Entries By christina dale

Today we walked the 400 steps up to the “Monkey Temple” and appreciated the colors and diversity of religions all celebrating in one shared space.  Then we braved the traffic and crossed the city to Bodhnath,  the world’s largest stupa.  We made a few coral, walking around it clockwise, for good luck.  We spun the mani wheels which send out blessings for all sentient beings and will start our journey properly.

One of the highlights of our morning explorations was learning how the intricate painting called “thankas” are made.  We went to a studio where they showed us how they stretch cotton on a frame and spend three days rubbing wax into it with a smooth stone before they can paint.  A sketch is freehand drawn onto the smooth cotton and then it takes anywhere from 4 to 7 days of work for the artist to paint.  The masters use real gold leaf and hand crushed minerals for color.  Most of the artists were using paint brushes as fine as one or two yak hairs.  It was so inspiring that a few of us purchased some of these gorgeous works of art with so much meaning behind them.
This afternoon consisted of a good gear check so everyone feels ready to hit the trail tomorrow.  Hopefully, our flight to the short Lukla runway is smooth so I don’t get motion sick.  We’ll be in the Khumbu tomorrow!

RMI Guide Christina Dale

Well, 80% of the team and 70% of the bags made it to Kathmandu, but never fear, it looks like we’ll be together tomorrow.  The airlines and connections just weren’t cooperating but every trip has some tough spots and we just wanted to get ours out of the way early on.

The rest of us spent the day walking, sightseeing, eating baked goods, and resting.  We did go for a great dinner of chicken tikka masala and naan in Thamel this evening where we got to know each other and start wrapping our heads around the adventures ahead and around us. 

Tomorrow we’ll do some sightseeing in Kathmandu, last minute errands,  and a good gear check.  Everyone is full of good positive energy and looking forward to spending the next two weeks together in the Khumbu.

RMI Guide Christina Dale

We connected the circuit today.  Made it full circle around the Torres del Paine Massive!  It was fun to see where we started, not fully knowing what was ahead and now how far we’ve come.  The group has really hit their stride in terms of packing up in the mornings, falling in their favorite order on the trail, and even taking siestas at lunch time.  It’s always fun for me to see a group start wide-eyed and overwhelmed get so comfortable with trail life.  This group has definitely done that.  Most people on this trip, had not spent nine days out and carried their gear but now they make it look natural. 

The scenery did not disappoint today.  We spent all morning watching lenticular clouds form and move off in the distance.  We walked around Lake Nordensjold all day appreciating the color contrasts around us.  Tomorrow some of the group is going to walk up to the towers, others will go halfway and enjoy the views,  and others will treat themselves to a massage—very deserving.  Then we will head back to town.  It always feels bittersweet leaving the trail.  Yes, we are looking forward to pizza and home but we will miss the peace and simplicity that Patagonia has shared with us.

RMI Guide Christina Dale

Here in Patagonia, you drink the water right out of the streams.  It is sourced in the glaciers that hang off the towering granite above us.  We hike all day with an empty water bottle and just fill up at breaks.  They say it makes you strong enough to complete the circuit and it’s definitely worked for this group. Tomorrow we will connect the dots and walk back to where we started,  covering over 100 miles.  It’s hard to describe what we’ve seen because the landscape is awe inspiring around every corner.
Today’s team member shout-out is to a super fun loving couple from Wisconsin that love to laugh. They inspire us all with a passion for adventure and travel. 

RMI Guide Christina Dale

What a day?! The sun glistened off the blue icebergs and the breeze kept us cool on the trail. This group has really found their stride. Breakfast of eggs and freshly baked bread, walking with lots of photo breaks, lunch time, and more walking. What more could we want? We all support one another by reaching people’s water bottles for them or offering around sunscreen. But the couple from Nashville truly steal the show when it comes to generosity. This couple is the first to share their favorite trail snacks (honey stinger gummies) and even offer to take more weight. They are the kindest badasses around and have many more trails to hike and mountains to climb in their future!

Other than this great group of people, some trail highlights have been watching the condors soar, seeing the granite towers, and being surrounded by turquoise waters. The food is also worth mentioning; grilled salmon, stuffed chicken, pork on chili mashed potatoes…it’s a treat. But I’m sure we’ll all return home looking like svelte explorers. ;) Now I’m off for another amazing dinner with a view.

