Entries By jm gorum

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Unable to Summit

Posted by: Eric Frank, Bridget Belliveau, JM Gorum, Megan Budge | August 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,800'

RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning due to route conditions. The team climbed to 10,800’ before being forced to turn around. Despite being unable to summit, Eric and the team enjoyed and incredible meteor shower in the early hours of the morning.

The team is back at Camp Schurman and plans to spend the rest of the day doing crevasse rescue and ice climbing training around camp. Tomorrow the team will descend from Camp Schurman. We look forward to greeting them in Ashford tomorrow afternoon.


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team from 11K to the Talkeetna Motel

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Sunday July 12th 7:41 pm PT

The team woke at midnight to cloud and light snow at 11,000 ft.  We got up and rallied anyway, packing and eating a hot breakfast.  We set off into the murk at around 2:30 AM and snowshoed for several hours by Braille in the whiteout.  Finally we got a little visibility down at 8000 ft, the base of Ski Hill.  The glacier surface didn’t freeze up last night and so we had some nervous moments crossing soft and saggy crevasse bridges.  One of our team went neck-deep in a complicated hole just below Mt. Francis - one of the very last crevasses we had to deal with, actually.  We plucked him from the ice, but not without a fair bit of grunting and cursing and straining at the ropes.  Then it was a simple but strenuous uphill climb to the old site of basecamp (there is nothing there now -which is normal in late season). Quite literally, we’d just put our packs down, at around 11:40 AM, when two beautiful K2 Aviation ski otters landed and took us to Talkeetna.  The afternoon was a busy one, drying and sorting everything around the K2 hangar and connecting to the world again.  We’ll have a victory dinner tonight at the West Rib, perhaps with a toast or two thrown in. And then we look forward to a comfortable night’s sleep at the Talkeetna Motel.  Tomorrow we’ll leave each other and be out on our own for the first time in three weeks. 

Thanks very much for keeping track of our climb.

Until Next Time,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The June 23, 2015, Mount McKinley team on the summit! Photo: Dave Hahn

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Gary/Team Hahn:  Congratulations on a safe and exciting trip.  Finish strong.  Enjoy the moments of satisfaction that mother nature has provided and allowed.

We’ll look forward to hearing all about… read more

Posted by: Chip Sniffin on 7/13/2015 at 5:11 am

Thanks Dave Hahn and your co-guides for excellent job!!! I am so happy your expedition is safe now and saying goodbye&luck; to each other :-)

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Posted by: Wienio on 7/13/2015 at 1:07 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Continue Their Descent

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 11, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'

July 11, 2015 7:58 pm PST

All enjoyed the “low” altitude sleep at 11,000 ft last night.  Such a relief from the past few days at higher and colder locales.  As was always the plan, we chose to stay in place today in order to get on a night-time schedule for exiting the lower Kahiltna Glacier.  It was a fine day for resting, even as the weather seemed to deteriorate around us.  Our hope was that clear skies and a cool night would make travel safer (from a crevasse standpoint) and easier.  That might not happen tonight as there is still plenty of cloud, but we’ll get up at midnight and head for our pickup point anyway.  As usual, we’ll need good luck and good weather to get down and off the mountain.

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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CONGRATULATIONS!  Thanks to Dave Hahn and his assistants for the successful climb to the summit.  Job well done by all.  We deeply enjoyed the daily reports, Dave.  Thank you.  Gary, … read more

Posted by: Dad & Mom ROSS on 7/13/2015 at 12:24 pm

Gary/Team Hahn:  Absolute CONGRATULATIONS.  Enjoy the moments of VICTORY!!!!!!!

