Entries By ben liken

Over the past four days the Sahale summit team enjoyed perfect weather and excellent climbing in the North Cascades National Park. As we ascended out of the forest on day one the views kept getting better and better until we stopped to set up our base camp at 5,300 feet. Looking up at the spectacular Boston Basin the team was excited to go up high over the next few days. Day 2 was a training day at the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier; filled with efficiency techniques, crevasse safety, and rock climbing. After a full day of training we went to bed early to rest up for a summit attempt on the classic peak. Summit day went flawlessly and we found ourselves on top at 10:30 am after some really fun glacier and rock climbing sections. Here are a few shots from the trip. Enjoy! RMI Guide Ben Liken

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. RMI Guide Ben Liken Reported that the team was 100% to the summit today with a total round trip climb time of 11 hours. They plan to practice some crevasse rescue this afternoon back at Camp Schurman and then do a bit of training tomorrow morning before returning to Ashford Basecamp. Congratulations to the Emmons Team!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Ben Liken reached to summit of Mt. Rainier at 5:20 am this morning. Tyler reported clear skies, calm winds and warm temperatures on the top. The team has started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Seth Waterfall and Ben Liken, reached the summit at 6:45 a.m. With some wind and snow falling, the teams began their descent shortly after tagging the top. As of 7:50 a.m. they had descended to 12,500' and are moving well back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

The longest day is finished. We "woke" at 10 PM at 11,000 ft, broke camp and hit the trail by midnight, bound for basecamp. Heavy packs and sleds and miles of glacier later, we pulled in to what had been basecamp three weeks ago. That is all gone now though with the finish of the climbing season. We saddled up one last time to go thirty minutes more for the "upper strip" -a better stretch of late-season glacier, and then two beautiful K2 Aviation Otters came in to fetch us. We were back in Talkeetna by 10 AM and eating drinking drying sorting and celebrating for the next 24 hours... Oh yeah, and showering and sleeping too. It was a fine finish to an excellent climb. Thanks for following. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

RMI Guide Dave Hahn just checked in with the RMI Office. His Denali team was able to take advantage of a good weather window and fly off of the Kahiltna Glacier this morning. The team arrived in Takeetna at 10:00am AKDT. The team will spend some time celebrating their success before catching flights home tomorrow. Congratulations to Dave and team, and to all of the RMI Expeditions Denali teams for a successful 2016 Denali season!

Saturday, July 9, 2016 - 8:46 p.m. PDT As planned, today was something of a forced rest day at 11,000 ft. By virtue of our having slept through the night here -which we certainly needed- the next option would have been to travel the lower glacier in the heat of the day... Or to rest up and aim for going out tonight when it gets cold and the glacial surface is frozen and safer for travel. We are all about option two. So the team woke late and folks talked about having gotten a real night's sleep for the first time in weeks. We ate long slow breakfasts and then went back to sleep. It is possible that this will be our last full day in the park, so many took longer looks than usual at the ice and rock cliffs surrounding and towering over us. At first the sky looked threatening, as if it might get to snowing again, but by dinner things had changed back to calm, sunny, blue skies... making us all optimistic about smooth travel out the glacier and the chance for prompt flying from the mountain tomorrow morning. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Saturday, July 9, 2016 - 2:23 a.m. PDT Yesterday was an unlikely summit day. There were clouds everywhere and breezes blowing... But we'd begun to think we wouldn't get anything better. So we went for it, leaving high camp at about 10 AM. Right out of camp though, we were breaking trail... And it went that way all day. Slow going and strenuous climbing. But it mostly went our way. The winds died just before we reached Denali Pass. It was a cold day - by July standards- but our team dealt well with the challenge. Sadly, we never got much in the way of views due to the clouds, but when we topped out at 7:15 PM, no one seemed overly concerned with the things they might have seen on a better day. We made it back to high camp at midnight and had a late late dinner. Breakfast this morning was a rolling thing, with folks wandering through the kitchen one by one as they woke. It was a stunningly nice day... Clear and sunny the way it never seems to be anymore. But we could not have known such a fine day was coming... The forecasts didn't hint at it. In any case it was good for descending. We dropped down the crest of the West Buttress, the fixed lines and the snowy hills above 14 camp. It took time to reorganize there and then we set out for 11,000ft. The route was barely recognizable as there'd been huge snow and plenty of avalanches. We were sinking in deeply and engaging in a great sled rodeo on the steep side hills, but we kept on trudging and finally reached our old home at 11,000ft. We look forward to some deep sleep and recuperation here -6,000 ft below our last home. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Friday, July 8, 2016 - 3:19 a.m. PDT Hey, this is Dave Hahn calling in from 17,000ft on Denali. We summitted today. It was a hard day- 14 hours out there, mostly due to new snow. It was a difficult day to guess what the weather was going to do. We spent a lot of it socked in cloud and light snow, but the good thing was we didn't have much for wind. So it was a hard day, but we're all safe back at high camp. We'll let you know a little bit more about it in these next couple of days. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Wednesday, July 6, 2016 - 9:37 p.m. PDT As we suspected might be the case, today's weather wasn't quite right for climbing. Ultimately there was good sun warming us at the 17,200 ft camp, but we could see wind and cloud whipping over the terrain we wanted to be on a thousand feet higher. So we rested, which -after yesterday's big workout to get up here- seemed about right. Nice to catch up on hydration and sleep and to give the boots a chance to dry out. Not many other people around us now, the mountain is rapidly clearing out as the end of the season approaches. But it isn't over until we say it is... We'll hope to climb Denali tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn