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Entries By avery parrinello

Aconcagua: Gorum & Team Depart Mendoza, Prepare to Start Trek

Today the team said goodbye to Mendoza for a while. After a leisurely breakfast of pastries, and more pastries, we finished off the process of obtaining our Aconcagua climbing permits. We only experienced a few hang ups in the permit office, which is about par for the course.
We amassed our gear into one big pile in the hotel lobby, partly to prepare to load it into our trailer, and partly just to see how much stuff we have. In my professional opinion we brought enough stuff, judging by volume alone. After transferring our pile into a vehicle, we hit the road to Penitentes. A few naps, and more than a few empanadas later, we arrived in Penitentes.
This afternoon, we packed everything for our travel to Aconcagua Base Camp. Everything has to be packed such that it doesn’t get destroyed on the mules. The team made quick work of that task, leaving us plenty of down time before dinner. I’m pretty sure most people took another nap. Tomorrow morning we will hit the dusty trail, and things for us will get much simpler. For a few days we will just walk, eat, and sleep. Everyone is looking forward to it. We’ll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, and Avery Parrinello

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Aconcagua: Gorum & Team Meet in Mendoza

The team has arrived in Mendoza. All baggage is accounted for, gear is checked, and dinner has been eaten. After a long day of travel we are hitting the hay relatively early. Tomorrow we will drive to Penitentes and get everything organized and packed for the walk in to base camp. The team is excited to get out of town and into the mountains. Stay tuned, and find out what happens next.

RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, and Avery Parrinello

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Fordidden Peak: Frank & Team Summit Via the West Ridge

Hello, this is Eric Frank calling from Boston Basin in the North Cascades. Just wanted to let everyone know that the West Ridge of Forbidden team was back down in camp safe and sound. We had a full day of adventure today. We climbed the West Ridge to the summit. Everyone on the team made it, which was great. (transmission lost)

RMI Guide Eric Frank

RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from Boston Basin post Forbidden Peak summit.

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Forbidden Peak: Frank & Team Summit Sahale Mountain

This is Avery and Eric Frank’s North Cascades team calling from the summit of Sahale today. We’ve had an absolutely beautiful day, couldn’t ask for better weather. Managed to summit early in the day and get some training in in preparation for a Forbidden summit tomorrow. Going to get some rest tonight. And get ready for the Forbidden summit in the morning. Thanks for following along.

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and Eric Frank

RMI Guide Avery Parrinello calls in from the summit of Sahale Mountain in the North Cascades.

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Forbidden Peak: Frank & Team Reach Camp in Boston Basin

Hey, this is Eric and Avery calling from the lower bivy and Boston Basin Camp here in the North Cascades. We started a West Ridge of Forbidden climbing program today. Things are going really well. The team did a great job climbing up to the lower bivy. It’s beautiful up here. Just the right amount of snow and flowers that are about to bloom. We’re hoping to climb Sharkfin Tower tomorrow and then our main objective, Forbidden Peak, the following day. Thanks for following along. I’ll give you a call tomorrow let you know how things are going.

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Avery Parrinello

RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Forbidden Peak - West Ridge team check in from Boston Basin in the North Cascades.

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Just watched some of the videos of climbing Sharkfin on the way to the summit of Forbidden Peak…. GULP!

Looks like a wonderful climb with spectacular views! Good luck for the summit son and to all the climbers!

Posted by: Duncan Mckinnon on 7/16/2017 at 2:19 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team On Their Way Home

Our final day on Denali began just an hour after the second-to-last day ended.  We were up at 1 AM and walking South by three.  The hoped for full-on freeze didn’t quite come through.  While the glacier surface was a little crunchy under the snowshoes, one still sank in a bit more than we’d have preferred.  But half a freeze is better than none when there are crevasse bridges to be crossed.  And we crossed about a thousand of them.  We did have a few scares as team members broke through to wiggle their legs in the void before hastily crawling topside again.  I think all would agree that the morning commute to the airstrip was stressful, brutally tough with big packs, and magically stupendous in terms of scenery and the feeling of accomplishment when it was completed.  We were at basecamp no more than ten minutes before the big red beautiful K2 ski otters swooped in and scooped us up at 9:45 AM.  The rest of the day was spent in glorious summer down in Talkeetna.  We changed into cotton and sandals and sorted stinky gear.  Our celebration dinner at the West Rib was a blast.  We laughed and toasted for hours.  A nightcap at the Fairview and a walk down to the Susitna to see the mountains at midnight made for a perfect ending to a perfect trip. 
Thanks for following… we’ll do it all again sometime. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 8,000’

