Entries By jack delaney

Monday, June 1st - 12:45AM PST

Hello blog readers! We awoke this morning to the sun blessing our tents. It took sometime to get our momentum rolling but soon we were headed downhill. The sweet thick air below us was calling our names! We descended the 16k ridge in stellar weather with almost the entire thing to ourselves. Then back down the fixed lines for the final time. Next thing you know we were back at 14k camp! We were greeted with great hospitality from the RMI team lead by Seth Burns. After an hour of so of R&R and repacking, we continued on our journey downward. After 6,000 feet of descent, we were back at our nemesis - 11 Camp  but this time on better terms. This time it’ll only be a short layover with a few hours of sleep before we finish our descent to the Kahiltna International Airport where we hope to catch a ride on a Turbo Otter to Talkeetna!

Cheers,
Jack and the Team
(fingers crossed for flyable weather!)

On Saturday, May 30th at 8pm, Delaney and team were on the summit of Mt. McKinley!

More info coming soon! 

5/29 - Today we were able to stretch our legs and enjoy the views of 17k camp. The team used the day to pack and organize and prepare mentally for what will likely be the hardest day of their lives. This rest day was well deserved. Tomorrow we make our attempt at the summit of North America, Denali!

RMI Guide Jack Delaney & Team

Friday May 29, 2026 12:58am PDT

We have ascended to 17 Camp. It is cold and windy but we are all tucked in safe and sound for the night.

RMI Guide Jack Delaney & Team

Wednesday, May 27, 2026 - 10:59 pm PT

Over the last few days the stars have slowing been aligning for us to take a crack at going all the way to the top of Denali. So today was our final rest day. We made the most out of it with an extended pancake-athon for breakfast. Afterwards the team went about organizing for our move to high camp, followed by practicing for the many running belays we are soon to encounter on our climb and finally snacking and napping. The night was finished off with a pizza party that culminated in the devouring of a delicious cheesecake. I know this sounds surreal but sometimes life is magical at 14,000 feet. Early to bed, early to rise - tomorrow we begin our bid for summit, starting with the climb to high camp at 17,000 feet!

Cheers,

RMI Guide Jack Delaney and the Team

Tuesday, May 26, 2026 - 11:22 pm PT

Yesterday evening listening to our nightly broadcast weather report via FRS Radio brought to you by the KIA (Kahiltna International Airport) Base Camp manager was a grim affair. It was calling for cold temps, high winds and lots of snow at the 14k elevation band and above. Thus it felt like a minor miracle when we awoke to clear and calm skies! The team was fully prepared to add another storm day notch on their belts but was equally happy to pivot to a more active day!

After a snappy breakfast of granola, dried blueberries and powered milk we geared up to head to the top of the fixed lines! This day trip would consist of gaining 2,000 feet of elevation over a relatively short distance with a little over 500 of those feet on the legendary Denali fixed lines. After the team scooted up the snow booter, we were looking straight up the fixed lines. Hard blue ice underfoot required strong and purposeful crampon work. The thin air of 16,000 feet required deep breathing. Yet our slow caterpillar of ascending mountaineers finally topped out the pale blue ropes of the fixed lines!

We were greeted with panoramic views of the Alaska Range. Our time was limited as the temperatures were cold and the wind was biting. The descent was a fully engaging endeavor down the firm ice but the team did it with style and grace. A relatively short descent down the remaining snow slope brought us home sweet home for a dinner of ramen and an early bedtime. Tomorrow we continue to acclimate and rest so that we are in ideal condition 

should we get a chance to climb to high camp and the summit!

Cheers,

RMI Guide Jack Delaney and the Team!