All the best for now,

Chip

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Posted by: chip snffin on 7/12/2015 at 4:59 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Begin Their Descent

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 11, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Saturday, July 11, 2015 - 2:50 am PT

What a difference 24 hours makes. Yet again, we all worked late, yet again it is 1:30 AM. But we’ve got plenty to show for our labor. We began the day at 17,000 ft, blessed again with perfect weather. We are ending the day down at 11,000 ft in the clouds. It was tough work and we had plenty of dangerous steps to get just right, but we negotiated each of them safely. There was the airy walk along the crest of the West Buttress, the steep and strenuous fixed ropes, the awkward side hill of Windy Corner, the new snow to plod through on the Polo Field and Squirrel Hill and a few well disguised crevasses to sidestep on Motorcycle Hill. Done. Almost. Now for some rest and a cruise out the lower glacier.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI climbers standing on top of Motorcycle Hill on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Summit!

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 10, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Friday, July 10, 2015 - 2:14 am PT

Hey, This is Dave Hahn calling from 17,000 feet on Mt. McKinley. It’s about 10 minutes after 1 in the morning. We had a big day yesterday, on the 9th of July. We summitted Mount McKinley! It was a beautiful day, start to finish, nice and calm and sunny, clouds down below. It was perfect climbing conditions, but it was hard climbing conditions, we had to break trail. We shared that work with a few of the other guided teams that were up here. That made all the difference; breaking trail through new snow and being able to trade off that job. But it still took a long time, I think we were out for 14 hours today. We were on the the top at 6:45 until 7:15. It was beautiful up there, really wonderful day, and all of our team made it. I believe that means that RMI is 100% for this season; all of the RMI summit teams have made it. That’s just about it for the Denali season, the groups that we were going to the top with today were some of the last. I think there’s maybe one more team that is a day from being in position. So far so good for us, we’re up at 17k for now and we’ll head off the West Buttress tomorrow. But, it really turned around, turned nice for us in these last couple days and we’re very appreciative.

An RMI team ascending the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls from 17 Camp after reaching the summit of Mt. McKinley.

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Hooray for everyone on Team Hahn.  Impressive on any day, but especially digging new trail.  What an accomplishment.  Peter you rock!

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Posted by: Laura Taft Paulsen on 7/11/2015 at 1:39 pm

CONGRATULATIONS to Gary and Team Hahn!  Very glad your summit day was so beautiful. Can’t wait to heat the stories Gary.  Hope your trek back is beautiful too. - Rob

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Posted by: Rob Reynolds on 7/11/2015 at 8:47 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Move up to 17 Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 09, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Wednesday, July 8, 2015 - 10:51 pm PT

No forecast could have predicted a day as nice as the one we just had, and certainly none did. They were calling for more snow, and perhaps it was snowing below the immense blanket of clouds that we looked down on all day. But right from our 6 am start at 14,200’ Camp, it was nothing but calm, blue sky and sunshine - where we were and up above where we wanted to be. We got climbing just after 9 am and made excellent progress, reaching our previous high point in a little over three hours. We then worked up the crest of the West Buttress, climbing steep snow with a hand on perfect granite from time to time. There was plenty to concentrate on to ensure safe climbing, but there were also moments devoted to pure pleasure, gazing down at ridiculously steep drop offs and at the gigantic faces of neighboring mountains. We rolled into 17,200’ Camp after about six hours and fifteen minutes on the route. This gave us plenty of time in the strong afternoon sunshine to build a strong camp and eat a good dinner. We are all ready to go climbing to the top tomorrow if the great weather continues.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Congratulations!  You did it.  We’re mighty proud of you and the team.  Thanks to the team guides.  Job well done, by all.  We are at Bill’s home using his computer. … read more

Posted by: Dad & Mom Ross on 7/10/2015 at 7:20 pm

I hope everything went well and you made summit. Congratulation!!!! To all of you!!!
Keep safe and come back home

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Posted by: Iza Smolokowska on 7/10/2015 at 5:35 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Practicing Patience

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 08, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, July 7, 2015 - 10:56 pm PT

Not surprisingly, this morning wasn’t quite right for moving higher. It was socked in, snowing and a little blustery through the night. By morning, the blustery part was finished at 14 Camp, but we could hear the big winds still raking the crest of the West Buttress, a few thousand feet overhead. The team met for pancakes in the POSH and then dispersed to do camp chores and more wall building. In the afternoon, as the storm seemed to be losing a little energy, RMI Guides Steve Gately and JM Gorum raced up to 16,200’ to fetch back some of our cached food. With the extended forecast being a little sloppy, we want more supplies at 14,000’ just in case avalanche conditions should develop between here and the cache site. They were up and down again in less than two hours. As we ate dinner, the upper mountain weather continued to improve. By bedtime, there was plenty of optimism that despite the forecasts, we’d get the break we need for moving to high camp.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Climbers building walls at 14 Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Dave Hahn

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Every extra day waiting for safe conditions to ascend is another day to spend soaking up the wisdom of Master Hahn.  And pretty soon you’ll all be snow masons with… read more

Posted by: Charlie Thomas on 7/8/2015 at 6:40 pm

we anxiously await the climax to the summit but happy to hear of the precautions taken by the team leaders…thinking about you Pat!

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Posted by: mom and dad grengs on 7/8/2015 at 11:36 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn’s Team Ventures Out to the Edge of the World

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 07, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Monday July 6th 11:23 pm PT

Our rest day at 14,200 ft was jam packed with naps and meals in the POSH tent.  It wouldn’t have been a great day for moving higher anyway since we watched a storm take over the upper mountain.  Steve Gately led the team out to the “Edge of the World” before the clouds came around and each climber got the thrill of looking down thousands of feet to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  In the late afternoon, we all put in a work session to improve the snow walls protecting our tents.  By dinner, the storm had arrived at 14K Camp and snow and wind took over outside.  We’d love to move up tomorrow so we’ll hope this weather moves on through. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Peter Thomas - your Simpson Thacher DC team is cheering you on!  Way to go!

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Posted by: Ally Meringoff on 7/7/2015 at 9:09 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies at 16,200’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 06, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday July 5th 10:26 pm PT

We started walking uphill at 10 this morning.  There was a mean-looking cloudcap on Denali when we first looked up, but things mellowed as we ate breakfast and geared up.  We made excellent time, climbing up the fixed line section to 16,200 ft on the West Buttress, and in the process, we shattered altitude records for Gary, Peter and Pat.  It took a few minutes to cache food in a raven-proof snow hole up there and then we cruised down with light packs.  It turned out to be a sunny and warm day down at 14K Camp and we were happy to rack out for a few hours in warm tents before dinner.  We’ve earned a rest and acclimatization day tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: John Race

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Peter, your a monster!

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Posted by: Jordan Friedson on 7/7/2015 at 6:40 am

Super news!  Congrats Peter for crushing previous heights, and for bravely climbing to new ones.  We are all pulling for you down here at sea level with kayaks and paddle… read more

Posted by: Laura Taft Paulsen on 7/7/2015 at 6:30 am


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Backcarry Gear to 14K Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | July 05, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday July 4th 11:00 pm PT

Our first morning at 14K camp was calm and easy.  We slept in until the sun peaked over Denali’s West Rib at 9:15 AM.  We had a leisurely breakfast in our new POSH dining tent (stolen from Billy Nugent’s RMI Team) and then we geared up for retrieving our cached food, fuel and equipment from 13,500 ft.  That just took us about two hours, round trip, and then the team took it easy for the afternoon.  Billy Nugent’s team made the top yesterday and we were happy to share camp with them for a couple of hours as they passed through on their descent to 11,000 ft.  After dinner, we had a short refresher training session on climbing fixed ropes as of course that is our next goal, to climb the fixed ropes to 16,200 ft.  As usual, we’ll need to see what the weather does… it started snowing again this afternoon. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Gary Ross/Team Hahn:  USA Women win the World Cup 5-2….now its time for Team Hahn to go on strong and scale Denali in championship fashion!!!!!!!

Keep Charging…Score the big… read more

Posted by: Chip Sniffin on 7/5/2015 at 5:15 pm


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