July 4, 2017
It was the calm and sunny morning we’d been hoping for at 14,000 ft today.  Which certainly made it easier to get up and get sorted for going downhill.  Independence Day at 14,000’ Camp was so nice that we lingered in camp until just after noon.  Then it was walking down, hauling sleds around Windy (but not actually windy) Corner, across the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle hills and into 11,000 ft.  We dug up our long lost cache there and shifted gears.  We swapped out crampons for snowshoes and ice axes for ski poles and the got trudging down toward the Kahiltna Glacier.  It was stunning to come around the corner and to have the entire glacier laid out below us.  We dodged s few crevasses on ski hill and reached our old camp at 8,000’ by 7:30.  Just in time to throw up tents, enjoy a picnic dinner, watch nature’s best fireworks show and to hit the hay for a few hours.  We’ll likely be up at 1 AM and walking by 3 in our quest for travel in cold conditions.  We want the glacier well-frozen for the last bit to the airstrip. 
I read the blog comments to the team at breakfast this morning (we don’t surf the web up here, the comments were cut and pasted into a simple text email to us) and the crew was very happy to hear from so many great friends and loved ones. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Matt-Congrats to you and your team for reaching the summit!  What a tremendous accomplishment!  You’re now in the home stretch.  Good luck getting down safely, and can’t wait to hear your stories.  The Schlesner’s

Posted by: Scott Schlesner on 7/5/2017 at 1:04 pm

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 14,000’ Camp

July 3, 2017

In a perfect world, it would have been sunny and calm at high camp the morning after our summit. Then we could have packed at our leisure and enjoyed morning coffee. Instead, it was a surprise storm with annoying gusts of cold air and the sun caught up in a ragged and ugly cloud cap. We packed and ate anyway and eventually got walking down the West Buttress at noon. The weather was actually worse at high camp than along our descent route. We had a smooth trip down the fixed ropes into an unexpected snowstorm in Genet Basin where we pitched our 14,000 ft camp again. We’ll recover here for a night and give the storm a chance to quit before our journey to 8,000 ft tomorrow. The forecasts still suggest that the weather will improve… some day.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and team

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JW: Seems like the weather making you know you are earning it. Blue ice spectacular. By the time you read this you’ll be safely at 8K with some smooth groomers to the bottom. Enjoy everyone and be safe! Congrats again and God Bless America!!

Posted by: Kevin on 7/5/2017 at 10:19 am

It’s never over ‘til it’s over…stay focused..

Posted by: don brennan on 7/5/2017 at 6:54 am

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Return to 17,000’ Camp after Summit

July 2, 2017
This was THE day after all.  There wasn’t any question that we’d be able to make it work once we saw conditions on the South Peak at 6:30 this morning.  Yes, it was plain that the storm was still with us, with much cloud in every direction out in Alaska, but it was all below us and the winds were light.  We ate, geared up and got moving out of camp by 8:45.  As anticipated, we went from a sunny camp to a shady “autobahn” (the long steep traverse to Denali Pass) but the climbing was just hard enough to keep us warm.  At the pass, we caught a little wind -which we tended to walk in and out of all day- but it was never more than about 10 mph.  We climbed the steep rolls to the “Zebra Rocks” and then the broad upper bowl of the Harper Glacier.  We went past the Archdeacon’s Tower and crossed the football field at 19,500 ft.  Then it was up Pig Hill to the spectacular summit ridge.  There wasn’t much question that we’d make the final 30 min cruise along the spine to the tippy top.
It took us eight hours to get to the highest point in North America.  And then we liked it so much we stayed an hour.  Our descent was free of any complications -all had saved enough energy to make it down safe, with no slips or stumbles.  We were back in camp by 9:30 PM and ate dinner in the late evening sunshine… amazed at what we’d accomplished together.  Now it is after midnight and the sun is around the bend, so good night to all from 17,000 feet in Alaska from a lucky crew of climbers. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Jim - what an awesome once-in-a-lifetimeachievement! All your hard training has paid off! We are all extremely proud of you!

Safe way down the mountain. We look forward to seeing you at sea level soon.

Tha Hanigs.

Posted by: Marco Hanig on 7/4/2017 at 4:20 pm

Jim,  Awesome does not do your feat justice.  It is- as you are- in a class by itself.  We much look forward to celebrating your triumph around Kraken rum drinks at the Martin Box.  Meanwhile, hurry home!  Your bowled over pals at sea level.  Peter and Carol

Posted by: Peter Krogh on 7/4/2017 at 7:26 am

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Summit!

July 2, 2017 6:32 pm PST

Hey, this is Dave Hahn, guiding the last RMI Denali trip for 2017. We’re on the summit. We are up top on a beautiful day. Everybody’s climbing strong. There are ten out of our original twelve, and we’re quite proud of ourselves and feeling very lucky. It’s a beautiful day, and we’re going to climb safe and strong back down to High Camp and then give you a dispatch to let you know we got there safe. Thanks for following.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls from the Denali summit!

On The Map

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Beautiful!  Congratulations! Comedown safely

Posted by: Bettie S on 7/3/2017 at 9:15 pm

Absolutely amazing!! So so proud and excited for you all!! Thinking of you on your way down and have a safe climb! Cheers to you all!

Posted by: Emily Murphy on 7/3/2017 at 6:26 am

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