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Entries By pete van deventer


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 17,200’ Camp

May 31, 2016 - 1:17 am PT

It’s finally happening! Light snow fell overnight and the morning skies were blue, without anything moving up high. We packed up our camp, left a cache of extras, and went for round two on the fixed lines. With sunny skies and calm winds, we got the experience the air under our feet that comes with climbing the West Buttress. Exhilarating! 6.5 hours of climbing brought us to 17,200’ where we had to build camp in the thin air. With tents up and walls built, we’re tucking in for the night with the hope of going to the summit of Denali tomorrow.

Best,
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team

On The Map

Godspeed

Posted by: Walter Glover on 6/1/2016 at 5:29 am

Denali winds, please REST!!
So exciting! Be careful team, patience has served you well.

Posted by: Greg Hurley on 6/1/2016 at 2:59 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Train at 14,200’

May 29, 2016 - 10:36 p.m. PDT

Our stint at 14,200’ has started to stretch for a bit, but we think we see the light at the end of the tunnel. Winds are forecast to drop starting Tuesday, and that looks to be the start of our window. We’ll look at moving up tomorrow, depending on winds, but if not, one more rest day won’t hurt before our big push. In the mean time, we’ve been keeping ourselves entertained by brushing up and sharpening our crevasse rescue skills, and today our avalanche rescue skills. Fourteen Camp on Denali provides a stunning backdrop for a classroom! While we’ve steadily improved our compound here into a quite comfortable home, we won’t be sad to put it in our rear view. We’ll let you know what tomorrow brings.

Best,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young, and team

On The Map

You can do it! I’m sending you all beautiful warm weather from where I am right now, Croatia!

Posted by: Jamie on 5/30/2016 at 1:41 pm

So glad to hear that you are perfecting your skills for the last push. It terrifies me to think of what you might do tomorrow in order to reach your goal - crevasse, avalanche, rescue - these are scary words. Be safe and know that you’ve accomplished a great deal already.

Posted by: leanne on 5/30/2016 at 10:48 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait for a Weather Window

May 28, 2016 - 10:27 p.m. PDT

We woke with a sigh of relief to blue bird skies and calm conditions, though the winds up above were clearly stirring up a magic potion. With the morning came just a little heat to help us continue drying out after the storm. We had a strange desire for breakfast burritos this morning so we acted upon the urge. Given the continued strong winds up high we “just got to be” as life at 14 Camp continues. Numerous other teams took the elevator up the fixed lines to cache in hopes of taking advantage of the potential coming weather window these modern times and technology allow us to anticipate. We’d like to thank Rob Young, Sr. and Katie Van Deventer for being our personal forecasters. With views straight to the summit from where we sit, we’re staring at the gold on the ceiling patiently waiting for our time to climb.

Until then, give your heart away.
RMI Guides Jess Matthews, Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, the Team and the Black Keys

On The Map

You’ve been so patient and it has to be so frustrating to see the prize just a short distance away! If it’s in the cards, you’ll summit. If not, better safe than sorry.

Justin, I filled Father Daniel in. He’s praying for your safety and your success.

Love,

Mom:)

Posted by: leanne on 5/29/2016 at 10:15 pm

You guys are SOOO close ... stretch out that food as long as you can! Justin, I’m all set for my travel arrangements, so take your time on the mountain (but stay safe and warm). I’ll be waiting for you in Anchorage when you get there!!!!

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/29/2016 at 3:19 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Weather Day at 14K Camp

May 28, 2016 - 12:06 am PT

‘The Great One’ once again showed her might. Another night of hammering winds kept us from deep sleep. Despite unrelenting gales, Denali Storm Evans finally gifted us with sunny skies this morning. Today was a day to lick our wounds, repair and fortify camp, and dry our clothes; wet from the rigors of battling the passing storm. It was a day to be grateful for the sun.

Cinnamon Toast Crunch provided a dose of childhood nostalgia, followed up by Pete’s world famous power dinner; quinoa, lentils, squash, beans, and mustard. Our bodies and our minds still await our chance to experience the upper slopes of this great mountain.  With mother nature’s cooperation, we’re hopeful this shall soon come to fruition.

Until then, Namaste.

RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Jess, and Team

Ditto what Leanne said ... we are all anxiously awaiting what’s next for you all and the news can’t come soon enough. Nine days at Camp 3. Is that a record? I know you are doing your best to keep your spirits up together and give it all you’ve got. Justin, can I promise you a foot rub for all your efforts? Hopefully that gives you just a little more stamina ...

Posted by: Patrice La Vigne on 5/28/2016 at 2:24 pm

Oh, the simple pleasures of life - sunshine, dry clothes, deep sleep. I hope all these things stay with you until you reach your goal and return home safely. Your friends in the lower half have been praying nonstop for your safety and health.

These blog posts are like letters from heaven. Thanks for keeping us informed. It’s our lifeline.

Posted by: leanne on 5/28/2016 at 10:37 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team - Apocalyptic at 14K

May 26, 2016 - 11:29 pm PT

Tonight’s dispatch will be short courtesy of Storm Evans.
Everyone is doing well but very occupied with shoveling out our tents every 45 minutes as the 60mph wind that is ripping through camp fills everything back in with spindrift. Not the most pleasant day, and we certainly didn’t even entertain the thought of going anywhere. Hopefully the winds give us a reprieve and let us get some sleep tonight. We’ll touch base tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

Hello Hitesh, best wishes from everybody at Home. hopefully, weather clears up tomorrow! take care.

Posted by: Paresh on 5/27/2016 at 9:16 pm

Hitesh. All is taken care of. Wishing you good weather!!!

Posted by: Rod Dubois on 5/27/2016 at 3:59 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Compose Rest Day Poetry

May 25, 2016 - 11:47 p.m. PDT

The morning sun never showed at all, rather than views of “The Great One,” all we saw was the inside of a ping pong ball.
Blowing snow and midday brunch, spinach and egg burritos took us well past lunch.
Life at 14 is cut and dry, we’ve prepped, we’ve cached, and we’re ready to fly.
Our eyes are fixed on the buttress above, we were surprised this evening by a tent dwelling dove.
Coming high pressure may not be our best friend, but at least we’ll have some views again.
Toasted pop tarts keep our spirits light, we hope the summit is soon in our sights.

~~A poetic collaboration of RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young

On The Map

If Smores pop tarts are what you guys had,
Life at the top,
Ain’t half bad.

Wishing you all a continued safe (and amazing) journey! (*Hi, H!!*)

Posted by: Yogita on 5/26/2016 at 12:58 pm

Lisa: The “porch crowd” eagerly awaiting your dash to the top .. tried to encourage George and Rob to start training .. not much success, so far

Posted by: Peter on 5/26/2016 at 11:47 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Carry to 16,000’

May 25, 2016 - 1:04 am PT

For the first time in several days, the skies were clear above and below us this morning. With those clear skies came COLD temps. We let the sun warm the tents and us, and then set our sights on the fixed lines for a light carry of personal gear. The sun kept it warm while we moved, but the temps stayed cold and we kept the breaks short as they quickly turned chilly. Our group moved really well, and with no other traffic around, we were quickly at the top of the lines, sitting on the West Buttress proper. Our later departure, and light but cold winds convinced us to cache our loads there, and head back down. As has been the recent pattern, as we descended the winds above built, and soon evidence of strong winds was showing on the summit, and moving down to the Buttress as well. We were happy to be back in camp relaxing. The next weather system is forecasted to come in tonight and tomorrow, so we’ll enjoy the comfort of our tents. At this point, we are watching for our window and are perfectly set up to go for the summit when the opportunity presents. That might mean a touch more waiting, but we are ok with that.

Best from 14,

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team

On The Map

Well team u “got this” the summit is so close, man that slope looks like 38-40 degrees angle glad to hear the weather is on ur side rest up for the finally “Ooh Rah” say hello to our friend L R climb on and be safe. Best XO The Bolomey’s

Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/26/2016 at 3:10 am

Impressive feat to summit West Buttress during a break in the weather. Patrice tells me that Thursday through Sunday will bring favorable weather; so, maybe you’ll make good progress toward your goal of summiting. I am hoping and praying that you are successful because it’s occurred to me that another climb up Denali might be in your future if you don’t succeed this time. I couldn’t take the anxiety again.

