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Entries By elias de andres martos


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Descend to Base Camp

Hola! We are back at base camp safe and sound, tired but happy. A frigid, clear dawn kept us in our tents a bit longer this morning. With the first rays of sun peeking over the southwest face of Alpamayo, we knew our descent had to happen. We needed to be off the glacier before any ascending climbers reached the bergschrund over the col, otherwise we would be stuck waiting for the bottleneck to clear. We packed, and started our descent. An uneventful journey brought us to the warmth of the meadow where our cook Raúl was waiting for us with lunch ready to eat. After a couple nights of freeze dried food at our high camp; sweet potato fries, quinoa soup and a local dish “causa;” never tasted so good! Even at 14,000’. We spent the afternoon packing for tomorrow’s departure towards town, and finished the day with a jump into the river for some needed hygiene (Yeap, these guys are classy, even in the mountains!). Our next post will be tomorrow from our hotel in Huaraz.

Best regards,
Elías and team.

Hi Bob,  these blogs are THRILLING!

Posted by: Pat Pritz on 7/22/2016 at 5:51 am

I love and miss you Daddy.  Can’t wait to see you soon.

Posted by: Kate Stainton on 7/21/2016 at 9:27 pm


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Summit!

Original Post | July 20, 2016 - 11:38 a.m. PDT

Hello! This is Elias and the Alpamayo team we are on top! A great crew - some excitement out there. We got to the top here in four hours and a half. We keep beating the time every year! So, the RMI Alpamayo Climb is getting better and better every year! Peter, I, and the guys here are pretty psyched. We’re going to enjoy the views a little longer and then start our descent. We’ll give you a shout later on tonight from camp. We will head for base camp tomorrow. That’s it for now!

Update | July 20, 2016 - 3:16 p.m. PDT

And we did it! Everybody reached the summit of Alpamayo today. We were on the fence about climbing and almost didn’t leave camp. Starting around 11:00 p.m., we experienced unusually strong winds which lasted pretty much all night and all morning. We dragged our feet, and decided to give it a go after a delayed breakfast. With no one on the wall, we could have the luxury of climbing this surreal face without headlamps.

With better conditions than usual, the plethora of of nevé provided pure joy on our steep upward progression. By 19,000’, crystal ice demanded more focus and conscious delivery of every swing with our ice tools. With the incredible training and preparation by the team, we reached the airy summit a mere four and a half hour after departure. We celebrated on the summit and started our descent. Eight 60 meter rappels brought us to the overhanging bergschrund and deposited us back on the glacier, a stones throw to our tents.

Now we’re enjoying dinner at our high camp. Our two porters, Leoncio and Miguel, greeted with a huge smile and bows of soup. We climb hard, and we climb in style. We’ll be checking in from Base Camp tomorrow!


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team


Elias de Andres Martos & Team on Summit of Alpamayo July 20, 2016

Awesome work guys.  Way to set an impossible bar for next year’s group!

Posted by: Brian P on 7/21/2016 at 9:05 pm

Phenomenal job everyone - well done!!!!!!

Posted by: John Horgan on 7/20/2016 at 4:42 pm


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Reach High Camp

Buenas tardes from High Camp of Alpamayo! We arrived one hour ago and are currently resting and making water and dinner. The word out is that we might go for it tonight! Everyone did a terrific job getting to here, and this year is no joke, as the bergschrund to gain the col (to then drop to the northside of the mountain) is as broken and steep as l have ever seen it. Climbing 200 meters of steep, broken glacial ice with heavy packs at 17,000 feet is a task, but now that’s behind us. Now we have the joy of straight up 70-degree ice, on one of the most beautiful runnels in the world, with no packs, lays ahead. It is beautiful up here, folks, we just can’t get enough.

Stay tuned,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Hi to all the expedition members, Martín is following and suporting Elias from Spain!!!!
Take care and enjoy!!!!!! good luck

Posted by: Martín de Andrés on 7/20/2016 at 12:36 pm

WOW!  You guys are killing it. Sounds like a strong group.
Staying close to my phone hoping David wins a Summit Call!!

