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Entries from Everest


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara’s Thoughts on Her Mt. Everest Experience

Yesterday I decided to end my quest to summit Mt Everest, and although I am still torn and wondering whether or not it was the right decision, I thought that I would try and explain to you why. Dave Hahn always says that he wants to climb mountains with people who climb with their head. Now, I don't always understand everything that Dave Hahn says (ha) and he says a lot of things (ha again), but what I think he means by this is that he wants team mates and climbers who think about the repercussions of their actions, who think about how they are physically feeling, and who don't push themselves into dangerous situations. Secondly, my dad ended his trip between Camps 2 and 3 (he says its closer to Camp 3, but whatever - ha). The end result is that after May 3rd he wasn't climbing with me anymore. So, for the first time in all our adventures, I had to be climbing by myself. Its been a bummer. Why I climb is for fun, and to be with my dad. And over the past 3 weeks its turned from being a fun experience to really more of a chore. Dave and Linden are awesome guides and great people, but they are not my dad. So, part of my job as a climber is to think (I know this sounds funny, but I know that a lot of climbers don't think). I have to think about how I am feeling, how strong I am, how much energy I have, and how much I "want it." As we started out our summit bid climb yesterday (the 17th), I was feeling physically strong, but I started to doubt that risking so very much was worth the summit to me. I don't expect others to understand why I lost my desire to go for the summit and to take the risks needed to do so. All I know is that you just can't manufacture desire to do this. So, as we got to our first break through the Ice fall I told Dave and Linden about my thoughts, and we decided to re-assess and walk back down. What I also didn't want to happen was to push myself to a very high point on the mountain, say 26,000 feet, have the winds blowing at 40 miles per hour, and me not wanting to go on. Then I would have not only have put our entire teams' summit chances in jeopardy, but I would have also created a huge safety situation. People would have had to put their lives on the line to get me off the mountain, and I wasn't going to allow that to happen. After we got back to Basecamp yesterday, I knew I had to make a decision. The more I thought about it, the more the right decision became clear - but repercussions of that decision were so scary to me that it took me awhile to make it. I'm was (and am) afraid that people will be disappointed in me, that people will believe that I gave up without trying. As I sit here I struggle with the same thoughts, did I give it my best shot? Am I just giving up? The more I think about it though, the more I am reminded of the reason I love going on expeditions so much, and that is because I love to climb, not because I love to summit. The summit is the icing on the cake, but you can still have a great cake without icing. I've done some amazing climbing here, and I think the difficulty of the climbing and the way I've climbed safely and quickly on this mountain has been as good as anyone. However, I still have a lot of regrets. The repercussions of my decision have made this last day a hard one. I feel horrible everything that has been "invested" in me over the last year to get me to this point and I will not summit. For a year I have been training, buying gear, ice climbing, backpacking and getting ready for a summit bid on Everest, and then when it comes along I have decided not to go. I know my teachers at school have made great sacrifices and invested a lot of time outside the classroom with me to allow me to go on this trip. I thank all the people who have been rooting me on, and sending me messages encouraging me on this climb. But I also know that it is the right decision. I do have regrets about this, and I know in the coming months that I will have even more, but I just don't think that I am willing to risk what you have to risk to try to summit this mountain. I also think that it is just too difficult for me to access those risks up high without my dad being there. And if I assess those risks incorrectly, the costs are just too much. So, all I ask of you is to know that I tried my hardest and please don't be disappointed in me for not reaching the summit. Sometimes its really not about the summit of the mountain, but what you've learned and experienced along the way. Perhaps climbing a mountain isn't really about the mountain at all. Sara McGahan
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sara, when I first heard about your decision not to summit, I wanted to jump to conclusions however, our friends helped me to understand what a strong person you are and we are all DEFINITELY SO VERY PROUD OF YOU. All of us were waiting to hear the story from you before being disappointed, and we all know the sacrifices you made and if you are happy, we are happy. Although summiting would have been an amazing experience, if you are okay without it, so are we. We are so proud of how far you made it and you will definitely go down in history maybe not for the summit but for the smart decision you made. You will be an example and a legend for future climbers. Hopefully when you come home, we can all catch up and you can fill us in on all of the wonderful memories you have made and you can reminisce on the climb. Yeah, we will wonder what could’ve happened but our curiosity is trumped by our happiness that you are safe and sound at home with us. Just know that we are all proud of you and you are a fantastic person and everyone who is disappointed in you, does not know your story. You know I am a harsh person and I hold you up to the highest standards, and even I am totally okay with your decision and GOT YOUR BACK.

