×

Log In

Or

Register With Us

    • *required fields


      The password must meet the following criteria:

      • At least 8 characters
      • At least 1 lowercase letter
      • At least 1 uppercase letter
      • At least 1 number
      • At least 1 symbol (allowed symbols: !?@#$%^&/*()[]{}><,.+-=;)
    • Keep up to date with information about our latest climbs by joining our mailing list. Sign up and we'll keep you informed about new adventures, special offers, competitions, and news.

×
×

Check Availability

RMI Logo

Entries from Huascaran


Huascaran: Elias & Team Check in After Summit Day

Good evening from Moraine Camp! Yes, we reached the summit of Huascaran today. We stood on top of the most heavily glaciated peak between the tropics. What a day! This is an incredibly challenging mountain, and the terrain was no joke. But we knew what we were after, and the previous climbs of Yanapacha and Chopicalqui were the right acclimatizing/preparation stages. We left at midnight, and shortly after 8 am we were on top. Super steep terrain, massive crevasses and some seracs kept the guides on task non stop. But sure it was rewarding; the views from the top are this guide's new favorite! After an efficient and no less involved descent, upon arrival to high camp, it was obvious we had gas in the tank to continue to lose elevation. So we packed camp up, and with the invaluable help of our porters (the real heroes) we started down. Bypassing Camp 1 on the way, we continued to Moraine Camp in an arduous 19 hour day. We are still higher than our beloved Rainier, but sure this air will feel thick tonight. Now, time to turn to the stoves and cook some diner! Our team kicked butt today. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations on a successful summit!

Posted by: Holly on 7/22/2019 at 2:40 am


Huascaran: Elias & Team Reach Summit, Return to High Camp

Hello, this is the Huascaran team. We are back at High Camp after summitting the tallest peak outside of the Himalaya. We reached the summit at 8:30 AM local time. It's been a hard day, this mountain is no joke. We are at High Camp and will plan on heading down as far as we can today. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls from High Camp after summit bid.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations!! So cool!! I couldn’t be happier for all involved! 

Laura

Posted by: Laura Bryson on 7/21/2019 at 7:55 pm

WOWOWWWW! Great job and CONGRATS! What an accomplishment! So happy for you all and such great work!

Kim K

Posted by: Kim on 7/21/2019 at 4:38 pm


Huascaran: Elias & Team at High Camp

Good morning everyone. Guess what? We're at high camp! We traveled at night today to take advantage of the colder temps and to avoid the thawing ice that, when hit by the sun, might naturally shed some pieces. Climbing the "Canaleta" (gully) at night, with a heavy pack is no joke. We're talking steeper and harder terrain than the standard route on Denali, with no fixed lines and at Aconcagua height!!! Our team is kicking butt. We're now camped and settled in for the day, in hopes of good weather tonight to go for the 900 meters that separate us from the top of the Highest Glaciated Peak in the western Hemisphere. Follow along! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck!!! Way to go to get to high camp!

Wish I was there!

Kim K.

Posted by: Kim k on 7/20/2019 at 1:14 pm

WOO HOOO!  That’s incredible!  Thank you Elias!

Posted by: Laura Bryson on 7/20/2019 at 11:34 am


Huascaran: Elias & Team Move to Camp 1

Hello! Huascaran team checking from Camp 1. We left Moraine Camp this morning, and after an hour of steep climbing over the naked granite slabs that the receding ice is leaving uncovered, we ventured another 1,000ft of elevation up glacier. Seeking camp was tricky, as there's no flat areas, and there's not much snow either to make them at will; digging into the glacial ice at 17,200ft is no fun. We're cooking dinner now, and soon we will be horizontal, as we're planning on going up early to Camp 2. Stay tuned for more, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team

Elias & Team Reach Huascaran Base Camp

Buenas tardes from Refugio Huascarán. We are back on the move, and we left town again this morning fully psyched for our last objective. Huascarán was in view all day from the early morning drive to our 4-hour hike, and it never got any smaller! We are perched at 4,675m, on a beautiful rocky terrace next to the refugio on the edge of the glacial moraine. Our porters are currently helping out with dinner, and we're all hoping to go to bed pretty soon here. Stay tuned for more, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team

