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Entries By jack delaney

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Climbs Halfway up Disappointment Cleaver

The Four Day Climb May 16 - 19 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Hannah Smith climbed halfway up Disappointment Cleaver before conditions required them to turn around.  Hannah's team climbed to Ingraham Flats and worked on some ice climbing. The teams descended to Camp Muir and will be packing up and starting their descent to Paradise later this morning.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Sheesh. Those are some gorgeous shots! Ice climbing also sounds pretty sweet.

Posted by: Some guy from Puyallup on 5/19/2024 at 1:44 pm

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Turned at 11,200ft

RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli & Jack Delaney led their Four Day Climb May 10 - 13 to Ingraham Flats this morning. Route conditions prevented the climbers from going further, they were able to take advantage of the nice weather to do a bit of training before returning to Camp Muir.  The teams have packed up and are descending to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them back in Ashford this afternoon.

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Mt. Baker: Delaney and Team Summit!

RMI guides, Jack Delaney and Jackson Breen, had good news to report from Sandy Camp this afternoon. Their team navigated late season conditions on Mt. Baker and made it successfully to the summit! 

Nice work team!

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Four Day Climb: Davis, Delaney & Teams Reach Summit

After a few days of unsettled weather on the mountain, the Four Day Climb August 5 - 8 was able to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier led by RMI Guides Alan Davis and Jack Delaney.  The teams reached the crater rim around 6:30 am PT and enjoyed an hour in the crater.  They will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon.  We look forward to seeing the teams back at BaseCamp later today.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Peter and thanks to RMI guides & staff for a safe and successful climb

Posted by: Chuck Lorenz on 8/9/2023 at 8:34 pm

Congratulations Brett!  Glad to read of the team success.  You’re awesome

Posted by: Olga Walker on 8/9/2023 at 6:51 am

Mt. Rainier: Delaney and Team stand on top via the Emmons!

After some long days of walking and training, the Emmon's seminar led by RMI guide Jack Delaney reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team will enjoy their descent to Camp Schurman and a nice dinner before resting up for their walk out of the backcountry and drive back to Ashford tomorrow afternoon. Nice work team!

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Mt. Rainier: Smith, Delaney & Teams on Summit

The Four Day Climb July 10 - 13 led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Jack Delaney reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:45 am.  Hannah reported a good route, light winds and a nice route. The team enjoyed some time on the crater before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuning down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations! Great pics! Is there a team photo?

Posted by: Susu Therrell on 7/14/2023 at 12:02 pm

Great news!  Filll us in on your decent as soon as you can.

Posted by: Nancy French on 7/13/2023 at 7:35 pm

Denali Expedition: A Final Note from Bond & Team

June 25, 2023 10:00am PT

It seems surreal that just 24 hours ago we were sitting on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier with our fingers crossed for flyable weather. Kahiltna International Airport (KIA) could have just as easily been our home for the next week but instead we slept easily and comfortably on real mattresses for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. Today and only today the weather cooperated for us to make our escape. How did we get here? Let me tell you...

24 hours prior to the 24 hours that we just experienced...

We woke up to a mix of clouds and sunshine at 14k Camp and casually dismantled camp and packed up all our things. The weather and clouds mostly stayed below us with an occasional surge of precip and wind at camp. The walk down to 11k Camp was uneventful other than a quick reunion with Dominic Cifelli and Dave Hahn's respective RMI climbing teams. High fives were had but we kept moving, we had a timeline to meet.

Once at a 11k Camp again we located our cache, set up tents, made water and ate dinner. The clouds rolled in and out of 11 Camp like the tide on the shore. Like the tide, what was in the clouds was wet and gross. After "napping" for around 3 hours, we "woke up" at 9:30pm to get moving again to catch the lower glacier in its most stable and frozen condition. 

Sadly, the cloud we walked into below 11 Camp was hovering around 33 degrees and raining. The team was quickly covered in a layer of ice and rime. Everything - backpacks, trekking poles, goggles, jackets, pants, were incased in a 1/4 cm of ice. We trudged for several hours through this freezing rain. Eventually we got below the cloud, and everyone shed their icy armor that had accumulated. After a break at the bottom of Ski Hill to recover our cache (and thaw out), we resumed trudging on the lower Kahiltna.

A simple 3 more hours of trudging in what ended up being a fairly direct path across the Kahiltna glacier, we arrived at Heart Break Hill. It was time for the final hour of uphill that must be ascended to return to the airstrip. The team's morale stayed high, and hearts stayed unbroken. We made quick work of Heart Break Hill. Shortly after 5am, we were back at the airstrip; 19 days had elapsed since we were last here. It seemed surreal to be back. Even more surreal the weather continued to cooperate, the cloud ceiling stayed high, the sun showed itself briefly! Around 8:45am the drone of a K2 Turbo Otter was heard. 24 hours after leaving 14k Camp, we were picked up in the most wonderful red plane you've ever seen and whisked back to civilization, Talkeetna. 

Everyone has been awake for 24-36 hours at the time of writing this. There is still much clean up and packing to do before we can sleep.

The trip is over, but our memories and experiences will last a lifetime. This is the final blog from The Bond Girls. If you want to know more, contact your loved ones, they have service now! Even if they're pretending they don't...


The Bond Girls

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Reading the first sentence, the unplugged acoustic version of the Ramones’ “I Wanna Be Sedated” started playing in my head as soundtrack and accompaniment.  Reading what the Bond Girls had to do to get to the plane from 14k, I would say they are the real rockstars.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/25/2023 at 11:55 am

Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Return to Basecamp

Saturday, June 24, 2023 7:39 am PDT

We’re at Basecamp and I think there is a good chance we will fly. We’ll let everyone know when we arrive in Talkeetna.

Friday, June, 23, 2023 8:28 pm PDT

The crew descended down to 11,000’ Camp where we will depart for basecamp during the night in hopes of flying off the mountain Saturday.

The weather has not been all that kind to us on this trip and we are in and out of snow as clouds stream up the Kahiltna glacier up and over Kahiltna pass. We’re hoping for flyable weather tomorrow but know that no one has flown off the mountain since Monday. Hopefully the next time you here from us, we’ll Be in Talkeetna!

RMI Guide Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship and Team

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What a disappointment! This will make a third strike and out for eel/camel! Now the next time he sees a Denali will be when he visits us in Washington and our Alaskan Malamute, named Denali, will greet him at the front door. Time to move on my son.

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 6/24/2023 at 9:30 am

Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Turn at 16,800’ Due to Avalanche Risk

Friday, June 23, 2023, 8:40 am PDT

Our Team is back at 14,000’ Camp after a long day of waist to chest trail breaking and ultimately avalanche conditions on the West Buttress. We made it to Washburn’s Thumb at 16,800’, all pickets were buried and not found except for the ones near slopes that naturally avalanche. The Autobahn is incredibly loaded with snow, and I am sure you will not find a single one of the 35 pickets across it!

Our plan is to head to the airstrip tonight and hope to fly.  No one has flown since last Sunday and snow is in the forecast all week, so we will see!

RMI Guide Andy Bond and Team

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What an amazing achievement!  So proud of your perseverance and grateful for your respect for the awesomeness of nature.

Posted by: Len Stevens on 6/24/2023 at 6:08 am

A disappointment, but not a defeat.  You measured up well against one of the sternest challenges.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/23/2023 at 9:12 pm

Denali Expedition: Andy Bond and Team Play the Waiting Game at 14,000’

Wednesday June 21, 2023

Today the team woke up to Groundhog Day!

It has continued to snow but was relatively mild as far as temps and wind go. We masterfully killed a chunk of time in the morning by making a long brunch. After retiring to our tents for the afternoon, we regrouped and planned our potential launch to 17k camp for the next day over some golden, brown, and delicious burritos.

RMI Guide Joey Manship and Team

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Fingers and toes crossed for your summit window. Stay safe and Godspeed.

Posted by: Nancy Forsyth on 6/22/2023 at 5:43 pm

I’m hoping and praying for the news to be from 17,000 when the weather breaks.  Ya’ll stay safe.

I can’t wait to see pictures!  What a quest!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 6/22/2023 at 3:57 pm

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