Entries By will ambler

This morning at 6:15 AM, the Four-Day Climb teams, led by RMI Guides Jess Wedel and Alan Davis, reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. The teams were rewarded with perfect weather and improved route conditions, allowing for a safe summit experience.

After taking in the views and celebrating on the summit, the teams made their way back to Camp Muir. There, they took time to rest, refuel, and reflect on the morning’s achievement before continuing their descent.

Now en route to Paradise, the teams are expected to arrive back at RMI Basecamp later this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbers for their determination, teamwork, and a successful summit.

The Four Day Climb August 16 - 19 led by RMI Guides Leif Bergstrom and Ben Luedtke reached 12,800' today before high winds and a descending cloud cap forced them to turn around.  The teams returned safely to Camp Muir around 8 am. They will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise later this morning.

RMI Guides Will Ambler and Bailey Servais led their team to the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys route. The team enjoyed clear skies and a bit of sunshine as they climbed above the clouds. On the descent, a rainstorm moved in, making for a soggy finish. The team picked up the pace — even running at times — and made it safely back to the trailhead this afternoon.

Congratulations to the team!

At 5:45 am this morning, the Four Day Climb led by Dave Hahn and team successfully reached the summit of Mount Rainier. The climbers were greeted by clear skies and a stunning sunrise, making for a truly memorable moment at 14,410 feet.

The team reported encountering some wind while ascending the Disappointment Cleaver, but conditions improved as they neared the summit. By the time they reached the top, the winds had calmed, allowing for a peaceful and awe-inspiring views.

Currently, the team is on their descent, working their way back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Dave Hahn and the entire team on a safe and successful summit!

Congratulations to the Four Day Climb team led by RMI guides Brent Okita and Will Ambler for reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier!

With clear skies and breathtaking views, today’s climb was nothing short of spectacular. Huge kudos to the team for their determination and teamwork on this unforgettable journey.

The Four Day Climb June 30 - 3 July led by RMI Guides Will Ambler and George Hedreen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  They enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent around 7 am.  Will reported sunny skies and light winds.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break and repack, then continue the final 4.5 miles down to Paradise.  They will conclude their adventure this afternoon with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Wednesday, June 18, 2025 - 10:16 pm PT

Well, this one is a couple days late. Like most members of the team, I have also been through quite a time warp. As I sit here tonight and am thinking about the trip, it occurs to me that just four nights ago we were still making our way back down to 17,000' Camp from the summit. Time flies when life is just a series of naps in between hard walking, unpacking, repacking and digging up caches. Truly the final 72 hours of a Mt. McKinley expedition is one of the hardest pushes most of us will make in the mountains. In that amount of time we: move from 14 Camp to 17 Camp, sleep, have our summit day, sleep, descend from 17 Camp to 11 Camp, sleep just a couple of hours and then descend from 11 Camp to Base Camp. All of that is assuming good weather.

This time around we had the fortune of great weather for a summit day and for our exit. Upon our arrival to Base Camp we waited only a short amount of time for the planes carrying Dave Hahn's team onto the glacier to arrive and take us off. It's quite a funny position to be in, tired and haggard from 17 days on the glacier and looking at another team with fresh clothes on, perfectly packed and with a bunch of empty CMCs (poop cans) just arriving. It feels like there is so much to tell them, but they will all learn their own lessons in due time.

Anyhow, the next moment you find yourself in a small plane, diving through a hole in the clouds and speeding along at the edge of a cloud ceiling about 1,000 feet above the Tokositna Glacier, which your pilot is using as a handrail as you take a long exit from the range. Your cell phone finds service and depending who you are and where you work, you have some incredible amount of unread messages and emails and normal life comes roaring back in an instant. There is still unpacking to do in Talkeetna, checking out with the National Park Service, returning the full CMCs and a celebration dinner in a town full of tourists, at which I could barely keep my eyes open, the past few days catching up to me.

The next day we all headed for the airport in a van driven by the only guy keeping it low key at the Fairview the evening before. I think Bill is mostly there to sing karaoke and may have just been having a cranberry juice, straight. Having booked a flight just a day prior, both Will and I sat in middle seats for the flight back to Seattle, the people to my right and left having to deal with the sunbaked guy next to them sleeping open-mouthed.

Finally, most of us had our first day back at home or first day of an extended vacation in Alaska today. I'm sure we all tried to find our way back in to some routine, just to be reminded by the burnt lips, tongue and nostrils that we just had one of the wildest and most memorable experiences of our lives. I know that for myself, those nights walking down the lower Kahiltna Glacier to basecamp are forever etched in my mind as some of the most rugged beauty I have ever witnessed.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

The RMI Team led by Dustin Wittmier climbed strong from 17,000' Camp to the summit of Mt. McKinley. They gained the summit ridge at 4:45 pm local time and continued to the summit at 20,310' arriving at 5: 28 pm Alaska time on Saturday, June 14th.  

