Peru Seminar: Elias, Robby and the Team Arrive in Huaraz

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Greetings from Huaraz!

We have arrived to the Andean capital of climbing after our standard eight-hour bus ride from Lima. Everyone is doing great and growing in excitement to get into the range soon. The highlight of the day was to see the Cordillera Blanca as clear as it could be from about two hours out, on a strategic bus stop; a few gasps of amazement were audible.
Tomorrow we’ll start our acclimatization process with a morning hike on the surrounding hills, to be continued by a packing session before hitting the trails for good the next morning.

That’s it for now from Huaraz,

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

RMI Guides Elias & Robby arrive at the Lima Airport. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Huaraz City in Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Settled into 11K Camp for an Extended Stay

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday June 28th 10:22 pm PT

Once again, the weather was a little sloppy in the early hours, so we didn’t get out of the tents until the civilized hour of 7AM.  It was still pretty well socked in at 9,500 ft as we ate breakfast, but things seemed workable for moving up.  We were on the go by 10:00 and in our new camp at 11,000 ft by 1PM.  The clouds cleared from time to time, giving us some great views of the end of the West Buttress.  Luckily, clouds hung in there enough to keep the sun off the final steeper hills into camp.  We dug in and got settled in our new home.  It is a relief, after building four camps in four days, to know that we’ll get to stay in this one for a few days.  The afternoon and evening were spent resting and sorting food and gear.  If possible, we’ll do a carry to 13,500 ft tomorrow.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Moving to 11,000' Camp on Mount McKinley, Alaska. Photo: Lindsay Mann

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2

Mt. Rainier: Four & Five Day Teams Unable to Summit

Posted by: JJ Justman, Tyler Jones | June 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'

The lightning storm prevented the Four and Five Day Summit Climb teams from reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  RMI Guide JJ Justman reported that the teams turned at 11,400’ to seek shelter at Camp Muir.
Their plan is to descend from Camp Muir around 8:30 am PST.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

 

4

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Take a Rest Day

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 5:18pm PST

Resting here at 14 after a big day yesterday. Clouds and sunshine are in and out along with the occasional bout of flurries. Nothing major to report. Now that we are poised and ready we are just playing a chess match against the weather. Hoping to get that window that will take us to the summit...

RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team

The RMI Dining tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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4

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back In Talkeetna

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:15 am PT

It was touch and go at base camp. We woke up to clouds and some very wet snow. As expected, as soon as we started to fire up the stoves to make breakfast and hot drinks, the skies started to open just a bit. I still didn’t think that the weather was flight worthy, but I was glad that the pilots did. We were told that we had 20 minutes to be packed and ready because the planes were already approaching. We were ready in 10! We got the first half of our team onto a plane and off the glacier before the weather started to sock back in. We had to wait for the first plane to go back to Talkeetna, drop off our first group of climbers, and then return. Luckily the weather cleared back up a bit and we squeaked out the rest of the climbers for the amazing flight back to the world of great food and pillows. After a couple of great meals and a series of showers, the now legendary “El Siete” crew is fresh, semi-recovered, and ready to be reintroduced into society. 

Thank you to the group for being such a great team and for all of the families and friends that have supported us.

RMI 7 “El Siete”

The RMI El Siete team on the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Mike Haugen

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3

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Carry to High Camp

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Mike King, Sean Collon | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

June 28, 2015 12:20 am PST

Big day today… In spite of the forecast for 6-12” of new snow to fall today we awoke to partly cloudy skies, sun breaks, and only occasional flurries. Our long-shot plan to carry was a reality. We got rolling and packed up loads of supplies for High Camp and after a quick breakfast we made moves for the headwall and the fixed lines. After a few growing pains the team hit their stride and were able to put a cache in all the way up at high camp. The need for a back-carry could have hamstrung us on our move but since we cached at camp we are sitting pretty, waiting for our summit attempt weather window to open up. We’re planning on a rest day tomorrow and then it’s game on. We’re a tired bunch but we know that today’s hard work will pay off.

All for now!

RMI Guide Billy Nugent

Climbers ascending the fixed lines on Mt. McKinley en route to High Camp.  Photo: Brent Okita

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4

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 9,500’

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately, JM Gorum | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 9,500'

June 27, 2015 10:32 pm PST

We intended to get stirring by about 2:30 this morning, but to no one’s disappointment, that didn’t happen.  It was socked-in and cloudy then with wettish snow in the air.  Likewise at 3 AM, not so good, and not at 3:30 either.  But then things started looking up.  We got up just after five and were climbing by 8:45.  Conditions were once again great for climbing.  With snowshoes on, we stayed right on the snow surface, as did our sleds.  Without too much trouble, we got up “Ski Hill” and hit our intended camp at 9,500 ft around noon.  By then we were in the clouds again and light snow was falling, but we’d gotten high enough to make things cold and so wetness was no longer a problem.  The team all pitched in admirably to build a new camp and then retreated for afternoon naps.  It was burrito night in the POSH tent where we were comfortably seated on snow benches out of the weather. 
We’ll see about moving up to 11,000’ tomorrow if folks are feeling good and the weather gives a break. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Climbers pulling sleds up Mt. McKinleys Ski Hill to 9.500 ft Camp.  Photo: RMI Collection

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6

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit on Top with 100% of Team

Posted by: Brent Okita | June 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita and all of his climbing team were descending from the Mt. Rainier’s crater rim at 6:33 am PST.  Brent reported good conditions with some high clouds and winds 15-20 mph.  The team will return to Camp Muir, repack and then continue their descent to Paradise.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to the entire Summit Climb team!

