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RMI Expeditions Blog

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Storm Preparation at 14K Camp

Thursday, June 14th - 4:36 pm PT

We aren’t getting restless yet! We had a beautiful but gusty morning at camp that allowed us to improve our storm walls and batten down the hatches. The summit has been displaying quite the cap over it with long tails indicating the strong winds up high on top of the frigid temperatures. The forecast has finally confirmed that beginning tomorrow and through the weekend will bring heavy snow. We are going to catch the tail of a tropical surge coming off the Pacific, some words to describe it have been a cyclone or Pineapple Express. We will keep you updated on the snowfall amounts! Yesterday, we had a greeting party to welcome Mike King’s team at 14 Camp. We are glad to have some additional company as we wait out this storm. Thanks for the blog comments from our family and friends, keep them coming!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I should read my voice recognition typo’s before I send. That first line was supposed to have read:


Posted by: Liuise (again) on 6/15/2018 at 7:29 pm

You are also amazing!!
It seemed that everything was going so smoothly at first but it is these days of enduring this storm that will probably the story that gets told a lot. Too bad you can’t package the cold and bring it back with you to Las Vegas, huh Marc! We’re cheering you on from down here in the Rockies!

Posted by: Louise on 6/15/2018 at 7:26 pm

Mt. Rainier: Dale & Team Summit Via the Kautz Route

At 12:36 pm RMI Guide Christina Dale radioed from the Mt. Rainier summit.  Her team reached the summit via the Kautz Glacier during their six-day seminar.  The team will check in from their high camp and descend the rest of the way off the mountain tomorrow.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Good job team! Descend safely today and enjoy yourselves when you are done. Way to go Reiss!

Posted by: Alexis Walter on 6/15/2018 at 12:13 pm

Mt. Rainier: RMI Teams Summit!

On a calm and cold morning, RMI Guides Eric Frank and Andy Bond led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier.  They are above the clouds enjoying the sun on their descent.
Congratulations to today’s summit climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all! Quite an accomplishment.

Posted by: Ann Hernick on 6/15/2018 at 10:50 am

This message is from the “other Stephanie Renner”. I’m so happy for Chris and Andy Renner!  What an accomplishment!

Posted by: Stephanie Renner on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias & Team Climb the Munchkin and Middle Troll

Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 12:04 AM PT

Good evening again from the little Swiss! Another day, another summit! Or summits I should say… the group split and the 2 rope teams headed in opposite directions, towards the east and west ends of the upper Pika Glacier. On one side, a team surmounted the Munchkin. On the other, the South Face of the Middle Troll, a towering rock formation that, with its splitter granite cracks and balancing boulders, provides delicate yet rewarding climbing and the most radical of the views. The weather has been perfect, and we’re now going to bed tired, but accomplished and with a full stomach after a quite good pesto pasta dinner!

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & Chase Nelson

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

It is so nice that all of you return back safely.

Posted by: Xu Guoliang on 6/14/2018 at 7:51 pm

Denali Expedition: King & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 10:53 PM PT

With a forecast that hasn’t been stellar, the guides woke at 2:30 AM only to see strong winds above. We continued to check for high winds until 6 am, needing to make a decision on whether to move camp or burn another weather day, we opted to pack up. Hoping for the sun to calm the wind we started out at 9 am through boot high snow, calf high snow, knee high snow and you guessed it thigh high snow. We made good time without any congestion on the route, but it was not an easy day. Once we picked up our cache at 12,500’ we slogged up towards Windy Corner. Packs were heavy, sleds didn’t help and the loose drifted in snow made for a tired team. We got chased around Windy Corner by a storm then promptly walked into a basin where the wind had stopped and we were quickly to hot. Today’s lesson was, “learn to be comfortable, being uncomfortable”. Freeze or fry is all you can expect up here, ideal doesn’t exist. We will take a well deserved rest day tomorrow and maybe for the next week if the projected Pineapple Express weather front dumps 9 feet of snow. 

Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Diana King here, Mike’s Mom. We to enjoy keeping up wit the Team from Atlanta. Wish he could get home more often.

Posted by: Diana King on 6/15/2018 at 2:09 pm

Sending some positive weather vibes your way!! Hope you, Cole and the rest of the team are having an awesome adventure!!


