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Entries By sam hoffman


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams with Okita & Hoffman Reach Summit

The Five Day Climb July 11 - 15 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Sam Hoffman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today on a beautiful day. The team is currently on their descent.  Their patience paid off as they waited yesterday for many RMI Guides to reestablish the route to the summit.  The teams will return to Camp Muir to repack and rehydrate before continuning down the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later today. 

Congratulations climbers and a HUGE thank you to all the guides working on the route over the last several days!

PC: Stella Johnson

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Shoutout to Sam and Roland for making this an incredible experience! The fact that you worked longer hours to ensure we had an alternative route to reach the summit is what made this entire trip! I have nothing but great things to say about you both! I hope to climb a different destination with you both one day in the future! Thank you again!

Posted by: Jade Craig on 7/16/2024 at 8:23 pm

I won’t be on the DC route next week when I climb, but wanted to thank the guides for working hard to re-establish the route around what sounded like a gnarly crevasse collapse.  Congrats to the climbers that reached the summit.  Enjoy the Rainier Beer and cider.

Posted by: Constantine Velentzas on 7/15/2024 at 2:10 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to BaseCamp, Return to Talkeetna

Tuesday, July 2, 2024 - 8:15 am PT

So the plan was to walk out in the early morning with the glacier surface frozen up nice and firm. Good plan. But it didn’t freeze.  We had a wet snowstorm from 11 PM  until 6 AM at our final camp… mostly it just preserved the slush. And then we were socked in with cloud until midday.  But when the clouds lifted, we broke records taking down camp and stretching out the rope teams. We were moving at 1PM and then stopped at 1:01 PM figuring out the first crevasse crossing. There were a few thousand more to figure out. Our final day took about six hours and included a couple dozen snowshoed feet and legs going into crevasses, but thankfully no bodies.  And magically, as we pulled up the final hill, the weather cleared and two beautiful K2 Otters glided in to the snow strip. We loaded planes and were off deck by 8 PM. There wasn’t much time for gear sorting back in Talkeetna. But there turned out to be time for Mountain High Pizza Pie and the Fairview Inn.  The team still has a couple of high altitude hacks, some tired legs and some sunburned faces, but those faces were smiling last night as we settled into the Swiss Alaska Inn. 

No summit… it is true.  But we tried.

Best Regards

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius

PC: Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Tony - Wow. Incredible on so many levels. What an experience. Life is what you make of it … and clearly you are making the most of it!

Posted by: Marc on 7/7/2024 at 8:27 am

Congratulations to the guides and climbers on a job well done! Whether in climbing or so many other things, some day’s a diamond, some day’s a stone. Hugs to all. Saying hi to Karen. Hope to see you soon at Green Lake Fitness. We’ll keep the light on for you. Dean

Posted by: Dean Wingfield on 7/2/2024 at 2:45 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Getting Closer to Base Camp

Sunday, June 30, 2024 - 10:16 pm PT

It was cold at 14,000' this morning because we didn't wait for the sun to get around the mountain. But the cold was nowhere near what we'd experienced up high. We ate breakfast, packed and got on our way. Back to pulling sleds.  We pulled them around Windy Corner, through the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills. Down at 11K, we dug up the cache of gear and made our switch to snowshoes. It was a treat to be the only team left on the lower mountain (there are perhaps five or six teams still above us). It was pretty easy going down the Kahiltna Glacier until we reached Ski Hill where the combination of mushy snow and crevasses made things less fun. Even so we made good time reaching 8,000'. We set up camp as clouds rolled in from above and below. Our hope is to have things freeze up in the night to make for safer and easier travel, but with cloud cover, that doesn't always happen. We'll see what we get. Basecamp is potentially just four hours away. 

Best Regards, 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Bummed you guys didn’t summit.
Was of course hoping you would on July 1st.
I was fortunate enough to summit on July 1st 1994 with Craig John, Ford Huntington , and Jennifer (?) as our guides.
Guess there is always next year.
If any of you see Joe Horiskey tell him Hi for me !

Posted by: Don West on 7/1/2024 at 8:15 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to Thick Air of 14,000ft Camp

Saturday, June 29, 2024 - 10:10 pm PT

Life is easier at 14,000 ft.  It was still a little breezy and cold this morning as we packed up at 17K.  It still looked like the wind was howling up above. But of course we had our eyes on a dignified retreat. And a careful one. There were quite a few tricky steps to manage on the descent of the West Buttress. It was a relief to have the fixed rope section completed without incident. We rolled into 14,000' Camp at 5PM and had an easy evening in the sunshine. Yes, we are still a long way up a mountain, but everything is more friendly down in the thicker air.  We'll try for 8,000 ft for tomorrow night.

Best Regards, 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thinking of you Tony!  you got this!!!

Karl and Diane

Posted by: Karl Ring on 7/1/2024 at 7:17 pm

so proud of you guys!  proud of the wisdom of your guides, the skill and strength of the team, and wow what stories you will have to share!!  much to celebrate when you return!!  lynn

Posted by: barbara theiss on 6/30/2024 at 10:12 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Reach 18,850’ on Denali

The day started out calm, so we started out climbing. We left high camp at 8:30. The day was slightly warmer than the last few, but there was less sun, so it didn't really feel all that warm. We had most of our clothing on for the 2.5-hour journey to Denali Pass.  It was a little breezier at the pass, so we didn't rest long there. We got into significant wind and clouds in the next hour pushing up the steep rolls to Zebra Rocks. Finally, we had to call it quits at around 18,850 ft.  Storm conditions stayed with us all the way back to high camp. It was a slow descent because of that and some justifiably tired legs.

