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Mountaineering Training | Hydration Stategies

Climbers heading to Rainier often ask the question, “water bottles or hydration system?” If you look around your local trail, chances are that most runners, hikers, and general recreationists are using a hydration system. Are these systems best suited to mountaineering, however?

In the past, many guides simply asked their climbers not to use hydration systems, but to carry water bottles instead. The belief was that the drawbacks of hydration systems outweighed the benefits. As hydration systems have improved to be less prone to leaking or punctures, this stance has shifted. There still are drawbacks to hydration systems, but given the right conditions, precautions, and expectations, they can be used effectively in mountaineering for a climb such as Rainier.

The main concerns we see with hydration systems are:

  • The hoses freeze: During midsummer climbs with high freezing levels, this doesn’t tend to be as much of a problem. On cooler climbs, however, ice buildup in the hose can quickly block any water from getting through. The neoprene hose insulators are not particularly effective, and it doesn’t take much ice buildup to completely block the flow. Blowing the water back through the hose after every drink can help, but still isn’t 100% effective. The best practice is to bring an empty, water bottle (even if only ½ liter capacity) that you can pour the hydration bladder into should it freeze so that you still have access to water.
  •  
  • Rationing water: Climbers can only carry so much water for a climb before the weight becomes cumbersome. Typically we recommend 2-3 liters of water for a Rainier summit day. This is plenty, but requires climbers to ration it; for example, 2 liters allows a climber 1/3 of a liter of water at each break. If climbers are sipping more consistently from a hydration system, often they lose track of that rationing, and find themselves partway into a climb, with no water left. Diligent attention is the only way to solve this, and this is difficult when you can’t actually see how much water you have left.
  •  
  • Distractions: Trying to turn a hydration hose on and off and drink from it on the fly distracts from the climbing, the terrain, and the overall situation. When climbers are roped up and climbing, each member of the team is relying on all of the others to remain vigilant to catch a fall and to not cause a fall. A hydration hose is a distraction from this, and the solution is to either keep the hose tucked away inside the pack (where it is inaccessible) in climbing terrain, or for climbers to carefully assess the hazards of the terrain they are in at that moment, and to choose benign stretches to get their hydration.

 

Hard, plastic water bottles have been the standard in mountaineering for decades and still provide the simplest method of carrying water. They generally do not freeze, it’s easy to see how much you are drinking, and they are away in the pack while climbing. That being said, since they are tucked away in the pack, they are inaccessible and do not allow a climber the opportunity to get a quick sip of water on a long stretch. Hydration systems may have a place in your mountaineering kit, but practice with them, have a plan and know how to minimize the drawbacks. If in doubt, water bottles will still work fine!

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Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Please tell me what type of bottle for mountaineers is used what you should think about a water bottle which have everything you need what type of water bottle is good what thing you think will there in water bottle. I am designing a water bottle

Posted by: Tanisha on 5/30/2023 at 9:00 am

I use a bladder in winter here in the north east and have done so for years. Just have to be mindful to mitigate freezing.

I spend up to multiple weeks solo on snowshoes and it gets pretty cold out here.

We had a week straight where temps hovered in the mid -20s °F last season.

I was on trail and had no problems.

My hydrations sleeve is lined with reflection film(did that myself) and I fill the bladder with warm water on cold slogs.

This is not the pack sleeve that is lined but the separate sleeve that came with my Camelbak.

As long as you blow the line out it works fine.

My sleeve that runs on the feed line is modified as well.

A bit is also dependent upon how the bite valve is set up.

Also, the being able to see what is in your nalgene is out of the proverbial window to a large degree if you utilize and insulated sleeve on your 1L(ie OR/Nalgene.)

Granted you can look down into the bottle but its still a crap shoot unless you take the bottle out of the sleeve and look or try to line the water lever with your finger on the outside of the bottle.

I can see the whole distraction thing while on the move but if your stagnant in a congo line you cant take a sip out of a bottle without dropping your pack to get to the bottle being you dont know how long you will be static.

With a hydration system this is a non factor.

There are pros and cons to both approaches as with anything.

Posted by: Loco Raindrops on 8/13/2019 at 9:58 am


Orizaba Express: Hailes & Team Will Train Today, Climb Tonight

Update: January 30th at 1:30 pm PT

Hello friends and family,

We spent a few hours today climbing higher on Orizaba in partial sunshine and protected from the wind by the mountain. During the trip we refreshed our ice axe and crampon skills and may have done a little scheming about new business ideas. We are sticking to the plan of an early dinner and bed and really early rise to attempt the summit. No matter what the weather does we will be safe and have fun.

January 30th at 6:30 am PT

We made the correct decision to abandon the tents and sleep in the hut at Piedra Grande. The wind gusts gradually got stronger till early morning. Another team did attempt the summit but turned around before the summit because of the wind.

The wind is still strong but we are going to get out and do a little training/acclimation hike and enjoy the day. We'll keep looking up and see what the weather gives us for tonight.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

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Mountaineering Training | The 4x4 Interval Workout

There are almost unlimited possibilities for interval workouts that you can come up with; varying times, distances, intensities, terrain, and repetitions creates a huge breadth of workouts that can all accomplish different goals. As you build your fitness base, threshold intervals are a great place to be putting some focus. They help to build your anaerobic threshold, increasing the intensity, time, and distance that you can go before your muscles start to fill with lactic acid. A great example of a useful threshold interval workout is the 4x4: four intervals that are each four minutes long. To complete the 4x4 Interval Workout: • Look for some gently rolling terrain, either on a trail or on a road, (although any terrain can work, including even a treadmill). Pick a starting point for your first interval, and run a threshold pace for 4 minutes from there. For pace, choose a speed that you think you’ll be able to hold - but just barely - for all four intervals. The idea is that each of the four intervals should be relatively similar in terms of pace, rather than the first being much faster than the last as you tire. • After the first four-minute interval, make note of where the finish line was, and recover for 2 minutes. Recovery isn’t lying down on the ground or standing still, but instead a very slow jog or walk. • At the end of 2 minutes, return to the previous finish line, and use that as your start line, completing another four-minute interval in the opposite direction, back towards where you came from. If you balance your pace well, then you should finish at the start line of your first interval! • Take another 2-minute slow recovery period. • Complete another 4-minute interval in the original direction. See if you can make it to where you ended the first time, if not further. • Recover for 2 minutes. • Complete your last interval, heading back again and seeing if you can best your previous mark. Nice work! 22 minutes, and you’ve completed your interval workout! It may take a couple of sessions for you to figure out the pacing for these, so that the last two are at least as strong as the first two. Don’t purposefully hold back at the beginning, just set a moderately quick pace, and then see if you can maintain it throughout. If you can, great job, and try bumping the pace up a notch next time. If you do this workout in the same place, you’ll start to get a feel for your improvement as you watch your finish lines get further and further down the trail. With all interval training, a proper warm-up and cool-down is very important. Make sure that you warm up with at least 15 to 20 minutes of jogging before you start the session, and finish with a good 15 to 20 minute cool-down period afterwards. This will help your body process the lactic acid that was created during the workout so that you aren’t as sore afterwards helps to prevent injury. All told, this workout takes about an hour. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
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So, if running isn’t your thing….is biking an acceptable substitute?

Posted by: Chris on 1/16/2019 at 4:15 pm


Orizaba Express: Hailes & Team Turn Around at 17,000’ Due to Conditions

 We pushed as hard as we could today but the weather just didn't let us summit Orizaba. We all climbed strong up to about 17,000ft when the combination of strong winds, wind loaded slopes, and reduced visibility made the decision to turn around and head downhill quite clear. It is always disappointing to not make the summit, but the while team is in great spirits back at the Casa pierde hut. Now we load onto the 4x4 for our final push to Mexico City and a nice hot shower and dinner. See you all very soon.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes


RMI Guide Walter Hailes checks in from Orizaba Summit attempt.

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Damn those high winds and white out conditions!!  Obviously the right call to make!  Have fun in Mexico City.  Looking forward to seeing pics and hearing stories.  Safe travels!

Posted by: Chip on 2/1/2020 at 12:24 pm

You’re all unstoppable!!! Warm greetings from Florida and Boston!

