Entries By chase nelson
August 10, 2016
We are in our tents taking a little break before dinner. About two hours ago hail and rain caught us on the tail end of our training day at Ishinca Base Camp.
Before the afternoon storm we took advantage of our incredible venue to learn knots, anchors, rope ascension and rappelling. The huge glacial erratics just outside our camp provided the perfect place to rappel and ascend on overhanging terrain. Just as we were coiling up the ropes to head back to camp, pea sized hail began to pelt us. We retired to our mess tent where we were greeted with hot chocolate and popcorn.
We’re heading back there shortly for dinner, hoping it’s as good as last night’s feast. Hilario our cook ended dinner with one of the best chocolate mousses I’ve ever had- it’s going to be hard to top that!
RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Chase Nelson and team
August 9, 2016
Ahh how nice it is to finally be settled into a camp in the mountains. The lowlands have treated us well but this is what we came here for! This morning we boarded a bus and said goodbye to Huaraz and began our hike into the Ishinca Valley. Mule assistance kept our packs light and views of the Cordillera Blanca inspired our trek all the way to basecamp.
We built camp in a grassy meadow at 14,300 ft. flanked by our climbing objectives for the coming days. We’re enjoying a bit of relaxation and adjusting to our new altitude at camp, before the real training starts tomorrow!
August 8, 2016
Today was the most fun I’ve ever had acclimatizing. The team was feeling good and moving well as we made our way up to the crystal clear waters of Laguna Churup.
The lake sits at 14,600’ and is a perfect day hike to get some altitude in before we move to our base camp in the Ishinca Valley. When we arrived we couldn’t resist the glacial-fed emerald pool. Within a few minutes most of the team was fully submerged and paddling as hard as they could to get back on shore. The water temperature was… Refreshing.
Pictured here from left to right are Chase, John, Sarah and Steve.
This inspired group of adventurers is back in Huaraz, packed up and ready to head into base camp tomorrow. Can’t wait to get climbing!
RMI Guide Zeb Blais and team
What a beautiful color the water is! Nothing better than taking a cold plunge to get more oxygen. Sending blessings to all as you get started on this adventure. Looking forward to the updates as this story is created.
Posted by: Debbie Z. on 8/9/2016 at 7:18 am
Well done all! Looks like great conditions. Enjoy the cold water and the big adventure.
Posted by: Dan Foster on 8/9/2016 at 4:11 am
July 26, 2016
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Peter Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Peter reported light winds and clear skies. The team began their descent shortly after 7:00 a.m. PDT. We look forward to greeting the team in Ashford later this afternoon.
Way to go Troy! We are all very proud of you - another great accomplishment!
Posted by: Dean Fulton on 7/26/2016 at 12:49 pm
Woohoo! Congratulations to the group! Looks like the weather cooperated
Posted by: Becky on 7/26/2016 at 9:55 am
July 8, 2016
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Katrina Bloemsma was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Due to overnight rain the team was unable to leave Camp Muir for their summit attempt. The weather improved enough this morning for the team to climb up to Ingraham Flats at 11,200’ to climb a bit and experience the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier. The team left Camp Muir at 10:45 a.m. to make their descent back to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford early this afternoon.
July 5, 2016
The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Sid Pattison reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Sid reported cold, clear and breezy skies on the summit. The team began their descent at 7:30 a.m. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later this afternoon.
Congratulations Marina and team! What an accomplishment!
Love, MOM andDAD
Posted by: marcia gangemi on 7/5/2016 at 7:43 pm
June 13, 2016
The Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Chase Nelson were able to fly off the Pika Glacier yesterday evening during a break in the weather. Despite the weather, the team had several great days of climbing including successful climbs of Lost Marsupial and the Middle Troll.
Just got back out of the Alaska Range after a stellar trip to the Pika Glacier! One of the best alpine rock climbing venues I've ever had the pleasure of visiting. Here Greg and Will follow the splitter hand crack that leads right to the top, with the airstrip and camp visible 1,300 feet below. @rmiexpeditions @elias.the.spaniard #alpineclimbing #climbing #alaska #ak #climbmemories #rmiexpeditions
June 11, 2016
June 11, 2016 - 10:29 am PT
WOW!!! What a day we had yesterday. Indescribable fun and challenge on “The Middle Troll”, the main of the rock spires towering above the Pika. The weather held, just as it did for “The Throne” two days prior, we were able to sneak a super classic climb in.Splitter crack climbing 1200 feet straight above camp, while wearing only a base layer and seeing the ski-equipped planes land on the glacier beneath us, are only some of the surreal experiences the team had. Everyone faced an individual technical crux at some point on the route (the Middle Troll’s South Face), but everyone was up for the task and the reward of the most radical view from the summit was attained.
Today we’re waking up, yet again, to another snow storm that is presumably going to limit our activity. We’ll make the most of it. Hoping to fly out tomorrow as scheduled, our next post will be greeting you all from Talkeetna.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.
June 10, 2016
June 10, 2016 - 12:12 am PT
And back to the tents… Rain kept us at camp today, with the exception of a few hours in the afternoon. We spent that time learning and reviewing more rope skills, and talking about staying motivated for a climb tomorrow. Our hopes are on the South face of the Middle Troll, the main formation that reigns over the Pika glacier.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
June 9, 2016
And… we climbed the “Lost Marsupial”, on The Throne. Stellar route, stellar scenery and stellar crowd. It is hard to describe what it is to be atop one of these formations, surrounded by the longest glaciers in North America, the tallest peaks in the Alaska Range, and the best views in the world. Nobody around for miles, and a sense of insignificance directly proportional to the size of our accomplishment. Our two rope teams climbed and descended synchronized, like a well oiled machine, and pitch after pitch, rock, ropes, snow and gear were one with our climbers. Magic enough? More tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team