I love you, Sara and hope you have some quick flights home because I cannot wait to see you!

Love, Kathryn M.

Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/20/2011 at 8:14 am

Sara and Bill,
We have all been following your blog and praying for you.
All we have to do is look at the incredible pictures to see that you have ACCOMPLISHED more than most of us ever would dream of even attempting.  So, congratulations on your climb and the successes you experienced along the way. I think there are many folks in Atlanta who will be happy to have you back safe and sound a little earlier than the original plan.

Posted by: Jennifer Leinweber on 5/20/2011 at 6:50 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave Hahn Checks in From ABC

This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Myself and Linden Mallory came up today on our new formulated summit plan. We went from Base Camp to Camp 2 today. It was stunning to us the changes in the ice fall, there had been a massive avalanche that had come off the west shoulder, and came right down along the climbing route. It actually made the route better by filling in the crevasses and knocking over all the little walls we were climbing over. It was pretty sobering to think that that same avalanche had it come down when climbers were going though the ice fall, it would have killed many people. As it turned out it came down at a time, sometime this last week, when nobody was in the icefall. That was really something to see. Linden and I came up through Camp 1 and straight up to Camp 2 in pretty good time and had good conditions. While we were walking there was cloud cover right from the start and from Camp 1 that was real helpful because it kept the sun off of us and light breezes as well so we didn’t dry out as much coming up here as we might normally have. Tcherring also came up so the three of us are up and we hope that Kaji and Dawa are able to come up tomorrow and that will be the making of our summit team. We are going to rest here tomorrow as planned. And take it easy at Advanced Base Camp tomorrow and hoping to go from ABC all the way up to Camp 4, skipping Camp 3 on the following day and be in place for our summit bid. So we’ll see what the weather does. We are keeping careful track of the weather right now. It is snowing lightly here and Mark Tucker says it is snowing more heavily at Base Camp. We are very interested in what the weather does down there because Bill and Sara are hoping to fly via helicopter from Base Camp to Kathmandu. They weren’t able to fly today due to weather. So we are keeping our fingers crossed for them tomorrow. That is all for the moment. We’ll be in touch. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dave and team, you can do it!  Climb strong but be SAFE!

Posted by: Andrew Propst on 5/19/2011 at 11:30 pm

Climb strong, Linden, and good luck!!! Can’t wait to hear about it all!
Xo-Dana Marie and John

Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 5/18/2011 at 6:54 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Difficult Choices When Climbing Mt. Everest

