Entries By pete van deventer

Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the Summit!

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Pete Van Deventer | July 01, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning under clear skies, with warm temperatures and a light breeze.  The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent from the crater rim just after 7 am PST. 

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens made a sunset climb last night and reached the crater with 100% of their team.

All three teams will descend to Paradise today and return to Ashford to conclude their programs.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Teams Summit!

Posted by: Brent Okita, Pete Van Deventer | June 23, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guide Brent Okita and the Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:45 am. Brent reported good weather with 25 mph winds. The teams spent about an hour on the summit before beginning their descent at 7:45 am.

An RMI Team crossing the summit crater of Mt. Rainier. Photo: Brent Okita
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Mt. Rainier: June 18th Update

Posted by: Walter Hailes, Pete Van Deventer, Elias de Andres Martos | June 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

Our Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Walter Hailes and Pete Van Deventer, were just reaching the summit at 7:10 a.m.  Walter reported winds of about 20mph, cool temperatures, and they were just below the clouds hanging right above the summit.  Both teams began their descent at 8:15 a.m.

Elias deAndres Martos and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team checked in and were at 12,600’ working their way to the summit.

An RMI team ascending Mount Rainier as the sun rises. Photo: Win Whittaker
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Mt. Rainier: June 13th Update

Posted by: Tyler Reid, Pete Van Deventer | June 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'

The Mount Rainier Summit Climb, led by Ty Reid and Pete Van Deventer, is currently on the summit.  The weather report from the summit is sunny skies and moderate/steady winds.  An update will be posted when the teams begin their descent.

Congratulations summit climbers!

An RMI team on top of Mt. Rainier, Washington. Photo: RMI Collection
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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Conclude Their Expedition

Posted by: Josh Maggard, Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young | June 02, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 348'

June 2, 2015 - 6:56 pm PT

The last few days of a trip always fly by. The summit, descent, and celebration in town all came together over the course of three days. Our summit day was spectacular, with blue, sunny skies, little wind, and balmy (0 degrees F) temps. We got up with the sun the next morning, which felt considerably colder, and packed our bags to descend. We originally planned to go as far as 11,200’ Camp, picking up our cache at 14,000’ along the way, but when we walked into 11k at 4.30 in the afternoon, and with plenty of energy to spare, we decided to keep the momentum rolling, rig sleds, and head to 7,600’ camp. The few hours of fighting with our sleds downhill proved well worth it. We got to camp at 8:30, where RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank with their Upper West Rib team were super nice and had stoves boiling for us already. We set a hasty camp since we were only going to be there for a few hours, and went to bed. We had our only real alpine start of the trip, waking at 2.30 am. The walk out the lower Kahiltna was one of the highlights of the trip. High thin clouds reflected the light of a not yet risen sun, and the alpenglow on the surrounding peaks burned a brilliant red. A wind at our backs pushed us towards Base Camp. The scene kept our eyes drifting to the sky, and it was impossible not to enjoy the walk despite the heavy packs and sleds. By 7:30 we were at the airstrip, ready for the first flights of the day to Talkeetna. In no time the incredible pilots from K2 descended in two Otters, we loaded the planes, and we were in town, taking in the scents of grass, flowers, and trees for the first time in weeks. We showered off the smell of 18 days on the mountain, and set about filling our bellies with something that we hadn’t carried on our backs. We spent the afternoon drying gear and packing bags for our inevitable separation, and then had a final celebration dinner at the West Rib, a restaurant that is synonymous with Mt. McKinley climbers. Now, we are beginning to part ways. Some of our climbers have left for Anchorage and flights home, while others are staying in Alaska for a bit longer, albeit as tourists. Jet boat adventures, bicycle tours, and road trips to the North side of the park all lie in the future. The guides will amuse ourselves tomorrow with some time on a boat, dropping lines for Halibut, before we also head South to the Mt. Rainier climbing season. The group did a spectacular job on the mountain, climbing smoothly and safely, and we were rewarded with a truly fine summit and 100% of our group on the summit. The guides thank the whole team for their efforts, laughs, and incredible chemistry; it was a really memorable trip for us as well! Thanks to everyone for following along. Now its off to a boat, where someone else baits the hook for us and the fish can’t help but bite!

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and Team.

The RMI Expeditions May 12th Mt. McKinley Expedition on the summit May 31, 2015.  Photo: Robby Young

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Congrats on the amazing achievement! Looking forward to all the war stories. :D

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Posted by: Brett on 6/2/2015 at 9:04 pm

You are a superstar little Duvo (Renee) I am so happy and proud of you. I knew you’d make it. Well done to all your team members and thank you… read more

Posted by: Kathy on 6/2/2015 at 8:55 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Making Good Progress on Their Descent After Summit

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 31, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, May 31st 1:54pm PDT

This afternoon our team descended to 14,200 feet. Once evening hits, we will continue our descent to either the McKinley camp at 11,200’ or 7,800’.  If we stay on schedule and pending the weather, we will be at the airstrip and ready for our flight back to Talkeetna by tomorrow afternoon.

