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Mt. Everest Expedition: Sherpa Team Setting up High Camp While the Team Rests

Now it gets interesting in Everest-ville. Chherring, Dawa Jamba and Kaji made a significant contribution to our team's potential success today. They got up around 2 AM, put on big packs at ABC and climbed all the way to the South Col, establishing what will be our High Camp at 26,000 feet. All three were safely back down the Lhotse Face and into ABC by noon. They'll hope to repeat that extremely big morning of work in the next few days... boosting enough tents, fuel, oxygen and miscellaneous heavy stuff up to the Col so that the door will be open for our summit bid. Just when that summit bid will take place is uncertain at this point. To be sure, when Linden, Sara and myself came down from ABC yesterday we were bucking the local trend. There were dozens of our friends, fellow guides and Sherpas pushing up the lower mountain with summit stars in their eyes already. This season is turning out to be different from those in recent memory in that the weather window is open early and people are taking advantage. This has long been a hope for those of us who habitually attempt Everest..."If only the weather could be good enough, early enough so that everybody wasn't going for the summit on the same four crowded days in late May" Climbers are getting to the top now... we heard that Apa Sherpa got his record 21st summit of the mountain today... British climber Kenton Cool is already back home after a head-spinning and nearly unheard of three-week round-trip to the summit (we are on our seventh or eighth week). In the next couple of days it should get quite busy at the top of the world as the bulk of the assembled expeditions look to get it all done while the jet-stream seems to be otherwise occupied. If it seems like I'm jealous then perhaps I am... but only mildly. A good shot at the top for others is not necessarily a good shot for us. Having just come down the mountain from our last round of acclimatization yesterday, I'm satisfied enough with our exertions and not yet restless and bored enough to be jealous of anyone else's. Although the three of us are each feeling strong and healthy now, we need a good chunk of rest and we cling to the belief that a viable weather window later in the month will be warmer and quieter than a viable weather window in the middle of the month... we want every single advantage. That is why we were trying to get up to sleep at Camp 3 a few days ago. Without question it would have been a big plus for our small team to have the experience and confidence that results from an admittedly dreadful night in a tent at 24,000 ft. But it was clear to each of us that Sara was getting worn out in the most-recent effort to reach that camp... who knows why? Perhaps the last rest period in Base Camp wasn't long enough... perhaps the windy-night at Camp 1 deprived her of the sleep she needed... perhaps the hot sun in the Western Cwm or the cold morning at ABC drained her reserves... perhaps, perhaps, perhaps... it doesn't really matter. It is a huge disadvantage that younger climbers suffer from -that they don't always know their bodies well enough to know just why and when they'll be tired instead of burly. But in any case, Sara was getting worked by the climb to Camp 3... she knew it, I knew it, and Linden knew it. We all were completely clear that despite this, she could make it up to the camp under her own power and spend the night if necessary. But the day's goal no longer seemed to be a smart one of it meant getting our most important climber exhausted on the doorstep to the "death zone". It became crystal clear that we needed to focus on a bigger picture than a counter-productive practice night at Camp 3... we needed to get down, to get in a good rest and to get focused on a summit bid that fit our needs. And so here we are... listening to other teams high up on the hill, cheering on our own Sherpa team of heroes, eating everything in sight, beginning to talk just a bit of things we might do in June, keeping Tuck occupied with horseshoes, card games and dice, enduring daily snow showers, making one another laugh and trying to stay focused on a big picture that involves going to 29,035 ft soon... and coming down safely. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Comments (9)

Thanks for the posts, Dave.  I will be keeping track.  Hopefully that weather window that normally occurs later in May still happens and isn’t going on now.  Dave, did you ever meet my buddy Brett in Taos this year?  Climb safe. Looking forward to the next post. Hans

Posted by: Hans Reigle on

Thank you, Dave, for this insightful description of a very complex venture. Our gratitude to all those who make this happen and our thoughts and prayers are with everyone. Sara, to get so far up to now is an incredible accomplishment all by itself. Rest well. Bill, is putt-putt available at Base Camp? Thinking of you all with much love.

Posted by: Mom /Grandma on

Bill and Sara
I cannot tell you how eager I am to read your blog every day.  I am fascinated and so amazed by you both.  Stay strong, healthy and happy.  What an amazing journey and phenomenal adventure for you both.  You are all in our thoughts and prayers. I have hooked many of my friends and family on your blog.  Stay safe and warm!

Posted by: maribeth Jameson on

Chhering - good work!  Nice to see your picture among the photographs.  Very excited to hear about your 5th Everest climb…  or is it 6th now?  Looking forward to seeing more pictures!
Maria

Posted by: Maria on

Sara!!! We are all so proud that you are persevering so much!! The summit I’m sure will be one of the hardest things of your life, which is so awesome! Just being there and getting as far as you have gotten is an amazing accomplishment! I know God has huge plans for you from this experience and I pray for you everyday.  Rest well and have an amazing time in these next few days! I have so much faith in you and I know you will blow them all away! -xoxoxo, love grace

Posted by: Grace Caswell on

Dave thank you for the insight.  But more importantly for looking after all the Precious cargo up on that magnificent mountain!  Sending prayers and strength to the team!  Sara keep on keeping on :) each day is a new opportunity.  Rest is crucial for that summit window - and happy your body is getting you that needed rest.  Again big thanks on the insight.

Posted by: Eileen steil on

hey sara and bill and everyone, i feel i know all of you guys!  i am so excited about the news and will pray that all the work will be rewarded with the summit bid!  YEAH!  i am flying to new york tomorrow for the weekend to shoot!  remember my motto “have camera will travel”!  i will be thinking and thinking of you guys!  can’t wait to get the next post!  love and peace!  lynn

Posted by: Lynn Crow on

Bill, I am so happy that you ran in to Woody and Mathes Vaughan on the mountain!  What a small world.  Sara Ann (Mathes’ mom) sent me a copy of the picture.  Go Lions and Wildcats!  Sara, so glad you got to talk to her on the radio too.  You’ll have to meet in real life when you get back to Atlanta.  Love, Becca

Posted by: becca on

Great post Dave and great insight into the tough mental and emotional aspects of the climb - in addition to the obvious physical challenges.  Glad to hear that everyone is feeling good and you are all safe.  Amazing stuff seems to be happening on the mountain on a daily basis. 

Now the tough part will be to see if Bill has enough “material” to keep the team entertained at Base Camp for the week.  I’m sure he could fill the summer if necessary….  Stay safe!

Posted by: Martin on

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