Monday, May 25th 11pm PST

Hey ya'll, it’s Haley!
Coming to ya from 14 camp. It feels like we are in a Katy Perry song because the overwhelming description is “it’s hot then it’s cold.” We have experienced very chilly nights followed by sweaty tent afternoons but we take it all in stride. Something I love about Denali is that it’s anti-alpine start. We woke up around 9:30 to stunning views of Mt Foraker and clear skies all around. Our first order of business is to fill our empty water bottles from the night which includes applauding those who kept them warm in their sleeping bags and publicly chastising those who let them freeze. It’s called efficiency bullying up here! After a lovely breakfast of egg hash, we tromp off to get some much needed fixed line and picket clipping practice. The result is a cacophony of yelling “ANCHOR!” & “CLIMBING!” while each of us is managing the war between our mega mitts, the rope, and a wiregate carabiner. All in all, it bolstered our confidence to take on the challenges that come ahead if we get our summit window. We were hoping to spend an afternoon of clear skies touring other parts of the famous 14 camp such as the Edge of the World Overlook and the Poop Cravasse! But just like the guy at the bar you don’t want to talk to, the clouds sauntered over and blocked our views of all things good. So instead, we traded snacks from our recently recovered cache and relaxed. With three solid days of acclimating at 14 camp, all that’s left is for the mountain to decide if it will let us go up. So fingers crossed for a weather window in our future! Too blessed to be stressed,

RMI Climber Haley

Love you Kevin!! Thanks to everyone sending encouraging notes and support our way!
 

5/24 - We had an active rest day as our bodies slowly adjusted to the new altitude. The active part was heading down to the cache garden to recover all the gear we had left earlier in the week. The rest part was spending the afternoon in the sun fueled warmth of our tents. Books read, snacks eaten and naps had. The team is slowly getting stronger as we adapt to this new height. Tomorrow brings more rest and training so we can be ready to strike should the weather provide the opportunity to set forth for the summit.

Cheers,

RMI Guide Jack and the Team

Well it’s safe to say no one expected that we would make 11k camp our home for 9 days but the mountain is our mistress and the weather has the final say. Finally our patience paid off and the weather was ideal for moving to 14k camp.

This morning we packed slowly, waiting for the sun to hit camp and raise the mercury to positive digits. It took a significant effort to dig up and breakdown camp since we had weathered multiple storms here. Our team wasn’t the only ones prepared to move in the good weather. Almost the entirety of camp emptied out and ascended up the mountain, either to move to 14k camp or to cache supplies to prepare for their own move in the following days. It’s safe to say we were in and out of conga lines of mountaineers all throughout the day.

When we finally rolled into camp - the team was tired but elated to finally be at our new home. The mantra was slow and steady as we built camp in the thin 14,000 foot air. The ambient air temp is chilly willy as we snuggle into our large down sleeping bags and think warm thoughts. We will not leave these cocoons until the sun hits our tents tomorrow.

Cheers,
Jack and the Team

Windy Corner

By: Joanie Mayer Hope

11,000 Camp — Denali

On a mountain in the snow

Narrow cliff and rocks below

Waits a dreamer with a heavy heavy load

Shrouded summit in the sky

In the journey is the why

In the marrow of this life is sacrifice

Chorus

There is a place called Windy Corner which few will ever see
A passage from what was to what someday may be
Up at Windy Corner, steady steps gentle strength
Silhouettes of seekers, embrace the loss of living

Windy Corner is the place

Of acquiescence & of grace

Dare to fail, live to die, alone & loved

You must give all to get there

But but you may not succeed

Reckoning of wonder, earth’s breath under your wings

Chorus

There is a place called Windy Corner which few will ever see
A passage from what was to what someday may be
Up at Windy Corner steady steps & gentle strength
Silhouettes of seekers embrace the loss of living

Bridge

If the end of life is death

What is the meaning of success?

The legacy we leave

The sparks of joy we manifest?

The pain we heal?

The love we feel?

Adventures breached

Or summits reached?

The courage to jump fully in

Be naked in our humanness

Final Chorus

Up at Windy Corner steady steps & gentle strength
Silhouettes of seekers embrace the loss of living