Upwards and onwards!

Posted by: leanne on 5/25/2016 at 1:09 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Visit the Famous Edge of the World

May, 23, 2016 - 10:05 p.m. PDT

Fully prepared for Denali Storm Daryl overnight, we were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a quiet night and an even more beautiful morning. While cold and calm here at 14 Camp this morning, the upper mountain continued to impress with strong winds and an impressive lenticular cloud covering the summit. Our sights turned from climbing and caching, to rest and rejuvenation. We said goodbye to our friends Mike Walter and crew as they began their long descent back to civilization, and headed out to the famous “Edge of the World,” a must see for any climber lucky enough to call 14 camp home. The views were ‘out of this world,’ as always, looking out over the cloud-filled lower Kahiltna Glacier, 7,000’ below. Quesadilla Supremes nourished our rested bodies this evening before the setting sun coaxed us back into the warmth of our tents. Tomorrow, our waiting game continues as we look toward a weather window that will allow us entrance to the upper slopes of the tallest mountain in North America.

Goodnight from RMI Guides Robby Young, Pete Van Deventer, and Jess Matthews and team.

On The Map

Hi Lisa& team VanDemventer wow unbelievable picturesque breathtaking views, hope ur window of opportunity happens today to take u to the top, it’s been a good tough journey I’m sure be safe to all and climb on. Xo the BOLOMEY’S ⛷

Posted by: Joe&Patty; on 5/25/2016 at 3:14 am

Great break in the weather for all as you acclimatize and get those red blood cell numbers up there.

Hitesh. Thinking about you and all goes well at SCH

Posted by: Rod Duboid on 5/24/2016 at 9:06 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Waiting Out The Weather

May 22, 2016 - 11:34 p.m. PDT

We climbed out of the tents this morning hopeful that we would head uphill to cache. Though there was a cap on the summit, the ridge of the West Buttress looked doable. As we fired the stoves though that situation began to change as the cap lowered and the winds over the Buttress picked up. By the end of breakfast we had changed our minds and decided to stay put. That was further reinforced when a climbing ranger stopped by to let us know that NOAA had called with a special weather advisory with high winds and snow. The rangers have taken to naming the storms; this one is Denali storm Daryl. We spent the day resting and hibernating in tents, though so far Daryl has been pretty gentle with us. Tomorrow sounds like it will be another rest day, but if we wake up to something unexpected, we’ll rally and get our cache in.

Fra Tomas: Gratulerer med dagen Sinnekka! Jeg elsker deg, din Tomas.

Signing off,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, and Robby Young, and team

On The Map

Nobody messes with Daryl on TWD; so, I’m glad to hear that you are paying storm Daryl some respect.

Stay low and ride this out. Mother Nature is always in charge.

Posted by: leanne on 5/23/2016 at 3:48 pm

Stay safe .. No guts and glory stuff!!!

Posted by: Peter on 5/23/2016 at 9:45 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Pick up Cache and Review Techniques

May 21, 2016 - 11:43 pm PT

Though there was a cap on the upper mountain when we woke, that wasn’t the direction of our concern. The snow and winds had abated, and down towards Windy Corner, the sun was shining through thin clouds, setting everything to sparkling. After another great brunch, we grabbed our packs and feeling light as feathers, cruised downhill to our cache. We made quick work of retrieving it, and an hour later were back in camp with a small mountain of food. We spent a bit of time before dinner rigging our ascenders and reviewing fixed line techniques for what we hope to be our carry up onto the West Buttress tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we’ll make our first trip up the lines, and all the boxes will be checked for our summit bid.

All for now,

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Jess, and team

On The Map

Following your trail Lisa and it must be incredible. Must be so beautiful. You are awesome!

Posted by: Trix on 5/23/2016 at 6:14 pm

So close.. enjoy every step and the fabulous view, Lisa..!  Go higher !! Look forward to seeing the flag !

Posted by: greg hurley on 5/23/2016 at 12:27 pm

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