We were in camp by 6 PM and into the shelter of the tents shortly after.  We gave it a good go but got turned by some tough conditions. That happens. We'll begin our descent tomorrow. Some tough and careful climbing is still to come. 

Best,

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Marjerison, Sam Hoffman, Nick Sinapius & Team 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Too bad the weather did not cooperate, Wallis.  Great job, nevertheless!!  Have a safe climb down.

Posted by: Subbu Aiyer on 7/1/2024 at 6:29 am

So sorry to hear the weather was not cooperative! Great job Jon and to everyone in pushing through for as long as you did in windy conditions, but better safe than sorry! Kudos to the knowledge and wisdom of the guides and team in prioritizing safety. Positive thoughts for a safe and easy descent!

Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/30/2024 at 9:01 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Wait out the Weather at 17,000’ Camp

It was a windy night at high camp, followed by a windy day. More importantly, it was still too windy up on Denali's South Peak for us to make an attempt. Low level clouds have come in, obscuring our views of many of the surrounding mountains. We still have hope for improved conditions tomorrow, but that will likely be our last shot at the top. Given all that, the team has stayed upbeat and excited for a chance to climb.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I heard it was a rough day and had to turn back. Job well done to get that far Tony!!  I opted for some Double Rye with a friend last night and will do the bourye when you’re down safely!  Congrats on what I assume is your altitude record?  In TKPhi and Stay safe - Mark

Posted by: Mark Miola on 6/29/2024 at 8:22 am

good luck Katie & team!! Rooting for you!

Posted by: devi mehrotra on 6/28/2024 at 11:01 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Continue to Wait at High Camp

Wednesday, June 27, 2024 - 9:58 pm PT

Still in a holding pattern at 17,000 ft. There were obvious strong winds blowing on our climbing route first thing today. We watched and waited for calming.  It did die down a little at midday -too late for climbing- but then the winds roared back to life in the afternoon.  We napped, read and generally passed the time.  We can walk about a hundred feet from camp to a tremendous view of half of Alaska. The team is hanging in and hoping for a shot.

Best,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

fingers crossed for better weather soon!!

Posted by: Seth Cochran on 6/28/2024 at 3:01 am

Keeping good thoughts going the weather is in your favor to summit. Hi Caryn, Love Mom!

Posted by: Divy Karolyi on 6/27/2024 at 3:43 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Have Dress Rehearsal for Summit Day

Tuesday, June 25, 2024 - 9:33 pm PT

A little bit of a tough one for us. We geared up and started climbing the "autobahn" toward Denali Pass. The team was handling the terrain well but a cold wind got going and our sense was that it was strengthening. We turned at 17,800ft and the wind died before we'd reached camp. It likely would have worked for climbing after all. We turned the day into a rest/acclimatization day and we'll give the summit another try tomorrow. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go team! I am praying the winds calm down for another attempt - you guys got this! Dad, you’re a beast and I can’t wait to hear all the stories. Love you so much! - Rach

Posted by: Rachel Shoppy on 6/27/2024 at 10:57 am

You guys will summit tomorrow for sure! Praying for great weather! Good luck!

Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/26/2024 at 9:45 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Move to High Camp, 17,000

17,200 ft sure feels good! We pulled out of 14,000' at 10 AM. It snowed a few inches in the night but by morning the clouds were dropping down. We had a clear shot of the West Buttress and the South Summit. Our packs were a good deal heavier than when we carried. Today was tough climbing but the entire team did quite well. We reached our new home in 6.5 hours and set to building camp. Such work is tough enough, but it was double tough in the thin air. Eventually we had tents to take shelter in snd and a hot dinner out on the patio. We talked over the challenges we are likely to face going for the top tomorrow. It was a treat to greet Dominic Cifelli's triumphant team as they rolled back into camp -about when we were buttoning things up for the evening.  Fingers crossed for one more perfect day. 

Best,

RMI Guides Dave, Sam, Sam and Nick

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

The weather forecast looks good if I’m reading it right out of Fairbanks. If that holds you’ll smoke it. Got get ‘em safe and sound.

Posted by: Gregory Poulos on 6/26/2024 at 3:53 am

You’re almost there! Great job Jon and team!! We at work are thinking of you and cheering you on! Hoping for great weather and beautiful views tomorrow! Onward and upward!!!

Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/25/2024 at 8:04 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000 Prepare for Move to High Camp

Sunday, June 23, 2024 - 9:33 pm PT

There seemed to be general agreement that last night's sleep was a good one. That could mean that we are getting acclimatized to 14,000'. But it could also mean we were justifiably tired after yesterday's carry. Today was easy, in any case. We ate, took naps and sorted gear for the big move up tomorrow. It was calm and sunny through the morning, but the afternoon clouded up and light snow started falling. It still doesn't count as a storm though.

We just need a couple more good days. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison & Nick Sinipius 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations on your success so far.  Your hard work has paid off.  Keep your eye on the prize.  Good luck tomorrow.

Julie and Mike

Posted by: Julie Baron on 6/25/2024 at 7:53 am

This is awesome news. Go team! Praying for good weather, strength, and a successful summit. Love you so much dad! - Rach

Posted by: Rachel Shoppy on 6/25/2024 at 7:31 am

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