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Entries By pete van deventer

July 7, 2015

Mountaineering Training | My Go-To Workout

There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible.  On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes.  On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door.

My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises.  Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals.  During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times.  This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid.  Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between.  This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well.  The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either. 

The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance.  I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:

  • 3 sets of 50 crunches
  • 3 sets of 20 pushups
  • and 3 sets of 20 dips

I always end this workout with the same series, something that we used to call a “super set” on the college ski team. It consists of:

  • 100 crunches (feet on the ground, curling my torso towards my knees, but not a full sit-up)
  • 50 sit-ups to the side (alternating sides)
  • 25 leg raises (some straight on, some to either side)
  • and 100 more crunches to finish

Having one piece of my routine that is exactly the same each time lets me develop a benchmark for how my core strength is feeling. 

While your go to workout doesn’t need to mirror this, try to develop a workout that has definitive goals.  If your time is pressed, a short series of intervals will be more beneficial for your fitness than a 30 minute easy jog, most of the time.  Having some goals allows you to be focused during the workout, even if it is just for a short period of time.  Your go-to workout can be any genre: cycling, running, swimming, or spinning are all good options depending on where you live and can do readily.  Remember to build up your strength over time; trying to jump right into a “super set” tomorrow if you haven’t been doing a lot of core strength is a recipe to get injured.  Good luck with your training, and stay motivated: it will pay you back in enjoyment many times over on your next climb!
Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions, guiding climbs on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad. He calls Aspen, CO home, where he also teaches avalanche courses and is a fully-certified ski instructor.

July 6, 2015

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: July 6th Update

The Mount Rainier Four-Day and Five-Day Summit Climbs reached the summit early this morning.  The teams reported winds and a small cap forming, as they started their descent the winds have calmed and it is a beautiful morning.

WOW !!!  A dream fulfilled!!  Next stop K2?  It was so good to hear your voice & know that you were safely down from the climb.  You are AMAZING!!!

Posted by: Momma B on 7/15/2015 at 9:00 am

Congrats Bob and Theo!  So totally impressed!

Posted by: Maureen on 7/6/2015 at 3:04 pm

July 1, 2015

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies, with warm temperatures and a light breeze.  The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am PST. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens made a sunset climb last night and reached the crater with 100% of their team.

All three teams will descend to Paradise today and return to Ashford to conclude their programs.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

That’s brilliant! Cameron, Connor, John and Patrick… Congratulations!! What an adventure. I can’t wait to hear the amazing tale.

Posted by: Debbie on 7/1/2015 at 4:39 pm

Congrats, Chuck and all the climbers!

Posted by: Ross on 7/1/2015 at 4:09 pm

June 23, 2015

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Teams Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:45 am. Brent reported good weather with 25 mph winds. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before beginning their descent at 7:45 am.

Woohoo! Can’t wait to hear all about it! What an adventure.

Posted by: Barb & Mark on 6/23/2015 at 12:01 pm

Yeah!!  I am so excited for the entire team, I can’t wait to see more photos.  AWESOME!!!  I am so proud of you Miki!!!!

Posted by: Christine on 6/23/2015 at 9:33 am

June 18, 2015

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: June 18th Update

Our Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Walter Hailes and Pete Van Deventer, were just reaching the summit at 7:10 a.m.  Walter reported winds of about 20mph, cool temperatures, and they were just below the clouds hanging right above the summit.  Both teams began their descent at 8:15 a.m.

Elias deAndres Martos and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team checked in and were at 12,600’ working their way to the summit.

Joseph…you never cease to amaze me!Love You, Mom

Posted by: Kathy Dougherty on 6/19/2015 at 7:33 am

June 13, 2015

Four Day Summit Climb

Mt. Rainier: June 13th Update

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb, led by Ty Reid and Pete Van Deventer, is currently on the summit.  The weather report from the summit is sunny skies and moderate/steady winds.  An update will be posted when the teams begin their descent.

Congratulations summit climbers!

Congratulations NYSCF team - JAMES TEAGUE, RICH RUNDLE, MARK MCCAULEY and DIETER EGLI !!!!!  and to think you had ALREADY peaked when you surpassed your fundraising goal and raised $26,565 for stem cell research!  YOU ROCK!  Now, come on down from those rocks and celebrate!  And, call home!  :-)  Love to all.  Pride in all.  Thanks, Guides, Ty and Pete.

Posted by: Jessie Teague on 6/13/2015 at 11:05 am

Way to go Stephanie and Pat!!

Posted by: Lilli Pietromonaco on 6/13/2015 at 8:37 am

June 2, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Conclude Their Expedition

