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Entries By pete van deventer

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Makes Carry to Lenz Rocks

We got our first day of glacier climbing in, and finally used all of the gear that we've been carting through airports and carrying up trails. Our main goal was to move our tents up to our high camp at Lenz Rocks and get some acclimatization time in too. We accomplished both. We roped up and climbed 2.5 hours of warm, sunny, and sometimes in the clouds glacier. Just below Lenz Rocks, we found the wind, the telltales of which we'd been watching for awhile. It wasn't any match for us though, and another half hour of climbing got us to our cache site. The trip down is direct and fast. What took four hours to get up took maybe an hour to get down as we opened our strides up and rolled out of the wind back into the furnace. We're hoping conditions look good in the morning to make our move and prepare to head for the summit. Best, RMI Guides Pete and Mike, and team "why are the hut doors all made for people who are 5 feet tall?"
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Great to hear the winds have calmed and the team is doing well. Awesome pictures!  Sounds like Marc is still always looking to do an extra leg long after mostly everyone is spent.  “Similar to Mt. Whitney”.  Also, was wondering how it felt to have no issues with the hut doors for Marc since the 5 foot height was comfortably taller.  :-).  All the best to the team and my Buddy.

Posted by: Jimmy Hoadrea on 8/14/2019 at 10:04 am

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Enjoy a Well Caffeinated Rest Day

After two days of carrying big packs and moving from near sea level in Moscow, to 8,000' at Base Camp, to 12,000' at Camp 1, it was a fine day to rest and let our bodies catch up to the altitude. We had a leisurely rolling breakfast and coffee session outside the dining hut in the sun, watching climbers on the route above, some still ascending, some descending from their midnight departures. Some of us found nooks to tuck into and devour our books, while others stood around and chatted. Caffeine consumption was a theme for most. We did a short climbing refresher on the toe of the glacier in the afternoon, double checked that our climbing equipment and skills were ready for a carry to 15,000' tomorrow, and then returned to camp to nap and wait for dinner. The most exciting part of the day was saved for just before bed when Pamela spotted a red fox cruising through camp. Everyone pulled out to catch a glimpse, though the fox was quick to slide behind some rocks, out of sight. Our plan tomorrow is to make a small cache of gear at our next camp, Lenz Rocks, in preparation for a move and summit in short order. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Mike Uchal, and Team "we saw a red fox and it wasn't the clothing brand"
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Keep pushing Dan!

Posted by: Tom Maddalena on 8/11/2019 at 1:57 pm

Glad everything is going smoothly. At least you saw a Red Fox and not a Red Bear. LOL . Saying hi so my Sonny Boy, Marc. 

Papa Bear

Posted by: David Gollob on 8/10/2019 at 9:30 am

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team moves to Camp 1

It was a perfect morning to move up to Camp 1! Bright, sunny skies greeted us as we crawled out of the tents, so we'r spent some time organizing what we would take up high and what we would leave. It's easy to think about a few days in camp 1 and start filling our backpacks with luxury items, but everything that comes up must go down. We cooked up a "very American breakfast" of fresh eggs, Tillamook cheddar, loaded into tortillas, and grabbed our packs to start the journey back up the tall that we familiarized ourselves with yesterday. Somehow, having seen it once, each stretch felt easier than yesterday, we walked a bit lighter, and before we knew it, we were pulling into camp. The pattern from the last several afternoons changed today, and though clouds built at times, they dispersed and we stayed warm and most importantly, dry. We're looking at a bit of a training day tomorrow, but mostly a day to rest and acclimate after a few big days and a big jump in altitude. RMI Guides Pete and Mike, and Team "all we've learned is the Russian word for hose"
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Great job Guys! Keep it up Dan!

Posted by: Mike Lee on 8/10/2019 at 5:55 am

Can’t wait to see pictures and hear about your climb Dan!! Now is when all that conditioning and hard work pays off. Take in the view and live in the moment man. LOVE that kind of stuff! What an adventure for sure.


Posted by: JWiz on 8/9/2019 at 1:49 pm

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Carries to Camp 1

We awoke the first time this morning to the entrancing beats of Zivert, from songs of an intrepid hiker's boombox, at 4:30 am. A bit confused and groggy we fell asleep again, waking to bright sunshine at a much more reasonable hour, all wondering if we had imagined the 4:30 episode. After a breakfast spread and fresh artisan drip coffee seemed better than Starbucks by Abby, we packed up our packs with loads of food and climbing gear that we won't need until above Camp 1 and headed uphill to make our first steps towards the summit, get dinner off our weight up to the next camp, and accomplish some acclimatization as well. Our sunshine lasted for about an hour and a half of walking, and by late morning, clouds had built above us and much of the mountain. It was cooler, and the occasional snowflake sifted down as we continued our upward progress. After just under five hours, we walked into Camp 1, on the terminal moraine of the glacier. We made a quick cache, then turned and headed down, hoping to drop underneath the clouds. We managed to just around Mushroom Rocks, some unique formations that have been sculpted by wind, rain, snow, and time to resemble giant rock mushrooms. After pausing for photos and snacks, it was all ahead to base camp, impressed to have the weight off our backs and be able to move. We rounded out the evening with naps and a hearty pasta dinner. Our plan tomorrow, assuming the weather cooperates, is to move up to the huts at Camp 1. Best, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team

