Entries By nick scott
After two very long and tiring days, walking more than 20 miles and descending more than 14,000ft, we are finally back in civilization! Shower, clean beds, real food…oh my! We are all feeling like human beings again after a wonderful shower and a celebratory dinner out. It’s good to back in comfortable surroundings after such a trying trip, but at the same time sad that the adventure is coming to an end. Climbers are planning wine tours and sight seeing adventures during the 1 or 2 days they have left in the country. Hopefully, they return to you all, reading at home, rested and ready to retell all their stories and show you all the photos! It was one hell of a trip!
Thanks for following along everyone.
Cheers!
January 24, 2022
Posted by: Nick Scott, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 22,841'
Today was the day! We woke up early to clear skies and absent winds. A first in over a week! We walked out of camp 2 at 2:30 hoping to get ahead of the numerous climbers that had stacked up waiting for the same weather window. Unfortunately, we weren’t early enough to beat all the other climbers out the door and ran into a fair amount of traffic. However, the extra traffic couldn’t spoil the perfect weather or the stoke emanating from the climbers, all of whom had been chomping at the bit for a chance to climb all week. The route felt extra steep this year, but the climbing was aided by good quality snow for much of the upper route leading to the summit. After nine hours of climbing and dodging other climbers, five out of seven of us stood on the summit of Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside of the Himalaya. It was a perfect summer day with almost no wind and clear skies for epic views all around. After enjoying our hard won success for just a few minutes, believe it or not it can be hard to breathe at 22,841 feet, we turned downhill and continued walking downhill all the way into basecamp around 7:15pm. An absolute epic of a day for those that managed to climb to the top. Despite the sore muscles and blistered toes, the crew was smiles all around the dinner table sharing stories from the day. Tomorrow we walk out to the trailhead and make our way back to Mendoza for a much needed shower and a good night sleep in a proper bed.
Congrats to all those who summited! And good luck on your next adventure!
January 23, 2022
Posted by: Nick Scott, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,500'
The itinerary of this Aconcagua climb has been anything but ordinary. The weather saw to that ever since we first tried to move to Camp 1 and promptly had to do an about-face back to Basecamp. Since that day, the guides have had to stay on their toes, rearranging, pivoting, and scraping together a plan that would give us the best shot for the summit. Well, this group's ability to adapt to the changing circumstances on a moments notice may just payoff. Today was originally our day to summit, but the wind had other ideas. So now we are once again resting, eating, and acclimatizing at Camp 2. However, this means that tonight is our night. The last night in fact! The wind and temperatures look ideal for a successful summit attempt. But don’t get excited for us just yet, having had to push the summit day back as far as possible to improve our chances with the weather means tomorrow will be a monster of a day. We will launch our summit attempt from Camp 2 instead of high camp, a move not possible with any other group I’ve climbed this mountain with. If we are successful and make it to the top, we then must head back down to Camp 2, pick up the gear the porters didn’t carry down and continue downhill all the way back to Basecamp! A summit to Basecamp in a day itinerary is no small feat, but having seen how well prepared these climbers are, I firmly believe they can pull it of in good style. Everyone one of them trained hard and came prepared for a difficult climb. Tomorrow will be extremely hard, but if we can pull it off, it will make one hell of a story! Wish us luck!
Steve and team nothing but the most positive vibes and thoughts for tomorrow! Know how much you trained for this and your team too!! Go Go.
Posted by: Paul and Susan Cambon on 1/23/2022 at 5:36 pm
Today we rested once again. Our plan had been to move to high camp today, but once again our plans were changed due to the longest stretch of windy weather seen on this mountain in the month of January. Fortunately, the winds are forecasted to drop significantly over the next few days which is lucky for us since we only have the next two days to pull off a summit. Everyone is doing well and adjusting to the altitude perfectly. By the time we pull the trigger on a summit attempt I expect we will be so well acclimatized that we will all sprint to the top of this mountain. All of you at home send us some good vibes and cross your fingers that the winds give the window we need to stand on the top of South America!
Steve and All,
Hope those winds have blown themselves out by now. All the best for submitting!
Posted by: Karen & Rob on 1/23/2022 at 9:38 am
Sending good vibes and all fingers and toes crossed that the winds and weather give you the break you all need and deserve to reach the summit!! Here’s to standing on the top of South America!! XO
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 1/23/2022 at 6:14 am
January 21, 2022
Posted by: Nick Scott, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,500'
Another rest day for the Aconcagua summit hopefuls. Unlike other more snow covered mountains, there is a lot of down time on Aconcagua. Some love the rest, others tend to go stir crazy with cabin fever. At least today the sun is shining and the wind is light allowing for ample time to breath deep and enjoy the views outside of our tents. The weather trend still looks favourable for a Sunday summit attempt. Hopefully the wind holds long enough for us to tag the top.
Congrats on making it to camp 2! Sounded like a grueling climb. Hoping tomorrow brings good weather for your summit.
Way to Steve and gang
Susan
Posted by: Susan Dietz on 1/22/2022 at 3:28 pm
Enjoying all the updates, keep up the good work and hope the weather is in your favor for the rest of the trip!