Posted by: Team Alden on 1/31/2020 at 8:06 am


Mountaineering Training | The Home Stretch

The Home Stretch is exactly what it sounds like: the last bit of your workout, the brief but essential stretching routine that will keep your muscles limber and strong. The routine starts at your toes and stretches to the top of your head and as far as your fingertips can reach. UPPER CALF STRETCH Starting position: Begin this stretch in the Downward Dog yoga posture: hands and feet flat on the ground, torso arched with rear up in the air, legs straight. If the Downward Dog position is uncomfortable, perform this stretch by leaning forward against a wall or another source of support, such as a tree or building, with arms straight and hands flat against the surface with legs straight and heels on the ground. Movement: Place your left ankle above and behind the right ankle, just off the ground, so that you can feel an isolated stretch in your right calf. Keep your knee straight so as to isolate the gastrocnemius —one of two major muscles that comprise the calf. Hold this stretch for 20 seconds. Switch sides. LOWER CALVES AND ANKLES Starting position: Same as the Upper Calf Stretch — Downward Dog or the variation leaning against a wall. Movement: Move your left ankle above and behind your right ankle as in the Upper Calf Stretch, with one difference: bend your right knee to isolate the soleus muscle in the lower part of your calf. Hold the stretch for 20 seconds. Switch sides. HAMSTRINGS Starting position: Lie on your back with your legs extended straight out in front of you. Rest your head on the ground. Movement: Raise your right leg, with a slightly bent knee if needed. Grasp the back of your upper leg (hamstrings) with both of your hands and gently pull toward the center of your body until you feel a stretch in the hamstring. Hold for 20 seconds. Switch sides. QUADRICEPS Starting position: Lie flat on your stomach, chin on the ground and arms at your sides. Movement: Raise your right ankle by bending your right knee. Grasp it behind your back with your right hand and then gently pull toward the center of your body until you feel a gentle stretch in the quadriceps muscles (the front of the thigh). Hold for 20 seconds. Switch sides. Variation: If lying down on your stomach is uncomfortable, do this stretch standing up. Hold on to a tree or other support with your free hand, if necessary, as you grasp your ankle and gently pull it toward your body. HIP FLEXORS Starting position: Sit in a kneeling position with your left leg forward. Your right knee and left foot will be on the ground, with both knees bent at 90-degree angles. Movement: Imagine that your pelvis is a bowl of water on a table. Now, think of gently tipping the water out of the bowl from the back as you gently press the bottom part of your pelvis forward and the top part of your pelvis slightly back so that you feel a stretch in the muscles that connect the front of your hip to your right leg. That subtle tipping will activate the hip flexor in the front of your right leg. Hold for 20 seconds. Switch sides. ILIOTIBIAL (IT) BANDS Starting position: Stand upright near a tree, wall, or other surface for balance. Cross your right leg over your left leg. Movement: Extend your left arm to the surface for balance. Bend your body to the left with your right arm extended overhead, as though you’re doing a variation on the Side Bender from the Daily Dozen. Your goal is to feel a deep stretch in your right hip extending down to the outer part of your right leg. Variation: Try the Pigeon Stretch if you’re particularly flexible. Sit on the ground and bend your left leg so that the heel is near the right hip. Extend the right leg straight behind you. THIGH ADDUCTORS Starting position: Sit upright with legs bent and heels placed together in front of you. Movement: Gently press your knees toward the ground to feel a stretch in the adductors (inner thighs). Hold for 20 seconds. BACK STRETCH Starting position: Lie down on your back with knees bent and feet on the ground. Movement: Gently move your knees to the left, placing them on the ground, making sure to also keep your shoulders on the ground. You should feel a stretch in your middle and lower back. Extend your arms to either side, and move your head so that you are looking to the right (away from your bent knees). Hold for 20 seconds. Switch sides. STOMACH AND CHEST STRETCH Starting position: Lie on your stomach, palms placed on the ground on either side of your chest, directly below your shoulders. Movement: Look up toward the sky, gently curving your back while supporting your weight, hands on the ground. This is popularly known as the Cobra pose in yoga. Hold for 20 seconds. TRICEPS STRETCH Starting position: Stand upright or sit on your knees with your upper body strong and straight. Lift your left arm above your head and bend the left elbow to stretch the left triceps muscles. Movement: Place your right hand on your left elbow to support the stretch, gently pressing the elbow back until you feel the muscle stretching. Hold for 20 seconds. Switch sides. SHOULDER STRETCH Starting position: Stand near a tree or another support. Place your left hand on the support, with your left arm fully extended. Movement: Without moving your feet, rotate your body to the right until you feel a stretch in your left shoulder and the left side of your chest. Hold for 20 seconds. Switch sides. FINAL BREATHING To finish the Home Stretch, take five full breaths. First, exhale and deeply Squat to the ground, arms downward. Inhale by pushing up on your heels, extending your legs, and reaching your arms to the sky. Take these breaths very slowly and deliberately — you’re bringing relaxation into all areas of your body at the end of your workout, setting the tone for the next stage peacefully and with a great workout behind you. - John Colver John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi I found this very interesting and informative!  I have found muscles I never knew I had. Glad you have information like this for us beginners otherwise I would still be clueless when I do the climb. Cant wait to get started. Thank you! :)

