Tuesday, June 27, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

The morning started out cold, crisp, and clear. Excitement was in the air - today we were climbing.

We ascended the steep snow up to 15,700. For some, each step was a new highest altitude ever climbed, while for others the thin air was all too familiar. Looking up, we could see the two ropes poking out of a steep slope of blue ice and wind blown snow. Looking down, through the clouds that had rolled in, glimpses of our camp could be seen far below. One by one, we attached ourselves to the fixed lines with ascenders. Initially cautious and unsteady, we soon found our footing and got into the groove - one duck step after the other. Nearing the top, the wind had picked up, and it was decided around 16,100 to descend back to camp - our mission of acclimatizing and experiencing the fixed ropes accomplished. Heading down the lines was exhilarating; facing downhill with one arm ensnared around the rope, we leaned forward and let gravity do the work. Relaxing in camp the rest of the day, we all felt prepared and ready - hopefully awaiting our chance to climb higher in the coming days.

RMI Climber Alex Smith