Huascaran: Elias & Team Enjoying Rest Days in Huaraz

Good evening from Huaraz. The team is spending a couple rest days in town after our acclimatization phase on Yannapacha and Chopicalqui. This phase was, on its own, a legit climbing objective with high and technical peaks where our team stepped it up and proved to be a very fit, mentally tough and a determined one. We sure are now acclimatized and ready for the highest peak on Earth located in between the tropics, Huascaran. Follow along for the second half of our expedition starting tomorrow. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Leave a Comment For the Team

Huascaran: Elias and Team Summit Chopicalqui!

Greetings from Chopicalqui High camp! What a day... This mountain is no joke: five 60-degree pitches at 20'000ft, no visibility for the upper half of the mountain on ascent, and no visibility on the entire descent! But we did it! We reached the summit of Chopicalqui! The team needed to put up a fight and they did. Everyone stood on top shortly after 8:00 AM on a seven hour uphill strenuous push. We rolled into our sleeping bags after an early dinner that our porters had ready upon arrival. Tomorrow we're looking forward to town and well earned rest. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So proud of you guys! Great job!

Posted by: Terry Wisler on 7/15/2019 at 2:07 pm

Yay! Congrats Kim and team!!!

Posted by: Ally on 7/15/2019 at 12:40 pm


Huascaran: Elias & Team Ready For Chopicalqui Summit Attempt

Hello from high camp on Chopicalqui! We're perched up here at 17,716' (5400m) after an early start this morning. The early start allowed us to arrive at high camp with enough time so we can give our bodies the rest they need before our summit push tonight. We're currently making dinner and we're shooting to be in bed way before sunset. The weather has changed a bit on us, but we how to have a good window for tonight. Keep your fingers crossed for an update from the summit! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck on an amazing summit!!!

Posted by: Ally on 7/14/2019 at 3:31 pm

I don’t recognize what country you’re all in.  But, best wishes to y’all for a safe summit and descent. Step safe!

Posted by: Susan Moore on 7/14/2019 at 12:51 pm


Huascaran: Elias & Team Move to Camp 1 on Chopicalqui

Good afternoon from Chopicalqui Camp 1. We waved goodbye to our cook and base camp infrastructure this morning, and with the help of our invaluable porters, we ventured uphill. Four hours of straight climbing brought us to 16,075'. Now we are perched on an incredible terrace with a view of what will be our route the next couple of days. Chopicalqui sure is a more intimidating peak but we're bringing our A game in anticipation of Huascaran. We're keeping our fingers crossed for good weather as we venture above the 20,000' mark here soon. Stay tuned for more! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kim!  Amazing climbing all you guys!  Wishing you still another 2 great and safe climbs. Enjoy the incredible, beautiful vistas. xxx Trish

Posted by: Trish on 7/13/2019 at 10:57 am

We are all so thrilled at the team’s success and incredible experiences that you are having!

Miss you Dave!

XO
Laura

Posted by: Laura Bryson on 7/12/2019 at 5:25 pm


Huascaran: Elias & Team Ready for Next Objective

Greetings from base camp! We have enjoyed our time off from climbing today, after our quick and uneventful descent (aside from the astonishing views) from Yanapacha high camp yesterday. We're ready to go for Chopicalqui now, and so, we have spent some time repacking for our move to Camp 1 tomorrow. Everyone's excited, doing well and ready for the next objective! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Sounds like everything is going great. Nice job! Love following the blog!
JT, did you get a hold of Brad?

Posted by: Ellen Smith Eaton on 7/11/2019 at 3:34 pm

Next Page
Filter By:

Sign up for Expedition Dispatches

check the Summit Registry try our Adventure Finder
Back to Top

Sign up for our Newsletter

    *required fields
    • Keep up to date with information about our latest climbs by joining our mailing list. Sign up and we'll keep you informed about new adventures, special offers, competitions, and news.
      privacy policy

Thank you for subscribing to the RMI Expeditions Newsletter!

While you're at it, you can sign up some of our other mailings as well:

Please choose the programs you'd like updates on: