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Entries By elias de andres martos

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb team Reaches the Top!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Elias deAndres Martos and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Elias reported clear skies with 40 mph winds, so their stay on the top was brief. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to today’s team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations!!! Can’t wait for my turn next week!!

Posted by: natalie french on 5/14/2018 at 4:02 am

Congratulations on your ascent. Best wishes for your return.

Posted by: Adams Wofford on 5/13/2018 at 5:36 am

Alaska: Elias & Team Successfully Climb Moose’s Tooth

And we flew out!
We got in a day early, and flew out a day early too, as to secure our exit off the glacier with the great weather we had: the runway at the Root Canal Glacier is no major airport where to secure a flight under the action of the elements.

The trip ran very smoothly, and we’re happy to have tackled this ultra classic line, “Ham and Eggs” up the Moose’s Tooth, which is without a doubt, a haunting peak in the Alaska Range.

Vanessa and Taylor trained the necessary technical skills not only to overcome the difficulties of the route, but to shine for the hours on end that climbing 3,000ft of steep ice, snow and mixed terrain entails in the remoteness of this environment. Now the team has parted ways, and we feel proud and accomplished.

Regards from Anchorage!

RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos

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Alaska: Elias & Team Back Down to Camp

Good afternoon from the Root Canal Glacier! We just descended from a successful, safe and adventurous climb up the Ham & Eggs Route on Moose’s Tooth. We left yesterday at 6am, with great weather and enthusiasm. The route started very well, in great condition. The upper half, though, was bullet proof ice, which slowed our progress a bit. But we managed to maintain our calfs alive pitch after pitch of relentless intermediate angle blue alpine ice. After finishing, we stuck to our plan of spending the night at the col; perched at 10,000ft, on the exposed and corniced saddle that greets the few mortals who venture up this, one of the most impressive granite massifs of the Alaska Range. After a true alpine bivi, with our ropes as sleeping pads for the bottom half of our bodies, a two-person tent for three, and a belay to go to the bathroom, we woke up to questionable weather this morning, and so, we started our descent; some 16 rappels back down to the glacier. Now we’re back to our fresh vegetables, steak and beverages of choice at our camp. Our next report will be after we fly out from Talkeetna.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Alaska: Elias & Team Fly Onto the Root Canal Glacier

Greetings from The Root Canal Glacier! We were able to fly in yesterday, a day ahead of schedule thanks to our fantastic air taxi, K2, who had our logistics all planned upon our arrival in Talkeetna. We dug our camp right before the night fell, and enjoyed our first Alaskan dinner on the glacier. Today we dragged our feet and enjoyed the sunrise in our tent. After breakfast, we decided to go for a few pitches of the route, as to build team communications and to warm up for the big push. Now, we’ll just take the best day that the weather throws at us; the Moose’s Tooth awaits!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Super stoked to read the blog. My wife is fearless. I’m so proud of your accomplishment Vanessa and your first bivi! Mick and I can’t wait for the photos and the story! Love Mickey and Brett.

Posted by: Brett Calta on 4/12/2018 at 10:57 am

Impressive journal entry detailing your activities. Thinking of you all. Stay safe and so proud of you all, challenging yourselves and living the life!

Posted by: Lori Briggs on 4/12/2018 at 5:59 am

Gokyo Trek: Elias & Team Complete Trek, Return to Kathmandu


We made it back to Kathmandu. Our descent from Khumjung went well, and we decided to expedite it, as the weather forecast looked not the most favorable, and wanted to have an extra day to secure flying out of the mountains without issues. Upon arrival to Lukla, the only storm of the entire trip developed, but we were lucky to get wet for only the last 30min of an almost 2 week hike… not bad! But we flew out yesterday, and were able to farewell the Himalaya from the air, as the skies were still relatively sunny by mid morning.

Tired but accomplished, we left the Khumbu with incredible images in the memory, miles in the legs and new friends in the hearts. Our Sherpa and porter crew made it possible for a great trip through this fantastic and mystic mountainous area of the world. All is good now in the city as we await for our flights back home tomorrow.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Gokyo Trek: Elias & Team Visit Khumjung Monastery

Today we continued to descend the Gokyo Valley towards Khumjung, “The Green Village”, which, with its twin city, Kunde, hosts the largest population of Sherpa people in the Khumbu. Sightings of the smaller, yet impresive Ama Dablam, Tamserku and Kantega peaks reminded us we were back to the proximity of the lower lands where we started ten days ago.
Upon arrival to Khumjung, we visited its monastery, which believe it or not, conserves a scalp of the Yeti!!! We saw it ourselves. We continued to circumnavigate the perimeter of the two villages following long mani stone walls (fence like dwellings made with flat slate stones engraved with prayers and mantras) which, along with the mist and the domesticated yet majestic yaks, delivered a great deal of Himalayan mysticism.
We’re now in bed, and bound to Lukla to finish the trek.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

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Gokyo Trek: Elias & Team Begin Their Descent

Today we descended from Gokyo with the sense of accomplishment of having reached the highlights and high points of our trek. As we descended, only the quiet Turquoise Goddess (Cho Oyu) continued to peer above.  The cold temperatures of the late afternoon brought the misty fog to surround us as we made the last turns on the trail into Dhole. The caravans of yaks now substituted those of porters, the tea houses became more hospitable, and the air thicker. We’re headed now into the lower Khumbu.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Let’s go gang, Marie-Sarah and Frank :)

Posted by: Audrey-eve on 10/26/2017 at 7:11 pm

Gokyo Trek: Elias & Team Trek to Cho Oyu Base Camp

Good afternoon from Gokyo.

What a day we had! We woke up early to cloudy skies, which made us doubtful of the views we might get on our hike. But as we started gaining elevation and covering the distance between our lodge by the lake, and Cho Oyu Base Camp, we punched through the layer that was coveting the valley. The Himalayan giants we saw from the distance yesterday, towered above us today, and walking along the lateral moraine of the Ngozumba Glacier (the longest in the area) was really something. The feeling of being so insignificant overwhelmed us as much as the beauty we were discovering. We did reach the vicinity of what has been Cho Oyu’s Base Camp on the south side for the less than half a dozen expeditions that have dared to attempt this impressive face. After lunch and pictures, we turned back penetrating into the cloud layer that still was covering the valley bellow. We’re now enjoying dinner and getting ready for tomorrow’s stage.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos

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Gokyo Trek: Elias & Team Enjoy Views As They Trek to Gokyo

Namaste from Gokyo!

We have arrived to the namesake of our trip, a small Sherpa village a stone’s throw from Tibet. We had been out of touch the last couple days, on our way up from Thame to Renjo Pass, where we felt the remoteness of our whereabouts. Those two days were filled with great sightings of yak karkas (farms) Kongmas (a high altitud bird endemic of the area), but most definitely, the high peaks that reign above the area. We culminated this morning with the climb up Renjo La Pass, which provided jaw dropping views of Everest, Lhotse and Makalu; we had to take a 1.5h break at its 5,400m of elevation to sink it all in… we just couldn’t get enough! The feeling of the effort being so worth it took over the entire group.
We then descended towards the turquoise waters of Gokyo lake and made it into our lodge, where we’ll be for the next two nights. Tired but happy, we’re looking up valley towards another Himalayan giant, Cho Oyu, who’s base camp we’ll visit tomorrow. Now, it’s time to enjoy some dud chai (milk tea).

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
and team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Such a studly pic of the peaks in the background and the raven in the foreground!

Better keep an eye on those lunches or those winged critters will get them for sure.

Have fun.


Posted by: Art Muir on 10/26/2017 at 8:52 am

Gokyo Trek: Elias & Team Trek to Thame, Enjoy More Rustic Path

And the magic started to happen… Namaste from Thame.
We’ve left the main Everest trail, and started to encounter less people, enjoy a more rustic path, and an overall more authentic Himalayan experience (not that up to Namche wasn’t) But secluding ourselves to the Gokyo trek means enjoying a more authentic journey.

The day today was easy, but filled with senses stimulating opportunities; from the mist climbing towards us, to the juniper burning in the villages, or the mystic appearances of Buddhist prayer flags among the fog, the entire way presented multiple chances to amaze ourselves.

We climbed above tree line in order to visit the monastery upon arrival to Thame, a side half hour excursion with the excuse of taking pictures of the yaks that seemed to be grazing on the slopes. A pick up ball game with the young boy monks was a true highlight, and despite being at 13,000 feet, we managed to forget about breathing hard and just enjoyed the smiles.

We made it back to our lodge, owned by Ang Sherpa, who’s climbed Everest “only” 21 times. An honor to be in such a humble home tonight. We’re now awaiting our dinner, then it will be bed time and we’ll prepare for an early start tomorrow.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

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