Sara McGahan, Linden Mallory and myself set out from Base Camp just after 5 AM on a final mission through the Khumbu Ice fall. It was meant to be our summit bid. When we reached the first series of ladders over crevasses, we took a break. Linden and I were pleased that we'd reached this point relatively quickly, but it was clear that Sara's mind was not entirely on the day's climbing. She spoke up to say that she wasn't entirely sure she wanted to go through with the planned week-long summit push. We suggested retreating to Base Camp in order to reassess and Sara agreed that would be the best course of action. During the morning at base, Sara bravely grappled with a heavy choice. She wasn't alone, of course, having the counsel of her Dad there in person and her Mom on the phone, but ultimately, the choice was hers to make. In some ways, despite the danger and brutally hard physical work of a summit push, choosing to go on would have been the easier option. Sara made the more difficult choice. She ended her bid to get up Mount Everest at age 16 and she did it with a smile. Bill and Sara discussed things a bit and made clear that they didn't want that decision to end the greater expedition... even though they are the expedition's principal members. After a few more talks, it was decided that Bill and Sara would leave Base Camp by helicopter in the morning, bound for home, while Linden and I, along with Kaji, Tchherring and Dawa, would continue to work toward the summit. Linden and I intend to lighten our packs and to tighten our itinerary some in order to fit in the "weather window" we believe will materialize in a few days. We won't carry nearly as much emergency gear, now that we aren't guiding, but we still want to be responsible Everest citizens... able to help ourselves and our teammates out of a jam and perhaps even to be of use to others in peril. But definitely as we begin this new venture, the packs will be lighter and the pace will be faster. Linden and I will go all the way to Camp 2 tomorrow, we'll rest a day and recheck the forecasts, and then we'll aim to hop directly up to Camp 4 and set out for the summit that same night. There is still the usual amount of mystery in it for us... we don't actually know what the weather will do (our forecasts are good, but the mountain doesn't much care about such things) we don't actually know what our bodies will do. Linden Mallory is a strong and experienced climber and guide, but he will be venturing nearly a vertical mile beyond familiar heights. I've been up top a few times and should enjoy all the benefits of muscle memory and brimming self-confidence, except... my 20 year span of venturing to 28,000 and 29,000 ft has been anything but smooth, easy and predictable. But I want to see that high up world again. I want Linden to see it as well. I would have loved for Bill and Sara to see the sunrise from up there near the top of the world and despite the pride I take in knowing they both came to mature and sensible decisions... I do feel a slight letdown in knowing that "guiding" this time around did not result in standing on top with my clients. On the other hand, my climbers are happy and healthy and excited about seeing their family and their home. They both climbed safely up and down dangerous slopes for weeks on end, reaching ridiculous heights. And they saw a number of spectacular sunrises, sunsets, moonrises and moonsets through gargantuan mountain passes. Sara may write in the coming days about her decision and perhaps it will become clear then as to just how completely we've failed (for now) in our bid to turn her into just another self-absorbed, egotistical, mountain-obsessed, risk-addicted climber. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

dear sweet girl…to me, making this “summit” of a decision is what goes on in life…the truth of how you feel will set you free…i think all those that surround you and support you have done so knowing this experience, summit or no summit is an amazing process to have…it teaches you to know yourself…and that, my dear is a beautiful, natural, amazing thing. You have filled the world with strength and beauty, honesty and love…and that is sa-weeet!

Posted by: nancy on 5/18/2011 at 9:41 am

I so sorry to hear Sara had to make the tough decision to come home slightly early. I was climbing this year aged 19 and came home after I became seriously ill, so I’ve been closely following Sara’s progress and really routing for her! I know it’ll prove to be the right choice, and inevitably you’ve both achieved your main aim- to get back home safe. It takes a stonger person to accept that going for the summit isn’t the right option than it takes to reach the summit! You were clearly a strong climber with a level head and should be so proud of what you achieved. All the best, Beckyx

