Entries By nick scott
July 21, 2018
Saturday, July 20, 2018 - 1:50PM PT
RMI Guide Zeb Blais checked in from the Fisher Chimney’s route of Mt. Shuksan today. The team had just made it back to high camp after a summit day with 100% success! They reported beautiful conditions and good climbing. They will spend tonight at high camp and descend back to the trail-head tomorrow.
July 21, 2018
Friday, July 20, 2018
We made it to High Camp on Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys route and the crew is feeling great. There is more snow up here than I’ve ever seen!
We’ve settled in and are going to have dinner and get to bed as early as we can.
We’ll check in again after our climb.
RMI Guide Zeb Blais and team
July 19, 2018
At the end of this past April, eleven RMI guides came together in Washington to take the AMGA Alpine Skills Course, a prerequisite for the Alpine Guide Course, and a great continuing education opportunity for all of us to remain at the forefront of current guiding techniques. After a winter of far-flung adventures, Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, and myself converged on Ashford. These courses are an important chance for us to refresh our skillset and learn some new tricks from our peers and the instructors from the AMGA.
Over the course of 5 days at Paradise in Mt. Rainier National Park, and on Mt. Erie, outside Anacortes, WA, we reviewed snow anchor construction and multi-pitch techniques for snowy environments, belaying and lowering techniques, short roping and short pitching, and anchor station management. Success in our guiding often lies in not only being able to utilize a number of techniques to manage risk, but in being able to maintain efficiency and timeliness at the same time. As we worked through different transitions, techniques, and scenarios with our peers, we all walked away with a few new tools in our bag and I’m convinced will be better guides for it.
This was a fantastic event for the eleven of us, and many thanks go out to RMI and the AMGA for putting it on. Congrats to Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, and Alan Davis for completing the course!
June 21, 2018
June 20, 2018
Wednesday, June 20, 2018 - 3:09 AM PT
Today we woke to more winter with the wind blowing in our faces as we crawled from our tents. We did an Alaska leisure start. This is when you wake up and wish the weather was better but… will pack slowly. So we crept through the white, snow blowing all around us, and trail blazed through the deep snow. After many hours we arrived in Base Camp in dashing style. The evening was caped with more quesadillas than we could eat and a celebratory beverage. As we nestle in our sleeping bags for what we hope is the last night, we dream of burgers and beverages on the other side….. it’s snowing now, of course. Don’t fret we have had a blast on this adventure though we are bitter with the weather. We will out chill Denali. You can count on it.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott
On The Map
Marc - super glad you are headed back to record setting heat here in sunny Las Vegas!! We are all looking forward to hearing your stories, seeing your pics, and having you back!!! Safe travels!! Denette
Posted by: Denette on 6/21/2018 at 11:00 am
Best news I’ve heard in days - Base Camp! May the rest of journey home be an easy one! You are all rock stars in my book for battling the elements and coming out on top! Well done! Coeli. P.S. Nick, you know who your second phone call better be to?! I’ll let Sabina have your first. :)
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/21/2018 at 8:40 am
June 19, 2018
Monday, June 18, 2018 - 9:50 PM PT
Hi all -
We spent a very blustery and snowy day at 11,000 ft Camp. We had wind gusts in the upper forty’s and nearly two feet of snow on top of the more than three feet we walked through yesterday. The team spent most of the day hiding from Denali’s cold breath of winter. We’re hanging in there and crossing our fingers for a break to go to the airstrip.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team
Praying for safe passage for the team ❤️
Elisa, Dayton and Elliotte.
We miss you Nicholas!
Posted by: Elisa on 6/19/2018 at 6:26 pm
Lei and the team,
Sorry that you did not go all the way due to mood swings of the Mother Nature. But don’t for one second think that you failed. You all spent months even years training and preparing for this adventure. You survived weeks of snowy, icy, windy wilderness, which only a few can endure. You went to “ the edge of the world” and back. You are all stronger both physically and mentally. You have achieved a lot. Be proud of yourself and safe trip home!
Posted by: Hao on 6/19/2018 at 6:15 pm
June 18, 2018
Monday, June 18, 2018 - 2:15 AM PT
To all of our fans out there, we know you’ve enjoyed our stories, raps and poems for our blog to fulfill our energy during our long stay at 14,000’ Camp on Denali. This evening however, was the beginning of our retreat down the mountain and eventually back to the airstrip as the weather allows. Today, we had a lull in the never ending storm and the team seized the opportunity to make the descent back to 11,000’ Camp. This “lull” certainly wasn’t an easy escape but the conditions were the best we’ve had in days and better than what’s forecast for the next week. We quickly broke down camp and were walking just before 8pm. Walking into the white and knee deep post holing kept the pace down but the team was managing it well. Squirrel Hill was wind scoured and Motorcycle Hill into 11,000’ Camp provided some more deep post holing. Thankfully, the wind was calm at camp and with some help from some other guides we know, that have also been stuck in this storm, we managed to set up tents quickly and crawled into our sleeping bags by midnight. Way to go team! The next few days still call for some snowy and windy weather so we might not move too quickly but we’ll take every window of opportunity!
