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Entries By mike haugen


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Take Well Deserved Rest

June 26, 2017
Today was a well deserved rest day! Yesterday was quite the endeavor and I think everyone was happy to not have an alarm clock to answer to. We stayed cozied in our sleeping bags until the sun hit our tents and the warmth beckoned us out around 9:45 am. Emerging from our tents we wet straight into a leisurely Quesadilla breakfast, a special request by Pepper Dee, who turned 26 today! Later in the day we took a walk to the Edge of the World and everyone got to strike a pose while peering out over the vast expanse of glaciers and mountain peaks. I may be bias but I think the best picture involved a blow up couch that the birthday boy had hauled up all the way from base camp! We finished the day off with a quick dinner and chat about plans for tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we will be headed to 17,000’ camp in order to be in position for our summit bid! Yeehaw!

Good night from 14!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Julian… AMAZING!!!
Nice work pulling it up to 17K on the big wall and fixed lines.
The photo back down at The Edge in 14 camp is spectacular. Happy that you and your team that have amazing weather. Saturday looks like it might dump metres of snow again, but then you’ll be back in the clear. Best of luck!!! Stay safe.
Stephen

Posted by: Stephen Wright on 6/28/2017 at 11:03 am

What kind of pose did you strike Gloria!

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/28/2017 at 1:11 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team at 14,000’ Ready to Move to High Camp

June 25, 2017
We must be doing something right to deserve this many days in a row with good weather! The team had a great day working our way up to cache gear, food, and fuel at 17,000 ft Camp. The ridge that leads up to high camp provides some incredible climbing and amazing views.  A few of our climbers commented that it was the best climbing that they have ever done. The team did so great that we earned a rest day tomorrow before we position ourselves up at high camp the day after. Superstitiously, we all agreed not to take a shower as long as this good weather holds. This shouldn’t be too tough to abide by as the nearest shower is a weeks walk away!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go, Jeff!!! 


We are loving tracking your progress.

Posted by: T + A on 6/27/2017 at 5:58 am

We are keeping our fingers crossed that the weather holds for you to reach the summit. Lots and lots of luck and love! Dad and Mum

Posted by: Liz Bannister on 6/26/2017 at 10:39 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

June 24, 2017 10:36 pm PST

And today we rested. After our big move day yesterday we felt we deserved a day of kicking back and recovering. We made a point of emerging from our tents no earlier than 10 am and got the day started out right by consuming a mountain of pancakes. Kudos to Caleb for consuming the largest pancake of the morning! By 1 pm we were wrapping up the pancake party and as you may imagine, that long of a breakfast can really take it out of you .... So we rested a bit more. Once we felt we had properly digested we reviewed fixed line travel and running belays in preparation for our carry tomorrow. After practice for a few hours it was nearly time for dinner! Funny how time flies on a rest day. We had an early dinner of gourmet Ramen and before the sun could go down on us and give way to the chill of 14 Camp we headed to bed. Tomorrow we have our first go at the fixed lines!

Goodnight from 14!
Hasta Manana

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to 14K Camp

June 23, 2017 10:30 pm PST

Greetings from 14 Camp on Denali!

Our team took advantage of stable weather and strong legs today to retrace our steps back up to 14,200 feet, this time with tents and sleeping bags in tow. We were excited to ascend the steeps of Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill for the last time, and lucky for us, windy corner proved not so windy after all.

The rest of the day was devoted to digging in our new camp, which is looking dialed and styled. The team is looking forward to having some time to relax and adjust to the new altitude tomorrow, with a non-zero chance of Horiskey-style blueberry pancakes.

Ciao,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations on your achievement, thus far.  The last photo was stunning beyond words. Mother Nature has been good to you.  Bon chance!  Brenda

Posted by: Brenda on 6/24/2017 at 8:38 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Carry to 14,000’, Ready to Move

June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

The last picture was great.  More close ups!  When do you get to dump the sled?  Nice effort Marc, Tucker.

Posted by: Brenda Reid on 6/23/2017 at 1:40 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Gearing up for Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 21, 2017
Good weather has finally hit Denali. The pressure is rising along with the temperatures….for now. We have had a good time at our 11k camp but it time to start moving up higher. Our plan is to do a carry up to 14,000 feet to cache some gear and then move up after a couple of days. If this weather holds, we will wake up early and hit the trail so we can get up to 14k before it gets too hot. Most people would think that being to hot would not be an issue while mountain climbing in Alaska, but it can be a real energy drain when the hot sun reflects off he snow like a solar oven.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Glo, I can only imagine the view from your front porch has to be spectacular and awe-inspiring! You and your fellow climbers are in our thoughts and prayers, be safe, love you, dad

Posted by: Dave Roe on 6/24/2017 at 9:44 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Retrieve Cache

June 19, 2017
Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn’t have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move to Camp 3

June 18, 2017
Well folks, I’m happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I’d be lying if I said it didn’t make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000’ and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We’re now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600’ to retrieve the rest of our belongings.

Good night from Camp 3!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome reading about your daily travels.  Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)

Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am

Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa

Posted by: David Roe on 6/19/2017 at 8:38 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Ascend Ski Hill to Camp 2

June 17, 2017
We’ve made it! To Camp 2! It was early, it was snowy, and it was sloggy but we made it! We left camp at 3:45 this morning to stick with our nocturnal schedule and to avoid the post holey conditions. Lucky for us the snow had firmed up and the walking was primo. The visibility on the other hand was little to none, and our only views were those of the rope teams in front of us. We made a few discoveries along the way, for instance uphill travel is much easier without your sled break on! After a few more hours, the occasional bump in the road, and a fair amount of pressure breathing, we pulled into the white expanse of Camp 2. I wish I could tell you views were beautiful but I’ll have to wait until the sun comes out! We’re now all cozied up in our tents, enjoying some R&R, before a tasty meal of Horiskey Mac and Cheese!

The memories of the slow ascent of Ski Hill are already fading and we are setting our sights on moving to 11,000’ tomorrow. Spirits are high and backs are strong!

Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Marc and Chris,
Thinking of you two on your adventure! Hope you’re having a blast!
-Marcia

Posted by: Marcia on 6/19/2017 at 12:17 pm

Love you Gloria!

Posted by: Michelle W on 6/18/2017 at 9:23 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Pull Heavy Loads up Ski Hill

June 16, 2017 10:02 pm PST

Greetings from Camp 1 on Denali!

Today the team took an early morning stroll up the Kahiltna, only mildly inconvenienced by absurdly large packs and sleds packed with all the supplies as food we’ll need for the next several weeks. Traveling with so much weight takes some getting used to, and everyone is doing a great job adapting to the new systems in play. We arrived at the base of Ski Hill in a heavy snow fall, but after a much needed afternoon nap the sun came out and we were able to get a good view of our spectacular surroundings.

Tomorrow, weather permitting, the plan is to walk uphill some more! With any luck, we’ll be checking in from 9,600’ tomorrow night.

In Horiskey we trust,

RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, and Gloria Roe

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I love the red tents against the white. Must be fabulous to look around you!

Posted by: Michelle W on 6/18/2017 at 12:50 am

Pictures are aMazing!  Know there are many following you and sending you warmth and good vibes every step of the way!

Big Love to all if you!

Posted by: Ann Cook on 6/18/2017 at 12:40 am

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