Posted by: Becky Bellworthy on 5/18/2011 at 8:17 am


Mt. Everest Expedition:  The Summit Bid is Getting Close

The summit bid is getting close. This is how I know: 1. Dave, Linden and Tuck (aka Mark Tucker who is called everything but 'Mark') are constantly huddled around the latest weather report, which seem to come out every 2 to 3 hours. The weather forecast is murky (which is better than it being bad). What Dave, Linden and Tuck seem to know is that no big storm is on the horizon, but the jet stream seems to be on the move. The question is "when" the jet stream is going to move, and then how fast its going to move. We do not want any of our team high on the mountain when the jet stream is over us. We know its going to be cold up there, but what we want to work hard to avoid is high winds. Here is the understatement of the year: the level of difficulty in predicting the weather at 29,000 feet is quite high. 2. Lots of other climbing teams are comparing notes on when to start their bid. It seems that other teams have different forecasts and information, but the conclusions seem to be the same: even the people making the forecasts don't have a high degree of confidence in them, and that the forecasts are uncertain. 3. Our entire climbing team of 7 people seem to be fully rested and well (not sick). This means that they have been down long enough to have their full strength and are ready to start climbing when it is determined that its time to go. I keep bugging Sara to "eat more" and "drink more" to build up her strength but she 1) knows what to do, and 2) is tired of listening to me. Everyone on the team has lost their baby fat, some even a touch of their adult fat, on this trip, but we have to keep trying to eat as much as possible to keep our strength. 4. Our Sherpa team has done a phenomenal job of strategically positioning gear on the mountain. We have tents positioned at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (although the Camp 2 tents are the only ones 'up' - the rest are in bags - due to the ever present threats of high winds), and our oxygen bottles and gear are at Camps 3 and 4. We have other gear (food, safety equipment, etc.) at different camps throughout the mountain. It really has been a herculean task to get things positioned. 5. Today we are taking showers. We always take showers close to the day of departure. 6. Sara is trying to get a massive amount of history homework done. Sara always tries to get a lot of work done prior to a week long climb. It is like cramming before a test I guess. She is massively reading (and highlighting) a text book on the Byzantine Empire (Sara occasionally reads something to our group about the era at dinner, and we all pretend that we know what she is talking about). 7. Our entire climbing team is charging all their cell phones an Ipods/Itouches. We always make sure we are a fully charged team as we start off. The Sherpa's focus is on charging their cell phones, which work at the higher camps for some reason, (the non-Sherpa's cell phone coverage doesn't work above base camp). Westerners have to use a service called Ncell, but locals are allowed to use a different cell phone provider that has better coverage up high. Its one of the mysteries of Everest in 2011. 8. Sara, Dave and Linden have all picked out food to eat at Camp 4 (at the South Col). While the team only hopes to stay one night at Camp 4 (at 26,000 feet), they are bringing enough food for up to 3 days (just in case). This food consists of a lot of freeze dried dinners (Mountain House Lasagna), candy bars, cup-o-soups, cheese sticks, etc. The group hopes to climb to Camp 4 one day and then leave for the summit in the middle of that same night, but if a storm pops up (or even high winds), they may stay at Camp 4 for longer. 9. I have picked out a "get fired up" movie for Sara to watch tonight: The Fighter. The movie (starring Mark Walhberg) is based upon a true story, and has several messages, one of which is what incredible sacrifice and determination it takes to be a champion. 10. The Calendar. It is May 16th. I know we are getting close for a try at the summit because we are getting close to the Monsoon showing up. And when the monsoons start, the mountain is closed for the season. 11. All of Everest BC is abuzz with groups getting ready for their summit bids, monitoring their teams on the mountain, or just leaving. Several camps are already gone, having accomplished (or not accomplished) whatever they set out to do. 12. The physicians here are incredibly busy. The HRA (The Himalayan Rescue Association) doctors are a group of physicians whose costs are covered by the various climbing groups to treat clients, guides, porters and Sherpas, They do an incredible job. Many patients are treated face to face, but other times the HRA docs are called upon to help treat climbers who are high on the mountain. They are on call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and are currently working (as I write this) at an incredible pace under tremendous pressure. 13. We are almost out of Coca Colas. When we started this trip Sara and I ordered 24 twelve ounce Coca Colas (for about $40) to have at Base Camp. We have been enjoying them, but self rationing them, since we arrived at base camp on April 6th. We are down to one Coca Cola. I think we are going to split it. 14. Our camp is melting. We live on the Khumbu glacier and our camp is noticeably melting every day. Our tent sites, which were originally flat, are now not, but we are living with it because, hey, the glacier may melt them flat again. Pools of water form in our camp daily and then freeze at night. The base to our Stupa is rapidly melting. We may have to do some construction work in the days ahead. 15. Avalanches are now so common we don't pay much attention to them. When we originally got to Basecamp we would rush out of our tents to see an avalanche coming off one of the many surrounding mountains. Avalanches are now so common (due to the warmer weather) that we no longer rush to view them, or even pay much attention to them, unless they are in the Khumbu Ice fall. Needless to say, the ice fall is an extremely scary place. So, in summary, this is how I know that our summit bid is getting close: food picking, charging, showers, homework, doctors busy, dwindling Coca Colas, etc.. I am both nervous and excited for Sara. I know how hard she has trained and worked for an attempt at the summit, but I also know how much luck is involved in actually summitting. I know she is very determined and "wants it" very badly, but I also how easily things could change to prevent a summit bid. Three years ago Sara and I tried to summit Mt. Elbrus and bad weather stopped our entire group. Then last year Sara and I went back to Elbrus and had a perfect weather day and made it to the top in about 6 hours of easy walking. Mountain climbing is a fickle business, and it can be extremely rewarding, and also extremely disappointing. I know that Sara is strong enough to climb this mountain, but one never knows if things will work out. So, that's it from Base Camp for today. Bill M.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sara, Bill!  No matter what ends up happening, you two are top of the world from my perspective. The decisions you are making and have made are awesome.  Im so impressed.  Love, Anita