6

Ecuador Seminar: Walter & Team Summit Cotopaxi

Posted by: Mike Walter | June 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Ecuador
Elevation: 19,348'

We stood on top of Cotopaxi this morning! Our windy adventures in Ecuador continued yesterday and into this morning. Hiking to the climbing hut we battled 30 mph winds, which continued through the evening. When I woke up to check the weather at 11 pm it was windy but clear. I woke the team up at midnight and we had an alpine start breakfast and prepared to climb. By the time we left, clouds were intermittently blowing in and out. During the first hour of our climb a very humid cloud moved in that dampened our outer layers, which then turned to ice. The wind persisted, so did we. Climbing higher, our clothes began to wear a layer of rime ice as we fought with the wind to maintain good posture and climb efficiently. Clouds would come and go (mostly come) throughout our climb, but the wind would not relent. It made the ascent very difficult and also very cold. Our breaks were shorter due to the weather, but the team climbed strong and toughed it out. We reached the summit around 6:45 am, five hours and fifteen minutes after we set out (which, by the way, is a fast pace for Cotopaxi). The summit views were obscured by clouds so we didn’t spend much time up top. Did I mention it was windy?

The descent was smooth and now we’re all resting at the historic Hosteria La Cienega in Lasso, Ecuador, near the south entrance to Cotopaxi National Park. We’ll enjoy a well earned dinner here tonight, and a good night’s sleep with a leisurely wake up call before heading back to Quito tomorrow.

The summit of Cotopaxi was a heck of a way to end our two week volcano tour on the Ecuador Seminar. We’ll check in again tomorrow from Quito.

Saludos,
RMI Guide Mike Walter

Cotopaxi as seen from the Jose Ribas Refugio. Photo: Mike Walter The RMI Ecuador Seminar team with Cotopaxi in the background. Photo: Mike Walter

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1

Mt. Baker: Grom & Team Summit

Posted by: Casey Grom, Chase Nelson | June 27, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'

RMI Guides Casey Grom and Chase Nelson and team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via the North Ridge. Casey checked-in from the summit reporting a great route, strong team, and beautiful weather with a steady breeze.

Congratulations!

An RMI climber ascending the North Ridge of Mt. Baker, WA. Photo: Eric Frank

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Expedition Stats

Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter
4/12 - 4/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,400'
Everest Base Camp - Island Peak
3/18 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit / Island Peak - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/18 - 4/7/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Mount Everest Base Camp Trek
3/21 - 4/12/2015
Everest Base Camp - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/2 - 5/12/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/9 - 5/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - 12,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
5/11 - 5/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/14 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/13 - 5/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/15 - 5/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - 13,200'
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/17 - 5/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine
5/8 - 5/18/2015
The Munchkin - Summit / The Throne - Lost Marsupial - Summit / Big Arapiles - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/20 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/21 - 5/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/22 - 5/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition
5/14 - 5/24/2015
Radio Control Tower - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/24 - 5/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/28 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
5/27 - 5/31/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
5/29 - 6/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/5 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/12 - 6/2/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir
5/31 - 6/5/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/3 - 6/6/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/7/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/5 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/4 - 6/8/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/6 - 6/9/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/19 - 6/7/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/5 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/7 - 6/10/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/8 - 6/11/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/9 - 6/12/2015
Mt. Rainier - 14,410'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/10 - 6/13/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/14/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/11 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/12 - 6/15/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/16/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/12 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/13 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/14 - 6/17/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/15 - 6/18/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/14 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/16 - 6/19/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/17 - 6/20/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/18 - 6/21/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
5/26 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Mt. McKinley Upper West Rib Expedition
5/28 - 6/18/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/22/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Summit Climb
6/19 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/20 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/21 - 6/24/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/22 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons
6/20 - 6/25/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/2 - 6/21/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/23 - 6/26/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/24 - 6/27/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/22 - 6/23/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge
6/22 - 6/27/2015
Forbidden Peak - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/26 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,300'
Five Day Summit Climb
6/25 - 6/29/2015
Mt. Rainier - 11,400'
Four Day Summit Climb
6/27 - 6/30/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/28 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz
6/26 - 7/1/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/29 - 7/2/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Five Day Emmons Climb
6/29 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
6/30 - 7/3/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit
Mt. Baker - North Ridge
6/26 - 6/28/2015
Mt. Baker - Summit
Mount McKinley Expedition
6/9 - 6/28/2015
Mt. McKinley - Summit
Four Day Summit Climb
7/1 - 7/4/2015
Mt. Rainier - Summit

Recent Images

  • An RMI team leaving Denali's 11K Camp, descending to Base Camp. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Climbing Nevados Urus in the Ishinca Valley, Peru. Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • Tocllaraju from Nevados Urus summit. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mt. Foraker from Mt. McKinley's 14,200' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection
  • An art vendor at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • A produce stall at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Locals perusing stalls at the Otavalo Market in Ecuador. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The view from the summit of Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers on the top of Motorcyle Hill at 11,600 ft on Mt. McKinley.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climbers approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Seth Waterfall
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Fuya Fuya with Cayambe in the distance. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending a 3rd class ridge on Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Cayambe as seen from the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Fuya Fuya. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The East and West Ridges of Forbidden Peak as seen from Sharkfin Tower in the North Cascades, WA. Photo: Kristina Weller
  • 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, AK with Kahiltna Dome in the distance. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI July 3rd Four Day Summit Climb team enroute to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • Sunrise on the Upper Mountain of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Win Whittaker
  • An RMI team building walls at high camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team ascending Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The RMI Ecuador Volcanoes team on the summit of Rucu Pichincha. Photo: Mike Walter
  • Stormy conditions at 11,200 ft Camp on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI Collection
  • Climber ascending the Autobahn on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: Lindsay Mann
  • An RMI Team at Base Camp in the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos
  • Mike Walter and Team checking out the Equator. Photo: Mike Walter
  • The Peru Seminar team before leaving Huaraz. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos