Entries from North Cascades

After waiting all morning for the rain to stop and the clouds to lift we made our summit attempt. The clouds towered around us as we climbed up the glacier in the sun, getting a good look at Mt. Shuksan’s snow-covered summit pyramid. Mother Nature had other plans for us as we approached 7,600’ the clouds closed in around us creating white-out conditions and forcing us to follow our footsteps back to camp.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

We are back at our Mt. Shuksan camp after a successful day of training on the slopes near our camp. The clouds have settled back in around us and we are having a round of hot drinks to keep morale up before dinner.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

After morning gear checks, a commute to the trail head, and four and half hours of hiking we are settled into our camp at the toe of the Sulphide Glacier. The rain held off for most of the day, only spitting on us occasionally. Looking forward to a better forecast for tomorrow and a good day of training tomorrow.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

With a very unfavorable weather forecast ahead of us, we decided to stay inside on the 15th and have a skills session with knots, hitches, carabiners, and other climbing gear. The 16th brought a better chance of climbable weather so we set off from the Lake Ann Trailhead armed with lightweight daypacks. We were able to approach the climb and reach our goal of climbing to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. We experienced wet-to-very wet trail and rock conditions, and only got rained on for a few sections of our climb. We then reversed our route and made it back to the trailhead just before the heavy rain started falling. It was a solid 12-hour day of climbing and hiking and we were happy to be back in time to beat the rain. And also in time for a late pizza dinner!  The final push up the summit pyramid wasn’t in the cards with the hand we were dealt by the weather, but we were able to climb the bulk of the route and maximize the use of our time in the mountains.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan Team has spent the last week in the North Cascades with one day spent on Mt. Erie learning basic rock climbing. And the remainder of the week on Mt. Shuksan to complete alpine mountaineering skills training. These techniques include anchor placements, various self and team crevasse rescue techniques, steep technical ice climbing, belays, rappelling, knots, route finding and fixed rope travel. The team then attempted the summit of Mt. Shuksan, but were forced to turn at the base of the summit pyramid due to poor rainy weather. The team is breaking camp and will be hiking to the trail head this afternoon.

Congratulations to the Team on a great week of climbing!

We wanted some sunlight on the Easton glacier so route finding would be a little easier after several days of rain and no summits of Mt. Baker. By sunrise we had tried three different tracks through the broken up glacier, which all ended in absent snow bridges. Two of the guides went out to sniff out a 4th option that we could see from our break below 8,000’. The Team kept uphill for another 700’ before encountering warm snow and a snow bridge that didn’t look like it would last much longer let alone allow nine people to cross it. Being late in the morning and deteriorating visibility above us, we made the difficult decision to turn around and come back to camp. We enjoyed some great climbing and views of the surrounding peaks as we descended. At camp now after a good nap we are learning some skills and going to eat dinner. Tomorrow morning the team will pack up and descend to the trailhead. 

RMI Guide Mike King

The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier September 7 - 9 team made their summit attempt this morning but were turned back due to extremely wet conditions.  The team returned to their High Camp and was going to take a bit of time to dry out.  Later today they will continue their descent to the trailhead and conclude their program.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan today with beautiful weather. They climbed the Fisher Chimneys route and didn’t see any other climbers on the route.  They enjoyed having the mountain all to themselves.

Congratulation to the team!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and his team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys Route. With the forecasted weather, the team was able to summit a day early and is continuing with some training through the rest of their program.  They will descend from the mountain tomorrow.

Congratulations to all on their success- 100% to the top!

RMI Guide Alan Davis called in this morning from Mt. Baker. Last night he and his team made a sunset climb via the Easton Glacier.  The team reached 9,700’ before turning around.  They have left their camp and plan to be off the mountain in the next couple of hours.