On The Map

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Move into Basecamp

We made it to the mountain! We got up this morning, had a last cafe breakfast in town, and loaded the YAZ vans for the trip to Elbrus-Northside Basecamp. The YAZ is the itinerant vehicle in rural Russia, and Mike Uchal's next car. Styled like a Volkswagen van, but diesel, four-wheel drive, with nothing but the basics inside, they are built to bounce, bump, splash, and grind their way over terrain, generally at what feels like a fair amount of speed. That's exactly what we did this morning. Our drivers Igor and Yuri deftly maneuvered us over the rough four-wheel drive track that leads to base camp. Upon our arrival, we quickly erected our small city of tents, went for a walk to stretch our legs, dodged into the tents to hide from a passing rain shower, and covered up a delicious dinner of chili. Tomorrow, we'll move a load of things up to the camp on the moraine at 12,000'. We'll be in touch afterwards! RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

On The Map

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Ready to Launch

Our departure this morning was earlier than anyone wanted, but gave us plenty of time at the Moscow International Airport to sort out our numerous duffels, get everything checked, and have a quick breakfast and coffee before we boarded. The flight to Kislovodsk was uneventful (as they all should be), and soon we were blazing down the road in a minibus towards our hotel. While the team did some food shopping and relaxed, the guides made a trip to our outfitters to grab some stored gear. We got the special treatment, returning in a Russian jeep! We've had dinner, checked through our gear, and are ready for bed and a departure for the mountain tomorrow morning. Best, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
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Good luck and we look forward to following the climb.  One question on the Russian truck, it appears to be held together by tape?

Posted by: wendy kolosar on 8/6/2019 at 9:27 am

Godspeed Pete and friends.
PS: Aconcagua + Rainier book in composition..
Fun reliving dat. To find a publisher now,,,,

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 8/6/2019 at 8:01 am

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Arrives in Moscow

The team assembled in Moscow yesterday evening for the start to our Elbrus Northside adventure. We kept things brief, as many of us were working off the affects of many hours of transatlantic flights, and headed out for a nice dinner at a rooftop restaurant overlooking the Moscow River. This morning it was time to kick it into tourist gear and explore some of the historical architecture in and around the Kremlin. We met our tour guide Victoria in a bustling Red Square and joined the queue to file through Lenin’s Tomb to see his body. We emerged from the darkness to cross Red Square and enter St. Basil's Cathedral. The building is actually made up of 11 individual churches, all connected, that were built and dedicated to a variety of saints; some local heroes of Moscow, and some of the Eastern Orthodox religion. After a quick swing through the GUM department store, we swung around the walls of the Kremlin to the entrance and filtered through the main gate. Inside, buildings from a variety of time periods, some dating back to the Czars and emperors, some built during communism, house a variety of museums, assembly and concert venues, and current Russian government offices. Of interest to us were the five cathedrals towards the back of the Kremlin. Cathedrals that were used for the coronation of emperors, to hold the remains of royalty, to be the head of the Eastern Orthodox religion, and to be the location for royal baptisms, weddings, and other major events. Our whirlwind tour of cathedrals concluded, and we wandered into the old city for lunch, before making our way back across the Moscow River to our hotel for a little free time. We got together this evening for another delicious meal atop yet another Moscow building, this one themed around mushrooms and all of their unique flavors. We’ve only just gotten off the planes it feels like, but early tomorrow, we’ll be back on the road to the airport, headed for Kislovodsk, our departure point for the mountain and our objective. It will feel good to be closer to the hills, and to the rhythms of climbing that we're accustomed. We'll check in tomorrow from Kislovodsk. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
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I hope you all have a safe and fun climb! What an adventure! I looking forward to following you on this amazing journey

Posted by: Kelly Nyquist on 8/7/2019 at 3:17 pm

Looks amazing have a safe climb!! We’re following along

Posted by: Sean on 8/6/2019 at 7:49 pm

Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Team Summit

The Mt. Rainier Four-Day Summit Climb team, led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer, reached the summit around 8:15 a.m. The winds brought in a cap but it was above the summit when they arrived. After spending an hour on top, the team began their descent at 9:15 a.m.
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It was an amazing experience! Thank you Pete, Taylor, and Devin. Great team members to climb with too. I will write the detailed review in the evaluations. It was awesome!

Posted by: Behrang Asgharian on 7/24/2019 at 9:33 am

What an incredible experience! Guides: Pete, Taylor, Devon, Camille, and Joe were great.
A big thanks for teaching us so much, experiences on the way up and getting us to the top!  We had so much fun.  You got us through the challenging conditions.  Highly recommend RMI for a guided service.

Posted by: Jake and Kristin Pool on 7/23/2019 at 3:27 pm

Mt. Rainier: Van Deventer & Team Turned Backed by Weather

The Four Day Climb July 12 - 15 led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today due to weather. The teams climbed to 13,400' before deciding to turn back. They had been in the rain and snow since 3 AM and the weather was not improving. The team is returning to Camp Muir and will repack and continue down to Paradise later this morning.
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Mother nature was not in your favor today. There’s always another day. Grateful that you are safely back at Muir.  Take it easy on the decent. Josh and Lisa, you inspire me to get back in the saddle, after many years of being away from the mountain. She always takes my breath away! Love and (((hugs)))... See you soon

Posted by: Cynthia Drake on 7/15/2019 at 8:23 am

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Enjoy Beautiful Day

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Alex Halliday led their Four Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported a beautiful day and a great climb as they were reaching the crater rim just before 7 AM PT. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Looking forward to our climb on the 10th

Posted by: Michael on 7/6/2019 at 2:25 pm

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