Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team At 17K Camp Keeping an Eye on Conditions
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Hannah McGowan, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
July 1, 2017 12:18 a.m. PST
This time we did it. But it wasn't easy by any means. As usual, there was murk and cloud around at 5 AM, but we could see the West Buttress and we couldn't see signs of big wind blowing. We packed up and ate a last low altitude breakfast. The team was climbing by 7:45 in light snow. We didn't have the perfectly packed trail this time and in the poor light of the mild shadowy whiteout, it sometimes felt as if we were climbing by Braille. At the top of the fixed lines, the crest of the Buttress wasn't universally friendly. When the sun prevailed, we were too hot and when the wind and cloud ruled, it could be kind of raw and mean. What was definitely friendly was crossing paths with Mike Haugen's victorious descending team. Climbing Washburn's Thumb at 16,600 feet was strenuous and exhilarating. The airy ridge walk after that felt slightly less airy with cloud filling the void on either side of the crest. It took us 8.5 hours, with some glitches and minor setbacks, but we got up to high camp. The weather improved at 17,200 ft as the clouds fell far below us and the sun made everything comfy and magical as the evening progressed. We'll likely rest tomorrow, but that doesn't mean we won't be looking out early to check conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
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Comments (7)
After this,it’s all downhill- literally. Dad
Posted by: Don brennan on
After this it’s all downhill- literally. Dad
Posted by: Don brennan on
Brennan! Super impressive. We will fire ball for you tonight!
Posted by: Sarah and Beth on
Godspeed Jim Walker and team…we are cheering you on from the eastern most point in the US: Siasconset, MA….have a WHALE of a climb!
Posted by: denny o'hearn on
Ken - You’re a better man than me. Sounds like awesome views and grinding it out. Hope the weather holds for summitting and you get to the top at an earlier hour than Team Haugen did. Be safe and have fun!
Posted by: Marty Rosenthal on
Ken, you made it to high camp! What an accomplishment! So proud of you and the team. Hope you enjoyed the views along the ridge.
I wonder if our massive enclosed snow brick bathroom still stands at 17 camp. It was quite impressive, with a roof and curved entrance for privacy. It was the brainchild of wonderful Brent Okita, and it made our five days at 17 camp far more enjoyable. Try digging it out if you can.
Missing the mountain but enjoying typing this from the sunny beach right now! Spent the last two weeks working out of your ‘ole Chicago office! Checking in on you and the team every day. Congrats on the hard work. An amazing journey. Stay strong and keep climbing!
Lindsay S
Posted by: Lindsay S on
Matt-Great progress so far! Stay strong. Our August trip to Glacier will be a stroll in the park for you after this experience :-)
I wish you and your team good weather and good luck in getting to the summit! Regards, Scott
Posted by: Scott Schlesner on