Mt. McKinley: Mallory & Team Cache Supplies above the Fixed Lines
Sitting at over 14,000' on the west side of the mountain it takes the sun awhile to reach camp in the morning, so when we got up this morning it was cold, cold, cold. We hurriedly wolfed down breakfast and loaded up our packs with supplies for our cache, all the while hopping back and forth from one foot to the other trying to generate whatever body heat we could. By 8:30 we headed out of camp. Below us the entire lower Kahiltna Glacier came into view as we climbed higher, stretching for dozens of miles through the peaks of the Alaska Range. Above unfortunately wasn't quite so clear and a bank of clouds swirled over the summit of Denali.
We climbed straight up the side of the West Buttress above 14 Camp, soon reaching an ice bulge at 15,500' known as The Eyebrow. From there the route steepens to 50 degrees or so for the final 700' of climbing to reach the ridge line of the West Buttress itself. This section is set with fixed ropes to help protect climbers on the exposed terrain. After a quick break we set out up the fixed lines, soon setting into a comfortable routine as we worked our way up the face, sliding our ascenders up the ropes as we climbed. Before long we topped out of the fixed ropes onto the ridge, stopping at 16,200' on a beautiful but exposed ridgeline, both sides rolling away several thousand feet. By now the clouds which started higher on the mountain had settled down around us, occasionally parting to reveal 14 Camp below us to the south and the Peters Glacier to our north.
We cached our small load of supplies there before turning around and heading back down the fixed lines and continuing on into camp. The team climbed well today, making good time and figuring out the intricacies of fixed lines travel easily. With our cache of gear established on the Buttress we are planning on taking a rest day tomorrow before heading up to high camp for our summit bid should the weather allow. We are all looking forward to some down time tomorrow and are excited to be preparing for the summit push.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
×
Sign Up For Denali 2011 Emails
{/exp:mailinglist:form}More to Explore
Mt. McKinley Expedition: Hahn & Team Move to 7,800’
July 2, 2011
Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team - Dress Rehearsal
July 3, 2011
Comments (3)
Hey Frank Marini,
We are all at a BBQ at Norms house for Michelles bday and we have been looking at your blog. It is so amazing! We are so proud of you! You are in our prayers…be safe, above all enjoy yourself.
Christie and everyone at your brothers house!
Posted by: Christie wissinger on
Looking east at magic hour on Mt Blanc, waiting for the sun to rise on the East to salute your bday!!!! Happy 4th - may it find you close to the top of North America.
Safe ascent and descent - fireworks for the whole em!!! Cheers to the Firecracker!
Posted by: mallory fam at camp molly in cham on
Congratulations on another strong day. It is hard to imagine from the comfort of an armchair climbing at 50 degrees! It is interesting to read the blogs of all the teams and note that the weather is very different at each point of the mountain. Frank, hope you’re taking lots of pics! Enjoy your rest day.
Posted by: Laurie M on