RMI Guide Christina Dale and team

We somehow timed our rest day well with the weather. As it rained cats and dogs we drank coffee, lounged on couches, and took naps in the lodge. We did venture out in the weather this afternoon for a boat ride in a zodiac dodging icebergs. After making plenty of Titanic jokes, we nosed the boat into a large nunitac, a rock island in the middle of a glacier, and hopped out. We donned crampons, helmets, and ice axes for exploring Grey Glacier and headed up the ice. It was full of waterways, ice sculptures, and dune-like landscapes. Our expedition left us wet and ready for dinner. Let’s hope either our gloves dry or the weather clears for tomorrow.

RMI Guide Christina Dale and Team

Congratulations to the team for succeeding on such a tough day.  We crossed over the John Gardner pass today in the wind, rain, and snow.  We started hiking early in the morning to get a start on the long day ahead.  The first hour or two we spent dodging mud pits by balancing on wet slippery roots.  The next two hours we headed up, and up, and up over scree and through river beds. Once on top of the pass, the fun began and the next six hours of the day we spent walking down steep rocks and slippery mud. 

Today’s team member highlight goes to a woman who self proclaimed “this is the hardest thing she’s ever done.”  She is a strong and graceful social worker from Wisconsin. We are all lucky to travel through this rugged Patagonia landscape with her.

Now we celebrate our strenuous day though very challenging weather, at the Grey hut where we’ll be for two nights.  The hut is full of people huddling around the fireplace to dry out layers.  After the past three nights of quiet huts or camping it is nice to have the luxuries of this lodge but it seems a little louder than we’re used to. The team is all happy to have a rest day tomorrow with a chance to explore the Grey Glacier.

RMI Guide Christina Dale

We spent the day walking along the Perro’s River from Dickson to Perro’s Camp.  It is named Perros, Spanish for dog, because legend has it that when ranchers used to live here and cross the rivers on horseback, some dogs would get swept away in the river. The story goes that the dogs formed a pack of wild dogs that still roams this land and if you listen closely you can hear barking at night. The river flows through the oldest forests in the park that have large trees because when the glacier move through this valley it churned up the soil leaving it loose and easier for deep root systems to form. 

It was enjoyable to hike under their lush green canopy as sun was filtered through.  Also, great to have a day with no wind.  It gave our sun and wind chapped cheeks a rest.  But our cheeks are rosy now after some wine and cheese snacks and sitting around laughing at our wildlife biologist’s stories of botflys.  This group has so much fun learning each other’s backgrounds and sharing tales.  We even had to come up with a system to determine the exaggeration level.  But that’s for another blog.  Now we are settling in preparing for John Gardner pass tomorrow.  A little intimidating with its steep ascent and decent and many miles but I’m sure this group will do well and come out smiling.
RMI Guide Christina Dale

They call our camp tonight “Planet Dickson” because it feels otherworldly.  It is a small peninsula of land that sticks out into the emerald waters of Lake Dickson which are dotted by small icebergs.  With no roads to here and horses grazing all around it is paradise. You can skip perfectly flat rocks off its shores or pick the rather bitter Calafate berries around its green lawns. 

We had a long day on the trail so everyone was happy to see the hut this afternoon. The trail gave us an authentic experience of Patagonia’s weather and “Patagonia flat” terrain. The weather here goes from light rain, to hot sun, to gusting winds, to dark skies, to hot sun again in 10 minutes.  It is a moody teenager.  “Patagonia flat” is how the locals refer to terrain that goes up and down a lot.  Tomorrow will bring some more hills and views of hanging glaciers. The team is doing great and in awe of each view.

RMI Guide Christina Dale

We all felt like this was a long approach to the trail head, what with the flying for two days and a bus ride the next, but well worth it.  We finally hit the trail at noon today and were instantly swept into the beauty of the Patagonian landscape.  Happily walking and talking we passed through forests of lenga trees, in the beach family, and through the golden grass lands.  All the lakes and streams here are a different shade of turquoise based on which glaciers feed them. 
After pulling into Seron Camp we had wine and cheese for appetizers, a stroll by the river, and an amazing dinner of salmon.  All a little travel weary, we’ll get good sleep tonight and be ready for more tomorrow.  Everyone is doing really well and send their best to those following!

RMI Guide Christina Dale