Posted by: Anne Morehead on 1/21/2022 at 5:53 pm
January 20, 2022
Posted by: Nick Scott, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,500'
Today was the day! The day we would move from Basecamp straight to Camp 2, or Nido de Condores as it is officially called here. Unfortunately, the wind still did not want to cooperate and the mountain was still going to make us work for every foot of elevation gain. We walked up hill through snow, sleet, grapple, and wind gusts that made us wobble. When the wind came, we put our heads down and persevered making great time to our gear cache at Camp 1. After adding some “training weight” to our packs we turned towards Camp 2, walking into more and more wind and snow. Aconcagua really didn’t want this trip to be an easy one, not that any of them are ever easy. After 5 1/2 hours and 4000 feet of elevation gain we strolled into camp feeling accomplished, but tired and of course very hungry. By the time we put up our tents the wind was giving us a break, but the snow how now doubled its efforts and dropping 6-7 inches of fluffy powder on us in a couple hours. We were all happy to be warm and cozy in our tents watching the snow fall and waiting for dinner to help warm our bellies. Once again, everyone on this team absolutely styled an incredibly difficult day. Arriving in camp smiling and feeling well despite the thin air here at 18,500 feet. Tomorrow is a rest day and hopefully a sunny one at that!
We woke to another windy day here at basecamp. After reinforcing our tent anchors, we had a delicious breakfast. The meal was leisurely and delicious, and everyone was in high spirits. We took a walk mid day to stretch our legs and get an incredible view of the mountain. The rest of the day was spent resting and sorting gear. Tomorrow the weather is supposed to become more favorable, and we plan on moving to Camp 2 in order to best position ourselves for the summit.
RMI Guide Nick Scott & Team
January 18, 2022
Today we rested at basecamp, avoiding the high winds as much as possible. The team read books, watched some movies, and ate lots of snacks. We are waiting for a break in the winds to try and make a final move up the mountain.
RMI Guide James Bealer
Admire your perseverance! Keep on truckin guys.
Posted by: Tom Dietz on 1/20/2022 at 5:24 am
Sending prayers for my brother Rahim and the rest of the team. Love you ghada kahi ka.
Posted by: Sheri Kindred on 1/19/2022 at 11:49 am
Monday, January 17, 2022
What a crazy 36 hours! We arrived at Aconcagua Camp 1 excited for the true expedition to begin, but little did we know, the mountain had other plans. We crawled in our tents after dinner with moderate winds slapping the tent walls, but what began as moderate mountain winds soon grew into freight train roars. Gust after gust battered the tents as we scrambled to secure more guy lines and add more rocks to the anchors. What started as 40 mph gusts soon grew to 80 mph and greater! It felt as if the mountain was unhappy with our presence on its flanks. The wind was relentless all night, making the guide's job tireless as we constantly left the safety of our tent to check on the security of the others. No one slept a wink as we all constantly felt the need brace the walls of our tent as the roar of the train built high in the mountain and finally crashed angrily into our camp. As the sun rose, the wind flowed unabated but with less severity as it had throughout the night. With the light increasing we were able to survey the damage. One out of the three tents didn’t survive, but all climbers woke unscathed, albeit a little sleep deprived. Despite their experience, it was the guides whose tent was left broken and battered and who had to seek shelter in the emergency dome tent set up by our logistics company for just such an occasion. With the sun rising, the group sipped coffee with 1,000-yard stares until the caffeine kicked in and we were able to process what just happened. With a broken tent and the forecast changing for the worst, the mountain forced our hand. The guides made the tactical decision to retreat back to basecamp to regroup and pick up our spare tent we had left behind. However, this does not mean the adventure is over. We plan to rest where the air is thicker, wait out the bad weather, and continue on up the mountain in two days. Everyone is tired, but in good spirits after such a trying night on Aconcagua. Wind is what this mountain is famous for and it delivered in spades. Two nights of good sleep in basecamp will have us rested and ready to give it another go. Let’s just hope the mountain decides to let us pass.
Wow! So happy everyone is safe and sound! Will be praying for better weather and mild winds for the rest of your trip!!
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 1/19/2022 at 12:24 pm
Since this is Wednesday, I’m hoping that Steve and team are back on track and making that mountain their B*tch! Stay safe. Love, Susan
Posted by: Susan Dietz on 1/19/2022 at 4:49 am
January 16, 2022
Posted by: Nick Scott, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,500'
Sunday, January 16, 2021 - 11:18 AM PST
The team moved up to Camp 1 at Plaza Canada today, situated at 16,500 feet. Our packs were noticeably lighter after carrying most of our gear up to camp a few days ago. We quickly got settled in and shored our tents against the upcoming wind. Everyone is happy to be above basecamp and starting our push towards the summit.
RMI Guide Nick Scott & Team
Be safe! It’s so much fun to see your progress!
Posted by: Kendall Snow on 1/17/2022 at 5:53 pm
Hope those high winds settle for you! Stay safe!
Posted by: Jill Snow on 1/17/2022 at 2:39 pm
Congratulations to all!! What great stories you will have to tell about this grand adventure!
Posted by: Coeli Scott on 1/25/2022 at 4:42 am
How absolutely AWESOME - way to go team! It has been fun to follow your adventures and glad many of you finally made the summit! Way to go Jake!!!
Posted by: carron on 1/24/2022 at 8:36 pm
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