Posted by: Sharon Del Vecchio on 6/14/2018 at 5:17 pm

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT

Today we had another great breakfast. Then the crew geared up for a climb up towards the fixed ropes. We have had more than our share of good rest in the past few days. We needed to move some blood and keep our fitness we have gained on this trip. From the forecast we are seeing it looks like we could have a few more days of poor weather.  We hope to take another climb for fitness tomorrow and be ready for a break in the weather.  Fingers crossed!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hey you guys !
Time for games of red light / green light, follow the leader, and good old Tag “your it”!!!
Maybe do timed “races”...?

Just be careful up there.

Cheering you on from below!
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/14/2018 at 11:38 am

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 8:54 PM PT

The mountain weather was kind to us today. After a hearty breakfast at the Roadhouse in Talkeetna, we made our way to the airstrip where K2 Aviation told us we were good to fly. We hopped into our climbing clothes, did our last minute list checks, and got into the planes.
After a phenomenal 45 minute flight over the tundra and into the Alaska Range, we landed on the snow runway that is Kahiltna Base Camp.
We spent the day taking in the sights, practicing crevasse rescue skills, and preparing for our long, heavy slog to our next camp at 7,800’.
Our plan is to wake up super early and be traveling across the Kahiltna Glacier while all of the snow bridges are very frozen. We also like to travel at night to avoid baking in the heat of the day as all of the white, snowy surfaces reflect sun back up at us. We either freeze or fry in the mountains and the 24 hours of daylight allow us to travel safely whenever we choose based on the temperature.

RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looks like beautiful weather! Wishing you all a safe and amazing climb, especially you Craig Clark!

Posted by: Carol clark on 6/14/2018 at 8:29 am

Hello Mike, I’m looking forward to following this team up to the summit and back. It was a pleasure climbing with Rusty, Josh and David on Mt Rainier in 2015. I know that they are in good hands on this trip.

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/14/2018 at 5:15 am

Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:59 AM PT

Our Denali Expedition Team is assembled in Talkeetna and ready to climb! After the last hectic few days of travel and packing, we are loaded in the plane and ready to be on our way to the mountain. We are looking forward to the adventure and challenge we are facing. Wish us luck!!!

RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan and Gloria Roe

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just heard from Keith.  Fire has been contained and evac has been lifted.
We are all headed out for our helicopter tour!  Hope everyone is doing well.  Love and hugs!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/15/2018 at 12:48 pm

Hey Glo! So sorry about the blocking situation. I love and admire you and I wish your team safe adventures. What a great weather day to start out.

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/13/2018 at 11:34 pm

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 9:56 PM PT

Today was another windy and snowy day here at 14,000’ Camp. After a late breakfast, despite the snow, the team worked together to make an igloo to improve the comfort of the bathroom experience given the current conditions. It’s little projects like these around camp that help down days go by. After a few hours of resting back in our tents the sun made an evening appearance that allowed us to stretch our legs around camp and clear out some of the snow again. The skiers on the mountain have been taking advantage of the evening clearings by enjoying the powder turns to be had just above camp. We’ve enjoyed standing out in the sun watching them ski back to camp. Unfortunately, the outlook for the forecast took a big swing this morning and instead of high pressure settling in for the weekend it now appears we are expecting a major snowstorm and continued high winds through Saturday to stall our summit bid. The team is staying optimistic however, given we may be at 14 camp for a few more days. Tomorrow’s another day and a forecast is only a forecast!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt Hill, hang in there! We are planning a full reception at the Blanford Rec Center when you get back. There may even be a famous rapper from L.A. there to sing with bubbles.

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/13/2018 at 1:20 pm

Really glad to hear of your resourcefulness ! I’m sure your igloo is much bigger than the on David made with his siblings in the front yard long ago..
Be warm and happy !
Stay strong.
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/13/2018 at 9:12 am

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Enjoy Another Great Day of Climbing

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 8:15 PM PT

Good evening from the Pika! We’re back from another great day of climbing in Little Swiss. Today we took advantage of the cold temperatures, and climbed a route up “The Witch’s Hat”, the southernmost formation of the cirque of mountains around our Base camp. Several pitches of steep snow, ice and mixed climbing brought the team to a narrow summit where we enjoyed a well deserved rest to our calves after the endless front pointing with our crampons. All accomplished by another objective tackled in this program, we’re about to enjoy a burrito dinner at camp.

Good evening everyone!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Please tell Christina be careful and we love her so much.  Christina’s Dad and Mom

Posted by: Guoliang Xu on 6/14/2018 at 12:06 am

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