We will be home soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Team PJR, all climbers and of course our colleague Renee.
We are all so very proud of you, for achieving your goal of climbing Mt McKinley ! You truly… read more

Posted by: VEC on 5/31/2015 at 9:33 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 20,320'

Update Saturday, May 30th 8:30 pm PDT

Summit day! We decided to do something a bit unorthodox and wake up and leave early without the sunshine. Usually it would make for a really cold couple of hours, but the temperatures have been unseasonably balmy. It had the added advantage of getting us out ahead of several other teams that were heading for the summit also. The deviation worked out perfectly and we had a nice warm morning to walk, with no other teams in front of us. The skies stayed crystal blue all day, and 6 1/2 hours or so later, we were standing on the highest thing around! We had a good half hour on the summit, snapping pictures and taking it all in, before chilly breeze convinced us to head back for camp. We are back with plenty of time to brew up dinner and watch the later teams on their descent. It was a special day and everyone’s really excited. It was especially great to have the whole team make it to the top. Tomorrow we turn our sights downhill and start the journey home!

Pete, Robby, Josh and team

Saturday, May 30th 3:32 pm PDT

This is RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calling in from the top of Mount McKinley in Alaska. We just touched the summit; it’s just past after 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Our group and Mike Walter’s group summited today in short order. It’s a really, really nice day up here—sunny, light winds, and relatively warm as far as Alaska goes. The whole team made it up. It was awesome, Really great day and everybody is excited. [cheers] We’ll give a shout when we’re back at 17k Camp safely and soon we’ll be back in Talkeetna before we know it, heading downhill. Alright, talk to everybody later.

Looking at the summit ridge of Mt. McKinley and Mt. Foraker from the summit of Mt. McKinley, AK. Photo: Solveig Waterfall


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls from the summit of Mt. McKinley.

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MATT CONGRATS to you and your team for the fantastic climb. What an accomplishment in your life that you will always remember. You will have so many stories to share.… read more

Posted by: marilyn collura on 5/31/2015 at 6:46 am

Congrats Matt!! That is one hell of a climb, I am proud of you brother. I can not wait see you and hear all about it when you get back.… read more

Posted by: Michael M on 5/31/2015 at 6:27 am


Mt. McKinley: Pete Van Deventer & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 30, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'

Friday, May 29th 10:30 pm PDT

All according to plan! We woke up early this morning, packed everything up, left a bit of food and fuel in a hole at 14K, and headed up the fixed lines. We had another brilliant, sunny, calm day on the West Buttress, and were in camp at 17K by mid afternoon. A couple of hours of work leveling tent sites and building walls got us set to be here. The forecast looks good for tomorrow, so we intend to head for the summit in the morning. We’ll hope to be reporting success tomorrow evening! But now, to bed so that we’re ready to go.

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

An RMI climbing team at the top of the fixed lines. Photo: RMI Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team take a Well Earned Rest Day

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 29, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

May 28, 2015 11:34pm PST

After a big day yesterday, we took it easy today to rest up for a forthcoming summit push. We woke late and enjoyed a breakfast of eggs, bacon; and hash browns which stretched into afternoon. A few hours of sorting gear, napping, and reading led into a dinner of quesadillas. Unfortunately, the meat department may be getting low… From here on out its freeze dried dinners, ramen, and oatmeal. With that in mind we savored the fresh food, and wrapped up small details for tomorrow. Everything seems to be lining up for us to move to high camp tomorrow. We’ll wake early, beat the sun out of camp, and take our second stroll along the West Buttress. Everybody is excited and fired up.

Keep your fingers crossed for us!

RMI Guides
Pete, Josh, Robby, and Team

An RMI Dining tent on Mt. McKinley. RMI Photo Collection

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Carry to High Camp

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard | May 28, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Mount McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday, May 28th 3:49 am PDT

After so many posts about waiting for weather, this one is different. We headed for the fixed lines this morning under clear, sunny skies. The day turned into the nicest that Robby, Josh, or I have ever had on the West Buttress—warm and without a breathe of wind. Because the weather was so nice, the climbing conditions so perfect, and the group climbing so well, we decided to push all of the way to 17 Camp and leave our cache there. The climbing on the Buttress is some of the best of the entire route, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the huge views, interesting climbing, and the accomplishment of getting it done. It was a big day, just under 10 hours round trip, so everyone is knackered but elated, and we will more than likely sleep in and take a rest day tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Looking up at the West Buttress on Mt. McKinley, AK from 14 Camp. Photo: RMI Collection

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