Posted by: Stacie Wheeler on 8/19/2013 at 12:41 am


Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Teams Reach Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir teams led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Dustin Wittmier, Hannah Smith and Kiira Antenucci reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today under clear skies and moderate winds.  The teams were descending from the crater rim around 7:30 am PT.

The group gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Monday for a full day orientation to prepare for their program.  On Tuesday morning the group left for Paradise where they donned packs and made the ascent to Camp Muir.  The teams spent the next few days training near Camp Muir, honing their mountaineering skills and preparing to make their summit today.  Today is their final day on the mountain and once they return to Camp Muir, they will repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's teams on capping off a great week of training by standing on the summit of Mt. Rainier!

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Orizaba Express: Hailes and Team Enjoy Time at La Malinche

Good morning. We had a great day yesterday driving to La Malinche. We left Mexico City and grabbed some lunch and snacks food for our climb today. Once we arrive at the resort we settled into the cabana and Brett, Jeff and John went for a hike before dinner. Alden, Merrick and I spent time at the cabana prepping for our climb today. Dinner was delicious with queso and guacamole for all.

This morning we grabbed breakfast and hit the trail for our first acclimation hike. The forecast called for sunny and warm. We had a near perfect day today on our acclimation hike. Sunny skies, light breeze, and a great team. We moved well uphill even in the loose rock and scree of the mountain and got to relax on to for well over an hour, breathing the thin air as getting ready for the next challenge. We are all looking forward to another great dinner and a warm fire in our cabana tonight.

 

RMI Guide Walt Hailes

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Orizaba Express: Hailes & Team arrive at a Windy Piedra Grande

Our day started calm and orderly, but did not finish that way. We had another great meal at La Malinche before we started driving to Tlachachula. Then we loaded the van and hit the road. After sorting gear and eating lunch in town we loaded up the 4x4 and drove the bumpy road 2 hours to camp. Camp was a little windy when as we set up our tents. We choose to sleep in tents instead of the hut so that we could have a nice quiet night. However, just as we finished the last tent big wind gusts started hitting us. When we almost lost one tent 3 times we decided to change plans, drop the tents and retreat to the hut. The team made quick work of relocating and we settled into the hut nicely. We'll sleep sound tonight and see what the wind is like in the morning.

RMI Guide Walt Hailes & Team

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Frank and Team Call from Summit of Orizaba

Good morning. This is RMI Guide Eric Frank from the summit of Pico de Orizaba. We are enjoying the views looking out over the valley in Mexico. A little cloud cover is creeping Into The Valleys, but we are about 1,000 feet above it up here. It’s been a really nice morning of climbing, a little cold and a little windy, but we were able to get it done nevertheless. We are going to hang out for a few more minutes then get packed up and have a safe descent. Then we will go down and celebrate what's been a great week of climbing.

RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the summit of Pico de Orizaba.

On The Map

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Wittmier & Team Summit Orizaba

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Mexico Volcanoes team reached the summit of Pico de Orizaba, 18,491', early this morning.  The team will return to Tlachichuca to spend the night and celebrate their great week of climbing.

Congratulations to the team!

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