Entries By alan davis
September 12, 2019
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Alan Davis met at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday for their Technical Training day. The team loaded packs and headed to Camp Muir on Monday morning. They have spent the last few days training near Camp Muir on glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. This morning they put their training to the test, leaving Camp Muir with an alpine start. They were rewarded with clear skies and light winds as they reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 8 AM. Once they have taken all the hero shots and enjoyed the views, they will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow the team will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp for the conclusion of their program.
Congratulations to the Seminar teams!
Congrats team! Chris, we miss you and can’t wait to see all the photos! Love you
Posted by: Kristen B on 9/16/2019 at 11:10 pm
Congratulations Kristopher! We are so excited and proud of you. We can’t wait to see your pictures of this extreme adventure! Mom and Dad
Posted by: Sheri Johnson on 9/13/2019 at 3:28 pm
September 2, 2019
Posted by: Alan Davis
RMI Guide Alan Davis called in this morning from Mt. Baker. Last night he and his team made a sunset climb via the Easton Glacier. The team reached 9,700’ before turning around. They have left their camp and plan to be off the mountain in the next couple of hours.
August 20, 2019
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Alan Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. When asked how conditions are on the summit, Andy reported that it was a “beautiful day.” The teams began their descent from Mt. Rainier’s crater rim around 7:00 AM. They will return to Ashford this afternoon.
August 9, 2019
The Four Day Climb August 6 -9 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Alan Davis. Robby reported a beautiful day with no winds and a great route. The team enjoyed some time on the summit before descending from the crater rim en route to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today’s climbers!
Thanks again for for the experience! Not all the way to the top for me, but still an unbelievable view and great challenge. You guys are professional, empathetic, and caring of your clients, and one couldn’t ask for anything more. I’ll be back for the challenge, and we’ll get it done.
Posted by: Anthony Brune on 8/12/2019 at 5:53 pm
Have you guys made it back to Paradise? It’s almost 9pm.
Posted by: Paige Cline on 8/9/2019 at 7:37 pm
August 5, 2019
Posted by: Alan Davis
Our Five-Day Mt. Rainier Climb reached the summit this morning. RMI Guide Alan Davis called in from the crater rim and reported clear skies and a beautiful day of climbing. The team will descend back to Paradise this afternoon.
Congratulations to the entire team! I’m so glad the weather cooperated and you had a beautiful day of climbing. Steve, we can’t wait to hear about the entire adventure when you get back!
-H, A & K
Posted by: Heidi on 8/5/2019 at 11:52 am
Congratulations to our teammate, Mark Pengelly, for making his Mt. Rainier summit this morning. This was Mark’s second summit bid this summer since our July 18th summit bid was cut short due to extreme weather. Mark is the first Tideworks Mountaineers to summit Mt. Rainier. We have Hugh Gallagher summiting tomorrow morning and Steve Albert summiting Aug. 23. This is an exciting summer for our team.
Congratulations to the entire team this morning!!!
Posted by: Tideworks Mountaineers on 8/5/2019 at 11:33 am
June 3, 2019
The RMI Denali May 8th Team led by RMI Guides Mike Walter, Alan Davis & Alex Halliday returned to Talkeetna yesterday. After lots of waiting at 14,000’ Camp on both the ascent and descent, the weather allowed the team to depart Kahiltna Basecamp. Once in Talkeetna the team sorted gear, arranged rooms, shuttle transportation and flight homes. The trip ended with a celebratory meal before spending their final night in Alaska. All team members should be making their way back to their respective homes. We would like to congratulate them on a safe and successful expedition.
Thanks for following along on their adventure.
June 2, 2019
Sunday, June 2, 2019 - 8:13 AM PT
We took advantage of a lull in the weather to pack up our kit and descend from 14,000’ to Basecamp. We encountered light snow, but generally pleasant travel conditions during our 8 hour descent.
Here at Kahiltna Basecamp it is a crowded scene, as no planes have been able to land here in a few days. Hopefully the weather breaks and we can fly to Talkeetna today. That’s it for now. There’s still a lot of work to do organizing gear to prepare for a flight.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
We’re all relieved, knowing that you’re off the mountain and safely onto base camp! So happy for the successful team members too!! Tell Dan Koster hello from his family and friends. We can’t wait to see him soon!
Posted by: Mark Koster on 6/2/2019 at 5:25 pm
So glad to hear you are all safely back at base camp and I hope the weather cooperates for you to fly out of there. Congratulations Jim and team on your successful summit - what an amazing accomplishment! Jim, we cant wait to hear more about it.