Posted by: Anita on 5/17/2011 at 9:18 am

Dave Hahn, do you know BILL?  Thanks for writing Bill, and thanks for the clinic mention.  Give our docs a hug for me?  HOpe Sara, Dave, Lindon and Sherps get up quickly and down safely.  xox

Posted by: Dr Lulu on 5/17/2011 at 7:52 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting and Watching the Weather Forecasts

Today marks our fifth full day back at Base Camp since coming down from our third rotation on the mountain. The days have managed to slip by surprisingly quickly, filled with big meals, visits from friends, time spent reading, playing cards, throwing horseshoes, and most of all - resting. Tuck organized the 2011 Everest Base Camp Horseshoes Tournament a few days ago and filled our small camp with dozens of people from various teams bent on vying for the coveted crown. Besides a few errant throws - we lost a cooking pot to a high flying shoe and somehow managed to tangle a horseshoe in the prayer flags strung overhead - it was a really enjoyable afternoon. Yesterday Dave, Sara, and I spent the morning exploring the lower reaches of the Khumbu Glacier surrounding Base Camp, making our way through the tongues of rock moraine and among the fins of vertical ice that jut up from the glacier. But the overarching focus of these days has been on resting, and it has been paying off. Dave, Sara, and I are all feeling the gains from our leisurely days down here. The solid nights of sleep have calmed any minor altitude coughs and strength is seeping back into the legs. Our Sherpa team descended a few days ago as well and the whole team is now down at Base Camp, enjoying the rest and preparing for the final push. Every morning over the past few days we pull up the latest forecast and discuss the options for our summit bid. This season's weather has been unsettled to say the least and that trend has continued into the summit season. Several teams have made summit attempts over the past few days and the occasional eruption of cheering and clanging pots and oxygen bottles can be heard coming from camps as they celebrate the radio call from their climbers standing on the summit. But the summit season so far has been far from smooth and dozens of climbers have faced real challenges up there, battling high winds and cold temperatures in their attempts. While the temperatures and the snowfall are factors, our big concern is the wind. The jet stream is still playing around this part of the Himalayas, occasionally drawing close to Everest and then receding again, and causing nothing but confusion for the forecast models. The 60+mph winds reported yesterday are a sure indication the jets proximity. And so we are sitting down here, reading over the forecast every morning, hoping that these small snippets of good weather that lay scattered over the upcoming days materialize into a substantial window for us to feel confident to head up on our summit bid. Thus begins the waiting game, a trial in its own right. To sit in Base Camp after so many weeks of hard work, feeling ready and prepared for the summit bid, but stalling over the unstable weather conditions, is a huge mental challenge. On occasion a helicopter lands in Base Camp, picking up climbers returning from the summit - both those who made it successfully and those who did not but battled the cold and wind nonetheless - and whisks them back to Kathmandu in dozens of minutes. It's easy to let the mind wander to all of the luxuries and comforts that await the passengers when they disembark, but not a very helpful exercise. Nevertheless, the focus around camp remains, the days of rest are paying off, and our excitement is building for the upcoming climb. A great number of unknowns lie ahead of us, but we are feeling ready. Tomorrow we will wake up, print out the forecast, sit down in the morning sun to look over what the forecast models predict for wind speeds, temperatures, and precipitation amounts. Hopefully that window we know is coming begins to materialize. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Linden, there is a crew of us that you took up Rainier last summer that has been following your blog.  We all wish we were with you now.  Glad to hear that you are having fun and resting for the summit.

Posted by: Smith Cooley on 5/16/2011 at 4:31 pm

Bill, that’s a cool picture of you getting ready to throw the horseshoe. Watch out for the prayer flags and cooking pots. Thanks, Linden, for the description of the waiting game and life in Base Camp. So glad it’s all paying off. We’re praying for a good weather window for the team and a safe journey. Much love.