Happy Father’s Day!
Sory about the bad weather gollub. Rained in CT for 2 days strait so I kno how u feel.
Posted by: Mikey b on 6/19/2018 at 9:14 am
Really sorry about those PB cups. They will taste even sweeter when you return…
Glad to hear you all are breathing thicker air and moving strong in the storm. Thanks for letting us stay part of this journey. You are all an inspiration and I am proud that my kids get to hear these stories of their adventurous uncle.
Thinking of you Dave and team on the decent.
Posted by: Beth on 6/19/2018 at 8:40 am
June 16, 2018
Saturday, June 16, 2018 - 6:02 PM PT
Strolling up Denali taking a hike
Day 18 brings a cyclone I don’t like
Boys in the posh shoveling that snow
Waiting for the weather window so we can up and go.
You got DK white chocolate
Dropping a sick beat waiting
Patiently for his peanut butter treat
Who needs any meat
At 17,000 feet.
All I want are my peanut butter
Peanut butter cups.
Your dark ridges so heavenly on my lips,
Forever on my hips,
Your sweet and salty, hardly ever
When these mountain days look all
All you need are those glorious
Peanut butt-er cuuups,
To keep on the up and ups.
To be continued…
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
On The Map
Matt Hill, Bubbles is wondering if you have seen any shopping carts on Denali. Dwight Schrute says Hi also.
Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/18/2018 at 6:32 am
Thinking of you and the team, constantly, Nicholas!
I know the weather is playing games, but the skills with the song/poem writing are really winning!
Love you so much! We’re so proud of you - always. Always.
Elisa and the Girlies
Posted by: Elisa on 6/17/2018 at 3:26 pm
June 15, 2018
Friday, June 15, 2018 - 6:34 PM PT
A poem written by the team:
Today we had a foot race,
We all died trying to keep pace,
Another weather day spent playing spades
Up at 14 foiled by these Pineapple Express charades
The snow is getting deep and the wind getting strong
We’re standing in the posh but not for very long.
My feet are so cold from standing on the ice,
Don’t fret for we’ll be crushing more rice.
These foreseeable high winds are full,
While our gastrointestinals are quite dull.
Even still Spirits were high
until news of a pig came before the nigh.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
On The Map
Great poem! Unfortunately, it sounds like you have more than enough time to perfect your prose…
A little snow shoveling doesn’t sound bad about now as it’s a typical hot (98 degrees) and muggy day in good ole’ STL! Loving all the pictures, but a few up close of all those faces we miss, would be even better! :)). Here’s to clearing weather and a successful trip to the Summit! XO Coeli (Nick’s Mom)
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 6/16/2018 at 7:18 pm
Also, good luck to everyone else on the team! I hope you all are able to summit without complications and even if there are some, I hope you can overcome them. Fighting!
Posted by: Sarah Wu on 6/15/2018 at 9:54 pm
June 14, 2018
Thursday, June 14th - 4:36 pm PT
We aren’t getting restless yet! We had a beautiful but gusty morning at camp that allowed us to improve our storm walls and batten down the hatches. The summit has been displaying quite the cap over it with long tails indicating the strong winds up high on top of the frigid temperatures. The forecast has finally confirmed that beginning tomorrow and through the weekend will bring heavy snow. We are going to catch the tail of a tropical surge coming off the Pacific, some words to describe it have been a cyclone or Pineapple Express. We will keep you updated on the snowfall amounts! Yesterday, we had a greeting party to welcome Mike King’s team at 14 Camp. We are glad to have some additional company as we wait out this storm. Thanks for the blog comments from our family and friends, keep them coming!
I should read my voice recognition typo’s before I send. That first line was supposed to have read:
YOU ARE ALL SO AMAZING!!!
Posted by: Liuise (again) on 6/15/2018 at 7:29 pm
You are also amazing!!
It seemed that everything was going so smoothly at first but it is these days of enduring this storm that will probably the story that gets told a lot. Too bad you can’t package the cold and bring it back with you to Las Vegas, huh Marc! We’re cheering you on from down here in the Rockies!
Posted by: Louise on 6/15/2018 at 7:26 pm