Entries By geoff schellens

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Pick Up 9,900’ Cache

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | June 06, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

June 5, 2014 - 11:57 pm PT

We slept in a bit this morning as light snow fell on camp. After a leisurely breakfast of bagels with bacon and cream cheese, we walked 30 minutes down to our cache at 9,900’.  After returning to 11K Camp, we rested before building snow walls around our tents.  Everyone is doing very well and excited to keep working up. With light snow still falling this evening, we are going to keep watching the weather and take it day by day.

Thanks for following along with us.

RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

An RMI team's 11K Camp on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

5

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 11,000’

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | June 05, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'

Today we packed up our camp at 7,600’ on Mt. McKinley and began climbing at 8:30 AM under perfectly blue skies. Our team was strong and did very well on the move, despite the hot temps once the sun was high.  11,000’ Camp is currently the size of a small town with all the climbing teams that flew on the same day that we did. After setting up our new camp folks enjoyed an afternoon nap before dinner and hot drinks. We are all happy to be here at 11 camp.

Thanks for following along with us -

The Upper West Rib Team

An RMI Team camped at 11,000 ft on Mt. McKinley, Alaska.  Photo: RMI collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

6

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Cache Gear at 9,900’

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | June 03, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

June 3, 2014 - 7:55 pm PT

Wow, it’s nearly dinnertime and the team finally has a few minutes to check in. We have had a busy day. Despite a slightly ominous forecast, we awoke this morning to clear skies and no wind. Things looked favorable for us to move some group food up to a higher site. We ate a leisurely breakfast of bagels with bacon and cream cheese before loading up on a four-hour walk up to the cache site.

This cycle of carrying gear up high, then returning back to a lower camp to sleep is crucial for our acclimatization. It exposes the body to a new altitude, but gives it time during the night to rest and recoup. We will be repeating this process with each of our higher camps.

RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib team

An RMI climbing team hauls sleds on Mt. McKinley. Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

3

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 7,600’

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | June 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 7,600'

June 2, 2014 - 9:56 pm PT

We woke up early this morning, broke camp and set off down the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  By 7:00 AM we turned to the north and began making our way up the main flow of the Kahiltna, snowshoeing through some of the towering mountains of the great Alaska range.  We arrived to the 7,600’ camp at the base of Ski Hill at 11:30 AM with a light wind helping to keep us cool during the heat of the day. The afternoon was spent snacking, drinking water, and napping. We just finished a delicious burrito dinner and are enjoying the views over a cup of hot cocoa. 

Good night everyone and thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

An RMI Team crossing the Kahiltna Glacier enjoying views of Mt. Hunter and Mt. Francis.  Photo: RMI Collection

On The Map

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

2

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Fly to Kahiltna Basecamp

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | June 01, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley

The clouds parted long enough for our team to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier today.  We have been packed and ready for this day and now we are ready to climb!

Once we are settled in at Kahiltna Base, we’ll check in again.

RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens

The Upper West Rib team just before boarding their flight onto the glacier. Photo: Geoff Schellens

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

2

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Waiting for a Break in the Weather

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | June 01, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

May 31, 2014 - 11:02 pm PT

Not a plane was buzzing this morning when we awoke to dark skies and a slight breeze here in Talkeetna. Today was our fly day, but we are waiting out a hefty storm that has hundreds of climbers waiting on both sides of the Alaska Range. We met at the K2 hangar to wrap up some last-minute packing with high hopes for hopping on a plane; alas, we stayed stuck on the green-side, in Talkeetna along with swarms of anxious climbers. We are all psyched for tomorrow’s potential - crouched and ready to jump on a plane at a moments notice. For now, we will continue to exercise our patience, a vital skill that we will need on the mountain.

RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

RMI's Ticket to the Kahiltna Glacier, K2 Aviation. Photo: Ben Liken

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

2

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Ready as soon as the Weather’s Ready

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens | May 30, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

May 30, 2014 - 7:43 pm PT

Hello from Talkeetna, Alaska! The Upper West Rib team arrived in Anchorage yesterday afternoon and shuttled north to Talkeetna, our launch site for the mountain. Right now, this sleepy little town is bursting at the seams with climbers waiting to fly onto the glacier. The skies are overcast and the planes have been grounded since early in the week. Everywhere you look, there are softshell clad people trying to pass the time. 

