Mt. Rainier: Grom & Team Check Out Cathedral Gap

Posted by: Casey Grom | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'

Casey Grom checked in after the team climbed up to Cathedral Gap on their rest day of the Five Day Summit Climb.  The weather was beautiful!  The team was preparing for their summit bid in the morning.  Check out the photos Casey sent after returning to Camp Muir.

The Summit Climb ascending to Cathedral Gap. Photo: Casey Grom Top of Cathedral Gap on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Casey Grom

Mt. Everest: The Team Sets a Date for Their Summit Bid

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

We held a strategy session this morning and we set the date for a try on the summit.  Weather is expected to improve as the next week goes by, but that was little consolation for those who were at the South Col last night and trying for the top this morning.  Our sources tell us it was a no-go day due to high winds.

We are looking for a shot on the top somewhere in the May 22 to May 23 range, which will mean that we have one more day down in Basecamp to pack, sleep and eat.

Each day at the bottom of the mountain has started out with plenty of sun, so it seemed a little unfair that we sipped coffee in a damp, cold cloud this morning.  It burned off before long though and we were treated to warm and springlike conditions with ice melting everywhere.

Camp seems very quiet at the moment as many people are already up the mountain and getting in place for their attempts on the top.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Views of Everest Basecamp and the Khumbu Icefall. Photo: Casey Grom

On The Map

Sign Up For Everest 2013 Email Alerts

3

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Staying at 11K Camp Another Day

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Well, we’re still at the 11,000’ camp below the West Buttress. The temperatures dropped and the winds picked up considerably today as a cold storm system is affecting Alaska.  Apparently, it’s snowing in Anchorage; that’s about 11,000’ lower altitude than our camp.  So yeah, it’s cold here.  But we’re all doing well.  Most of the day found us either in our sleeping bags in our tents, or in the cook tent, staying out of the wind and passing the time by reading, playing scrabble, and telling stories. We’re hoping the winds abate tomorrow and we are able to move camp up to 14,200’. We’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

11K Camp in Storm Conditions. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2013 Email Alerts


Alaska Expedition Seminar: Marin & Team’s Snow School on the Glacier

Posted by: Andres Marin, Garrett Stevens, Katie Bono | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

Today we woke up with a deep blue sky and a 360-degree view.  The team slept well for our first night on the glacier.  After some coffee and breakfast, we all had the experience to try the CMCs which is one of the biggest novelties of the trip.

Once we were well fueled and ready to head out of camp, we traveled over to a slope close to camp and completed our snow school.  Lots of learning and reviewing made for a fun day on the glacier.

All and all a great day!

RMI Guide Andres Marin

Views around Kahiltna Basecamp, Alaska. Photo: Billy Nugent

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2013 Email Alerts

1

Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent & Team Ready in Talkeetna

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Kel Rossiter, Levi Kepsel | May 16, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Hi all, today kicked off the official start of the second RMI Denali expedition of the 2013 season!  We spent the day dealing with the more unsavory and tedious parts of mountain climbing in our preparation for tomorrow’s flight into the range. Namely, we checked (and re-checked) gear, completed our orientation and permitting process with the NPS, and packed up and weighed all of our food and equipment for loading the planes.  We enjoyed a team dinner on what is hopefully our last evening in civilization.  The team is psyched, strong, and maybe a bit nervous but certainly ready to go - we just need the weather to cooperate tomorrow morning so we can get into Basecamp.

we’ll see…

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Welcome to Talkeetna! Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2013 Email Alerts

1

Alaska Expedition Seminar: Andres and Team Fly on to Glacier

Posted by: Andres Marin, Katie Bono, Garrett Stevens | May 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'

We had the to opportunity to fly today, and get established in base camp. The flight over the Alaska Range was incredible, the group was totally stunned by the views. We built our camp and ate some delicious quesadillas that Garrett Stevens made. Then called it for the day. It is really cool at base camp right now. Time to rest and get ready for a great day tomorrow.