Posted by: Clare on 6/2/2019 at 8:48 am
May 31, 2019
Friday, May 31, 2019 2:49 PM PT
Nothing is easy about climbing Denali. Just ask any member of our team who worked hard for more than two weeks before standing on top of the highest point in North America 17 days after landing at Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. But that doesn’t even tell the whole story. Our team eagerly awaited the start of this expedition and spent three antsy days in Talkeetna waiting for good enough weather to fly into Basecamp as a storm sat over the Alaska Range. Now, after summitting, we have descended to the 14k camp and are comfortably nestled in to our old camp. We are socked in the clouds and it is snowing. This morning we spoke via radio with Robby Young, who is leading the 4th RMI Denali expedition. He reported heavy and wet snow on the Kahiltna Glacier between 7800’ and 9600’. The weather forecast is calling for heavy snow to continue through tomorrow, hopefully tapering on Sunday. No planes are flying and we are at the mercy of the weather once again. This time we are eagerly awaiting hot showers, cold beer, clean clothes, and a chance to talk with loved ones. Oh, and also flush toilets. Not necessarily in that order.
Mountain weather is fickle and right now we are at her mercy. We’ll take the good weather on summit day in exchange for playing the waiting game on both the front and tail ends of our expedition. And for now we’re practicing our Zen patience in the comfort of our 14k camp.
I’ve been following Tom M’s InReach and it looks to me like you’ve reached Kahiltna Glacier - Yahoo!! Welcome back. Congrats on completing the descent, hopefully the planes will be flying you off the glacier shortly. In the interim you’ll probably be digging up a cache of beer, perhaps a nice bottle of bourbon???
When you get back to Talkeetna enjoy: a cold beer or 2, a burger or 3, a looong hot shower, clean clothes, another cold beer, more burgers, perhaps a pizza, calls to loved ones -that’s my recommended order!
It’s after midnight here (and there) but since you’re all awake I’m going to join you in a long awaited celebratory drink. A toast to you all: TEAM WALTER 2019, CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR SUCCESSFUL EXPEDITION, YOU ROCK!!
Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 6/2/2019 at 12:28 am
Wow, I can’t even imagine what it’s like to reach the top of the world. Stay safe and warm. I’m in 91 degree weather, maybe send just a little of the cold this way.
Posted by: Peggy Robertson on 6/1/2019 at 9:44 am
May 30, 2019
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 8:03 PM PT
Today we had a more relaxing morning than the past few alpine starts. High camp was cold and breezy, and we enjoyed breakfast in the comfort of our sleeping bags. Blowing snow was evident on the upper mountain, reminding us how fortuitous we were to have a good weather window in which to summit.
We let the air warm up a bit and the winds abate and then we packed up camp and descended the West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall. We’re now down in the relative warmth and comfort of the 14,200’ camp. The air feels a lot thicker here now than when we left it a few days ago.
The plan is to get a good night’s sleep and continue our descent tomorrow. The weather forecast is calling for a front to move in tonight bringing snow into Sunday. So we’ll play it by ear with where/ when we descend, knowing that planes may not be able to fly into the Kahiltna airstrip until Sunday. We’re all content and getting good rest for our long descent down the Kahiltna.
On The Map
The air must be chewy at that low altitude. The accomplishment with full saftety has all our admirations. here at the San Rafael Rotary Club
Posted by: Paul Claeyssens on 5/31/2019 at 1:20 am
Hi Piet, feather in your cap!!
Stay safe on the way down.
Posted by: Frik Botha on 5/30/2019 at 10:14 pm
May 30, 2019
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:26 AM PT
The weather was beautiful this morning with no clouds above us and no sign of wind. We got the stoves cranking again at 4:30 in order to beat the crowds (today was the busiest summit day of the season so far, as there was a backup of climbers that were delayed by last week’s stormy weather. We estimate about 100 climbers went for the summit today.). We got rolling out of camp at 8:30 and walked into the frigid, shady slopes of the Audobon, which is a steep traverse for a thousand feet up to Denali Pass. We clipped about 40 snow pickets in a running belay to add security.
Around the corner from Denali Pass we stepped into the sun and began climbing south pass Zebra Rocks and the Arch Deacon’s Tower into the Football Field. The last hurdle before the summit ridge was climbing up the strenuous Pig Hill up to the Kahiltna Horn. Then the narrow, corniced ridge brought us to the summit at 20,310’.
The climb is always challenging, but it was made more so due to cold 15-25 headwinds for most of the climb. We needed to wear goggles and face protection to keep from freezing our skin.
But we did it. And we’re about to crawl into our sleeping bags at the 17,200’ high camp for some well deserved sleep. Tomorrow we will start our descent.
Congrats Pieter! I enjoyed hearing about your trip on our airplane ride to Anchorage and am excited to see that your climb was a success!
Posted by: Mike Miller on 5/31/2019 at 10:09 pm
Huge congrats, Pieter, and to the rest of your team!!! We are in total awe and couldn’t be happier for you! Can’t wait to hear all about it when you’re back. Sending love and best wishes. xo, Marla, Mer & Kira
Posted by: MARLA on 5/31/2019 at 11:38 am