Posted by: Katrina Stainton on 7/20/2016 at 10:53 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Carry to the Col

Good afternoon from Camp 1 again. We changed our plan just a touch, and instead of moving this morning, we did a carry to the Col. We are back to rest for the afternoon, as we continue to trigger our acclimatization process, and having lighten our loads will pay back with hopefully an earlier arrival to high camp tomorrow. We got eyes on the wall as we approached the Col this morning, and everyone got really excited, at the same time as they felt good for the ice climbing training over the last couple winters; the French Direct to Alpamayo is no joke!

Stay tuned for tomorrow’s progress,

RMI Guide Elías and Team.


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Make Good Time to Moraine Camp

Good afternoon from Camp 1, aka Moraine Camp. Rain this morning gave way to high clouds, and patches of sun encouraged us to not delay our move up. Even with heavier loads, we beat our time from our carry two days ago, and now we’re finding ourselves relaxing in our tents, with the vestibules pointing to the most astonishing views one can hope; Artesonraju, Paron, Paria, Alpamayo, Quitaraju,,, are only a few of the jagged peaks we have in near horizons. We’re excited and ready for our move to High Camp tomorrow.

Best regards,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Hike Before Some R&R at Base Camp

Good evening once again from Alpamayo Base Camp. All is well here. After a rest day, we’re all eager to start moving uphill for good. We spent the day with a short hike to Arhuaycoccha, a beautiful turquoise lake hanging 15 minutes above BC, and underneath the Pucajirca Group, just at 4,420m. We followed with a review of anchor transitions, and lunch and a nap took care of the afternoon… Being well rested is key for the demanding pitches ahead. We just had dinner, and the funny note was the competition trying to cheat the pulse ox meter (not much room to do so when all these four individuals are as fit as one can be).
That’s all for now, tomorrow we’ll be checking in from Moraine Camp on our move upwards.

Regards, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and tea


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Carry to Camp 1

Good evening from Alpamayo Base Camp. We had a productive day today, carrying a load to Camp 1 at 4900meters. We set a tent up and deposited half our kit. After that, we remained up there for a while, breathing the thin air and letting the body and lungs get a taste of what’s coming up. Some clouds and a drop in temps let us know it was time to head back down to base camp, and a light drizzle materialized around dinner time. Tomorrow we’re going to take a rest day here at base, as we are getting excited to get moving up higher soon.

That’s all for now,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

Hope everyone is acclimating and enjoying great views while you prep for the higher camps and the summit push!

Posted by: Laura on 7/16/2016 at 4:39 pm

We love you!  Enjoy your trip daddy.  We miss you but are doing well.

Love, Kate and Momo

Posted by: Kate Stainton on 7/16/2016 at 8:49 am


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Arrive in Base Camp

Greetings from Alpamayo Base Camp! Pretty uneventful day… aside from an incredible hike through beautiful country, fueled by outstanding food from our cook and blessed by perfect weather. Yes it was an uneventful day on the mountains today.
Quite a few teams are populating BC, some going, some going down. We’re planning on doing a carry up to C1 in the morning, and take it from there. Time to go to bed now,

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Trek Through the Santa Cruz Valley

Day two is behind us! It flew quick, marveled by the wonders of the lower Santa Cruz Valley, which is one of the prime trekking destinations in Peru by itself. We also flew quick, and bypassed the standard camp, gaining an hour for tomorrow’s arrival to Base Camp. Everybody is doing fantastic, and we’re currently enjoying an outstanding dinner at our dining tent (squash soup, trout and fruit cup is being served). We look forward to a good night of sleep here at Icchi Coccha camp and to tomorrow’s move to Base Camp.

RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.


Alpamayo: Elias & Team Check in After Acclimatization Hike

Greetings!
Today was a great day for the first day of our Alpamayo Expedition: stellar landscape on the acclimatization hike, for a stellar crew, on stellar weather. This third year of Alpamayo Expeditions for RMI looks very promising! We hiked up to 14,400’ to our traditional destination of Lake Churup, and we had incredible views of the range, the glacial lake and the mountain of the same name. We hiked back to town and had a team lunch before returning to our hotel for some packing and relaxing. We’re heading tomorrow to the trailhead. Everyone is doing great and is very excited.
We’ll be checking from the trail from now on!

Best,
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team

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