All best,

RMI Guide Andres Marin & The Expedition Seminar Team.

The RMI Alaska Expedition Seminar Team Read to Fly - Photo: Andres Marin

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2013 Email Alerts


Mt. Everest: Making Final Preparations for Summit Bid

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker | May 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

We enjoyed another sunny day at Base Camp and thus a few more rounds of horseshoes.  Our team is getting rested and well fed - two important “to do” items prior to starting our big push for the summit of Mt. Everest.  The team has been finalizing their equipment, deciding on the food items they will take, adjusting their boots, etc. etc.  There are more teams on the upper mountain getting in position for their summit attempt.  We are expecting some teams will make the summit tonight.  It is always hard to be an observer but we are banking with the old saying “good things come to those who wait”.

I guess that goes for you too, since you will have to wait for our next dispatch. ..

RMI Guide Mark Tucker

Dave Hahn on Ice Cyber above Base Camp - Photo: Mark Tucker View of Base Camp from Ice Cyber - Photo: Mark Tucker

Sign Up For Everest 2013 Email Alerts

4

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Cache Gear at 13,600’

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken | May 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 13,600'

We woke up early to a beautiful morning today: cloudless and calm, but very cold. After fueling up for the day with a good breakfast, we started up Motorcycle Hill in the shade, bundled in warm clothes. Our packs were loaded with supplies to cache up high. The weather couldn’t have cooperated much better for us today. After the initial chill on Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill, the temperature was very comfortable on the Polo Fields and around Windy Corner to our cache sight at 13,600’.

We climbed and descended about 2,500 vertical feet today before arriving back at our camp at 11k. We had a big meal and plenty of fluids, and now we’re all horizontal for the night. Our next step will be to move camp to 14k. We’ll keep you abreast of our progress…

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

The Polo Field - RMI Photo Collection Top of Motorcycle Hill - RMI Photo Collection

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2013 Email Alerts


Mt Rainier: May 15th Summit!

Posted by: Brent Okita, J.J. Justman, Mike King, Nick Hunt, Walter Hailes, Steve Gately | May 15, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Five Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and JJ Justman reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The team reported fair weather with winds of about 15mph and a cap on the top of the mountain.  The teams spent some time on the summit and are now on their way back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations Brent, JJ, and teams on the first summit of our 2013 Mt. Rainer climbing season!

6

Mt. Everest: Team Hikes to Kalapathar

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall | May 14, 2013
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

It didn’t appear to be a great day for going to the top of Mount Everest, but it was a perfect day for the top of Kalapathar.  Dan and Seth and I went back down-valley to Gorak Shep and then hung a right to do the classic hike.  Everest still had a jetstream plume of cloud and snow blowing from her upper reaches.  But about 10,000 feet lower down we enjoyed sunny and calm spring weather.  It was good to be out of base for a bit and away from the all consuming obsession with weather forecasts and picking summit days.  We’ll get worked up about it all, soon enough. 

For now it is still a matter of getting the team healthy and strong. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Seth, Dan & Dave on top of Kalapathar with Everest above Seths head.  Photo Dave Hahn

Sign Up For Everest 2013 Email Alerts

6

Previous Page More Entries

Expedition Stats

Vinson Massif
1/1
Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/6 - 1/29
Summit
Cotopaxi Express Ascent
1/22 - 1/29
Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/29 - 2/21
Summit
Mexico’s Volcanoes
2/12 - 2/20
Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb
2/12 - 2/26/11
Summit
Orizaba Express Ascent
3/5 - 3/11
Summit
Everest BC Trek & Island Peak Climb
3/20 - 4/16
Summit
McKinley Expedition
5/3 - Mike Walter
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/18
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/18 - 5/21
11,700'
Mt. Everest Expedition
5/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/19- 5/22
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/18 - 5/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/23 - 5/27
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
5/25 - 5/28
12,100'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/25 - 5/29
11,300'
Mt. McKinley Expedition
5/10 - Billy Nugent
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/26 - 5/29
11,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/29
13,800'
Mt. McKinley Expedition
5/17 - Brent Okita
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/29 - 6/3
10,060'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/1 - 6/4
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/1 - 6/5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/2 - 6-5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6
Summit
Liberty Ridge Climb
6/5 - 6/10
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
6/5 - 6/10
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13
11,200'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/13
11,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14
12,000'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/10 - 6/15
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/10 - 6/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
May 31 - Tyler Jones
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/19 - 6/24
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25
12,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/7 - Jake Beren
17,000'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/28
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28
12,300'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/25 - 6/30
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
6/21 - 7/1
15,300' / Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/4
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/1 - 7/6
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/14 - Mike Haugen
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/5
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/2 - 7/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/3 - 7/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/4 - 7/7
Summit
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/21 - Linden Mallory
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/5 - 7/8
11,600'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/3 - 7/8
Summit
Cotopaxi Express
7/2 - 7/10
18,000'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/06 - 7/09
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/10
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/7 - 7/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/8 - 7/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/9 -7/12
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/8 - 7/13
12,000'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/10 - 7/13
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/11 - 7/14
Summit
Five Day Kautz Climb
7/11 - 7/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/12 - 7/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/13 - 7/16
12,300'
Mt. McKinley Expedition
6/27 - Dave Hahn
16,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/14 - 7/17
13,200'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/15 - 7/18
11,800'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/16 - 7/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/17 - 7/20
Summit
Five Day Emmons Glacier Climb
7/17-7/21
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
7/16 - 7/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/18 - 7/21
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/19 - 7/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/20 - 7/23
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/21 - 7/24
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/21 - 7/25
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/22 - 7/25
13,750'
Four Day Summit Climb
7/23 - 7/26
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/24 - 7/27
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/23 - 7/27
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/25 - 7/28
Summit
North Cascades - Forbidden Peak
7/25 - 7/28
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/24 - 7/29
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/26 - 7/29
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/27 - 7/30
Summit
Kilimanjaro
7/23 - 8/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/28 - 7/31
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/28 - 8/1
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/29 - 8/1
Summit
Ecuador Volcanoes
7/23 - 8/2
Summit / Summit
Kilimanjaro
7/25 - 8/8
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/30 - 8/2
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
7/29 - 8/3
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
7/30 - 8/3
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/31 - 8/3
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/1 - 8/4
Summit
North Cascades - Mt. Shuksan
8/1 - 8/4
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/2 - 8/5
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
7/31 - 8/5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/3 - 8/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/4 - 8/7
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/5 - 8/8
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/6 - 8/9
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/5 - 8/9
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/7 - 8/10
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/8 - 8/11
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise
8/7 - 8/12
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/9 - 8/12
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/10 - 8/13
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/11 - 8/14
Summit
Kilimanjaro
8/6 - 8/20
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/11 - 8/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/12 - 8/15
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/13 - 8/16
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
8/12 - 8/17
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/13 - 8/17
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/14 - 8/17
Summit
North Cascades - Mt. Shuksan
8/15 - 8/18
Summit
Five Day Emmons Glacier Climb
8/15 - 8/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/15 - 8/18
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/16 - 8/19
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/17 - 8/20
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/18 - 8/21
Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
8/18 - 8/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/19 - 8/22
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/20 - 8/23
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
8/19 - 8/24
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/21 - 8/24
Summit
North Cascades - Mt. Shuksan
8/22 - 8/25
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/22 - 8/25
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/23 - 8/26
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/24 - 8/27
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/25 - 8/28
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/26 - 8/29
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/27 - 8/30
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/28 - 8/31
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/29 - 9/1
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
8/30 - 9/2
12,100'
Four Day Summit Climb
8/31 - 9/3
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/1 - 9/4
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/2 - 9/5
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/3 - 9/6
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/4 - 9/7
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/5 - 9/8
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/6 - 9/9
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/7 - 9/10
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/8 - 9/11
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/9 - 9/12
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/11 - 9/16
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/14 - 9/17
Summit
Kilimanjaro
9/10 - 9/24/2011
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/15 - 9/18
12,000'
Five Day Summit Climb
9/14 - 9/18
13,500'
Four Day Summit Climb
9/16 - 9/19
11,300'
North Cascades: Fishers Chimney
9/17 - 9/20
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/18 - 9/23
Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
9/21 - 9/24
10,060
Four Day Summit Climb
9/22 - 9/25
10,060'
Five Day Summit Climb
9/21 - 9/25
10,060'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
9/26 - 9/30/2011
10,500'
Vinson Massif Expedition
11/13 - 12/4/2011
Summit
Ecuador’s Volcanoes
11/29 - 12/9/2011
Cayambe - Summit/ Cotopaxi - Summit
Vinson Massif Expedition
11/30 - 12/21/2011
Summit
Cotopaxi Express
12/10 - 12/18/2011
Summit
Aconcagua
12/12 - 1/4/2012
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
1/8 - 1/13/2012
13,000'
Ecuador’s Volcanoes
1/10 - 1/20/2012
Cayambe - Summit/ Cotopaxi - Summit
Aconcagua Expedition
1/5 - 1/28/2012
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
2/5- 2/10/2012
10,060'
Aconcagua Expedition
1/30 - 2/22/2012
Summit
Kilimanjaro Climb
2/11 - 2/25/2012
Summit
Mexico’s Volcanoes
2/11 - 2/19/2012
Ixtaccihuatl - 14,750'/ Orizaba - Summit
Mexico’s Volcanoes
03/03 - 03/11/2012
Summit/ Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
3/11 - 3/16/2012
7,200'
Everest BC Trek & Island Peak Climb
3/12 - 4/2/2012
Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/8 - 4/13/2012
11,200'
Everest Base Camp Trek
3/12 - 4/2/2012
17, 575