Our team was distracted from the constant refreshing of weather websites by plenty of prep work today. After meeting with the National Park Service for a general orientation, we rolled our sleeves up and got right to work. Eight hours later, our bags are packed and we will head to dinner to discuss the only thing on waiting climber’s minds… “when will the clouds break?”
For now all we can do is relax and know that we are prepared whenever that eventuality comes about.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Denali Upper West Rib team in Talkeetna. Photo: Eric Frank No flights leaving Talkeetna, AK, today. Photo: Eric Frank Upper West Rib team organizing gear in Talkeetna. Photo: Eric Frank

Sign Up For Mount McKinley 2014 Email Alerts

2

DHAULAGIRI: Team Returns to Base Camp and Wraps Up Expediton

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | May 06, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News

Hello Everybody,

This is the Dhaulagiri Climbing Team we are calling here from Base Camp.  We have to let you know that unfortunately there was no summit for us.  As we have said in recent blogs the weather has been pretty bad for us.  We have had a lot of snow and we had to turn around at the very last day.  We have a few member of the team at Camp 3 and had a decent chance at a summit push, but conditions were no good.

We are currently at Base Camp and will start to hike down tomorrow, and we should be back in Kathmandu in four or five days and we will try to write down details to wrap up our expedition.  We have worked very hard and have been the first the first team on the mountain and the one that got the highest.  It will be neat to see everybody follow in our steps all the time going up and down the mountain.  Like I said, we had a ton of snow breaking trail was very difficult and we made it as high as we could.  Other than that everybody is doing pretty well, and we are very satisfied with our work.  Again, we were a team going unsupported and did everything on our own. Getting to where we got with day in and out snowstorms dumping up to three to four feet of snow, the work wasn’t easy.  We are pretty proud of what we have done.

We want to thank everybody for their support given to us, and we hope everything is going well back home.  We will touch base from Kathmandu in a few days.

Thanks Everybody! Talk to you all soon!

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos


Dhaulagiri Team Checking In.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

3

Dhaulagiri: Team Checks in Before Summit Push

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | April 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News
Elevation: 15,584'

The Dhaulagiri team called the RMI Office this morning to check-in.  Here is a summary of our conversation:

First and foremost, everyone is healthy and in good spirits.  The weather forecast is calling for more of the same—gorgeous, clear mornings followed by afternoon snowstorms.  They are refusing to let the plethora of new snow dampen their spirits.  A new team has arrived at base camp and everyone is enjoying the new company.  The team is getting ready to head to bed for the night.  In the morning they will begin heading uphill to get into position for their summit attempt. 

The team sends their love to everyone following along!  They will keep us posted on their upward progress.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

5

DHAULAGIRI: Team Has Established Camp 2

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Garrett Stevens, Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren | April 28, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Guide News

Hello,

This is the Dhaulagiri Climbing Team and once again we wanted to apologize for the lack for the lack of communication, but as we said before we have been having a few problems with the satellite “sat” phone.  But, right now we can send a dispatch.

We have been discovering the worst weather that we have ever witnessed. This Himalayan peak is pretty much keeping us working really, really hard. We are getting snow storms every day. The only time we have not had afternoon storms have been when we have all day storms!  But, that hasn’t kept us from climbing.  The last two days we have been working very hard being the only team on the mountain breaking trail to establish Camp 2. In the next few days we are going to be looking at the route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 which is one of the hardest parts of the climb. If that is a go we’ll have a summit bid.

Like I said, we have been receiving anywhere from a foot to two feet of snow every other afternoon and it has made our job hard. A couple of other teams have arrived, but they are not as ambitious to work up high yet.  We are not going to quit until our plane leaves. We have a little bit less than 10 days here to make it happen. We have a really good weather forecast and will keep our fingers crossed that we are going to have a shot at it.

So if the sat phone keeps working for us we will keep you posted as much as we can. So please keep your fingers crossed for us.  This is Dhaulagiri and we hope you all take care. We hope to communicate good news soon!

RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos


Dhaulagiri Team checking in April 28th.

Sign Up For Guide News 2014 Email Alerts

6

Previous Page More Entries