Entries By jake beren

The Four Day Summit Climb August 28 - 31, 2016 teams led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Christina Dale were approaching the crater rim at 7:15 am.  Jake reported moderate winds and cold temperatures but overall a very nice day for climbing. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

The Four Day Summit Climb August 15 - 18, 2016 enjoyed an alpine start from Camp Muir under a beautiful full moon.  RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ben Liken reported great climbing with warm temperatures and calm winds. After spending time on the summit both teams left the crater rim on their descent just before 7:30 am PT.  We look forward to meeting the groups back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Christina Dale led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Both teams reported clear skies and warm temperatures with great climbing conditions.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:45 am PT.  They will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later today.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climbers!

With a squirrelly forecast our team of intrepid explorers launched into the mist surrounding Mt Baker just three days ago.  Hiking through the forest and meadows before stepping onto the glacier gave us a pleasant warm up for the climb to come.  Establishing camp on the Coleman Glacier just before the rain began was a welcome bonus. 
The rain persisted through the evening and we were happy to be snug in our tents. Waking up early wasn’t that encouraging and we hit the snooze button for a few hours, waiting for the weather deities to smile upon us.  Smile they did at a perfectly reasonable 7:30 am.  Off we went to improving skies and an excellent route. 
We found excellent conditions and a perfect day in the mountains.  As far as climbing Mt. Baker that day, we felt most lucky indeed.  Good job team!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

A fine adventure was had by all on this Mt. Shuksan Climb! Our team chose the Fisher Chimneys route and all that it had to offer. This route is fantastic for the variety of conditions it offers, from snow and ice to technical rock and a truly stunning approach via the absurdly picturesque Lake Ann.

We found the mountain to be in perfect shape, with smooth glacier travel and few other climbers on our route. As we made our attempt on the summit, we connected with climbers from the Sulphide Glacier route at the summit pyramid. There’s plenty of room for everyone on that mountain and though it was a little busy, we somehow had the summit all to ourselves!

It was a fantastic three days in a crazily beautiful place, shared with a fun team. Peter and Ann rocked and we had a great time learning how to move through the mountains. Thanks everyone!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys route this morning around 10 am PT.  Jake reported clear skies with a light layer of clouds below and light winds. The team enjoyed some time on the summit today all on their own, although the route was busy they were on the summit alone.  The team safely returned to high camp where they will spend their final night of the trip.  Tomorrow morning they will hike out to the trail head.

Congratulations to today’s Mt. Shuksan Team!

Mt. Baker did not fail to impress our small team this week! We set out from Glacier, WA to make an attempt on Mt. Baker’s mighty North Ridge. Our approach put us at camp at the toe of the Coleman Glacier where we reviewed relevant climbing techniques and relaxed ourselves to sleep.

We awoke under the full moon and set out at dusk to begin the climb. A few hours of casual glacier travel found us at the base of the route. The forbidding clouds to the west stood down and we began our ascent. We gained the ridge and with some steep snow climbing and we were in business! Soon it was time to get into the meat of the route, the ice pitches. Under the snice (snow+ice) there was quality ice, so it didn’t take too much excavation to find good placements for our tools. As we topped out the ice pitches the clouds returned and soon we were relying on instruments to find the top. After a bit of thought-provoking route finding we navigated the jumbled glacier that guards the cumbre (summit) and celebrated efficiently before descending the Coleman route back to camp.

It was a great day with good company - all you can ask for in the mountains! Standing on top doesn’t hurt either.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

RMI Guide Jake Beren and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning via the Kautz route. Jake reported clear skies on the summit. The team will spend some time on the summit before making their descent. The team will spend one more night on the mountain before descending off the mountain tomorrow.

Way to climb!

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Paul Rachele reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Jake reported a “super beautiful” day with light winds, and a cloud layer at about 8,000’. The teams have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

The summit climbs, led by Jake Beren and Paul Maier, successfully summitted Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams began their decent at 7:45 AM, reporting clouds above and below them.