June 2, 2015 - 6:56 pm PT

The last few days of a trip always fly by. The summit, descent, and celebration in town all came together over the course of three days. Our summit day was spectacular, with blue, sunny skies, little wind, and balmy (0 degrees F) temps. We got up with the sun the next morning, which felt considerably colder, and packed our bags to descend. We originally planned to go as far as 11,200’ Camp, picking up our cache at 14,000’ along the way, but when we walked into 11k at 4.30 in the afternoon, and with plenty of energy to spare, we decided to keep the momentum rolling, rig sleds, and head to 7,600’ camp. The few hours of fighting with our sleds downhill proved well worth it. We got to camp at 8:30, where RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank with their Upper West Rib team were super nice and had stoves boiling for us already. We set a hasty camp since we were only going to be there for a few hours, and went to bed. We had our only real alpine start of the trip, waking at 2.30 am. The walk out the lower Kahiltna was one of the highlights of the trip. High thin clouds reflected the light of a not yet risen sun, and the alpenglow on the surrounding peaks burned a brilliant red. A wind at our backs pushed us towards Base Camp. The scene kept our eyes drifting to the sky, and it was impossible not to enjoy the walk despite the heavy packs and sleds. By 7:30 we were at the airstrip, ready for the first flights of the day to Talkeetna. In no time the incredible pilots from K2 descended in two Otters, we loaded the planes, and we were in town, taking in the scents of grass, flowers, and trees for the first time in weeks. We showered off the smell of 18 days on the mountain, and set about filling our bellies with something that we hadn’t carried on our backs. We spent the afternoon drying gear and packing bags for our inevitable separation, and then had a final celebration dinner at the West Rib, a restaurant that is synonymous with Mt. McKinley climbers. Now, we are beginning to part ways. Some of our climbers have left for Anchorage and flights home, while others are staying in Alaska for a bit longer, albeit as tourists. Jet boat adventures, bicycle tours, and road trips to the North side of the park all lie in the future. The guides will amuse ourselves tomorrow with some time on a boat, dropping lines for Halibut, before we also head South to the Mt. Rainier climbing season. The group did a spectacular job on the mountain, climbing smoothly and safely, and we were rewarded with a truly fine summit and 100% of our group on the summit. The guides thank the whole team for their efforts, laughs, and incredible chemistry; it was a really memorable trip for us as well! Thanks to everyone for following along. Now its off to a boat, where someone else baits the hook for us and the fish can’t help but bite!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and Team.

Well done Renee!! Amazing achievement.

Posted by: Michelle T VEC on 6/3/2015 at 11:58 pm

Wow Renee!! Congratulations!

You are an example to us all!

Posted by: Kelly T on 6/3/2015 at 6:37 pm

May 31, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Making Good Progress on Their Descent After Summit

Sunday, May 31st 1:54pm PDT

This afternoon our team descended to 14,200 feet. Once evening hits, we will continue our descent to either the McKinley camp at 11,200’ or 7,800’.  If we stay on schedule and pending the weather, we will be at the airstrip and ready for our flight back to Talkeetna by tomorrow afternoon.

We will be home soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Go Naie Naie! Enjoy the final climb down the mountain with team PJR! So happy for you all. You truly are an inspiration Renee. Tell Jord to buy you a nice beer and enjoy a hot shower.
Thinking of you always you bobby dazzler.
Love ya,
Sarah xxx

Posted by: Sarah on 6/1/2015 at 9:28 pm

Wooohooo the final countdown is on team PJR!!!
You are such a champion Renee, can’t wait to see your smiling face back in Melbourne again :) Bet you can’t wait for that cold beer, hot shower and a warm bed for a well earned snooze !!! You really rock the world little one :) xxxx Love you a bit ;)

Posted by: Paul on 6/1/2015 at 9:03 pm

May 30, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

Update Saturday, May 30th 8:30 pm PDT

Summit day! We decided to do something a bit unorthodox and wake up and leave early without the sunshine. Usually it would make for a really cold couple of hours, but the temperatures have been unseasonably balmy. It had the added advantage of getting us out ahead of several other teams that were heading for the summit also. The deviation worked out perfectly and we had a nice warm morning to walk, with no other teams in front of us. The skies stayed crystal blue all day, and 6 1/2 hours or so later, we were standing on the highest thing around! We had a good half hour on the summit, snapping pictures and taking it all in, before chilly breeze convinced us to head back for camp. We are back with plenty of time to brew up dinner and watch the later teams on their descent. It was a special day and everyone’s really excited. It was especially great to have the whole team make it to the top. Tomorrow we turn our sights downhill and start the journey home!

Pete, Robby, Josh and team

Saturday, May 30th 3:32 pm PDT

This is RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calling in from the top of Mount McKinley in Alaska. We just touched the summit; it’s just past after 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Our group and Mike Walter’s group summited today in short order. It’s a really, really nice day up here—sunny, light winds, and relatively warm as far as Alaska goes. The whole team made it up. It was awesome, Really great day and everybody is excited. [cheers] We’ll give a shout when we’re back at 17k Camp safely and soon we’ll be back in Talkeetna before we know it, heading downhill. Alright, talk to everybody later.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley.

On The Map

Awesome news - congratulations and I look forward to seeing some great summit pictures! Anna.

Posted by: Anna on 6/1/2015 at 5:20 am

Congrats, Brian!  All of us back home are very proud of you.  xoxo, Karen

Posted by: Karen on 5/31/2015 at 8:17 pm

May 30, 2015

Denali - West Buttress Expedition

Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT

All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We’ll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we’re ready to go.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

On The Map

Great photos and updates. Very exciting to read. Cannot imagine what the team is experiencing. So much fun. Brian… would love to hear all about the experience once you get back. Best of luck for the next phase. Send photos from the summit.

Posted by: Faisal M on 5/30/2015 at 3:39 pm



Posted by: Lori on 5/30/2015 at 3:31 pm

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