Posted by: Mom on 5/15/2011 at 11:47 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sara McGahan on Base Camp and the Glaciers

Today is another gorgeous day here at Everest Base Camp. There isn't a cloud in the sky, and with a little breeze the usual heat of the day is masked. This morning, Dave, Linden, and I took a walk down the medial moraine - the strip of rock that runs down the middle of the Khumbu glacier, and arrived back to camp just in time for lunch. I hadn't been on the lower part of the Khumbu glacier since we started our rotations up the mountain, and although Dave pointed out to me at that time how the glacier would be different in about a month or so, I couldn't have imagined a more drastic change. The once frozen ice ponds are becoming lakes of glacier water, and rivers of melted ice are rushing down valley. Rocks are perched on ice pinnacles that haven't melted due to the shade the rock provides, and water runs down 10-15ft icicles that hang off the still frozen part of the glacier. Although I've climbed and hiked on multiple glaciers before, I've never lived on one for this long. Over the years I've heard so much about how quickly glaciers move and change, and have definitely seen slight changes while being on them, but have never seen with my own eyes how quickly they move and to what an extent they can change in just a months time. On a different note, down here in Base Camp teams are now hustling with preparations for summit bids. With the route now fixed up high people have been summiting everyday. Yesterday, Tshering and Uberaj both carried to the South Col to help prepare us for our summit bid. Tshering is now safely down at Base Camp and Uberaj stayed up higher on the mountain and is holding down the fort at Camp Two. Over the last few days I've been trying to rest as much as possible. I've made significant progress on my English and Science projects, but besides that and a few walks here and there, I've been sleeping, eating and drinking as much as I can. As Dave always tells me, "rest with a purpose," and I've been trying to get myself in as good shape as I can be to prepare myself forour own summit bid. Time is running short here at Base Camp. Virtually everyone will be gone from here in the next 3 weeks as we all try to fit our summit bids in before the monsoons hit in June. So, while we rest, it's weird to think that everyone here (about 350 people) will all move out shortly. Thanks for following along on our adventure! Sara
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SAYYY!! sry this is a late response to this but im soo glad i read this cause its nice to read and hear about the journey from your perspective!!! Your almost there keep up the good work! Couldnt be more proud we miss you back here CRAZYYYY AMOUNTS!!!! love & hugs, <3 kmy

Posted by: katherine on 5/16/2011 at 6:55 pm

Sara, great update especially describing how the glaciers move and change. What an adventure! Love it that you’re eating, sleeping and drinking as much as you can! I spent the last few days with Billy, Katie, and Morgan and we are all so rooting for you. Be safe - sending much love. P. S. We did go to YogurtLand.

Posted by: Grandma on 5/15/2011 at 11:38 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting and Eating at Base Camp

The weather at Everest Base Camp is cloudy but the temperatures are nice. We have heard that more climbers have successfully reached the top of Mt. Everest. Kaji and Dawa after going to the South Col yesterday have comeback to Base camp. Lam Babu has also returned to Base Camp from Camp 2. Tsering and Yubarj plan on carrying loads to the South Col tomorrow early morning early if the weather allows. Speaking of weather, the forecast for lighter winds has been adjusted to more moderate speeds, we have heard of a number of teams adjusting their summit schedule to a later date. Everyone is looking for that perfect weather window. Some teams are in position for summit attempts tonight and tomorrow night. Our team at Base Camp continues with the resting and eating routine. We are working hard to fatten up Dave, Linden, Sara and Bill. We had a few friends over today to throw some horseshoes. The focus now is keeping track of the forecasts and monitoring resting patterns. How much simpler could life get. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Guys…. my two favorite things resting and eating… but I do know you both can not wait for some your mom’s/wife’s home cooked meals ...  Stay strong and we are all thinking and praying for you!  love. Stacey

Posted by: Stacey on 5/13/2011 at 5:38 pm

Sara and Bill,

WOW, I absolutely love seeing these pictures.  Funny how it does make me think “Anything” I am doing here is so trivial compared to what you all are doing.  Stay Strong like you are… fatten up, (ha)and we will pray for low winds and good weather.  lots of love and prayers. Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Bremer on 5/13/2011 at 3:01 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Sherpa Team Setting up High Camp While the Team Rests