Recent Images

  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn makes a radio call from the summit of Mt. Everest. Photo: RMI Collection
  • View over the Himalayas from the summit of Mt. Everest.  Photo: Jake Norton/ FA
  • View of South Summit. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The McKinley May 21, 2013, Expedition after breakfast in Talkeetna. Photo: Brent Okita
  • An RMI team going towards the South Summit. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Talkeetna Airstrip from the plane. Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn at 25,000 ft on Mt. Everest.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Windy Corner - RMI Photo Collection
  • Cache at Windy Corner - RMI Photo Collection
  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn checking in at Camp 4 on Mt. Everest.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up at the South Col from below the bergschrund.  Photo: Michael Brown
  • Happy Birthday Mark Tucker!
  • RMI Guide Mark Tucker with home field advantage.
  • 11,000' Camp Mt. McKinley - RMI Photo Collection
  • The View at 11,000' Camp - RMI Photo Colleciton
  • An RMI Team Pulling Sleds - RMI Photo Collection
  • Lhotse Face at Sunset - RMI Photo Collection
  • Lhotse Face at Sunrise - RMI Photo Collection
  • Sunset over Everest Camp 2. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Seminar team on the Muir Snowfield. Photo: Casey Grom
  • The Muir Seminar on their way to Camp Muir. Photo: Casey Grom
  • Climbing towards Windy Corner. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking through Camp Walls at 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Pulling sleds up Ski Hill. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Looking up from 11K Camp, Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • RMI Climbers, led by Peter Whittaker and Melissa Arnot, celebrate on the summit of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Jon Mancuso
  • Lhotse Face at sunset from Camp 2. Photo: RMI Collection
Whittaker Mountaineering Notebleu Design

©2013 RMI Expeditions // info@rmiguides.com