Entries By elias de andres martos

Peru Seminar: Elias & Team at Tocllaraju’s High Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 09, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,380'

Good afternoon, this is the climbing team in Peru. Elias calling here. We have made it to high camp on Tocllaraju and we are perched at 5,100m right on the edge of the glacier. A sense of accomplishment that everybody has right now. It’s indescribable as we are in one of the most beautiful places that we have seen so far on this trip. We are surrounded by a huge cirque of 5,000 and 6,000-meter peaks. Tonight we are going to get ready to climb Tocllaraju, the last and most challenging objective of our seminar.  Everybody is doing really well and we are having right now really good weather. Everything is on schedule and we will keep you posted tomorrow hopefully from the summit, sometime in the early morning. Right now it’s 4 o’clock in the afternoon local time in Peru. We are brewing some water and cooking some dinner. That’s pretty much it for now. We will hope to, like I said, call tomorrow from the summit and wrap up this amazing expedition. That’s all for now. Good evening.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calling from Tocllaraju's High Camp.

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Summit Ishinca!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 07, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 18,143'

Hello, good morning. This is the Peru climbing team calling from the summit of Ishinca, 5,530 meters. It’s 9:45 a.m. local time. I’m going to let you know how the crew is doing… [Team’s happy cheers!] I hope that was a good enough sign. We had a heck of a climb this morning. The team crushed it. We are having a really good day. We’ve had some easy weather the last couple of days but this morning from sunrise to right now, nothing but blue skies. The views from up here are astonishing, and we’ll let you know when you see the pictures. We will keep you posted of our schedule. Tomorrow we are going to take a rest day and we’ll see what the next couple days bring us as we wrap up the program. We call you back and I hope everybody is doing well at home. That’s it for now.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


Elias de Andres Martos calls in from the Inshinca summit!

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Peru Seminar: Elias & Team Ready to Climb Ishinca

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 06, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Hello everyone, this is Elias, Robby and the team in the Ishinca Valley. We are getting ready to go to bed as we are going to climb Ishinca tonight. It is 7:30 in the evening here. Today we spent the day doing some training at the glacier of the Ishinca Peak. We cached some gear up there and then tomorrow we should be having another awesome climbing day on this astonishing peak called Ishinca.  Hopefully, we will get a signal from the summit and we will call from there in about half a day or so. Hope all is well back home and we’ll keep you posted.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Ishinca Basecamp.

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Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Summit Navado Urus

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 04, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 17,800'

Friday, July 4, 2014 - 9:43 AM PT

Hello from the summit of Nevado Urus at 5,497 meters! This is Elias and the crew, we are on top and enjoying the views of the Cordillera Blanca. We had a nice day and are enjoying our time up here. Everybody’s doing well and we will be checking in tomorrow on our rest day. We are blown away by the lakes and the glaciers and the summit we are seeing. Are we guys? (team cheering).  I don’t know if you heard them but they were cheering.  That’s all for now, we’ll be checking in later. Bye.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in from the summit of Nevado Urus.

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Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos and Team Train and Prepare

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos | July 04, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,270'

Thursday, July 3, 2014 - 7:09 PM PT

Hello again, this Elias and the Ishinca Valley seminar. We’re having a good time here during our second day at base camp. After our arrival yesterday we left a dispatch but didn’t know if the call went through, or at least part of it. Today we’re checking in letting you know we had a great day of training. We are going to bed right now getting ready for tomorrow’s climb of Navado Urus, a 5,400m (17,800’) peak. Everybody’s doing well, enjoying ourselves up here. We will be checking tomorrow again with hopefully some good news from the summit. Hope all is well at home and we’ll let you know of our progress tomorrow.

Good bye for now.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in after a day of training with the Peru Seminar team.

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Peru Seminar: de Andres Martos & Team arrive at Base Camp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 03, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 14,400'

Hello this is Elias, Robby & The Ishinca Valley team for the Peru Seminar,

We are established at our Base Camp here in the Ishinca Valley at 14,400’.  Everybody made it OK here to Base Camp. We had a nice day hiking through beautiful landscape that allowed us to see some our future objectives.  Right now we are retiring to bed after great day of hard work.

We will check in again soon!

The Peru Seminar team's knot session at the Ishinca Valley Base camp. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos


Elias and The Peru Seminar Team checking in from the Ishinca Valley

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Peru Seminar: Team Heads for the Mountains

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

Good morning from Club Andino Hotel in Huaraz!

Well, here we are, loading the bus and onto the trailhead. A 1 1/2 hour drive and a 4 to 5 hour hike await for us today. In our minds, the Ishinca Valley Base Camp. Everybody is doing well, the minor headaches from arriving to Huaraz (10,000ft) are gone, and excietment is palpable in everyone.
We’ll be checking again from our tents the next time. Best regards from Huaraz.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The team loading the bus in Huaraz, getting ready to head to the trailhead for the Ishinca Valley, Peru.  Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Peru Seminar - Elias & Team Enjoy Acclimating Hike and are Ready for Basecamp

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru
Elevation: 10,000'

Buenas tardes from Huaraz!

What a day we had! We were greeted by a sunny morning in Huaraz, with excellent views of the Huascaran and Copa mountains right from our hotel. After breakfast, we headed without hesitation to the “Laguna Churup” trailhead for a morning stroll (which by the way, felt really good after two days of flying and riding a bus.) It was the perfect acclimatization hike, since we were taken from 0’ to 10,000’ by a bus, so exercising a bit at this elevation we found very beneficial. From the trailhead at 13,000’ we hiked a good 2 1/2 hours towards this glacial lake at around 14,400’ (oddly enough, similar height of Mount Rainier) and we all got a better chance to start getting to know each other a bit better. Governed by “Nevado Churup”, a small but steep peak on the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca, the turquoise of its waters, inspired the better picture moments of the day. After a short snack, we began our descent to the trailhead. Once back in town, we run the logistics of buying some extra snack food, a couple gear items and final arrangements with our outfitter to hit the trail towards Ishinca Valley tomorrow at 8am sharp.

Our next dispatch will be from Base Camp and from our satphone. Best regards to everyone back home!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

June 30, 2014, RMI Peru Seminar team. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos Laguna Churup hike on the RMI Peru Seminar. Photo: Elias de Andres Martos

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Peru Seminar: Team Arrives in Lima

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young | July 01, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Peru

Hola desde Huaraz!

Greetings from the Peruvian Switzerland, where the team has just arrived!!! After everyone’s flights made it timely around midnight yesterday in Lima, we all met for breakfast this morning. Shortly after a formal meeting and introductions of team members and the program, we all, filled with excitement, loaded the bus with climbing duffle bags and got on the road.

We made it to our hotel “Club Andino” right on time for dinner and to meet our outfiter Peter and local guide Carlos, who will accompany us in our Ishinca Valley adventure. We’re moving to a well deserved night of sleep as we speak… lots of miles in the last 48h for everyone!

Tomorrow we have a short hike planned to “Laguna Churup” in the morning to start acclimatization and some logistic arrangements in the afternoon. We will be checking in again at the end of the day.

Best regards from Peru,

RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos, Robby Young & Team

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Mt. Rainier: Two RMI Teams on the Summit June 11th!

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Mark Falender | June 11, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI’s Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Elias de Andres Martos and Mark Falender reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:25 am today.  Elias reported really good conditions and no wind.  The sky is clear and it’s a beautiful day.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise.  We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

June 11th Team Ascending the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Photo: Elias deAndres Martos The June 11th Team on the Summit. Photo: Elias deAndres Martos
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