Now it gets interesting in Everest-ville. Chherring, Dawa Jamba and Kaji made a significant contribution to our team's potential success today. They got up around 2 AM, put on big packs at ABC and climbed all the way to the South Col, establishing what will be our High Camp at 26,000 feet. All three were safely back down the Lhotse Face and into ABC by noon. They'll hope to repeat that extremely big morning of work in the next few days... boosting enough tents, fuel, oxygen and miscellaneous heavy stuff up to the Col so that the door will be open for our summit bid. Just when that summit bid will take place is uncertain at this point. To be sure, when Linden, Sara and myself came down from ABC yesterday we were bucking the local trend. There were dozens of our friends, fellow guides and Sherpas pushing up the lower mountain with summit stars in their eyes already. This season is turning out to be different from those in recent memory in that the weather window is open early and people are taking advantage. This has long been a hope for those of us who habitually attempt Everest..."If only the weather could be good enough, early enough so that everybody wasn't going for the summit on the same four crowded days in late May" Climbers are getting to the top now... we heard that Apa Sherpa got his record 21st summit of the mountain today... British climber Kenton Cool is already back home after a head-spinning and nearly unheard of three-week round-trip to the summit (we are on our seventh or eighth week). In the next couple of days it should get quite busy at the top of the world as the bulk of the assembled expeditions look to get it all done while the jet-stream seems to be otherwise occupied. If it seems like I'm jealous then perhaps I am... but only mildly. A good shot at the top for others is not necessarily a good shot for us. Having just come down the mountain from our last round of acclimatization yesterday, I'm satisfied enough with our exertions and not yet restless and bored enough to be jealous of anyone else's. Although the three of us are each feeling strong and healthy now, we need a good chunk of rest and we cling to the belief that a viable weather window later in the month will be warmer and quieter than a viable weather window in the middle of the month... we want every single advantage. That is why we were trying to get up to sleep at Camp 3 a few days ago. Without question it would have been a big plus for our small team to have the experience and confidence that results from an admittedly dreadful night in a tent at 24,000 ft. But it was clear to each of us that Sara was getting worn out in the most-recent effort to reach that camp... who knows why? Perhaps the last rest period in Base Camp wasn't long enough... perhaps the windy-night at Camp 1 deprived her of the sleep she needed... perhaps the hot sun in the Western Cwm or the cold morning at ABC drained her reserves... perhaps, perhaps, perhaps... it doesn't really matter. It is a huge disadvantage that younger climbers suffer from -that they don't always know their bodies well enough to know just why and when they'll be tired instead of burly. But in any case, Sara was getting worked by the climb to Camp 3... she knew it, I knew it, and Linden knew it. We all were completely clear that despite this, she could make it up to the camp under her own power and spend the night if necessary. But the day's goal no longer seemed to be a smart one of it meant getting our most important climber exhausted on the doorstep to the "death zone". It became crystal clear that we needed to focus on a bigger picture than a counter-productive practice night at Camp 3... we needed to get down, to get in a good rest and to get focused on a summit bid that fit our needs. And so here we are... listening to other teams high up on the hill, cheering on our own Sherpa team of heroes, eating everything in sight, beginning to talk just a bit of things we might do in June, keeping Tuck occupied with horseshoes, card games and dice, enduring daily snow showers, making one another laugh and trying to stay focused on a big picture that involves going to 29,035 ft soon... and coming down safely. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Thanks for the posts, Dave.  I will be keeping track.  Hopefully that weather window that normally occurs later in May still happens and isn’t going on now.  Dave, did you ever meet my buddy Brett in Taos this year?  Climb safe. Looking forward to the next post. Hans

Posted by: Hans Reigle on 5/12/2011 at 2:58 pm

Thank you, Dave, for this insightful description of a very complex venture. Our gratitude to all those who make this happen and our thoughts and prayers are with everyone. Sara, to get so far up to now is an incredible accomplishment all by itself. Rest well. Bill, is putt-putt available at Base Camp? Thinking of you all with much love.

