali this afternoon! Our forecasts have been a bit vague, and sometimes less than confidence inspiring, but we woke up this morning to stellar conditions. It was clear, calm as a koala with a full belly of eucalyptus, and the sun promised to warm things from the forecasted overnight temp of -25. We made our way across the autobahn, glad to see the sun part way across. We ticked off the stretches: zebra rocks, arch deacons tower, the football field, pig hill, and the iconic summit ridge. After 8.5 hours of climbing, we were standing on the summit! It was a warm, beautiful day, with an intense sky of clouds that had built at all levels, making surrounding Alaska incredibly dramatic. After our photos and some time, it was time to head home.
We are safely back in camp working on a late dinner. Tomorrow we hope to descend to the land of oxygen and warmer temps, hopefully 11,000’ or 7600’ camp.
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and Team
On The Map
Way to go Henry and Caleb! Awesome achievement. Look forward to hearing details when you get back.
Posted by: Charles Platt on 6/11/2018 at 1:53 pm
MANY congratulations to the whole TEAM!! That’s an awesome effort by one and all - look forward to hearing details from Henry and Caleb and seeing lots of pictures. Thank you to the guides!!
Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 6/11/2018 at 1:30 pm
June 8, 2018
Friday, June 8, 2018 - 9:27 AM PT
It’s been a long day so this will be short, but we woke up to calm conditions above and decided to pull the trigger on our move to High Camp at 17,000’. As we got out of camp, it started to snow and had us a bit nervous about conditions on the Buttress, but as we crested the fixed lines, winds were calm. We walked through snow for the whole day, but it stayed warm and calm, and we rolled into 17,000ft, set up camp, and are ready to go for the summit tomorrow should the opportunity present!
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team
On The Map
Raj, did you get any summit pics? Hope you didn’t forget to snap a few. -E.
Posted by: erik dietz on 6/9/2018 at 11:53 am
Can’t believe you are so close to the Summit. Scott, here’s to great success, joy beyond belief when you get there and a safe journey down. Congrats to you and all the other climbers and guides.
Posted by: Glenda Bemis on 6/9/2018 at 5:23 am
June 7, 2018
Wednesday, June 6, 2018 - 10:39 PM PT
The wolf huffed and puffed, but not on our house today. We woke up early after a short, but intense burst of snow last night, and things looked great. By the time we were done with breakfast though, we were watching huge plumes of snow sail off Denali’s upper mountain, which gave us pause. We slowed our roll, and spent the morning watching to see if winds would abate. They did finally, but not until 4 pm or so, way too late for us. We’ll try again tomorrow and hope for a different outcome. In the meantime, we are sitting through another intense bout of snow, turning everything white.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford
On The Map
Rich and Team…congrats to you all for an amazing journey!! We have kept you all in our thoughts and prayers for a successful and safe climb. Can’t wait to hear all about it and see the amazing pictures! Love Mom and Dad
Posted by: Richard Lewis on 6/9/2018 at 6:01 am
I seriously refresh this page every single morning to see the latest updates. I appreciate the blog and am so happy to see everyone is doing well. Wishing for some good weather and that everyone makes it to summit!!!
Steve- I love and miss you so much. Chika, Lloyd and I can’t wait for you to come home.
Posted by: Misty on 6/7/2018 at 9:34 pm
June 6, 2018
Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 10:46 PM PT
So there we were, standing in our cook tent on Mount Denali. This morning was a beautiful morning, and it really doesn’t get much better here in Alaska, but tomorrow’s forecast had been showing elevated winds for some time. With that stability of forecast, it didn’t look like a summit day tomorrow, so we decided to drag our feet at 14,000’ for one more day. It was a beautiful rest day, well enjoyed by the whole team. The cook tent was humming this evening with the energy of expectation of a move to 17,000 ft Camp tomorrow. We are all excited and ready, and can’t wait to give high fives to RMI’s Denali Team led by Mike Walter as we pass them on Denali’s West Buttress.
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team
On The Map
Hope you are taking it all in, warm and comfy. Did you bring smores?
Posted by: Tim on 6/7/2018 at 3:48 am
Good luck tomorrow John and Raj…i know you’ll summit! Anxious to see your push become reality!
Posted by: Sue Mamer on 6/6/2018 at 2:13 pm