Entries By pete van deventer

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams on Top!

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pete Van Deventer | July 22, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Both the Four and Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams tagged the top!  RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Pete Van Deventer reported a sleet/snow mix and moderate winds.  At 8:45 a.m. they radioed basecamp to say they are beginning their descent.

RMI climbers on the upper flanks of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Ed Viesturs

Mt. Rainier: July 15th Teams Summit

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Pete Van Deventer | July 15, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Peter Whittaker and the Four Day Summit Climb team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 5:20 am.  The team is making their descent back to Camp Muir and enjoying a light wind.  We look forward to seeing them in Ashford this afternoon.

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7:00 am.  Pete reports clear skies on the summit and 15 mph winds.  He says it is fairly warm and a really nice day to climb. The team is enjoying some time at Columbia Crest and will begin their descent to Camp Schurman around 8:00 am.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

Mt. Rainier as seen from Sunrise this morning.  Photo: Mt. Rainier Web Cam The path leaving the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver.  Photo: Brent Okita The Expeditions Skill Seminar - Emmons teams on the summit of Mt. Rainier July 15th.  Photo: Pete Van Deventer
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We ARE SO PROUD and HAPPY that you reached The Summit John! Can’t wait to see that photo!! Safe return during the descent!!! See you soon! Love, AM and Biscuit

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Posted by: Mary Ann and Carter Boicourt on 7/16/2014 at 5:02 am

Way to go Jimmie D.

This Rainier summit business is getting to be old hat to you.

Well done.

Art

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Posted by: Art Muir on 7/15/2014 at 7:42 pm


Mt. Rainier: Summit Teams and Emmons Seminar on Top!

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens, Pete Van Deventer | July 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Tyler Jones radioed at 7 am with his Four Day Summit Climb on their descent after reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier earlier this morning.  Tyler reported moderate winds and a cloud cap on the summit.  As the teams descended they were reaching the base of the clouds.  The second Four Day Summit Climb team led by Geoff Schellens was also descending with Tyler. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the crater rim around 7:30 am.  The team was going to spend to a few minutes on top before starting their descent.  They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain.

Congratulations to today’s teams!

Looking down on Camp Schurman from the Emmons Glacier Route on Mt. Rainier.  Photo: Mike Walter
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Fantastic! So proud of you. Gave a safe descent.

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Posted by: Lydia on 7/3/2014 at 1:20 pm

Congrats! So proud of you guys.

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Posted by: Ellen Seib on 7/2/2014 at 12:59 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb and Expeditions Skills Seminar - Kautz Updates

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Ben Liken, Robby Young | June 17, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from Camp Muir at 6:45 am.  The Four Day Summit Climb team was forced to turn around at Ingraham Flats due to deteriorating weather.  They experienced gusty winds, drifting snow and heavy precipitation.  Camp Muir had a small accumulation of snow throughout the morning.

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by Elias de Andres Martos checked in from their high camp.  The team was expecting to make their summit attempt today but we unable to do so due to the poor weather.  The team experienced a very stormy night with consistent winds.

The Four Day Summit climb will return to Rainier BaseCamp later today.  The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz will continue their training and spend another night on the mountain.  They will return tomorrow afternoon.

 


Mt. Rainier: June 13th - Update

Posted by: Tyler Reid, Pete Van Deventer, Sean Collon, Alex Barber, Christina von Mertens, Andrew Kiefer | June 13, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,600'

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Pete Van Deventer were turned at 12,600’ due to weather.  The team climbed into a cap and reported low visibility, cold temperatures, snow showers a couple of inches of accumulation and light to moderate winds.  The teams are en route Back to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon.

Congratulations to Today’s Teams.

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Will and Tim it was an honor to have attempted the summit of Rainier with you. Pete, I would follow your lead up any mountain my friend. You kept it… read more

Posted by: charles on 6/18/2014 at 6:57 am

Good try Ted and friends.  Weather can be the decider up on Rainier.  The Top of the Cleaver is still high, and it is the crux of the route you… read more

Posted by: Jim Daverman on 6/13/2014 at 3:28 pm


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Have Decision Day

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | June 03, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'

June 2, 2014 - 11:16 pm PT

With things looking up for us, we got up early and packed camp this morning. With full packs and a lot of excitement to be moving again, we headed once more up towards the head wall and the fixed lines. We were not by any means the only group with this idea though and a train formed pretty quickly. As we worked our way up the lines in traffic the wind started to pick up, at first just occasional gusts that swirled through the basin, then becoming steadier, stronger, and carrying snow with them. By the time we reached the col at 16,200’ conditions had deteriorated significantly. It was a frustrating decision, but this was the type of weather that was too much for us to continue on in, and we decided quickly to turn back down the fixed lines to 14,000’ camp, out of the winds.

Once camp was reset, we had a tough team meeting over dinner. We’ve invested a lot of time, energy, and sacrifice into this endeavor, both on the mountain and all of the preparation and training, but we’ve been here for a long time, and it’s time to think about heading down. Everyone agreed that tomorrow, we will pack camp again, but this time will turn our boots downhill and head for the airstrip, home, and families. The team has worked so hard, and come together so well, and it’s a disappointment for all, but with any luck we’ll be at the airstrip tomorrow, and fly in the evening or next morning.

Thanks for reading, and we’ll see everybody soon.

Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Ascending Mt. McKinley via the West Buttress above 14,000 ft.  Photo: RMI Collection

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Our hearts ache for you. We are so sorry that your trip is ending this way knowing how much you wanted to summit. Lowrys you will survive!

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Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 6/4/2014 at 4:00 am

Have a safe trip home. Just remember:
The Journey is for the Soul, The Summit is for the Ego.

We love you,
Lisa, Joe and Gabe

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Posted by: Lisa, Joe and Gabe on 6/3/2014 at 6:27 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Looking to Tomorrow

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | June 02, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, June 1, 2014 11:34 pm PT

The best laid plans are always subject to change. Our first view out of the tent this morning was of blue sky, but when we turned our gaze towards the summit, we found a large lenticular cloud spinning over the mountain, with jets of snow shooting up into the sky. Needless to say, we spent another day in camp. Our prospects look good for tomorrow, with a favorable forecast of high pressure for the next several days. We’ve said this before, and some are wondering how much longer we can wait; the team made the decision today that Tuesday would be our definitive up/down day.  On the plus side, a slew of independent climbers made the jump to 17,000’ today despite the winds, so that should alleviate some of the congestion tomorrow.

We redecorated our posh tent today with a sun painted in Gatorade, a hockey player’s face (looking towards the Stanley Cup), and the quote “we’re doin’ it”. Spirits are still high despite the waiting, and we have a lot of hope that tomorrow will deliver for us. For now: off to bed to rest up for the fixed lines and West Buttress tomorrow!

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

An RMI team's posh tent at 14,200' on Mt. McKinley, Alaska: Photo: Lindsay Mann

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Hey Team Lowry might do the line dancing yet! Keeping my fingers crossed for all of you. Go go go gang.

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Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 6/3/2014 at 3:23 am

Hoping Team Lowry had the opportunity to go up…can’t wait to read your next entry and hear the good news.

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Posted by: Nick Spanakis on 6/3/2014 at 3:16 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Hoping for a Move to 17K Tomorrow

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | June 01, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 31, 2014 - 11:23 pm PT

The weather slowly cleared over the course of today. We woke to heavy snowfall, but calm winds, and the snow slowly eased through the day, clearing enough by the time we headed to the tents this evening to show blue sky over the West Buttress. The anticipation and excitement in the cook tent this evening was obvious, as we do plan to try to make the next jump tomorrow, climbing to 17k camp tomorrow. If all goes well, the next few days will be big, and will go by in a whirlwind. We’ll keep you all updated on our progress, and wish us luck!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Marko..it’s only 3000 feet..get errr done brahh!

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Posted by: Remi on 6/2/2014 at 9:24 am

Good Luck Marko!  What an exciting adventure for all of you!

VIc

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Posted by: Vickie on 6/2/2014 at 9:16 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team in One More Weather Day

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 30, 2014 - 10:54 pm PT

Ground hog day of a sort here, though not really. We spent another day sitting, listening to what sounds like a freight train above us: the wind blowing over the Buttress.  Mid day though, the wind direction shifted, and 14 camp went from being a place of relative calm, to getting intermittent gusts of wind to 30 mph or so, enough to move a lot of snow around. At the same time the snowfall intensity increased, so that it finally feels like we are sitting in some real weather in Alaska. A number of skiers around camp took the opportunity to make some nice powder turns, making us all jealous. With all of that, we are still optimistic about our window in the next day or two, and so spirits are high. Once this system blows itself out, it will be off to the races for us, hopefully as soon as tomorrow. We’ll let you know how it goes!

Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Views from Mt. McKinley's 14,000' Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Wishing all of you great weather…it’s time to climb!

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Posted by: Nick Spanakis on 5/31/2014 at 1:50 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team and 14K Camp Life

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 29, 2014
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 29, 2014 - 7:22 pm PT

Today has been more of the same from the last few days: snow, some light winds, and evidence of strong winds up high. As the weather continues to stall groups here at 14K camp, more and more groups have arrived to join the community. When we arrived, 14K Camp resembled a tiny village of tents and snow walls, but sprawl has taken over and camp looks more like a city everyday. As the population grows, so does the sense of community, since everyone is dealing with the same problems. When they announce the weather over the radio at 8 pm, small clusters of climbers come together across camp to listen and discuss afterwards. As you walk through camp, the weather is on everyone’s tongue; what is it going to do tomorrow, when will the window come, and what is causing this pattern is discussed a hundred times a day. A small barter market of food, toilet paper, and entertainment has sprung up. It feels like a small emptiness opens every time a team runs out of days and has to head back downhill, but their space (both physical and psychological) is quickly filled by the arrival of a new group. All of this helps to keep us patient and sane as we wait. Tomorrow will likely be a continuation of this trend, but the awaited window does seem to be showing itself in the forecasts, so the end may be in sight!

Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, and Josh

Mt. McKinley's 14K Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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Nobody wants to contemplate having to go home but some of you will have commitments. If the weather changes for the better in a day or two, does the group… read more

Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 5/30/2014 at 3:46 am


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