Posted by: Mom /Grandma on 5/12/2011 at 6:29 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Back at Base Camp After Final Rotation

Dave, Sara and Linden descended from Camp 2 in nice weather only to have the last half hour to Base Camp turn into a snow zone. Base Camp has remained in and out of snow showers all day. The climbers are doing well, enjoying the thick air of 17,575' and getting into the rest and eating routine. Bill could not be happier with Sara now back at Base Camp. Our Sherpa team continues to prepare the upper camps for the summit bid. Lam Babu carried a load from Base Camp to Camp 2 today. Tsering, Dawa and Kaji were up early at Camp 2 with plans to carry to the South Col but due to snow and poor visibility they remained at Camp 2. They will take a look at it again tomorrow and hopefully we'll have a nice report from the climbing team tomorrow. Many other teams are leaving Base Camp today beginning their push for the summit. We wish them well! Today marks the twenty-first anniversary of my summit of Mount Everest. (Mark reached Everest's summit on May 10th, 1990 as a member of Jim Whittaker's Peace Climb along with climbers from Russia and China via the North East Ridge. Happy anniversary Tuck!) Till next time, RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Happy 21st Tuck!

Posted by: Steve Evans on 5/11/2011 at 9:43 am

Bill and Sara:
Please know that the Egan family has been tracking your progress everyday and we are all overwhelmed with admiration and pride!It is hard to believe that while we sit here in Atlanta getting ready for exams, you are at the top of the world.  Sara, Chas says hi and he and all of the boys are cheering you on! We are thinking of you both everyday.  Good luck, be safe and God Bless. The Egans

Posted by: Mindy, Mike and Chas Egan on 5/11/2011 at 7:30 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimatizing on Last Rotation

Summer is here this morning, this afternoon that will be a different story. Tsering, Kaji, and Dawa left Camp 2 a half an hour before Dave, Sara and Linden for the climb up the Lhotse face to Camp 3. Lam Babu has now arrived at Base Camp after going the other direction from Camp 2. Dave reported good conditions ,weather and route wise on the face with incredible views of the surrounding mountains. Up above he could see some people going for the summit of Everest, yet another wave of climbers getting a chance at standing on top. It is great to see the groups getting a shot at the top over many days. instead of a lot of teams concentrated on the same window of time. I have started a push to the top a couple of times with eighty or so other climbers leaving high camp at about the same time. It's always a struggle thinking about what the near future could bring. More than often things work out but if they don't it can make for an even tougher day. Enough good experienced mountaineers can be a good thing to have around on the summit push, the right amount is a bit by chance.We will have a tight strong group that can handle most anything. Dave and Sara have decided that 23,000 ft, a good chunk of the way to Camp 3 is going to be enough for today. They have prioritized the next rotation as the objective, the idea of sleeping at Camp 3 tonight was a good plan, but the decision we make out in the field, are the ones that make the difference. They have just radioed in that they are off the face, heading to Camp 2. Linden is still climbing toward Camp 3 to get familiar with the route and location of Camp 3, another altitude records for Linden today. He will also come back to Camp 2 for the night. The Sherpa team worked all morning chopping and digging into the ice for tent platforms which will be used in the future. Instead of putting up the tents today they have then in a duffel bag secure to the site and will set them up on the summit push. No sense in subjecting them to wind and snow for now. So a good day for training and working hard up high. Back to Basecamp tomorrow, for the final resting period, with the summit push as the new focus. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 2.

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Sarah, I just wanted to send you a quick note to let you know how proud we all are here at Westminster. I have no doubt this is just the beginning of a list of amazing experiences for you in your life. We are thinking of you and wish you the best. Take care. Buen trabajo! Felicitaciones! Sra. Russell

Posted by: Maria Russell on 5/12/2011 at 6:03 am

Sara, we are so proud of you. We’re thinking of you all the time and enjoying the incredible pictures. Dave, the audio was great - thank you for posting it - and the blogs help those of us closer to sea level live this with you. How are the poker games going, Bill? Much love.

Posted by: Mom / Grandma on 5/10/2011 at 5:28 am

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