After enjoying some time on top, the team descended to 17,000' Camp reaching camp around 10 pm local time where they spent the night.

Congratulations to today's climbers!  

Friday, June 13, 2025, 10;01pm PDT 

We’ve made it to Camp 17 and are settling in for the night. Despite my usual reservations about this camp, tonight has offered a surprisingly calm and beautiful evening—one of those rare moments that makes you pause and appreciate where you are. Spirits are high, and the team is feeling strong. We’re planning to push for the summit in the morning. Conditions look promising, and we’re ready for what lies ahead.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Thursday, June 12, 2025 8:54pm PDT

Denali dispatch -Don’t let her savagery fool you. This mountain has a mind of her own. Sun turns to snow and calm turns to wind. A cyclical pattern as unpredictable as the market’s response to earnings beat these days. Volatility is the name of the game, and a patience rooted in readiness is a must. When she cooperates never expect ideal but tolerable is enough. Embrace her wind and moodiness, it makes her that much more endearing.

We spent the day eating, resting, and visiting the edge of #4 the world. Let me tell you, it did not disappoint. Here are some more lessons learned for the loved ones back home.    

1. If it has a name, it means the mountain wants it to be named. For example, Squirrel hill is “squirley,” that may take a minute to digest. The names mean obstacles, and the obstacles mean hard. Don’t let the inviting nature of the titles fool you. If your guide calls a part of the mountain anything other than the route, you know you’re in for it.

 2. Pee bottles, I know to those back home this is a grotesque thought, but up here they are a gift. Embrace your gift. Own your gift. Treasure your gift. As Lacie said, under no circumstances, zero circumstances, does she leave her tent at night to pee. Now I understand her logic.  

3. Nighttime and darkness are not symbiotic here in Alaska. Night is light and day is light. Another essential item is the eye mask but really the eye shield. It’s amazing how you can trick your “I need darkness to sleep” body into submission. The titled portions on the route are extra wreck you parts, the foundation of your hard as hell sundae, and the eye mask is the cherry a maraschino cherry on top. Does anyone even like those?

4. Ditch loops are magic. Sprinkled fairy dust when you need to throw off your pack. Punches and cream? Rumple punchskin? Puncharella?

5. Healthy is consuming the most calorie dense food you can. Frozen or thawed, who cares. Eat it and eat a lot of it. #frostingdoesnotfreeze.   

6. Blue bags are a triple bag system for a reason. Do not roll. Do not wrap. Twist tie then knot, your pack and guide will thank you. Extra tips required for solving your personal poop problems.

7. A 38-degree tent is warm, sauna like warm. No cold plunges needed on this mountain, just walk outside and you’re set.

8. Foot baths in the cook tent are a no A forever no. A never again no.

9. When the guides say you have an hour before we are walking it feels more like five minutes. If you’re sitting around at any point, you are doing it all wrong. Remember cramming for tests in school? Bring that urgency and maybe you have a chance of being on time if you’re container store organized.

10. Lather on your sunscreen Even on the days you are not sure you’ll ever see the sun again. Bathe in your sunscreen. You can never apply it too often. Pro tip: bring a sunscreen stick for the extra miserable, inopportune moments you must reapply

10.Rest breaks go something like: parka, pee, sit on pack, drink, eat, apply sunscreen, drink again, throw your pack on, repeat. Super restful, obviously. Side note, just because you see another team resting it doesn’t mean you get to “rest” there too. Best not to get your hopes up.

12. Most people don’t realize there is a dry cleaner up here. The life of luxury, truly Your sleeping bag isn’t just your haven of warmth, but it serves as your personal drying machine. You know when you do laundry and you fill the machines to capacity to fit it all in one load? Or when you’re bringing groceries inside and you load up both arms to make one trip? That’s your sleeping bag. Fill her up and let her go to work.

13. Rest step. It’s as essential to your movement efficiency as brushing your teeth is to your smile.

14. Bring a pillowcase. One that smells like home. A little bit of comfort in the uncomfortable.

15. Do not assume relationships. Father, daughter, mother, son, grandparent, grandchild etc. Sure, everything is fine when you get it right. But when you get it wrong, well, someone walks away like a small child without a piece of candy from a candy store. My aunt said she is the butterfly on my pack, or this trip and she nailed it. To all the butterflies on with us, thank you. Your encouragement and belief fuels us in the valleys and celebrates with us on the mountaintops

Thank you for the continued prayers, we can’t wait to make it back home to all of you. Weather permitting, we are on the move again tomorrow, our last big push to embrace all the hard this mountain has left for us. We may have underestimated her beauty, but we never underestimate her boss-ness.

Love,

RMI Climber Caroline and Team