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Entries By elias de andres martos


Mt. Shuksan: Elias & Team Summit Via the Fisher Chimneys Route

What a day!

From the full moon that illuminated our wake up, to the radiant sun that shone all day, we had an incredible climb up the Fisher Chimneys Route, to the Curtis Glacier, to the summit pyramid. Few attempt the entire route from Lake Ann, but determined climbers seemed to push this guide up the mountain, and the long feat, was executed with ease. We’re now crawling into our sleeping bags, after our camp dinner that tasted heavenly, since all we had all day was chocolates and bars…
The smoke from fires seems to be fading, and the ambiance from camp is rather idyllic.
We’ll hike out tomorrow with hopes of enjoying a hearty brunch in town.
Good evening from Lake Ann!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Mt. Rainier: August 23rd Team Reaches Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Elias deAndres Martos and JM Gorum reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.  Elias reported a beautiful and almost smoke free morning. The teams were spending some time on the summit enjoying the views before starting their descent.

Congratulations to today’s team!

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Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys: Elias and Team Summit!

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and Team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimney route early this morning. The team started their ascent from Lake Ann, scrambled to the base of the Chimneys and worked their way up the 3rd and 4th class rock, reaching the Sulphide Glacier moving up the steep snow, ice, and rock to reach the Summit Pyramid. The team is on their descent and will spend the night at Lake Ann this evening trekking out in the morning.

Congratulations Team!

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Mt. Rainier: High Winds Prevent Summit Climb Teams from Climbing

The Four Day Summit Climb August 8 - 11 left Camp Muir around 2:30 AM hoping the winds would decrease.  However, strong winds continued and the teams had to turn around and head back to Camp Muir.  The teams are descending early from Camp Muir this morning and we expect them at Paradise around 9:30 AM.

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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Return to Huaraz

Wednesday, July 4, 2018 - 9:14 AM PT

And we came out! We finished our trek and arrived into Cashapampa, where we unloaded donkeys, grabbed a drink and celebrated that once more, the mountains provided adventure, challenge and the unexpected. But more so, that we’re safe, back and ready to plan the next adventure.
Thanks for following!

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Spend One More Night in the Andes

Greetings from Icchi Coccha.

We’re on our way out, camped at our same first camp on the way in… Since we were heading out earlier, it took a bit more logistics to organize our “donkey train”. But these awesome guys made it happen for us and came with short notice. It’s amazing how things work in these places, with no written contract, just a verbal agreement, and a satphone call to a distant neighbor of our cellphone-less mule driver, human sense is the common norm. “Someone needs me, I must assist” they must think. And a two-day journey uphill becomes a sprint so they can bring us back to our commodities.

We left midday instead of early morning and decided to keep soaking in the greatness of the Andes, since pushing it all the way out with our late departure, would have us arriving late. So, here we are, enjoying another great meal from our cook Emilio, breathing thicker air, and witnessing the mountains getting bigger above us, as we descend.

We look forward to a shower and clean clothes tomorrow, to catch up on emails, to a meal in a restaurant and to a room with clean sheets… but surely, and despite the “no summit” this year, the magnitude and majesty of these peaks will always be greater than any mundane human desire.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Missing you very much Galina!

Posted by: Sanche&Jimbo; on 7/3/2018 at 5:52 am

Hi Kim,  Wow….What a beautiful well written update by Elias!  Hope the team enjoys this special time in the Andes! Look forward to hopefully hearing from you after you get settled in Huaraz!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: shel on 7/2/2018 at 6:37 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Return to Base Camp

Sunday, July 1, 2018 - 6:57 PM PT

Greetings from Alpamayo Base Camp. We descended today and arrived to our tents and good meals from our cook. We’re bummed we couldn’t climb, but it was the right decision. We’re headed to bed soon in hopes of hiking out tomorrow. We’ll check in when we’re in Huaraz.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

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Hi Aunt Kim!! Sorry you didn’t summit- but we need you safe and sound-glad y’all made it to base camp! 
We want to hear all about your adventure…
Xoxoxo Lucky & Sophia

Posted by: Lucky Superstar on 7/2/2018 at 4:38 am


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Descending from High Camp

Good evening from Alpamayo High Camp. We are sad to report that the SW face is not in safe condition to be climbed, and we’re not going to aim any higher. Everyone did a great job today and pushed through the upper glacier that is steep as usual, but we will descend tomorrow to Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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Hello Erik, Sorry to read that the rest of the climb was not safe, but safety is paramount. Hope you have a good trip down. We’ll be watching for the update later today.

Posted by: Tim and Carol Smith on 7/1/2018 at 1:36 pm

Aw, darn.  Really sorry to hear that, but no doubt it was the right thing to do.  Thanks Elías for keeping everyone safe.

Posted by: Art Muir on 7/1/2018 at 6:50 am


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Climb to Camp 1

Friday, June 29, 2018 - 5:00 PM PT

Good evening! Alpamayo crew reporting from Camp 1, a.k.a. moraine camp. We just had a nice dinner with the most beautiful alpenglow so far on this trip. Gaining elevation today to our camp was an easy task, and everyone did a great job managing the rocky and slabby terrain carved by the glacier that drops from the Alpamayo-Quitaraju Col. We ditched 20 minutes from our carry day… and it’s only a 2h journey! That’s a big chunk and these climbers are keeping these guides psyched. We’re ready to move to high camp tomorrow, should everyone have a good night tonight… So wish us sweet dreams, and stay tuned!

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kim, What a beautiful mountain! Only a rare few, like you!!, get to experience that. Keep up the good climbing and be safe.  xx Trish

Posted by: Trish on 6/30/2018 at 7:42 am

So excited to hear about your amazing adventure!  have a great day tomorrow!  mom and Larry

Posted by: Jane Lubow on 6/30/2018 at 4:39 am


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Enjoy Rest Day at Base Camp

Good evening from Alpamayo Base Camp. We had a good rest day, where we ate, slept and socialized, all while getting excited for tomorrow’s move to Camp 1. We’re also excited to see many teams come down, and know it’s not going to be too crowded up high… Fingers crossed!
Stay tuned for updates on our progress up high.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kimmer!! Your trip sounds fabulous so far and your guide Elias needs to become a novelist with his colorful blog descriptions!! We will be following your every move as you continue on your journey
Xoxoxo Sophia, Lora, Michael & Lucky

Posted by: Lucky Superstar on 6/29/2018 at 1:54 am

Hi Erik. We’ve been following your team’s progress and it looks good. Looks like you are all eating well. We hope you all make great progress to Camp 1 tomorrow.

Posted by: Tim and Carol Smith on 6/28/2018 at 10:09 pm

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